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Thursday, 11 May 2017

DIAMOND POTLI BAG

free crochet potli bag pattern

free crochet bag pattern


free crochet bag pattern

DIAMOND POTLI BAG 

I’m off .. yet again on my swingin swag / potli bag quest.  My earlier projects have been a superb success and my phone has not stopped ringing.. and I am getting orders and requests as I write .. I am one happy camper (or crafter !), as you can see.

As always, I will give you the pattern as charted, and then give you ideas to throw in the beads for a little bling and you have a lovely beaded bag for an evening out.. or just to carry your mobile phone and keys.  The beauty of this bag is that you can make it in just about any size you want. 

Don't you think that the top bit looks oh, so beautiful and flower-like?

So what’s a Potli ?  {poTali} = SWAG is the Hindi equivalent for Swag bag.

We will start our little potli bag from the base and work up to the top – so no drama here.. let’s just start with this cute lil’ bag.

Inspired by this free photo tutorial I found on the internet, here are my notes and few additions to this lovely design.

Materials used : Polyester (metallic) purse yarn in cones  , with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
This yarn has a 4-ply or sport ply thickness, but do check gauge if you’re using a different yarn.

Skill level : Intermediate.  This pattern uses triple crochet and combinations thereof.

Stitches used :

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

How to crochet the treble / triple 2-together (trc 2-tog) : If you’ve worked a dc 2-tog, then this is a lot like that, just that you work it with a trc.
*yo two times, insert hk into st ; yo and pull up a lp ; [yo, draw through 2 lps] ; rep [to] once ; rep *to* once more ; yo and draw through all 3 lps on hk.  One trc 2-tog complete.


How to carry your yarn along when using more than one colour :  http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-carry-yarn-in-crochet.html


How to make a rounded cord for the handle : View the video link below for a really simple way to make a rounded cord handle for your handbag.  http://vimeo.com/88972371

How to make an I-cord : A neat way to make an I-cord in this video by June at http://www.planetjune.com/blog/how-to-crochet-an-i-cord/

How to line the bag : View the link below to see how to easily line your handbag. http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/

How to add beads in crochet : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MbLCuyfv-M


Abbreviations used :  (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                   sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                        sp : Space                                 
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                 ch : Chain  
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                 hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over 
trc : Triple / Treble crochet
trc 2-tog : Triple crochet 2-together                                           

As usual, before we head off into our project, let’s take a quick look at what we’re working on today.  For our potli / swag bag, we’re going to start with a circular base and then work on a small edge (optional) as we finish our base.  We will then continue working in rounds for the top / sides of our bag. 
We will work our complete project in rounds.

You can add beads into your project at any time.  I have not added in any beads, but here’s what I suggest (if you want to add beads in).  Work a small swatch with just the pattern for the ‘sides / top’ of the bag, and calculate where you want your beads.  One pattern repeat for the sides will also give you the ‘length’ that you’re gaining, so you will be able to calculate how many rows of shelled pattern you need to reach the top, and accordingly you will be able to work in how many beads you need.
As always, please do add in more beads than you need or calculate for .. jus in case. 

Right then.. let’s now waste any more time.

Part 1 : Base of the Potli bag

Start with a magic circle and 10 sc in that circle.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. Pull lightly to close the magic circle.

You can work with sc / hdc or dc for the rounds.  It does not matter which stitch you choose, as we are only interested in reaching the diameter needed for your base. 
I always feel that using the smallest stitch (sc) gives it a neat flat finish, but it does take long to complete.  The hdc is a nice fattish stitch that gives the base dimension and also goes through a little faster.

Remember though that I am writing this pattern for working with hdc, so if you decide to use any other stitch, you will need to work as many rounds as needed for your project accordingly.

Round 1 : 2 hdc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 2 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ; 
*hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*. 
Rep *to* till end ; hdc in the last hdc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 3 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ; 
*hdc in the next 2 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*. 
Rep *to* till end ; hdc in the last 2 hdc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 4 : (Non-increase round) : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 5 :  (Increase round) : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ; 
*hdc in the next 3 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*. 
Rep *to* till end ; hdc in the last 3 hdc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Rep Rounds 4 and 5, increasing by 10 sts every alternate round, ending with Round 5, till you have a base of the size you want for your bag.

Please check that your base is sitting flat, and if not, please work more increase rounds in between the non-increase rounds as needed.  This all depends on the thickness of yarn & hook being used as well as the tension with which you crochet – so feel free to tweak away.  Just remember that then number of stitches or the stitch count needs to be kept constant.. the type of stitch is yours to tweak!

Remember also that increasing every alternate round means that your bag base grows slower
So if you want a faster diameter growth, then work the increase round every round.  This will also give a flatter, softer finish for the base.  See what works best for you with your yarn.

Last  base round : In this last round for the base, sc in back loops only (blo), so that we get an edge that will not just look good, but also hold the bag base down flat.
If you do not want the edge and are happy with the base size here, please end with Round 4 or 5 and start with the pattern for the sides / top.



Part 2 : Main body pattern for sides / top of potli bag



For the top / sides of our bag, we will continue without any increase. 

