Saturday, 9 August 2014

STUNNING DRESS

Sweet Nothings Crochet STUNNING DRESS all donehow beautiful is this dress :)

This is a really stunning crochet baby dress - it is soft, flowing and looks grand. 
This is not my original pattern but these are my original notes as I created my original project.  This original creation has been thought out in detail by some other genius, and I take absolutely no credit for it.  However, the original stunner is written in Russian(?) and after going through the chart, this is how I made the dress – so I thought I’d just explain it out here.

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let's start on our Sweet Nothings Crochet STUNNING DRESS
Materials used : 4-ply baby wool from Wool craft Baby Care, 
with a 4 mm (US 6 , G) crochet hook.  ~ 1.6 skeins , 160 gms
You may also need fabric glue to seal ends ; stitch markers ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; buttons ; press buttons ; satin ribbon ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or Alize knitting cotton yarns as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns  
International yarns :  Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Gauge : Yoke : 2 dc rows x 5.5 dc stitches across = 1”  ; 
Skirt : 2 shells (rows) x 1 shell (across) = 1”

Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)
Starting slip knot :  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw 
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch :  https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
What is a chain stitch ?  https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI


Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet       sp : Space                              
sl-st : Slip stitch             ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)             hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over               sk : Skip

Pattern Instructions  (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.  This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.  
   
You can make this dress to any size, ensuring you keep the stitch count, as mentioned above, in mind.  

I've often been asked "can I make this dress for a 2-yr old girl ?" and my reply is  "Yes, but I'd rather that you check 'chest and waist' measures as your 2-yr old girl and work for her size rather than her age  :)

My notes are always really detailed, but you do need to read through it all to find the pearls of wisdom and ideas to make this creation to fit your baby girl. 
As always, I suggest that you read through it all so you get an idea of what you want done, and you can then navigate through faster.  
Come along then.. let's create something stunning!

 This is not my pattern.  These are just my detailed notes as I work on my own creation.  I have used this link for the pattern and chart here 
PART 1 : Yoke
This dress is worked in two parts – we start with the yoke, which is from just under the armhole to the shoulders, and the neck is a squared one. 
For the frilly lower part of the dress, we reattach to the first start line, and continue downwards.

I’ve made this dress for a Size 28-30 chest, and started with (19 sts x 3 sides) + (9 sts x 2 for back) = 75 fsc, as per the chart given below.  
In the chart below, the ‘circles’ represent ch and the other symbol is for dc.

Now I've written instructions for 2 specific sizes and then one for a general sizing. 

For the general sizes, you'll need to take a look at the link above for a set of charts  general neck sizing given per age.  If these two starts (given by me) do not work for you, please check that chart and follow instructions for yoke. 

Just follow the chart for neck sizing (check the top of this blog)and start for the yoke portion.  
If you get the yoke done right, you will get the dress done right!

Once we're at the skirt portion, we'll work the stitch count to get it right for the size you are making it for.  
I've worked specific stitch count (and if you use this, you'll need to check gauge) for two sizes, but you can do this for any size too.. 
Come along..
Chart 1 : Yoke

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc :  https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA  
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made.  Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
                                                                
For start with 75 fsc : 
dc in 1st fsc ; dc in the next 7 fsc ; 2 dc in the next fsc ;
*ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in the next 17 fsc, 2 dc in next fsc* ; 
rep from *to* twice till last 9 fsc ; 
ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc ; 
dc in each fsc till end.  Turn. (8 sts increased)

Row 2 : dc in 1st dc ; 
(dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) ; 

rep from (to)  4 times ; 
dc in ch-2 sp (at corner) ; 
ch 2, dc in ch-sp ; 
*dc in next dc ; ch 1, dc in next dc ; 
rep from (to) 9 times ; 
dc in next dc; 
ch-1, dc in next dc ; ch 2* ; 
rep from *to* twice ; 
rep from (to) 5 times till end. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in 1st dc ;  
(dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep from (to) 4 times ; 
dc in next dc ; 2 dc in ch-2 sp ; 
ch 2 , *2 dc in ch-2 sp ; 
rep from (to) 12 times ; 
dc in next dc ; 2 dc in ch-2 sp ; ch-2* ; 
rep from *to* twice ; 
2 dc in ch-2 sp ; 
rep from (to) 5 times ; 
dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 and 3 five times = yoke of ~ 5” and width of 11 – 11.5”.

