Friday, 18 September 2015



Maya is a beautiful, extremely intelligent dog that my “lawful” sister and (lawful..yes, that’s what happens when someone marries your brother, right?  J ) and nieces have rescued from a shelter in Brisbane… and we swear she has some Dingo blood in her..
Maya (and my sister-in-law) have enrolled in the local USAR program (Urban Search & Rescue) and you can get all the info (or dirt) on it right here.
Maya basically runs the house.  That said, which pet doesn’t ??  And we love her to bits.. and then some.. J

I was making toys for another kitty cat and thought I’d make something ‘useful’ for Maya too.. well, not so much *for* Maya, but for the hard-working two-leggeds who look after her. This cute little bag will house all the bio-degradable bags that her walkers use to pick up after her – and as it’s cute too, one will probably not mind doing the walking with her too. J

I am also making a little “dress”.. not sure if Maya will like anything frilly – she’s quite a tomboy and loves to run.. gosh, does she love to run.. and she does have superb God-given coat – but I love this one.. so let’s see how long she tolerates wearing it.

Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Vardhaman millennium DK ply acrylic yarn , 4 mm crochet hook
This would work really well with a good cotton Sport yarn too.  In India, we could use our Laura knitting cotton with a 4mm crochet hook.

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate

Stitches used :

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

Front post double crochet 2-tog :

fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One fpdc complete

yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from front of stitch, around st and into the back of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One bpdc complete

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                                sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                    sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                             ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                             hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                                            fdc : Foundation Double Crochet                 


So the pattern is well written and has pictures to follow along with.  The only thing that I thought deserved explanation was when making the back round.  So Round 6, you work in the first 30 dc and then a ch-10 over the last dc.  Round 7 just says dc in the 40 dc, and this should read dc in the 30 dc and each ch of the next ch-10 sp.

The second thing I’d like to add here is the joining of the back and front rounds.  In Round 5, we work only in the back loops to give a lovely edge to our work.  For the other half, we only work Rounds 1-4.  So to join these two halves, we can join with an embroidery needle as suggested, or hold both halves of our work together (there are an even 40 dc in each section) and then sl-st between both halves to join.  So you pass your hook from the back loop of one section (section held closest to you) into the front loop of the other section.  This way you get an edge as well, and this (I thought) defines both back and front halves with a neat set of dc rounds in between.  J

Small additions and explanations that do not deter from the fact that this is a splendid pattern.. and kudos to the lovely Linda Permann for offering this one up for free. J

And I thought I was done with Maya stuff.. but hah! Can one ever do just one thing for a cute pet.. naah.. so here’s a lovely coat for her coat.. Brisbane does get some cold and wet days J


Before we head off to the pattern, let’s talk about it.  So the two inspirations are the buttoned pink coat and then the cute blue n yellow frilly one.  For  practical reasons, I love the buttoned one.. and then I just love the frills.. so hmmm.. let’s combine them.
So we will start with a row of fdc and work from the front and work down to the lower stomach (or nearer the back?).  It doesn’t really matter which end you start from, but there’s a gradual increase that one needs to factor in as our pattern grows to accommodate the stomach, so I chose to work it this way.  If you decide to do the lacy floral collar, then you can use the other side of the fsc to work that in later.

So our coat will need an opening for the front paws, but we will stop before the back paws, though there will be a frilly back piece over that section, that goes all the way to the back – near tail.

We will need the following measurements for our project :
a) Length from neck (or collar) to the back - start of tail
b) Length from neck to the forelegs / front paws
c) Length from neck to the back legs / back paws
d) Round neck (collar)
e) Round stomach

Start with fsc equal to the Round Neck. Have an odd number of stitches.

Row 1 : ch 1, dc in the 1st fsc  ; 
*bpdc in the next fsc ; fpdc in the next fsc* ; 
rep *to* till end. Turn.

