STRAPPY SPIDER VEST
When I saw this pattern, I remembered that I had the exact same colour yarn in my stash. So here goes my creation for today.
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As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.
Pattern inspiration http://www.pourfemme.it
Materials used : Today I’ve used about 120 gms of a light 3 ply acrylic yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook
General yarn information : You can use any yarn with a suitable hook. You can use knitting cotton for this creation – and it will make a great summer top.
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size made about 32”- 34”
You can make this top to any size that you need.
The size is given here just for an approximate estimation of yarn.
Please note that yarn requirement depends on the yarn / hook used, the tension /looseness of your work as well as the size you are making it for.
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
ch : chain ch-sp : chain space
sp : space rep : Repeat
sc : Single crochet sl-st : slip stitch
hk : hook lp : loop
yo : yarn over
dc : Double crochet
fdc : Foundation double crochet
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Instructions
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern. There are also loads of notes and ideas, so please read through the full instruction sheet first.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project. This allows you to work this pattern to any (body) size and length needed.
Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.
1) We start from the waist line and work our way up to the armhole and neckline. So we’re working bottom up.
2) We work the same pattern for the front and back along the sides, leaving an armhole and then shoulders, leaving a neckline opening.
3) With the pattern today, we will work two identical halves for front and back.
4) Please take measurements of round bust and round waist – and for the first row of our pattern, you will use the larger measurement. This means that if your waist is more than bust, please use the waist measurement.
5) As we’re working two halves, we will use half the round measurement for each half – so half the round bust or round waist measurement for the first start row
Our stitch count is in multiples of 13 + 11.
Note :
A) The pattern chart shows a chain start followed by dc row.
I have started my pattern with the Foundation Double Crochet (fdc) … my preferred start stitch. Check the video at the top of this blog.
I urge you to try this start as it give a much better finished product.
B) In case you are struggling with fdc, start with loose chain, in multiples of 13 + 13 (2 extra chain that will make your 1st dc).
C) You will then work your 1st dc in the 3rd chain from hook.
D) Work a dc in each chain till end, and then count to confirm you have the stitch count needed.
E) In Row 1, you will work as instructed, but work in each dc (and not fdc).
Start with the fdc as per stitch count (for half round waist or half bust measure, whichever is more) Turn.
Row 1 : dc in the 1st 2 fdc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 fdc , dc in the next fdc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 fdc, dc in the next 10 fdc ;
*ch 8, sk next 3 fdc , dc in the next 10 fdc* ;
rep *to* till last 7 fdc ;
ch 2, sk next 3 fdc , dc in the next fdc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 fdc , dc in the last 2 fdc. Turn.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 3, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc ;
*ch 5, sk next 3 dc , 2 sc in the next ch-8 sp ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* till last 10-dc set ;
ch 5, sk 3 dc, dc in the next 4 dc ;
ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sc in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 7, sk next sc , dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc ,
(2 sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
sc in the next 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
*ch 8, sk next 4 dc , rep (to) once* ;
Rep *to* till last 4-dc set ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc , dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 7, sk next sc , dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;
[ch 2, dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*ch 5, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next 2 sc ;
ch 5, sk next 2 sc, 4 dc in the next ch-8 sp* ;
Rep *to* till last ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next 2 sc ;
ch 5, sk next 2 sc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
dc in the next dc ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;
ch 2, dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 5 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 3, sc in the next sc ;
[ch 3 , dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next 4 dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
*ch 8, sk next 2 sc , 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
dc in the next 4 dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till last 4 dc set ;
ch 8, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
dc in the next 4 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sc in the next sc ;
ch 3, dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 6 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 7, sk next sc, dc in the next dc ;
ch 2 , sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc ;
*ch 5, sk next 3 dc, 2 sc in the next ch-8 sp ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
Rep *to* till last 10-dc set ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, 2 sc in the next ch-8 sp ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 4 dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
ch 7, sk next sc, dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 7 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;
[ch 2, dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc , (2 sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
sc in the next 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
*ch 8, sk next 4 dc , rep (to) once* ;
Rep *to* till last 4-dc set ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc , dc in the next dc ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;
ch 2, dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 8 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ;
[ch 2, dc in he next dc] ;
3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*ch 5, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next 2 sc ;
ch 5, sk next 2 sc, 4 dc in the next ch-8 sp* ;
Rep *to* till last ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next 2 sc ;