For start with 56 fsc : dc in 1st fsc ;  
dc in the next 5 fsc ; 
2 dc in the next fsc ; 
*ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc ; 
dc in the next 13 fsc ; 2 dc in next fsc* ; 
rep from *to* twice till last 7 fsc ; 
ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc ; 
dc in each fsc till end.  Turn. (8 sts increased)

Row 2 : dc in 1st dc ;   
(dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) ; 
rep from (to)  3 times ; 
dc in ch-2 sp (at corner); 
ch 2, dc in ch-sp ; 
*dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc ; 
rep from (to) 6 times ; 
dc in next dc ; ch-1, dc in next dc ; ch 2* ; 
rep from *to* twice ; 
rep from (to) 3 times till end. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in 1st dc ;   
(dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep from (to) 3 times ; 
dc in next dc ; 2 dc in ch-2 sp ; ch 2 ; 
*2 dc in ch-2 sp ;
rep from (to) 10 times ; 
dc in next dc ; 2 dc in ch-2 sp ; ch-2* ; 
rep from *to* twice ; 
2 dc in ch-2 sp ; 
rep from (to) 4 times ; 
dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 and 3 five times = yoke of length ~ 3.75 - 4” and width of 10”.

For a general start : So if  neither of the two starts above work, and say you are working this for a 6-m baby, here's how you'll go about this.

So check the 1st chart for neck sizing.  
Under 6 m it reads, 54 cadenas (i.e 54 stitches).  
Now in the same chart it also gives you number of stitches per side ; and it reads (8 / 11 / 16 / 11 / 8) - so basically 16 sts on back & front, and 11 along the sides. OK?  
The back is split 8 + 8 to accommodate for the  buttons.  
So you will start with 54 stitches, count off the numbers given above and place a marker there.  

You will then work the pattern given below, and your markers are the four corners.  
Easy enough, right?  
So whatever size you are working on, get the yoke size from the chart and work on that first.
So go ahead and make the yoke for the size needed now.

After completion of yoke and before starting on the skirt portion, I worked 2 rows of sc for placket along the back edge, ensuring I made the button-holes for my buttons on the left hand side, and then joined the placket at the bottom edge, so it is now easier to calculate stitches for start of skirt portion.   

So you can do this right away, or you can come back to this right at the end. Just remember that if you want button holes , you need to ch 1 and skip a stitch wherever you want the buttons / button holes to fit in.
Add the button holes for the back of the placket

PART 2 : Skirt
For the skirt portion, we will be working in rounds.  

So for simplicity, let's run a round of sc all around, and in the last st, you will join with a sl-st .  (Check the top of this blog for a slip stitch video if needed)

At this time, you need to ensure that you get the stitch count right.  
Remember that if you want a frillier dress, you will need to add a few stitches on this round , still keeping the stitch count in mind.  

Our stitch count for the skirt is in  multiples of 8 

Our Shell stitch is (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc all in the same st or ch-sp) 

Round 1 :  dc in the 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, sk next dc, Shell st in next dc ; 
ch 1, sk next dc , dc in next dc*; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

From now on , we will work a Shell st in the ch-sp of the earlier Shell st, and a dc in each dc.

Round 2 :  dc in the 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, Shell st in next Shell st ; 
ch 1, dc in next dc* ; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Rep Round 2 for the length needed. 
I worked 18 rows of the shell st pattern (= 11”) before starting on the pineapple section, so my skirt portion was 17.5”, and dress from shoulder to bottom of border ~24.5”

If you would like more flare for your dress, increase the chain space between dc and Shell st.  
It does not matter how many rounds you work with a ch-1 sp ; ch-2 sp and ch-3 sp.  Just space it out a bit, and have fun.  
Ensure though that on your last round, you have ch-3 sps in between. 

If you decide that ch-3 sps are too open for you, no problem.. work only ch-2 sps, but remember that my notes for the border pineapple bit will start with ch-3 sp instructions.

So yes, I know what you are wondering.. If you are working a different length OR you have a different gauge, how will you calculate how many rows of shell stitch before you start on your pineapple?  Right?  

Here's where you need to calculate your gauge.  
What is gauge?  It is the number of stitches (width and length-wise) that make an inch or 2".  
Why do I need to calculate gauge? So that you know how many pineapple patterns you need for the length you want.

OK, so what I will give you now are the number of rows that make up the pineapple pattern.  
You will need to calculate how many inches you gain in the same number of rows. You will then need to keep that many inches aside for the pineapples, and work the shell stitch pattern till there.  

The pineapple stitch plus border are a total of 15 rows.

