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Thursday, 14 August 2014

MOROCCAN TILE TOTE



MOROCCAN TILE TOTE


Taking the idea from the absolutely superb pattern by Tamara Kelly of Moogly (Moroccon Market Tote from Moogly Blog  http://www.mooglyblog.com/moroccan-market-tote/ ), I’ve altered the stitch, but using the same basic design have made this bag.  The original pattern uses the dc in the “V” st, but here I’ve changed that stitch to the e-sc – so the end result is the same, but just cuter smaller stitches – and a ‘chain-like / flower-petal-like (?)’ effect that follows due to this stitch. J
Instructions for how to  make an esc , as well as the “V”–st with the e-sc with photos given

I’d like to thank Tamara who has kindly allowed me to use her idea for this pattern.




Materials used  : 4-ply fingering yarn (black and cream) with a 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
(I’ve used 4-ply Oswal Mills in black, and Vardhaman Millenium in cream)

Size : W : 14.5” x H :  16” and length of handle : ~12.5”

Gauge :  1 ‘V’-st across x 1 diamond = 1”



Abbreviations :
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                             hk : hook
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                               yo: Yarn Over
sl-st : Slip Stitch                                                             fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
MC : Main Colour                                                         CC : Contrast Colour
Dc : Double Crochet                                                     e-sc : Extended single crochet
‘V’-st : ‘V’ stitch                                                           


Link for you tube on attaching zipper to bag : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dnvM41V-3E

Stitches used :

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video. http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/

Foundation Double crochet : A really lovely way to start a foundation row of stitches, directly as a double crochet, without the chains.  This unique way of starting your project actually makes it evener gives your whole project an evenness that needs to be seen to be agreed with.  If you are familiar with the foundation single crochet, then you’ll surely wonder why you didn’t use this one before J
Do visit this link, and learn this fascinating, easy way to start.

Crab stitch / Reverse single crochet : (Reverse sc) : This is your regular single crochet st, but done in reverse.  So instead of moving ‘clockwise’ as we regularly work, you move anti-clockwise or counter clockwise, and you’ll achieve a slightly ‘bumpy’ single crochet, which is your reverse sc. 

e-sc  : Extended Single Crochet: hk into st, yo (2 lps on hk), pull through one lp, yo (2 lps on hk), pull through both lps.  One e-sc made. (An e-sc is basically an sc on an sc)






Instructions for Market bag
We are working here with only 2 colours, and the colour that you wish to have the ‘diamonds’ in will be your CC (off-white in my case), and I’m using my black as my MC.  I am also using the chainless dc start through pattern, so all start will be direct dc (i.e not the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start).

Though the pattern follows the original pattern (by Moogly), I am writing it out again for you J

Row 1 : With MC (black), fdc 54 (or multiples of 3).  Turn. (54 fdc)

Row 2 : dc in each fdc till end.  Turn.  (54 fdc)

Row 3 : dc in each fdc till end.  Turning your work 90°, 6 dc along the side (or end of row) ; turning again 90°, 54 dc across the bottom of Row 1 ; and a final turn of 90° and 6 dc along the other side (or other end of row) till you reach your 1st st.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st (120 fdc)

Note : Check that you have a multiple of 3 sts.  We will work in rounds from here on.


Round 1 : (With CC) : ‘V’-st in the 1st dc, *sk 2 dc, ‘V’-st in the next dc* ; rep from *to* till last st.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (40 ‘V’-sts)

Round 2 : (With MC) : ‘V’-st in the 1st ‘V’-st and in each ‘V’-st till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 
(40 ‘V’-sts)

Round 3 : (With CC) : ‘V’-st in the 1st sp between 2 ‘V’-sts and in each sp between 2 ‘V’-sts till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (40 ‘V’-sts)
Note : The ‘V’-st is not in the ‘V’-st but in the space between 2 ‘V’-sts

Round 4 : (With MC) : ‘V’-st in the 1st ‘V’-st and in each ‘V’-st till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 
(40 ‘V’-sts)

You will notice that your lovely diamonds have started, and you’re set to go. 

Rep Rounds 3 & 4 till you are at a height you are happy with.  I’ve stopped after 20.5 diamonds on a MC (Black yarn) row, with a height of ~ > 13”.

Handle :
This part has been really well explained in the original pattern too, so please check that link for the handle given there.

I’ve improvised a different handle, so my instructions here will differ. We’ll work in two parts.
 Place your bag flat and look at your ‘join’ line.  You will see that it ‘moves’ one stitch (to the right) with every round).  So keeping this side facing you, mark the two corners of your bag now, which will serve as the corner points for your handle.

Fasten off CC.  Weave in ends.

Part 1 :
Round 1 : (With MC) : sc in the 1st st (same st as the join), 1 sc in each dc (of the ‘V’-st) and each ch-1 sp till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (120 sc)

Round 2 : (With MC) : sc in the 1st sc and each sc till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (120 sc)

Rounds 3 and 4 : (With MC) : Rep Round 2.  (120 sc)

Now lets mark four points in the each corner.
a)      Point 1 : Count 10 sc from one side of your original side marker, and place a new marker that we’ll call Point 1.
b)      Point 2 : Count 20 sc from this point (i.e Point 1) in such a way that there are 10 sc on either side of your original side marker. (Remove original side marker)
c)       Point 3 : Count 10 sc from the other side of your original side marker, and place a new marker that we’ll call Point 3.
d)      Point 4 : Count 20 sc from this point (i.e Point 3) in such a way that there are 10 sc on either side of your original side marker. (Remove original side marker)

You now have the four points where we will skip a st to make a ‘hole’ for passing your handle.
Chart and photo below to show you how the ‘holes’ are needed and how we’re going to ‘lace’our handle through it J



Round 5 : (With MC) : dc in 1st sc and in each sc till the Point 1 marker ; *ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next dc , dc in each dc till next Point marker* ; rep from *to* till end.   Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (120 dc)

Round 6 :  (With MC) : sc in the 1st dc and each dc and ch-1 sp till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 
(120 sc)

Last round : (With MC) : crab st in the 1st sc and each sc till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 
Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Part 1 :
In this part, we’ll make a strap-like handle. 

Row 1 : Fdc 180 (or the length you wish for your handle.  I’ve got a ch length of ~ 46”).  Turn. (180 dc)

Row 2 : dc in each dc till end .  Turn. (180 dc)

Row 3 : Rep Row 2

Last Row : (Fold your strap in half, and we will now sc  together from this row into the 1st row of fdc to complete our strap), sc in each fdc till end .  Fasten off.  Weave in ends.  DO NOT ATTACH together.  First lace it through the openings of your bag, THEN attach the two ends neatly.

DO NOT ATTACH 

First lace it through the openings of your bag, THEN attach the two ends neatly.
Line the bag if you like.. link given above.  Enjoy showing off your work d’art J

Have a great day