Saturday, 1 November 2014
LAYERED SHELLED DRESS
LAYERED SHELLED DRESS
After a few adult wearables, this cute dress popped up on my laptop screen one day.. and it’s been haunting me.. so simple.. so cute.. and it has so many possibilities. Not sure how I’m going to work my colours and yarns .. but let me just get my yarns out... hmmm I can use shades of colour and start with the lightest for the yoke, then go one shade darker for the first set of layers and finally end with the darkest shade for the lowest part of this cute dress ... or just simply use two colours and alternate.. I’m sure that’ll look splendid! J
Once again, let me inform you at the outset, that this pattern too is a bit wordsy (and yes, as I said before, don’t know if this is a word.. but you know what I mean by it.. so we’re good). J
There are a few things that can be done differently, so if you think you have a simpler way of doing this.. do add it to the comments and or mail me, so we can make it simpler for others.
This is not my original pattern and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net. I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.
I have a few dresses for little girls already written up.. and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/09/just-lacy-chevron-dress.html ; http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/09/shelled-delight.html ; http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/09/not-your-regular-chevron-dress.html ;
http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/09/peachilicious-divine-dress.html ; http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/08/cute-in-pink-demystified.html ;
Materials used : Stylecraft 4-ply baby yarn ~ 170 gms , with a 3.25 mm crochet hook.
I think this lovely dress will also work very well with our Indian cotton Anchor, Red Rose and Red heart yarns. Though the gauge will change, the project will be a lot lighter and as beautiful.
Size made : Width : 26” x Length : 22”
Gauge : 5 dc (across) x 2 dc row (high) = 1”
Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/
Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row. Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start. However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.
fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today. So we start from the neck on the yoke, and work in down to the skirt portion. For the first part of the yoke, we will work in rows, so that we have an opening around the back, where we can attach our buttons. We will then join the yoke and start working in rounds, dividing off for the armhole and then the skirt portion. J
While I am working per chart in this pattern, I’ve tweaked it a little bit. In the original pattern, for the skirt section, there is a round of dc’s and picots on the same round (i.e Round 4).. I’ve made it two rounds (i.e Rounds 4 & 5). This is so it simplifies it for the beginner as well. But, you could now put it all together in one round.
PART 1 : YOKE
Start with 51 fsc.
Row 1 : dc in 1st 6 fsc ; [2 dc , ch 1 , 2 dc] in next fsc ; dc in next 10 fsc ; [to] in next fsc ;
dc in next 15 dc ; [to] in next fsc ; dc in next 10 fsc ; [to] in next fsc ; dc in last 6 fsc. Turn.
Row 2 : (Increase row) : dc in 1st 8 dc ; [2 dc , ch 1 , 2 dc] in next ch-1 sp ; dc in next 14 dc ; [to] in next ch-1 sp ; dc in next 19 dc ; [to] in next ch-1 sp ; dc in next 14 dc ; [to] in next ch-1 sp ; dc in last 8 dc. Turn.
Row 3 : (Increase row) : dc in 1st 10 dc ; [2 dc , ch 1 , 2 dc] in next ch-1 sp ; dc in next 18 dc ; [to] in next ch-1 sp ; dc in next 23 dc ; [to] in next ch-1 sp ; dc in next 18 dc ; [to] in next ch-1 sp ; dc in last 10 dc. Turn.
Rows 4 - 9 : Rep Row 3, and continue increasing in the same way.
See if you’ve got a yoke length that you’re happy with, else continue increases till you have a yoke you desire.
Once more a quick analysis of what we’re going to do. So let’s look at what we’ve made thus far. We have a dc section in the back, followed by a corner that has [to] at each end.
So, we’ve increased each side by 2 dc, using the 1st 2 dc of the [to] set. Now in the following row, we skip the [to] in part ; we skip the next dc section which will make up the armhole and jump to the next section with the dc’s (which make the front part of the yoke) and to ensure we get the required round chest measure, we’ll do a ch 6 (which will be the under part of the armhole) ; and we repeat this at the other end too.
Row 10 : dc in 1st 24 dc ; ch 6 , sk next ch-1 sp , sk next 46 dc ; sk next ch-1 sp ; dc in next 51 dc ;
ch 6, sk next ch-1 sp , sk next 46 dc ; sk next ch-1 sp ; dc in each dc till end. Turn.