Confused still - let's get numbers in.   
So  let's say we are working this for a 22" length , and we have a yoke that is  6". 
 You will need to see how many inches you gain in 15 rows lengthwise.  
Say you gain 6".  
This means you already have a total of 12" worked (6" yoke + 6" for pineapples), right?  
So you can work up to 10" in the Shell stitch pattern.  Got it now?
Chart 2
Once you have completed the last of the Shell st pattern, you will start on the pineapple pattern.  
For convenience, I am just going to continue numbering as we are all working different sizes anyway.  

Our next round reads Round 3, though it is obviously not your  Round 3. 
Remember  my instructions will read ch-3 sp between shell st and dc here on.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
*ch 3, Shell st in next Shell st ; ch 3, dc in next dc ;  
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc (of next shell st) ; 
7 dc in the ch-2 sp ; 
dc in the next 2 dc (of same shell st) ; 
ch 3, dc in the next dc*;  
rep *to* all around 
and join with a sl-st to the next st.

Round 4 : sl-st past the 1st dc  and the 1st ch-3 sp into the 1st shell st ; 
Shell st in next Shell st ; 
*ch 5, dc in next dc ;  
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; 
rep (to) 9 times ; 
ch 5, sk next dc , Shell st in the next Shell st*; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with a sl-st to the next st.

In our following round, we will split our Shell stitch.
Round 5 :  Shell st in 1st Shell st ; 
*ch 5, sk next dc , sc in next ch-1 sp ;  
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep (to) 7 times ; 
ch 5, sk next dc , Shell st in the next Shell st*; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with a sl-st to the next st.

Round 6 :  Shell st in 1st Shell st ;  
ch 2, 2 dc in the same Shell st ;
*ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp ;  
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) 6 times ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ; 
ch 2, 2 dc in the same Shell st*; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with a sl-st to the next st.

Round 7 :  Shell st in 1st Shell st ;  
ch 2, Shell st in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp ;  
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) 5 times ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ; 
ch 2, Shell st in the next ch-2 sp*; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with a sl-st to the next st.

Round 8 :  Shell st in 1st Shell st ;  
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ;
*ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp ;  
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st*; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with a sl-st to the next st.

Round 9 :  Shell st in 1st Shell st ;  
ch 5, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ;
*ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp ;  
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ;  
ch 5, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st*; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with a sl-st to the next st.

Round 10 :  Shell st in 1st Shell st ;  
[ch 5, dc in the next ch-5 sp] ; 
rep [to] once ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ;
*ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp ;  
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ;  
ch 5, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
rep [to] once ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st*; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with a sl-st to the next st.

Round 11 :  Shell st in 1st Shell st ;  
[ch 5, dc in the next ch-5 sp] ; 
rep [to] 2 times ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ;
*ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp ;  
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ;  
ch 5, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
rep [to] 2 times ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st*; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with a sl-st to the next st.

Round 12 :  Shell st in 1st Shell st ;  
[ch 5, dc in the next ch-5 sp] ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ;
*ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp ;  
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ;  
ch 5, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st*; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with a sl-st to the next st.

Round 13 :  Shell st in 1st Shell st ;  
[ch 5, dc in the next ch-5 sp] ; 
rep [to] 4 times ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ;
*ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp ;  
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st ;  
ch 5, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
rep [to] 4 times ; 
ch 5, Shell st in the next Shell st*; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with a sl-st to the next st.

PART 3 : Border :  
So I figured the lovely border is a 3-step combination.   
We will work on one shell at a time - 3 rows of pattern in each shell and then move on to the next shell. 

Picot :  I have worked a ch-3 picot (which is ch 3, sl-st into the top of the dc)
How to picot : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook).  For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook). 
Row 1 : sl-st into the ch-sp of the 1st Shell st ; 
5 dc in the same ch-2 sp (of shell).  Turn

Row 2 : 2 dc in 1st dc ; dc in next 3 dc ; 
2 dc in last dc. Turn. (7 dc)

Row 3 : *sc + picot in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* 3 times ; 
picot in last dc.

You will now sl-st into the ch-2 sp of the next Shell st and work the same 3 rows in that Shell st. 

This means that from a Row 3, you come  down to a row two rows below, so your border slopes sideways (photo shows what I mean)

Photo for border 
border pattern detail

PART 4 : Finishing : 
Pass a ribbon through the ch-sps of the last row of yoke, attach buttons, and weave in ends.  
I suggest a light lining of light satin, light chiffon or net for the skirt portion to enhance beauty of dress.

I do hope this explanation is useful.  
I plan on writing a similar explanation for all non-English patterns I encounter, and would love clarification of errors/typos.

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Have a great day and see you soon.  

I have a few similar creations already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  


























































For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.







 























































..and some belts..







and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..






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