I have been really lucky in receiving really
lovely gifts of yarn off late. This was
my recent gift - the lovely Aunt Lydia 2-ply cotton yarn, that my friend gifted
me on her return from USA.
I’ve been
enjoying making some absolutely lovely stuff with all my (gifted) yarn, and if you’ve
been following my blogs, you know what I’m talking about.
If you’ve just joined
me, well then go through all my blogs and you’re in for a lovely surprise.
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For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is similar in thickness to our Laura knitting cotton.
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
I'd say you choose a yarn that will have a good fall - and will fall well with the material you are attaching the tape lace onto. So if the material of your top is really light, it follows that you should choose a light yarn.
Note also that the yarn I used is thick - so you may not need as much when you are using a lighter yarn.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Size
made : I’ve made this for a bust size 34”, but you can make this to suit any body type.
Stitches used :
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at
https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at
https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience, I've added video tutorials of the stitches just before you need to use them as well.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Quick analysis of what we’re going
to do here today.
We’re working this pattern from the
bottom up.
We will start with a fdc row
and then work our way up the sides to the armholes and then the neck of this
top.
Front and back pattern will be the
same – so you will make two of the same, and then attach the shoulders and
sides.
Around the armhole and probably
around the base of your top, you could run a row or picots, if you feel like
it.
So as you can see, this is a really
easy one – let’s get started.
So if you decide to make this a yoke, decide how long you want it, and then start with the round measurement for the bust.
If you. are making this a full top, you need to keep your round bust, round waist and round hip (if you're making the top nearly reaching your hips) measurement.
You will then choose the largest measure for this top - so if hip length and hips are the largest measure, you need to work half hip measurement for front and back respectively. Remember that you need to keep the stitch count in mind as well.
As we're working on one front and one back, you will work with half the round measurement per side.
After all my detailed instructions, the one question that seems to come
up very often after I post a blog is “How do I make it “such n such” size?”. So two ways to do that (sorry for the
tongue-in-cheek)
a) You read this blog especially the line that reads stitch count
repeat and follow those instructions ; or
b) Call me and I’ll make it for you
On a serious note, the stitch count
represents the width of this garment – so using the stitch count, ensure get
the width you need either for the round measure at the base of your top
or the largest part of the upper body, whichever is more – so for e.g. your bust size
is more than your low waist measure, then you use the bust
measurements for the start row.. Easy enough ? So moving on..
FRONT AND BACK
Make two similar pieces for front and back
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial
https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Our stitch count is in multiples of 12 + 1
Start : with fdc in multiples of 12 + 1 for half your bust or half waist measurement. Turn.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Row 1 : dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the
next dc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
In the following row, we’ll use
our Popcorn st.
For this stitch, I've used a dc 4-tog.
Depending on the thickness of your yarn, you can work a dc 3-tog, dc 4-tog or dc 5-tog.
Double crochet 4-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/_B0-ye0cClU Double crochet 5-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/5806EIpgcV8
Row 2 : dc in 1st dc ;
[ch 2, dc in the next dc] ;
*Popcorn-st in the next ch-2 sp
;
rep [to] 3 times* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
In the following row, we’ll
basically repeat Row 1, ignoring all the Popcorn-sts and working dc’s in all
the dc’s all the way to the end.
Row 3 : dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 2, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Our following Row 4, is
basically the same as Row 2.
The only
difference is that we’re going to work our Popcorn sts in between the earlier
popcorn sts.
Row 4 : dc in 1st dc ;
[ch 2, dc in the next dc] ;
rep
[to] 2 times ;
*Popcorn-st in the next ch-2 sp
;
rep [to] 3 times* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 5 : dc in 1st dc ;
*ch 2, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
And just like that we’ve
completed one repeat.
Just how easy is this pattern , right?
So our repeat rows are Rows 2-
5.
The beauty of this top is that
it has no armhole shaping.
So continue this pattern all the way to the neckline
where we will meet again for that shaping.
So now we’ve reached the
neckline, fold your work in half, and decide the two sides for your
neckline.
Place markers at these points.
Now our pattern is simple
enough, so basically, you continue with this easy 4-line pattern repeat from
the armhole edge to the neckline marker and back , working back and forth till
your work reaches the shoulder level.
Once you’ve reached the
shoulder at one side, you will then go back to the other marker, and work till
the shoulder for that side as well.
This then completes one side of
your top and you will mirror or work these rows for the other side of your top
as well.
Once you’ve completed both
sides of your top, you will attach the shoulders and sides.
Neckline and armhole
edging :
For a neat finish, a good
edging is a must.
So you could either
run a round of sc followed by a round of hdc or dc all around the neckline and
armhole, or go straight with a round of dc around the armhole and neckline edgings. Check the top of this blog for sc and hdc, especially for how I start my sc and hdc rows in a neat way.
For a little showy finish, you could work a picot every third stitch as
well. If you so decide (to work the
picots) then ensure that you have a multiple of 3 (if every third stitch) or as
required for neatness.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
You could choose to end with a round of reverse single crochet or crab stitch, if you do not want the fiddly picot stitch round.
Fasten off and weave in all
ends.
Give yourself a big pat on the
back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different
from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it,
I’m sure you’ll agree.
And that’s done.. yet another
project brilliantly executed !
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come
back right here for more freebie patterns
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
I have a few other yokes made,
so check these out
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