Sweet Nothings Crochet: NEAT RECTANGULAR CLUTCH

NEAT RECTANGULAR CLUTCH

This is such a neat idea – so darn easy, and so cool.. obviously this is another one that you will try .. and one I am sure make again and again.

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Materials used : Indian polyester purse yarn in cones , with a 4 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; stitch markers ; embroidery needle.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e or unbranded knitting cotton as well

General yarn info : This polyester yarn is available only in India.

The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn ; Hobby Lobby's I-love-this-cotton ; Spotlight's 4-Seasons Marvel & Stallion 8-ply acrylic yarns.

Size made : ~ 8.75 " x 6"

You can make this to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook.

Difficulty level : Easy to intermediate skill level

Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Extended single crochet (e-sc) : Here is an easy video tutorial

https://youtu.be/ZeXQ3NLVjPU

How to line a bag : http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/

How to attach a zipper onto a bag :

http://frogknitting.blogspot.se/2013/08/att-sy-i-dragkedjor-installing-zippers.html?m=1

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over sk : Skip
dc : Double crochet
fdc : Foundation double crochet
e-sc : Extended single crochet

Instructions :

The beauty of this pattern is that you could work with either an sc , an e-sc or dc.

So while I’ll write out the pattern as per chart, do substitute whatever stitch suits you.

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and clutch bag measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Start with 32 fdc (or as many as you'd like for the length of your clutch purse). Turn.

In the following row, we’ll work till the end of the row, then work 4 dc along the horizontal bar of that last fdc to and go to the bottom of the fdc row, work one dc in the bottom of that same fdc. We will then continue working along the bottom till the start st. When we reach the end of this (bottom) row, you’re back at that 1^st start fdc, so once again in that horizontal bar we will do 4 dcs, and you will join to the 1^st fdc. This way you will have 6 dc’s at each end of this first fdc start row.

As explanations below in the instruction will be tedious, please follow this method in the to add the 4 extra dcs in Row 1.

I would also advise that you keep 4 markers ready.

Now at each corner we’re going to be increasing stitches, and it’s going to get increasingly complicated to start counting stitches. So if you have this convenient marker, you just move it along and then work the increases only in that corner stitch.

So how do you find the corner?

In Row 1, we’ll increase by 5 sts.

So we work till the last fdc on this row , then the increase 5 sts, and then 1^stagain in the same fdc from the bottom end.

So the 1^st and 5^th st of the increase sts will be your two corners for both ends of your purse. See chart below.

Now I also notice that as per chart, the designer has worked till the corner st, and then made the increases (from Round 2 on) in the space between the corner st and the next st. Now this usually works well with a lighter yarn, but I’ve always found that with a bulkier yarn, you get a space there (as we’re adding 3-5 sts at that point) – so you could either just make your increases on the marker for the corner st (as I have) or do as the designer has.

Whatever your decision, please note that I will write increase on the marker stitch for convenience.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fdc and in each fdc till last fdc ;

6 fdc in the same last fdc ;

then turning your work 90˚,

and working along the bottom of the fdc, dc in each fdc till the 1^st fdc ;

5 dc in that 1^st (or last for this side) fdc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Identify your four corner stitches, and please set your markers into them.

Remember to move the markers with every row.

In this row, I’ve given you the full stitch count for the corners etc, but from following row, instructions will be ‘to marker’ etc.

From here on, we’ll work in rounds.

Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1^st dc ;

dc in the next 32 dc ;

(3 dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;

3 dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the next dc) ;

dc in the next 31 dc ;

[3 dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;

3 dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the last dc].

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ; dc in the each dc till 1^st marker ;

5 dc in the next dc (marker st) ; dc in each dc till 2^nd marker ;

5 dc in 2^nd marked st ; dc in each dc till 3^rd marker ;

5 dc in 3^rd marked st ; dc in each dc till 4^th marker ;

5 dc in the 4^th marked st ; dc in dcs till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Now move the markers to the centre st of the newly added 5 dcs at each corner.

The centre stitch is the 3^rd st (i.e centre of this 5 st increase) is our new corner / marked st.

You will also see how our oval start has slowly started taking on proper corners, and a rectangular shape.

Round 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ; dc in the each dc till 1^st marker ; 7 dc in the next dc (marked st) ; dc in each dc till 2^nd marker ; 7 dc in 2^nd marked st ; dc in each dc till 3^rd marker ; 7 dc in 3^rd marked st ; dc in each dc till 4^th marker ; 7 dc in the 4^th marked st ; dc in dcs till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Now move the markers to the centre st of the newly added 7 dcs at each corner.

Round 5 - 15 : Rep Round 4. Remember to keep moving your markers up.

The picture below shows you what we’re constructing here. So each increase will make your wallet larger in both length and widths. You do not need to work till Round 15 – it all depends on how large you want this wallet.

Once you’re happy with your wallet sizing, fasten off and weave in ends.

So your question .. what is a good size to stop at ?

This rectangular piece that you’re creating will be folded 1/3^rd - so the bottom 2/3^rd bit will be the lower part of the wallet, and the top 1/3^rd will constitute the flap. Now this is a general idea – working on this basic idea, play with the length you want for your flap, thereby altering the size of your wallet.

FANCY FLAP STRAP :

Here are the instructions for that little strap that is on top of the flap.. and I mulled over to figure out what to call this bit.. so we get the fancy flap strap !

So our flap has just three small row / rounds. Depending on how long you want your strap, you will start with that length / number of fsc. You will then follow instructions below. Now for convenience, I am going to write instructions as per the chart below, and the designer has started with 7 sts here. Please remember that you do not need to start with just 7 sts though.

Start with as many fsc as required for the length of your flap strap.

Row / Round 1 : dc in the 1^st fdc and each fdc till the last dc ; 5 dc in the last dc TURN (and working on the underside of the fdc chain just made) ; dc in each fdc till the last fdc ; 4 fdc in that last fdc (which is also the 1^st dc you’ve made). Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

In this round, we will increase by 4 sc at each end. So please mark two ends of the 5 dc we’ve just added. Now we will increase in the 2^nd and 4^th dc’s in this 5-dc set at each corner. So please mark these two dc’s now.

Round 2 : sc in the 1^st dc and each dc till the marked dc ; 2 sc in each of the marked dc ; sc in each dc till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 3 : sc in the 1^st sc and each dc till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Attach this flap to the top of your wallet. Then line your wallet, attach a zipper if you want (inside) and you’re good to go.

a) How to line the bag : View the link below to see how to easily line your handbag. http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/

b) Easiest I-cord : Check out this video for a really easy I-cord at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_AQ9m0QeZI

c) How to attach a zipper : Check this link at http://frogknitting.blogspot.se/2013/08/att-sy-i-dragkedjor-installing-zippers.html?m=1

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