ALTERNATE
SHELLS POTLI BAG
I
have made a few of this sling swag bags, and someone wanted a simpler version..
well, I think this qualifies as simple. .. Well, with a slight twist
Throw
in the beads for a little bling and you have a lovely beaded bag for an evening
out.. or just to carry your mobile phone and keys. The beauty of this bag is that you can make
it in just about any size you want.
So
what’s a Potli ? (पोटली {poTali} = SWAG is the Hindi
equivalent for Swag bag.
We will start our little potli bag from the base and work up to the top – so no drama here.. let’s just start with this cute lil’ bag.
We will start our little potli bag from the base and work up to the top – so no drama here.. let’s just start with this cute lil’ bag.
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Materials used : Polyester purse yarn in cones , with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; stitch markers ; embroidery needle.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s)
: Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc
: Double crochet sp :
Space
sl-st
: Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s)
: Stitch(es) hk
: Hook
yo
: Yarn Over
Instructions :
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
You could work with one color or two colors of yarn - and you can add beads as well
How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ
How to add beads : https://youtu.be/EcpgMgBox8I
How to work with beads in crochet : https://youtu.be/yanbAnF_pr0
Inspired by this free chart I found on the internet, here are my notes and few additions to this lovely design.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/470063279834786955/
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_MWhat is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Start
with a magic circle and 11 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Pull lightly to close the magic circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Pull lightly to close the magic circle.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Round 1 :
2 hdc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 2 :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
*hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ;
hdc in the last hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
hdc in the last hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 3 :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next 2 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
*hdc in the next 2 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ;
hdc in the last 2 hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
hdc in the last 2 hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 4 :
hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 5 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
*hdc in the next 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ;
hdc in the last 3 hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
hdc in the last 3 hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Rep
Rounds 4 and 5, increasing by 11 sts every alternate round, ending with Round
5, till you have a base of the size you want for your bag.
Next round : In this last round for the base, sc
in back loops only (blo), so that we get an edge that will not just look good,
but also hold the bag base down flat.
If
you do not want the edge and are happy with the base size here, please end with
Round 4.
Main body pattern for sides / top of potli bag
For
the top / sides of our bag, we will continue without any increase.
For
convenience, I am going to re-number our rounds starting once again from
1.
Please do not confuse these
rounds with the numbers above. For all
instructions that follow here, they are meant for this top/side section of your
bag only.
The chart a dc so this is how I’ll write the pattern out. You may use the hdc, or dc for this lovely
creation.
Our
“V” stitch (“V”-st) here is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Round 1 :
“V”-st in the 1st st ;
ch 1, sk next 2 sts , sc in the next st ;
ch 1, sk next 2 sts , sc in the next st ;
*ch
5, sk next 4 sts, sc in the next st ;
ch 1, sk next 2 sts , “V”-st in the next st ;
ch 1, sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st* ;
ch 1, sk next 2 sts , “V”-st in the next st ;
ch 1, sk next 2 sts, sc in the next st* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 1 , sk next 2 sts,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
ch 1 , sk next 2 sts,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 2 :
3 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(3 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sc in the next
ch-5 sp ; 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
*3
dc in the next “V”-st ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end ;
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 3 :
sl-st / sk the 1st 3 dc, sc in the sp between the next 2 dc ;
*ch
1, sk next 3 dc , “V”-st in the next sc ;
ch 1, sk next 3 dc , sc in the sp between the next 2 dc ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next st* ;
ch 1, sk next 3 dc , sc in the sp between the next 2 dc ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next st* ;
rep *to* till end
;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
ch 5, sk next 3 dc,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 4 :
3 dc the 1st ch-1 sp , 3 dc in the next “V”-st ;
(3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
(3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
*sc
in the next ch-5 sp ;
[rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp ;
3 dc in the next “V”-st ;
3 dc in the next “V”-st ;
rep (to) once*;
rep *to* all around,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 5 :
“V”-st in the next sc ;
ch 1, sk next 3 dc , sc in the sp between the next 2 dc ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next st ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 dc , “V”-st in the next sc ;
ch 1, sk next 3 dc , sc in the sp between the next 2 dc ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next st* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 1, sk next 3 dc,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
ch 1, sk next 3 dc , sc in the sp between the next 2 dc ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next st ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 dc , “V”-st in the next sc ;
ch 1, sk next 3 dc , sc in the sp between the next 2 dc ;
ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next st* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 1, sk next 3 dc,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 6 :
3 dc the 1st “V”-st ;
(3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
(3 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
*sc
in the next ch-5 sp ;
[rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp ; 3 dc in the next “V”-st ;
[rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp ; 3 dc in the next “V”-st ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around,
rep (to) ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
rep *to* all around,
rep (to) ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 7 :
Rep Round 3
And
that’s one repeat done. So stop now and look at the beauty you’ve created.
Our
repeat rounds are Rounds 4 – 7. Continue
repeats till you have a bag of the length you desire.
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
Now
rather than have a ‘hole’ row to thread in our I-cord, I have just used the
spaces between the shells, such that these shells then stick out on top and
look really neat.
Finishing :
So
we make our I-cord, thread it into the spaces ; line our bag and voila!
We’re
ready to show off this lovely creation too.
Easiest I-cord : https://youtu.be/e_AQ9m0QeZI
How to line the bag : http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/
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