For convenience, I am going to re-number our rounds starting once again from 1.  Please do not confuse these rounds with the numbers above.  For all instructions that follow here, they are meant for this top/side section of your bag only.

Here are a few ideas before we start on the shelled pattern for the sides.  If you decide to work in one colour all through, then you just work without any yarn change.

If you decide to change colours, then you will work with the yarn color change(s) given below.  I am giving you an idea of how to change colours.  What you do (or what I have done) is totally up to you ;) .  Create and enjoy!

MC is the Main Colour, and CC is the Contrast Color.
I have not used two colours, but envisage that this will look superb too.

We will use a ch-3 picot in our pattern, which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3rd ch from hk).

Round 1 : (Using MC) : dc in the 1st 5 hdc ;
*(ch 3, sk next 2 hdc, sc + picot in the next hdc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 hdc, dc in the next 5 hdc* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

In our following round, we will use a trc 2-tog.  Please check the top of this blog for a “how to” if needed.

So for our pattern, we are going to create a diamond, and for that the trc 2-tog will be worked over the left and right hand side dc’s at the same time.  So one leg of your trc 2-tog will be worked over the dc on one side, you will then skip the ch-3 sps and sc/picot in the middle and work the 2nd leg of the trc 2-tog over the dc on the other side.  Easy enough right? Just *sounds* complicated.

For convenience, let us call this our Special trc 2-tog
Round 2 : (Using MC) : dc in the 1st 5 dc ;
*ch 2, skipping the ch-3 sps and the sc/picot, Special trc 2-tog over the same last dc, and the next dc ; ch 2, dc in the same dc (as the one just used for the Special trc 2-tog leg) ; dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Note : Your last Special trc 2-tog will join up with your 1st dc.






If you want to use two colours, change to your Contrast Colour or CC now.
Please check the top of this blog for the many “how to” links for when working with two colours of yarn.

If not changing colours, please continue with pattern, ignoring the (Using CC) bit.

We are now going to move our diamonds such that they will now come in the centre of the 5-dc set of the first 2 rounds.

Round 3 : (Using CC) : sl-st in the 1st 2 dc ; sc + picot in the next dc ; 
[ch 3, sk 2 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; 
dc over the next Special trc 2-tog ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;
*ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc + picot in the next dc ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till end ; ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc (+ picot).

Round 4 : (Using CC) : sl-st past the 1st 3 ch ;
*dc in the next 5 dc ; ch 2, skipping the ch-3 sps and the sc/picot, Special trc 2-tog over the same last dc, and the next dc ; ch 2, dc in the same dc (as the one just used for the Special trc 2-tog leg) ; dc in the next 4 dc*
rep *to* till end ; ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

If you had changed colours earlier, you will need to change back to the Main Colour (MC) now.
Once again, we’re *moving* our diamonds, and they will come back on top of those we created in Rounds 1 and 2.

Round 5 : (Using MC) : sl-st past the 1st 5 dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc over the next Special trc 2-tog ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc + picot in the next dc ; [ch 3, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc over the next Special trc 2-tog ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp]* ;
rep *to* till end ; ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 6 : (Using MC) : dc in the 1st 5 dc ; [ch 2, skipping the ch-3 sps and the sc/picot, Special trc 2-tog over the same last dc, and the next dc] ;
*ch 2, dc in the same dc (as the one just used for the Special trc 2-tog leg) ; dc in the next 4 dc ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till end ; ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

And just like that you have completed one pattern repeat.  Isn’t this just beautiful?

Rep Rounds 3 – 6 till your potli bag is the length you need, ending with a Round 4 or 6.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Now rather than have a ‘hole’ row to thread in our I-cord, I have just used the spaces between the shells, such that these shells then stick out on top and look really neat.  Instead of working with the last round, you could decide to slip your cord around the shells in the row one under.



Border Round :  For the border, I've worked a slightly different pattern.  I have worked a 'shell' over each 5-dc set and Special trc 2-tog.
The shell stitch I've used is (3 dc ; picot, 3 dc) all in the same stitch or ch-sp
The picot I've used is a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3rd ch from hk)

For this border pattern, sc in the 1st dc (of the 5-dc set) ; 
*sk the next dc, Shell st in the next dc ; sk the next dc, sc  in the next dc ; Shell st on top of the next Special trc 2-tog ; sc in the next dc* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Neat tweak :  To increase the length of your flower petals along this border, play with the lengths of stitches.. so if you want a longer petal, work your shell using trc instead of dc.  
Bling it up just a bit more by adding a few beads (instead of the picot) in the middle of each shell and watch it sparkle as you swing it along.
Go ahead and have fun.

Finishing :
So we make our I-cord, thread it into the spaces ; line our bag and voila!
Check the top of this blog for lining “how to”.

I also chose to add a few beads on that last round (using a sewing needle) as I felt it just need a little more ;)

We’re ready to show off this lovely creation too.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns J

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If you’ve liked this pattern, I would appreciate if you could share my blog when you make your creation.  Please also give due credit to the original designer and my inspiration.  Thank you.

Have a great day and see you soon. J

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