Sweet Nothings Crochet: VINNIE'S SHELLED BEANIE

Vinnie's Shelled Beanie - a free crochet pattern in three sizes from Sweet Nothings Crochet

I have been given a small bag of yarn and requested to make beanies & / or scarves for the homeless. I'm hoping that there's going to be more yarn - which also means there will be more patterns discovered and written.

This pattern has 3 sizes for the beanie : 6m - 1yr (17 - 19" circumference) ;

3 yrs - 10 yrs (19 - 20") ; Adult (20 - 22").

Follow the color coded instructions for the size you want.

Thanks for joining me. Come along, let’s create something beautiful

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.

Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog

Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.

All my blogs can be printed. Find the printer friendly (green) link on the right side of this blog. You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.

Remember that you only print if absolutely essential. Save paper – Save Our Earth.

Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.

Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.

To purchase this or similar yarn online, click the highlighted links below to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well.

This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 60 gms of (Yatsal) 8-ply Super Value acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers

For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Vardhaman acrylic yarn or Laura knitting cotton .

You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Oswal acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

but I think you could also use Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn

You may just have to tweak the gauge a bit.

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate.

If you are working the optional finish, there are calculations and that makes this intermediate - else this is an easy pattern

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing : here. or here

Abbreviations used :

sc : single crochet hdc : Half Double crochet

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

hk : hook lp (s) : loop(s)

yo : yarn over sl-st : slip stitch

Instructions using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rounds with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for video tutorials of all the stitches used in today’s pattern. For your convenience, I've given the links just before we are to use the stitch as well.

Please note that I take a lot of trouble to give loads of tips through my pattern sheet, so please read through the full sheet before you pick up your hook n yarn.

In my patterns, I make you think .. a little bit.. but trust me, it's always fun..and my instructions are detailed and well explained.

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Round 1 : Start with a magic circle and work 12 dc in it ;

join to the 1st st with a sl-st (12 dc)

Round 2 : Increase round

2 dc in the 1st dc

and in each dc all around.

Join with a sl-st to the1st st. (24 dc)

Round 3 : Increase round

2 dc in the 1st dc, dc in the next dc ;

(2 dc in the the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to. the1st st (36 dc)

Round 4 : Increase round

2 dc in the 1st dc, dc in the next 2 dc ;

(2 dc in the the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to. the1st st (48 dc)

Diameter of the circle is about 4.75"

If making this for a head circumference of 17 - 19", stop increases now and go to Round 7

Round 5 : Increase round

2 dc in the 1st dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;

(2 dc in the the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to. the1st st (60 dc)

Diameter of the circle is now 5.5"

If making this for a head circumference of 19 - 20", stop increases now and go to Round 7

Round 6 : Increase round

2 dc in the 1st dc, dc in the next 4 dc ;

(2 dc in the the next dc ; dc in the next 4 dc) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to. the1st st (72 dc)

Diameter of the circle is now 6.5"

This will work for a head circumference of 22 - 24"

Please scroll down to the bottom of this blog for a great circumference calculator

or check with the head size chart given at the top of this blog.

Remember that yarn stretches - so if it's a bit snug, and your yarn has a stretch, you're good to go.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Round 7 : Eyelet round

sc in the 1st dc ;

(ch 1, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ;

rep (to) all around.

ch 1 & join with a sl-st to the1st st (24 / 30 / 36 ch-1 sps)

As we could be working different sizes, I'm going to start renumbering rounds as Pattern rounds.

Now we work our shelled pattern only in the ch-sps

Pattern Round 1 : Shell round

3 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;

*sk next ch-sp, (3 dc in the next ch-1 sp)* ;

rep *to* all around.

join with a sl-st to the1st st (12 / 15 / 18 shells)

Before you start Round 9, decide if you want to do the longer flap for the front.

If you do, you need to work a longer flap (i.e Rounds 15 - 17). I'd also suggest you then work less shelled rounds (i.e Rounds 9 - 14)

As we need to keep the length standard, you will need to tweak your length.

