Saturday, 1 November 2014

LAYERED SHELLED DRESS

free crochet girls dress pattern, free crochet layered dress patternfree crochet girls dress pattern, free crochet layered dress pattern

LAYERED SHELLED DRESS


After a few adult wearables, this cute dress popped up on my laptop screen one day.. and it’s been haunting me.. so simple.. so cute.. and it has so many possibilities.  Not sure how I’m going to work my colours and yarns .. but let me just get my yarns out... hmmm I can use shades of colour and start with the lightest for the yoke, then go one shade darker for the first set of layers and finally end with the darkest shade for the lowest part of this cute dress ... or just simply use two colours and alternate..  I’m sure that’ll look splendid! J

Once again, let me inform you at the outset, that this pattern too is a bit wordsy (and yes, as I said before, don’t know if this is a word.. but you know what I mean by it.. so we’re good). J  
There are a few things that can be done differently, so if you think you have a simpler way of doing this.. do add it to the comments and or mail me, so we can make it simpler for others.

This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.   

You can use these instructions to make this dress for any size using any yarn with a suitable hook.
Please read through all my detailed instructions for using this pattern to the fullest.  Cheers.


THE INSPIRATION


Materials used : Stylecraft 4-ply baby yarn  ~ 170 gms , with a 3.25 mm crochet hook.
I think this lovely dress will also work very well with our Indian cotton Anchor, Red Rose and Red heart yarns. Though the gauge will change, the project will be a lot lighter and as beautiful.
Other materials : Stylecraft is an acrylic yarn.  Any knitting cotton yarn with a suitable hook will work as well.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced.
This is a shelled dress, so we use post stitches and need to have a vague idea of working in layers.

Size made : Width : 26” x Length : 22”
Gauge : 5 dc (across) x 2 dc row (high) = 1”
Gauge not important.  Stitch count and body measurements are used for this pattern.

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One fpdc complete


How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                               sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                   sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                            ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                            hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                             fsc : Foundation Single Crochet

                                   
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.    We work from the neck down (top down).
So we start from the neck on the yoke, and work in down to the skirt portion.  
For the first part of the yoke, we will work in rows, so that we have an opening around the back, where we can attach our buttons.  
We will then join the yoke and start working in rounds, dividing off for the armhole and then the skirt portion. J

While I am working per chart in this pattern, I’ve tweaked it a little bit. 
In the original pattern, for the skirt section, there is a round of dc’s and picots on the same round (i.e Round 4).. I’ve made it two rounds (i.e Rounds 4 & 5).  
This is so it simplifies it for the beginner as well.  But, you could now put it all together in one round. 

Different yarns /hook size and tension with which you work will give you a different size.  Do not worry.  Just work increases of the pattern for both yoke and skirt section and you're still going to end up with a lovely project.

PART 1 : YOKE

Start with 51 fsc.
Note : Check the top of this blog for  a fantastic link  - "general neck sizing chart".  The chart is given age-wise with the start number of stitches.  Using the instructions below, work the pattern for the yoke size  needed for your child. (meses = months ; cadenas = stitches ; anos = years)
(Eg :  6 a 12 meses = 6-12 months ; Start with 58 sts ; 9 each for the back ; 12 each for the sides and 18 across the front.  So place markers at the 9th st , then 12th st etc all around and these become your corner sts.  Follow instructions below accordingly) 

 In our following row, let's place markers for our four corners.  
Place a marker on the 7th  st ; then sk 10 sts and place in the next st ; then sk 15 sts and place in the next st ; lastly sk 10 sts and place in the next st.  

Row 1 : dc in 1st 6 fsc ; [2 dc , ch 1 , 2 dc] in next corner marked fsc ; 
dc in next 10 fsc ; [to] in next corner marked fsc ; 
dc in next 15 dc ; [to] in next corner marked fsc ; 
dc in next 10 fsc ; [to] in next corner marked fsc ; 
dc in last 6 fsc.  Turn.


You can now remove your markers as we we'll work all our corner patterns in the ch-1 sp of the earlier corner.
Row 2 : (Increase row) : dc in 1st 8 dc ; [2 dc , ch 1 , 2 dc] in next ch-1 sp ; 
dc in next 14 dc ; [to] in next ch-1 sp ; 
dc in next 19 dc ; [to] in next ch-1 sp ; 
dc in next 14 dc ; [to] in next ch-1 sp ; dc in last 8 dc.  Turn.