Row 11 : dc in 1st 24 dc ; 6 dc in the ch-6 sp ; dc in next 51 dc ; 6 dc in the ch-6 sp ; dc in each dc till end. Turn.
Row 11 & 12 : dc in each dc till end. Turn.
Now in Row 12, if you decide you want to add in a satin ribbon, then do remember to sk a dc and add a ch-1 sp at that point in regular intervals, and this will give you a neat set of holes where in you can thread your lacy ribbon.
Note : Our repeat here is 15 sts. So in your last row, do a quick stitch count check. We have a little button placket that also needs to get done, so we can easily ‘add’ any stitches we need in this bit.
This completes our yoke section. What I usually like to do now, is make the little button placket. So as we’re already at the back end, I do an 2 sc in each vertical bar of the dc’s all the way to the top, and then back down again till I have a ½” button placket on each side. If you’re attaching a button that you wish to slip into a button hole, then remember to skip a st and add a chain at that point that will become your little button hole. Once you’re done with the button placket, overlap and join the back section (holding them together with a pin will also do) so that you can start working in round for the skirt portion of your dress.
PART 2 : SKIRT PART
Our repeat here is 15 sts. So once we get this first foundation row done, the rest of it is a lot simpler.
Round 1 : dc in 1st dc , ch 4, dc in same 1st dc ; *[sk next 2 dc , sc in next dc ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next sc] ; rep [to] 2 times ; sk next 2 dc , (dc in next dc ; ch 4, dc in same dc)* ; rep *to* till end ; ending with [to] ; sk next 2 dc , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-4 sp ; 9 dc in ch-4 sp ; *sc in next ch-3 sp ; [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ; rep [to] once ; 9 dc in ch-4 sp* ; rep *to* till end ; ending with [to]. Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; [ch 1, dc in next dc] ; rep [to] 7 times ; (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ; *dc in next dc ; rep [to] 8 times ; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
In our next round, we’re going to use picots in the ch-1 sps just made. Our picot here is (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st ch), all in the same ch-1 sp.
Round 4 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; (sc + picot in the same ch-1 sp) ; *[ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp ; picot + sc in same ch-1 sp] ; rep [to] 6 times ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;
sk next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp ; picot in same ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Now this is basically the pattern we’ll be following, but if you see the chart below, this pattern ‘moves’ – so that these four rounds now come in-between 2 sets.. so a minor change.
The second this is that this layer and all the succeeding layers will come from ‘under’ the layer on top – and for that we have a row of chain. So take a look at the pattern below, and the hook like stitch represents the ‘hooking into’ the stitch on the line below. Right.. so let’s carry on.
Round 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 3, sk next dc, fpdc in next dc) ; rep (to) 3 times ; *sk next sc, fpdc in next dc ; rep (to) 4 times* ; rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Note : In the next round we will be repeating our first round, but with a small change. Now let’s take a quick look at our Round 5. We have 5 fpdc sts per shell, and then the 1st fpdc of the next shell without a space or stitch in between. Now it’s in these 2 fpdc’s (i.e the 5th fpdc of one shell, and the 1st fpdc of the next shell) that we start our new shell. So in the (to) below, when it says ‘same’ dc, I refer to these 2 dc as one st. Hope this makes sense. The chart is a bit ‘blurry’ for this. What you could also do is just go into the space between the 5th fpdc and 1st fpdc so that your shell will be bang in the centre.
Round 6 : dc in 1st dc , ch 4, dc in same 1st dc ; * sc in next ch-3 sp ; [ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next ch-3 sp] ; rep [to] 2 times ; (dc in next dc ; ch 4, dc in same dc)* ; rep *to* till end ; ending with [to] ; sk next 2 dc , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Rounds 7 - 10 : Rep Rounds 2 to 5.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
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Have a great day and see you soon. J
A full time mum, a part time social service volunteer, animal fosterer and a Guinness World Record holder
I love art and craft - and am grateful for this hobby that keeps me busy and out of 'mischief'.
We (as a family) are also staunch protectors of stray animals and will continue to do our bit to make this a safe world for them.
We strongly believe in R-R-R and several of my projects will show this.