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Friday, 27 December 2019
CHEMO CAP 4
CHEMO
CAP 4
This
set of caps has been made for yet another special donation. I made a few caps
in time for Christmas, and used a few different patterns for them.
These
caps are headed to Tata Memorial Centre paediatric cancer ward in Mumbai.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used some (Indian) Laura knitting cotton with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
Single Crochet : Sc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Half Double Crochet : Hdc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Front post single crochet : fpsc :Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch on the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fpsc at https://youtu.be/OQa8YLpkdXs
Back post single crochet : bpsc :Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bpsc at https://youtu.be/L1K_MMLl-D4
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
sc
: single crochet dc : Double crochet
ch
: chain ch-sp
: chain space
sp
: space rep
: Repeat
hk
: hook lp (s) :
loop(s)
yo
: yarn over sl-st : slip
stitch
hdc
: Half double crochet
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Valuable calculations :
1.Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2.Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3.Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.
So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the pattern sheet.
I
have made three sets of caps before this and with each set I’m just tweaking it
a tad. See these at
My
first chemo cap was inspired by Mary Chemo cap and in this fourth set, I’ve
tweaked this cap even further. I’ve worked
my own pattern for the cap, and the used Mary’s chemo cap pattern for the front
part of the hair –and tweaked the pattern for the hair all around. I felt this made it more of a unisex
cap. What do you think?
At the top of this blog
are charts for regular head sizes as well as valuable calculations .. and here's one more.
So you need to measure
circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer
circumference of your work.
There is another trick
for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the
edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap
that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing
your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head
measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
Remember when
calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat
portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing)
of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just
the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the
pattern sheet.
Oh as we’re working in
rounds, you may like to see this video as well.
How to seamlessly crochet in
rounds : When working with head wear, this is a
really neat way to seamlessly end each round.
In case this video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/ISBZK7Du7yE
Start Round 1 :
with a magic circle and work 11 dc in
it.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (11 sts)
Round 2 :
2 dc in the 1st dc and each dc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (22 sts)
Round 3 :
dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
(dc in the next dc ; 2
dc in the next dc ) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (33 sts)
Round 4 :
dc in the 1st 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
(dc in the next 2 dc ; 2
hdc in the next dc ) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (44 sts)
Round 5 :
dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
(dc in the next 3 dc ; 2
hdc in the next dc ) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (55 sts)
Stop and check the
diameter of your circle. Here’s where
you work that pi calculation given above.
If the sizing works,
stop increases and continue with the 55 sts to work on the length.
Round 6 :
dc in the 1st st and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (55 sts)
Round 7 :
hdc in the 1st st and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (55 sts)
Rounds 8 - 9 :
Rep Rounds 6 & 7.
Round 10 :
Rep Round 6.
Round 11 :
sc in the 1st st and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (55 sts)
Round 12 :
(Using contrast colour) :
sc in the 1st
st and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (55 sts)
Round 13 :
(Using main colour) :
sc in the 1st
st and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (55 sts)
Rounds 14 - 15 :
Rep Rounds 6 & 7.
Round 16 :
Rep Round 6.
Fasten off and weave in
ends.
Check the length for your hat and work according to your requirement. In case you want it longer, Rep Rounds 6
& 7 once more.
Pattern
tweak :
Just
for fun, work Rounds 11 and 13 in Contrast Colour and work Round 12 in
the main color and see how different it looks!
How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
Tweak for hair :
Now
for Mary’s chemo cap, she has worked this lovely fringe/bang with a set of ch-8
sts that go back and forth along the front of the cap.
I’ve
done the same thing here.
I also workd a small variation for the fringe.
So first I worked the ch-8 sps as given on Mary's chemo cap.
I then re-attached my yarn and worked the same pattern (of ch-8 sps) but on the other side of the head.
For
the hair all around the cap though, rather than the ‘wind-blown’ tendrils, I’ve
worked stitches of varying length.
So
first make the front fringe (as per Mary’s crochet cap pattern) and then place
markers for the sides and finally for the back.
Depending
on which portion I was working on, I just adjusted the chain length.
For
the sides, I worked a few e-hdc and e-dc sts.
For
the back I worked trc and dtrc stitches.
So
say you divide it into 10 sts per section (= 10 for two sides and 20 for back
approx), start with 1 sc, then work
about 5 e-hdc and 5 e-dc , then about 7 trc, and 6 dtrc , and 7 trc for the
back and finally 5 e-dc and 5 e-hdc to complete the other side to get a good
shape gradation of hair. For the remainder stitches work hdc , sc and sl-st.
This
is just a rough number – as long as you get hair in different lengths, it
works.
Be creative and have fun.
Extended half double crochet (e-hdc) : Here is an
easy video tutorial
Double Triple Crochet : dtrc :wrap yarn three times around hook,
insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three
times. One trc made.
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 6 sc in it.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 :
sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch
2 + dc + ch 2 + sl-st) all in the same 1st sc ;
*sc
in the next sc ;
rep
(to) all in the next sc* ;
rep*to*
all round.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
This
completes one round of petals.
If
you want to work a second round, we need to work under the first round of
petals. Once again, this requires Intermediate to advanced skills.
In
this round we will just work a round of chains but from under Round 2, using
the stitches of Round 2, to make a base for the second floral of petals.
Round 3 :
sc around the 1st st ;
(ch
3, sk next 3 sts and work a sc from around the back into the next sc) ;
rep
(to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 :
sl-st in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
(sc
+ ch 2 + 2 dc + ch 2 + sc) all in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
rep
(to) in each ch-3 sp all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten
off and leave a long tail for attachment.
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