Row 3 : (Increase row) : dc in 1st 10 dc ; [2 dc , ch 1 , 2 dc] in next ch-1 sp ; 
dc in next 18 dc ; [to] in next ch-1 sp ; dc in next 23 dc ; [to] in next ch-1 sp ; 
dc in next 18 dc ; [to] in next ch-1 sp ; dc in last 10 dc.  Turn.

Rows 4 - 9 : Rep Row 3, and continue increasing in the same way.
See if you’ve got a yoke length that you’re happy with, else continue increases till you have a yoke you desire.  
Remember while you are increasing length with this pattern, you are also increasing width (shoulders will also increase).


Once more a quick analysis of what we’re going to do.  
What we’ve made thus far?  We have a dc section in the back, followed by a corner that has [to] at each end.  
So, we’ve increased each side by 2 dc, using the 1st 2 dc of the [to] set.  
Now in the following row, we skip the [to] in part ; we skip the next dc section which will "create" the armhole  and jump to the next section , attaching the corners of the back and front yoke.
To ensure we get the required round chest measure, we’ll work a ch 6 (which will be the under part of the armhole).  

If you are working this type of pattern for the first time, here's how you can visualise what we're going to do.  Fold your yoke in half and you'll see a neckline and shoulders ; the two back halves and and one front.  The lower edge of the two sides will now create the armhole opening.  It's these two corners that we will attach (adding ch-6 for armhole ease).  Got it?

Row 10 : dc in 1st 24 dc ; 
ch 6 , sk next ch-1 sp , sk next 46 dc ; 
sk next ch-1 sp ; dc in next 51 dc ; 
ch 6, sk next ch-1 sp , sk next 46 dc ; 
sk next ch-1 sp ; dc in each dc till end. Turn.

Row 11 : dc in 1st 24 dc ; 6 dc in the ch-6 sp ; 
dc in next 51 dc ; 6 dc in the ch-6 sp ; dc in each dc till end. Turn.

Row 11  : dc in each dc till end. Turn.

Two options for Row 12.  

If you decide you want to add in a satin ribbon, then instructions below.  
This will give you a neat set of holes where in you can thread your lacy ribbon.

Row 12  : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; (ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) till last 2 dc ; dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.

ELSE, choose Option Row 12 A. 
Row 12A  : dc in each dc till end. Turn.  


We have completed our yoke section.  
We need to work in a little button placket.  



  PART 2 : BUTTON PLACKET FINISHING

I suggest we finish the placket and yoke right now.  

The placket is worked along the back edge.  
a) First run 2 rows of sc all the way down the side to get a neat edge.  
b) Remember the thumb rule of working 2 sc per horizontal bar of dc.  
c) Count how many stitches you are working along one side of your placket for evenness along the other side.
d) Decide what button you are using and how many.  Check the placement of buttons.
e) With the back facing you, and the shoulders facing upwards, your button holes will be worked along the right hand side of your yoke placket.
f)  Depending on how large your button holes are made by skipping stitches.  
So the pattern approximately will be as follows :
Button hole row : sc in the 1st 2 sts (from neck edge) ; *ch 2, sk next 2 sts , sc in the next 5 sts* ; rep *to* till end.
Note : This is just an example - the ch-2 space may be too large or too small for your button. Please adjust the ch-sp for your button size, and the number of stitches worked between ch-sps depending on how far you need to space your buttons.
g) Button holes are made only on one side.  Along the other side, you will work an sc in each st all
the way down for about 4 - 5 rows, depending on the width (diameter) of your button.
h) Before you fasten off,  put your buttons into the holes, and join the bottom of the yoke.  We will work the skirt portion in rounds.



