DIAMOND POTLI BAG
I’m
off .. yet again on my swingin' swag / potli bag quest. My earlier projects have been a superb
success and my phone has not stopped ringing.. and I am getting orders and
requests as I write .. I am one happy camper (or crafter !), as you can see.
This blog has video tutorials for all stitches used.
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As
always, I will give you the pattern as charted, and then give you ideas to
throw in the beads for a little bling and you have a lovely beaded bag for an
evening out.. or just to carry your mobile phone and keys. The beauty of this bag is that you can make
it in just about any size you want.
Don't you think that the top bit looks oh, so beautiful and flower-like?
We will start our little potli bag from the base and work up to the top – so no drama here.. let’s just start with this cute lil’ bag.
Inspired
by this free photo tutorial I found on the internet, here are my notes and few
additions to this lovely design.
Materials used : polyester purse yarn in cones , with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; stitch markers ; embroidery needle.
The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Skill level : Intermediate. This pattern uses triple crochet and
combinations thereof.
Stitches used :
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
How to add beads : Check this video at https://youtu.be/EcpgMgBox8I
How to work with beads in crochet : Check out this video at https://youtu.be/yanbAnF_pr0
How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to carry your yarn along when working with two colours.
View it at https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s)
: Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc
: Double crochet sp :
Space
sl-st
: Slip stitch ch
: Chain
st(s)
: Stitch(es) hk
: Hook
yo
: Yarn Over
trc
: Triple / Treble crochet
trc
2-tog : Triple crochet 2-together
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
As
usual, before we head off into our project, let’s take a quick look at what
we’re working on today. For our potli /
swag bag, we’re going to start with a circular base and then work on a small
edge (optional) as we finish our base.
We will then continue working in rounds for the top / sides of our
bag.
We
will work our complete project in rounds.
You
can add beads into your project at any time.
I have not added in any beads, but here’s what I suggest (if you want to
add beads in). Work a small swatch with
just the pattern for the ‘sides / top’ of the bag, and calculate where you want
your beads. One pattern repeat for the
sides will also give you the ‘length’ that you’re gaining, so you will be able
to calculate how many rows of shelled pattern you need to reach the top, and
accordingly you will be able to work in how many beads you need.
As
always, please do add in more beads than you need or calculate for .. jus in
case.
Right
then.. let’s now waste any more time.
Part
1 : Base of the Potli bag
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Start
with a magic circle and 10 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Pull lightly to close the
magic circle.
You
can work with sc / hdc or dc for the rounds.
It does not matter which stitch you choose, as we are only interested in
reaching the diameter needed for your base.
I
always feel that using the smallest stitch (sc) gives it a neat flat finish,
but it does take long to complete. The
hdc is a nice fattish stitch that gives the base dimension and also goes
through a little faster.
Remember though that I am writing this pattern for working with hdc, so if you decide to use any other stitch, you will need to work as many rounds as needed for your project accordingly.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Round 1 :
2 hdc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 2 :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
*hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ;
hdc in the last hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 3 :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next 2 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
*hdc in the next 2 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ;
hdc in the last 2 hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 4 : (Non-increase round) :
hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Round 5 : (Increase round) :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
*hdc in the next 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*.
Rep
*to* till end ;
hdc in the last 3 hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.
Rep
Rounds 4 and 5, increasing by 10 sts every alternate round, ending with Round
5, till you have a base of the size you want for your bag.
Please
check that your base is sitting flat, and if not, please work more increase
rounds in between the non-increase rounds as needed. This all depends on the thickness of yarn
& hook being used as well as the tension with which you crochet – so feel
free to tweak away. Just remember that
then number of stitches or the stitch count needs to be kept constant.. the type of stitch
is yours to tweak!
Remember also that
increasing every alternate round means that your bag base grows slower.
So
if you want a faster diameter growth, then work the increase round every
round. This will also give a flatter,
softer finish for the base. See what
works best for you with your yarn.
Ensure that when you are done, you have a stitch count in multiples of 10
Last base round : In this last round for the base, sc
in back loops only (blo), so that we get an edge that will not just look good,
but also hold the bag base down flat.
If
you do not want the edge and are happy with the base size here, please end with
Round 4 or 5 and start with the pattern for the sides / top.
Part
2 : Main body pattern for sides / top of potli bag
For
the top / sides of our bag, we will continue without any increase.
For
convenience, I am going to re-number our rounds starting once again from
1. Please do not confuse these
rounds with the numbers above.
For all
instructions that follow here, they are meant for this top/side section of your
bag only.
Here
are a few ideas before we start on the shelled pattern for the sides. If you decide to work in one colour all
through, then you just work without any yarn change.
If
you decide to change colours, then you will work with the yarn color change(s)
given below. I am giving you an idea of
how to change colours. What you do (or
what I have done) is totally up to you ;) .
Create and enjoy!
MC is the Main Colour, and CC is the Contrast Color.
I
have not used two colours, but I think that it will look superb too.
We
will use a ch-3 picot in our pattern, which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3rd
ch from hk).
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
dc in the 1st 5 hdc ;
*(ch
3, sk next 2 hdc, sc + picot in the next hdc) ;
ch 3, sk next 2 hdc, dc in the next 5 hdc* ;
ch 3, sk next 2 hdc, dc in the next 5 hdc* ;
rep
*to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
In
our following round, we will use a trc 2-tog.
