STAINED
GLASS WRAP
Can
you believe that using the right mix of colours and a simple crochet Granny
square pattern you can achieve this stained glass effect? Well then, come on
along and let’s work on this together.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used some of our super
soft (Indian) Vardhman Polar deluxe acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook. For quantity estimation, please read pattern notes.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Difficulty level : Intermediate
Skill level.
Stitches used :
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) hk : Hook
sp : Space yo : Yarn Over
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) sk : skip
sc : Single crochet
hdc : Half double crochet
dc : Double crochet
Pattern notes : Using US Terminology
Please
note that I start all my rows with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.
Please
also check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials of all stitches used
in today’s project. For your convenience, video tutorials are also given just before the stitch is used on the row.
There
are two parts to this project.
The
first part is making the granny squares and attaching them to form the body of
the wrap.
The
second part is the light border.
Part 1 :
The
beauty of this creation lies in choosing the right color combination of three
shades of blue, pink and yellow.
We need
black (or some other solid color that has not been used for the squares) for the last round and for joining and edging the wrap.
You can make as many tiny granny squares as you wish. Quantities
depend on how large or long you want your wrap, as well as the looseness / or
tightness of your work.
So
how do you calculate this?
Well,
you need to make one swatch granny square in any one color and see how much
yarn you use. You also need to calculate
the size of the square you get.
Then
you decide on the length & width of your end product and calculate the yarn
requirement accordingly.
To
start, you could get about 100 gms each for each color.
I
will not be indicating color changes.
Please
start with the darkest color inside for Round 1.
Change for Round 2 and work the lightest
color for Round 3.
Round 4, the last
round, is black for all squares.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Start Round 1 : (Color 1) : with a magic circle and work 3 dc in it ;
(ch
1, 3 dc in the same magic circle) ;
rep
(to) 2 more times ;
ch
1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Pull
lightly to close.
Fasten Color 1. Attach Color 2
Notes
:
1) If
you feel that the ch-1 sp is too tight for you, please work ch-2. I like a less lacy finish and have therefore
worked this accordingly
2) If you find
that working with a magic circle and all these stitches in it is too tedious,
please work a ch-4 to start. Join to
make a circle and then work all the stitches in this ch-4. Do note that you will get a small ‘hole’
instead of a seamless closed finish.
How to change colors seamlessly
: Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the
Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
Round 2 : (Color 2) :
sl-st into the 1st ch-sp ; dc in that same 1st ch-sp ;
[sk
next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-sp ;
ch
1, 3 dc in this same ch-sp] ;
rep
[to] all around ;
ch
1, 2 dc in the next / first ch-sp and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Fasten Color 2. Attach Color 3
Round 3 : (Color 3) :
sl-st into the 1st ch-sp ; dc in that same 1st ch-sp ;
*(sk
next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-sp) ;
[rep
(to) once ; ch 1, 3 dc in this same ch-sp]*
rep
*to* all around ;
ch
1, 2 dc in the next / first ch-sp and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Fasten Color 3. Attach Black
Round 4 : (Black yarn) :
sl-st into the 1st ch-sp ; dc in that same 1st ch-sp ;
*(sk
next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-sp) ;
rep
(to) once ;
[rep
(to) once ; ch 1, 3 dc in this same ch-sp]*
rep
*to* all around ;
ch
1, 2 dc in the next / first ch-sp and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
I have worked all my tiny squares and then joined them.
Remember
to measure your squares and then work as many squares as you’d like for your
wrap.
Use
one of the joining methods given below to join your squares up.
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery
needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Part 2 : Border
For
this part I’ve used only black yarn.
Re-attach your black yarn for border.
To
start we need to run a round of sc / hdc or dc all around the edges of your
wrap.
The stitch count for our border is in multiples of 10 + 1
So what does that mean? This means that when you run that round of sc / hdc all around the edges of your wrap, you need to ensure that you have multiples of 10 + 1 on whichever edges you want to work this border.
So if this is only the top and bottom edge, you need the stitch count along these edges. The other two edges (that you are not working border) need not have this stitch count.
How do you ensure you get the stitch count right?
a) Count how many stitches you have from one end of your granny square to the next and see if you can get the multiples right before you start ; or
b) work a row of sc / hdc all the way tot he end and count to see if you have the number required. If not, just add a few stitches along the row.
Yes, this may involve a little ripping out but choose what works for you.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
I
have worked the border only along one long length of my wrap.
You could work the same pattern on both sides of your wrap as well.
Here
is the chart that inspired me, and these are my notes for my interpretation of
this chart.
Start Row 1 : [dc ; ch 1, dc] in the 1st st ;
*{ch
3, sk next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts ;
ch
2, sk next st, sc in the next 3 sts} ;
ch
3, sk next 3 sts, (dc ; ch 2, dc) all in the next st* ;
rep
*to* till the last 4 sts ;
ch
3, sk next 3 sts, rep (to) in the last st.
Turn.
Row 2 :
dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*(ch
3, sk next sc, sc in the next 2 sc ;
ch
2, sc in the next 2 sc) ;
ch
3, sk next sc, 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep
*to* till the last ch-1 sp ;
2
dc in that last ch-1 sp ; dc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 3 :
dc in the 1st dc ;
(2
dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) once ;
*ch
3, sk next 2 sc, 2 sc in the ch-2 sp ;
ch
3, sk 2 sc, rep (to) 4 times* ;
rep
*to* till the last 3 dc ;
rep
(to) 2 times ; dc in the last dc. Turn.
Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :
Insert
hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and
pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete.
Row 4 :
dc in the 1st dc ;
(2
dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 3 times ;
*ch
3, sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
ch
3, rep (to) 8 times* ;
rep
*to* till the last 5 dc ;
rep
(to) 4 times over the last 4 dc ;
dc
in the last dc. Turn.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd
ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you
will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Choose
to work a ch-3 or ch-5 picot depending on the yarn you use.
In case you have a thicker yarn, a ch-3 picot will work ; ch-5 picot is ideal for lighter yarns in this project.
Row 5 :
sc in the 1st 4 dc ;
*ch
3, sk next 5 dc, (dc + picot + dc all in the next sc) ;
ch
3, sk next 5 dc, sc in the next 2 dc ;
[sc
+ picot + sc all in the next dc] ;
sc
in the next 3 dc* ;
rep
*to* till the last 9 dc ;
ch
3, sk next 5 dc, sc in the next 3 dc ;
sc
in the last dc.
Fasten
off and weave in ends. Add tassels at
the end if you want.
Block
as per yarn requirements.
Here’s
hoping you have a fun creative day too.
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Here are some of my
earlier neckwear creations. Have fun
with these free patterns too
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
and some boleros / jacket / vests ...
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
and a doll’s top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
.. and some neckwear
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
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