PART 3 : SKIRT PART

Note : Our stitch count for the skirt portion is 15 sts

So in your last row, do a quick stitch count check.  
Work in one round of sc to add in the required stitches to get the stitch count right.  
Even if you have more stitches, I will still suggest you add (rather than decrease) as it is always lovely to have a fuller flare for the skirt.  (i.e : say you have 9 stitches more than needed after you calculate multiples - say you have 69 stitches and only need 60 for multiples, I would add in 6 more to get 75, rather than taking these 9 off .  Got it? )

Round 1 : dc in 1st dc , ch 4, dc in same 1st dc ; 
*[sk next 2 dc , sc in next dc ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in next sc] ;  
rep [to] 2 times ; 
sk next 2 dc , (dc in next dc ; ch 4, dc in same dc)* ; 
rep *to* till end ; ending with [to] ; 
sk next 2 dc , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-4 sp ; 9 dc in ch-4 sp ; 
*sc in next ch-3 sp ; [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ; 
rep [to] once ; 9 dc in ch-4 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end ; ending with [to].  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; [ch 1, dc in next dc] ; 
rep [to] 7 times ; 
(sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) ; 
*dc in next dc ; rep [to] 8 times ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In our next round, we’re going to use picots in the ch-1 sps just made.  
Our picot here is (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st ch), all in the same ch-1 sp.  
Check the top of this blog for a "how to" work a picot

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; (sc + picot in the same ch-1 sp) ; 
*[ch 1, sk next dc,  sc in next ch-1 sp ; picot + sc in same ch-1 sp] ; 
rep [to] 6 times ; sc in next ch-3 sp ;
sk next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp ; picot in same ch-1 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Now this is basically the pattern we’ll be following, but if you see the chart below, this pattern ‘moves’ – so that these four rounds now come in-between 2 sets.. so a minor change.

We are working a layered dress.  
a) This means that all the layers will come from ‘under’ the layer on top. 
b) In this pattern, we work a row of ch-sps that go under the earlier layer.
c)  Take a look at the pattern below, and the hook like stitch represents the ‘hooking into’ the stitch on the line below - which is our post stitch being worked from under the earlier row. 
d) The shells in each layer alternate such that the start of each shell is in the middle of 2 shells from the earlier row.  The shells are not worked one below the other.
e) You will work the pattern for the length you need for your dress.

Right.. so let’s carry on.

Round 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 3, sk next dc, fpdc in next dc) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ; 
*sk next sc, fpdc in next dc ; rep (to) 4 times* ; 
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Note : In the next round we will be repeating pattern from our first round, but with a small change.  Now let’s take a quick look at our Round 5.  
We have 5 fpdc sts per shell, and then the 1st fpdc of the next shell without a space or stitch in between.  Now it’s in these 2 fpdc’s (i.e the 5th fpdc of one shell, and the 1st fpdc of the next shell) that we start our new shell.  
So in the (to) below, when it says ‘same’ dc, I refer to these 2 dc as one st. 
Hope this makes sense.  
The chart is a bit ‘blurry’ for this. 
What you could also do is just go into the space between the 5th fpdc and 1st fpdc so that your shell will be bang in the centre of the earlier row shell.  Once you get this figured, the rest of the pattern is a breeze.  

Round 6 : dc in 1st dc , ch 4, dc in same 1st dc ; 
*sc in next ch-3 sp ; [ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;  
rep [to] 2 times ; (dc in next dc ; ch 4, dc in same dc)* ; 
rep *to* till end ; ending with [to] ; 
sk next 2 dc , join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Rounds 7 - 10 : Rep Rounds 2 to 5.


You have successfully completed two rows of shells. 
Continue working Rounds 1 - 10 for the length needed for your dress.  
Fasten off and weave in ends.


 PART 4 : FINAL FINISHING

With this pattern, you have the shoulders, as well as sides all neatly finished already.
The only thing you need to work on is the armhole opening and the neckline.  The neckline is neatly finished as well, but if you want a contrast colour (especially if you have worked in 2 colours), then run a round of sc all around the armhole and the neckline.

I have worked a small shelled border along the armhole.
The stitch count for the shelled armhole border is in multiples of 5  

Border Shell round : sc in the 1st st ; 
*sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in the next sc ; sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc* ; 
rep  *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Alternate border edging : Instead of a shelled finish, you can end with a picot edging.
Border picot round : sc in the 1st 2 st ;  *sc + picot in the next st ; sc in the next 4 sts* ; 
rep  *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

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