So reduce shelled rounds by 1 or 2, and increase flap rounds by 1 or 2.

Also for the optional flap, we work in post stitches.

This means that you will work only one round of all dc after the shelled row and then work the post stitches for the flap rounds.

Right then, let's continue

Pattern Rounds 2 - 6 :

sk 1st dc, 3 dc all in the next dc ;

(sk next 2 dc , 3 dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to the1st st (12 shells)

Go straight to last round to finish

Pattern Rounds 2 - 7 :

sk 1st dc, 3 dc all in the next dc ;

(sk next 2 dc , 3 dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to the1st st (15 shells)

Go straight to last round to finish

Pattern Rounds 2 - 9 :

sk 1st dc, 3 dc all in the next dc ;

(sk next 2 dc , 3 dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) all around.

Join with a sl-st to the1st st (18 shells)

Go straight to last round to finish

You can decide to work 1 - 3 rounds

Work 1 Round ; 2 Rounds or 3 Rounds per size

Last 3 Rounds :

dc in the 1st dc and in each dc all around.

Join with a sl-st to the1st st (48 / 60 / 72 dc)

In case you want to work a flap-like finish, then you could always work more rounds of just hdc and the wearer can turn up the extra bit. Remember though that the underside of the last few rounds needs to be extra neat.

Else you could opt to work the optional finish. given below with post stitches.

If you so decide, then work Round 16, and go straight to the optional finish rounds.

Please note though that for the optional finish we are working in rounds for added neatness..so before you start please check instructions for optional finish.

In case you are not doing the optional finish, fasten off and weave in ends.

I have not worked the optional finish for this project. The instructions below are what I did for an earlier project at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2020/04/birch-creative-beanie.html

Optional finish with a flap :

In case you decide to work in the flap, you will first work till you are at the length you need and then work the flap bit. The flap will just fold over so I’ve worked a different st. We will work in post stitches for the flap.

First work one round of hdc all around.

Here’s a neat video tutorial for the brim. In case the video does not come on, go here

Front post half double crochet : fphdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fphdc at https://youtu.be/R_dVr9FnBkk

Back post half double crochet : bphdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bphdc at https://youtu.be/9jJHgDX2MsE

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pattern for a beanie, photo of the Birch Creative Beanie,

As you’ve managed so well without joining, you could continue all the way to the end without joining and have a seamless finish.

However, you can get a beautiful project even if you decide to join at the last st at the end of each round.

Next round : Work a hdc in the 1^st hdc and in each hdc all around ;

Do not join at the last st ;

Move marker.

We will now work post stitches for the flap.

Flap round 1 : Work a fphdc around the 1^st hdc ;

(bphdc around the next hdc ; fphdc around the next hdc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

Do not join at the last st.

Flap round 2 : Work a fphdc around the 1^st fphdc ;

(bphdc around the next bphdc ; fphdc around the next fphdc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

Do not join at the last st.

You do not need the marker anymore.

You will just work a fphdc around each fphdc and a bphdc around the next bpdc – so you don’t even need to look at the pattern as this is all you do.

Continue rep Flap Round 2 till you get to the length you wish for your fold down flap.

In your last round, for the last 3 sts (just to get the stitch length right), work a post st using sc in the second last 2 sts and then work a sl-st in the last st. You can work a sl-st for about 2 – 3 sts to get it to a neat slide too.

Headwear Circumference calculations

1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.

2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).

3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.

So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.

There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).

This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.

It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).

So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.

Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.

So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Block as per yarn requirement, if needed.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns

Remember to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook. I’d love to feature your photos on my FB page. Cheers.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/

OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/

Join me on YouTube at http://youtube.com/shyamanivas

And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas

Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/

Find me on Ravelry at ravelry.com/projects/shyamanivas/

Have a great day and see you soon.

Here are some of my other creations.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/coffee-bean-beanie.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2021/06/vikarna-beanie.html