Thursday, 25 May 2017

POP CORN TOP

free crochet top pattern


POP CORN TOP


Sometime last year, I used this pattern to make a yoke, and at that time I suggested that we can make this into a top as well.. I thought today was the day I made the top! ;)

Come along and work with me as I work on this pattern.

Materials used : Today I’ve used 1 ball of our superb Indian Red Rose knitting cotton yarn & just under a ball of the lovely Aunt Lydia bamboo viscose yarn,  with a 2.5 mm crochet hook.

If you wish to purchase any of these yarns online via Amazon, please click on the convenient link on the right hand side of this blog that reads CLICK HERE to buy yarns online.  Cheers.

 Size made : I’ve made this for a bust size 34” (S-M)

Please note that as always, you can make this pattern for any size.  All you need to do is read through alllllllll my detailed instructions and get your stitch count right!

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                   dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                      ch-sp(s) : chain space(s)
sp(s) : space(s)                                                            rep : Repeat
yo : Yarn over                                                            sk : Skip
lp : Loop                                                                       hk : Hook


Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

Popcorn stitch : work 5 dc in st or ch-sp ; carefully take the loop off the hook and pull it out a bit ;  slip your hook into the 1st dc, pull that loop (that you just dropped) through ; yo and draw through both loops.  One popcorn stitch made.
A great video for this stitch at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2xBe_R8UWI

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

How to join : So the regular methods used to join granny squares works for joining of the sides and shoulders of our project as well.  Here are two methods.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.
So one way we can make this pattern, is from the bottom up.  In that case, we will start with a fdc row and then work our way up the sides to the armholes and then the neck of this top.
Front and back pattern will be the same – so you will make two of the same, and then attach the shoulders and sides.
Around the armhole and probably around the base of your top, you could run a row or picots, if you feel like it.

free crochet top pattern

Alternatively, what you can also do is to work a yoke part all the way to the shoulders, and then come back to the start row to work the lower part for the top afterwards. 

Just for kicks, this is what I am going to do… So I’ve started with a row of fdc from around chest, work up to the neck and shoulders, and then come back to this start fdc row and work down to the length of the top.

The beauty of this pattern is that the pattern works both ways – i.e What I mean is that as we are using popcorn stitch, one cannot tell if the pattern is being worked from the yoke up to the shoulders, and then working the lower portion of the top – or whether you are working the pattern all the way from the bottom.  The only difference is that you will have a row of fdc around the chest.  As I am working with two slightly different coloured yarns, I thought having a yoke in one colour then defined it beautifully –
Of course it also adds to my design panache. ;)

So now that you have two ideas .. you can start either way.

The one question that seems to come up very often after I post a blog is “How do I make it  “such n such” size?”.  So two ways to do that (sorry for the tongue-in-cheek)
a)    You read this blog especially the line that reads stitch count repeat and follow those instructions ; or
b)    Call me and I’ll make it for you J

On a serious note, the stitch count represents the width of this garment – so using the stitch count, ensure get the width you need either for the round measure at the base of your top or the largest part of the upper body, whichever is more – so eg your bust size is more than your low waist measure, then you start with the bust measurements.  Easy enough ? So movin on..





Our stitch count repeat is 12

Start : with fdc in multiples of 12 + 1 which will be half the round measure for the lower part of your top or the half round measure for round chest, whichever you decide.

Row 1 : dc in 1st dc ; *ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

In the following row, we’ll use our Popcorn st.  Check under “stitches used” for a “how to”.

Row 2 : dc in 1st dc ; [ch 2, dc in the next dc] ;
*Popcorn-st in the next ch-2 sp ; rep [to] 3 times* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

In the following row, we’ll basically repeat Row 1, ignoring all the Popcorn-sts and working dc’s in all the dc’s all the way to the end.

Row 3 : dc in 1st dc ; *ch 2, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Our following Row 4, is basically the same as Row 2.  
The only difference is that we’re going to work our Popcorn sts in between the earlier popcorn sts.

Row 4 : dc in 1st dc ; [ch 2, dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 2 times ;
*Popcorn-st in the next ch-2 sp ; rep [to] 3 times* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 5 : dc in 1st dc ; *ch 2, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.
  
And just like that we’ve completed one repeat. Just how easy is this pattern , right?

So our repeat rows are Rows 2- 5.
The beauty of this top is that it has no armhole shaping. So continue this pattern all the way to the neckline where we will meet again for that shaping.

So now we’ve reached the neckline, fold your work in half, and decide the two sides for your neckline.  Place markers at these points.

Now our pattern is simple enough, so basically, you continue with this easy 4-line pattern repeat from the armhole edge to the neckline marker and back , working back and forth till your work reaches the shoulder level.
Once you’ve reached the shoulder at one side, you will then go back to the other marker, and work till the shoulder for that side as well.

This then completes one side of your top and you will mirror or work these rows for the other side of your top as well.

Once you’ve completed both sides of your top, you will attach the shoulders and sides.

Neckline and armhole edging :
For a neat finish, a good edging is a must.  So you could either run a round of sc followed by a round of hdc or dc all around the neckline and armhole, or go straight with a round of dc around the armhole and neckline edgings.

For a little showy finish, you could work a picot every third stitch as well.  If you so decide (to work the picots) then ensure that you have a multiple of 3 (if every third stitch) or as required for neatness.
For a “how to do the picot” , check under “stitches used”.

free crochet top pattern

OR you can work a tiny little sleeve.  IF you decide to work a sleeve, then when you work a round of sc all around the armhole, ensure that you have a multiple of 12 stitches all around. You will then work the same pattern as you have for the body, which you will have down pat by now. The only difference is that you will join at the end of each round with a sl-st and work in rounds.

Once again, you may wish to make a longer sleeve and you may.  Just continue working this pattern all the way down to the length needed.  Remember that you will need to measure your  round arm and see which part of the arm is the largest measure.  You will need to ensure that the round that you work is the largest round arm measure.  

You may also decide to end off with a round of picot (as I have), and there are links given at the top of this blog on "how to work a picot stitch".  

When done you will fasten off and weave in all ends.

Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few other yokes made, so check these out











































and here are my earlier yoke patterns