Now as my dingo is a larger dog, I am going to do a largish collar bit – and am repeating this pattern row.  If you’re making this for a smaller animal, skip this row.

Row 2 : ch 1, dc in the 1st dc  ; 
*fpdc in the next st ; bpdc in the next st* ; 
Rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 3 : hdc in the 1st dc  ; hdc in each st till end. Turn.

Row 4 : hdc in the 1st hdc  ; hdc in each st till end. Turn.

Increase row : hdc in the 1st hdc ; 
2 hdc in the next hdc ; hdc in each hdc till the 2nd last hdc ; 2 hdc in the same second last hdc ; 
hdc in the last hdc.  Turn.

Now here’s where we will part ways for a bit.  Depending on whether you’re making this for a small or large dog, you will do alternate rows of Row 4 and the Increase Row till you  
reach the front of the front paws.  This is where we will need to make a small opening for the paws to come through.

Once done, you continue without increase till it reaches till the front of the back paws.
Just for a difference, I’ve decided to give the back end a little frilly bit with a shelled pattern.
This border does not go around the bottom, but is only across the top of the coat.  Here I’d suggest you re-measure the dog to see that you only get this border across the top (side to side)

Our border repeat count is 7 + 4
Border Row 1 :  dc in the 1st st ; sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in the next st ; 
*sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st ; sk next 2 sts , 5 dc in the next st*  ; 
rep *to* till end ; sk last 2 sts and dc in the last st.  Turn.

Border Row 2 :  sc in the 1st st ; 
*ch 5, sk next 5 dc ; sc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* till end ; sc in the last st.  Turn.

Border Row 3 :  3 dc in the 1st st ; 
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 5 dc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 3 dc in the last st.  Turn.

Border Row 4 :  sc in the 1st st ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next sc ; 
*ch 5, sk next 5 dc ; sc in the next sc* ; 
Rep *to* till last 3 dc ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc , sc in the last st.  Turn.

Border Row 5 :  dc in the 1st st ; sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in the next sc ; 
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 5 dc in the next sc*  ; 
rep *to* till end ; dc in the last st.  Turn.

Rep Border Rows 2 - 5 once more (for a larger dog, and depending on how far back you want the frilly bit to come.  Ensure that it does not go under your pet, as that part will get dirty all the time and will now allow free movement for the lovely waggy tail)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing :
We need to attach a button placket for the coat.  So decide which side will hold your buttons as well as the size of that button first.  As we’re going to attach the buttons on the coat that goes in the under side (belly-side) of your pet, I’d suggest a larger sized button that is easy to button on without too much of a pet ‘n mamma struggle J

Re-attach your yarn at one end of the coat and run a row of sc all the way down one side of the coat.  I then did a row of hdc all the way back in each sc till end.
For the “holes”, I first measured out the button placket, and then decided how many buttons and where they’d be placed.  I then figured out which was the stitch I’d miss and placed markers in those stitches, ensuring that they are neatly and evenly spaced.

In the following row, do a hdc in each st, and to sk the marked st, do a ch-1 at that marked stitch.  The ch-1 will give you the button hole you need to slip your button in.
Now IF your button is a larger one, and your yarn does not have as much flexibility and ‘give’ or stretch, please check and do a dc in each st instead of a hdc.
I then worked a row of hdc in each st and a hdc in the ch-1 sp as well all the way down.

The final row was 1 hdc in each hdc till end.
This was for the ‘holed’ side of the button placket.

For the other side, repeat all these rows, but do not miss a stitch in the 2nd row (or 1st hdc / dc row).  Ensure that both sides of the placket have the same number of rows.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Attach buttons on the button flap for the coat.

Slip this cute coat on your pet and watch him / her enjoy the warmth and love that has gone into your creation.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

Have a great day and see you soon. J

I’ve made one other thing for a pet that I’ve written up about.. so for a quick dekho of that here’s that link.  This link has a blanket as well as kitten  toys.

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