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
Triple / Treble crochet 2-tog : trc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 3 times. One trc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0y4BbgDTbs shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease
And this video shows you how to use it a decorative stitch.
So
for our pattern, we are going to create a diamond, and for that the trc 2-tog
will be worked over the left and right hand side dc’s at the same time.
So one leg of your trc 2-tog will be worked
over the dc on one side, you will then skip the ch-3 sps and sc/picot in the
middle and work the 2nd leg of the trc 2-tog over the dc on the
other side. Easy enough right? Just
*sounds* complicated.
For
convenience, let us call this our Special trc 2-tog
Round 2 :
(Using MC) : dc in the 1st 5 dc ;
*ch
2, skipping the ch-3 sps and the sc/picot, Special trc 2-tog over the same
last dc, and the next dc ;
ch 2, dc in the same dc (as the one just used
for the Special trc 2-tog leg) ;
dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep
*to* till end.
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Note
:
Your last Special trc 2-tog will join up with your 1st dc.
Here's a video to show you how we work this stitch for the Diamond Potli bag.
In case the video does not come on, please visit https://youtu.be/D9jTc9OaFZ0
and a photo tutorial as well..
If
you want to use two colours, change to your Contrast Colour or CC now.
Please
check the top of this blog for the many “how to” links for when working with
two colours of yarn.
If
not changing colours, please continue with pattern, ignoring the (Using CC)
bit.
We
are now going to move our diamonds such that they will now come in the
centre of the 5-dc set of the first 2 rounds.
Round 3 :
(Using CC) :
sl-st in the 1st 2 dc ; sc + picot in the next dc ;
[ch 3, sk 2 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc over the next Special trc 2-tog ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
[ch 3, sk 2 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc over the next Special trc 2-tog ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
*ch
3, sk next 2 dc, sc + picot in the next dc ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep
*to* till end ;
ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc (+ picot).
Round 4 :
(Using CC) :
sl-st past the 1st 3 ch ;
*dc
in the next 5 dc ;
ch 2, skipping the ch-3 sps and the sc/picot, Special trc
2-tog over the same last dc, and the next dc ;
ch 2, dc in the same
dc (as the one just used for the Special trc 2-tog leg) ;
dc in the next 4 dc*
rep
*to* till end ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
If
you had changed colours earlier, you will need to change back to the Main
Colour (MC) now.
Once
again, we’re *moving* our diamonds, and they will come back on top of those we
created in Rounds 1 and 2.
Round 5 :
(Using MC) :
sl-st past the 1st 5 dc ;
2
dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc over the next Special trc 2-tog ;
2 dc in the next
ch-2 sp ;
*ch
3, sk next 2 dc, sc + picot in the next dc ;
[ch 3, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc over the next Special trc 2-tog ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp]* ;
rep
*to* till end ;
ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Round 6 :
(Using MC) :
dc in the 1st 5 dc ;
[ch 2, skipping the ch-3 sps and
the sc/picot, Special trc 2-tog over the same last dc, and the next dc]
;
*ch
2, dc in the same dc (as the one just used for the Special trc 2-tog
leg) ;
dc in the next 4 dc ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep
*to* till end ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
And
just like that you have completed one pattern repeat.
Isn’t this just beautiful?
Rep
Rounds 3 – 6 till your potli bag is the length you need, ending with a Round 4
or 6.
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
Now
rather than have a ‘hole’ row to thread in our I-cord, I have just used the
spaces between the shells, such that these shells then stick out on top and
look really neat. Instead of working
with the last round, you could decide to slip your cord around the shells in
the row one under.
Border Round : For the border, I've worked a slightly different pattern.
I have worked a 'shell' over each 5-dc set and Special trc 2-tog.
The shell stitch I've used is (3 dc ; picot, 3 dc) all in the same stitch or ch-sp
The picot I've used is a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3rd ch from hk)
For this border pattern, sc in the 1st dc (of the 5-dc set) ;
*sk the next dc, Shell st in the next dc ;
sk the next dc, sc in the next dc ;
Shell st on top of the next Special trc 2-tog ;
sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Here's a video on how I've worked the Shell border for this diamond potli bag.
Here's a video on how I've worked the Shell border for this diamond potli bag.
In case this video does not come on, please visit https://youtu.be/wju3DFJobJ8
Neat tweak : To increase the length of your flower petals along this border, play with the lengths of stitches.. so if you want a longer petal, work your shell using trc instead of dc.
Bling it up just a bit more by adding a few beads (instead of the picot) in the middle of each shell and watch it sparkle as you swing it along.
Go ahead and have fun.
Finishing :
So
we make our I-cord, thread it into the spaces ; line our bag and voila!
I
also chose to add a few beads on that last round (using a sewing needle) as I
felt it just need a little more ;)
So if you too decide to work in a bead, add the bead where we have added the picot.
Either string in the beads in advance, or add the beads as you go.
Check out the video below on how we work with beads.
How to add beads : Check this video at https://youtu.be/EcpgMgBox8I
How to work with beads in crochet : Check out this video at https://youtu.be/yanbAnF_pr0
We’re
ready to show off this lovely creation too.
a) How to line the bag : View the link below to see how to easily line your handbag. http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/
b) Easiest I-cord : Check out this video for a really easy I-cord at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_AQ9m0QeZI
c) How to attach a zipper : Check this link at http://frogknitting.blogspot.se/2013/08/att-sy-i-dragkedjor-installing-zippers.html?m=1
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