ch 5, sk next 2 sc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
dc in the next dc ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 3, sc in the next sc ;
ch 3, dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 9 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 7, sk next sc , dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 4 dc ;
3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*ch 8, sk next 2 sc , 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
dc in the next 4 dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till last 4 dc set ;
ch 8, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
dc in the next 4 dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next dc ;
ch 7, dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 10 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
ch 2 , sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc ;
*ch 5, sk next 3 dc, 2 sc in the next ch-8 sp ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
Rep *to* till last 10-dc set ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, 2 sc in the next ch-8 sp ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 4 dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sc next ch-7 sp ; ch 2, dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 11 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ;
[ch 2, dc in the next dc] ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc , (2 sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
sc in the next 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
*ch 8, sk next 4 dc , rep (to) once* ;
Rep *to* till last 4-dc set ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc , dc in the next dc ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 3, sc in the next sc ;
ch 3, dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 12: dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 7, sk next sc, dc in the next dc ;
[ch 2, dc in he next dc] ;
*ch 5, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next 2 sc ;
ch 5, sk next 2 sc, 4 dc in the next ch-8 sp* ;
Rep *to* till last ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next 2 sc ;
ch 5, sk next 2 sc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
dc in the next dc ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 7, dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 13 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;
ch 2 , dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next 4 dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*ch 8, sk next 2 sc , 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
dc in the next 4 dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till last 4 dc set ;
ch 8, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
dc in the next 4 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;
ch 2, dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 14 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc ;
*ch 5, sk next 3 dc , 2 sc in the next ch-8 sp ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* till last 10-dc set ;
ch 5, sk 3 dc, dc in the next 4 dc ;
ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sc in the next sc ;
ch 3, dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Great job. Put your work down and admire the pattern that you’ve just created.
I know you’ve got the hang of the pattern as well, and don’t really need it, but our pattern repeat rows are Rows 3 – 14.
Continue working repeat rows Rows 3 – 14 till you reach the armhole level, where we will work in a small decrease.
Decrease Ideas :
So there is no specific calculation or row in which you need to stop, because as you will notice from each end we have the same stitch combination.
From end we have a set of 3 dcs followed by a ch-3 sp and then the sc, ch 3 sp and then a dc.
So we will just sl-st right up to this dc, and then work the pattern back all over again.
We start at this dc, and we only decrease on this one row.
After that, we will continue straight on with the pattern till we get to the neckline.
Neckline decrease idea :
Now here’s a set of things one can do for the neckline shaping.
You could do as the designer has, and do the strappy shoulder straps – or you could do the general regular decrease for the neckline and work with the pattern all the way to the shoulders.
So first off, decide where you want your neckline to start (so depth of neckline from shoulders).
See how far up from the armhole this point comes, and then continually measure off as you’re working on your armhole, so that you reach that neckline start line.
If you decide to work a strappy look like the designer, then you will just do a straight edge and finish off at whichever point you decide you want the neckline.
If you decide on the regular thicker strap, then you will work say one pattern repeat from the edge all the way to the shoulders from the neckline start. You will then fasten off at the shoulder and re-attach yarn for the other side.
Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the other side of your top.
Finishing :
When you’ve done both front and back sections, attach the shoulder blades (if you have the conventional top finish), the sides and weave in all ends.
If you have done the strappy vest, then you will attach the sides, and then at the end of each top, make a quick strap that attaches front to back.
Strap ideas :
Depending on how thick or slender you want this strap here are some ideas.
First off, decide how long you want your strap.
For the most slender, I’d suggest work an fsc row.
Attach your yarn to the front of the vest and then run a row of fsc to attach at the back of the vest.
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
You could also work a fhdc (foundation half double crochet) or fdc row for a slightly thicker strap.
Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) : This is an easy way to start a row of hdc without the starting chain row.
Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/SEG2UCRfypA
For a slightly thicker strap, you could add a row of sc or hdc (working back from the where you have attached to the back of your top) to the front of the top.
Neatening it all up
Just to keep all edges neat, I’ve run a round of hdc all around the neckline and armhole edges. This gives a good finish and holds in all the weaved ends as well.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Give yourself a big pat on the back for a great project done – totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.
And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !
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I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
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