Wednesday, 10 June 2015

LOVELY SHELLED GIRL’S DRESS





LOVELY SHELLED GIRL’S DRESS

After a spate of ladies clothes, here’s something really cute for a little lady.  

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Cheers.  Enjoy

I’m attaching page links for sizing of the yoke, one of the major deciding factors on which size you’re making.  Using that, you can make this dress for almost any sized child.. Howzatt?


As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.


The inspiration

Difficulty level : Intermediate crochet skills

Materials used : Today I’ve used a light 3 ply acrylic yarn,  with a 3 mm crochet hook

Abbreviations used :
dc : Double crochet                  ch-sp : chain space
ch : chain                                        rep : Repeat                                                      
sp : space                                                                      
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together
 fsc : Foundation single crochet     

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA 

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.
Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook).  For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook). 
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Instructions : Using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  
We start this lovely dress from the yoke and work in rounds.  
We will then divide for armhole, and continue working the skirt portion of our dress, once again, in rounds.  I’d suggest that you work the skirt portion depending on the length you wish and the gauge of the yarn – and not necessarily on the number of repeats shown in the picture or this write up.
The designer has worked the pattern in two colours – I just preferred a single colour for this lovely creation – so now you can see which one works best for you.

Right.. so let’s get started.

YOKE :
Start with fsc and with the number of stitches you need for the person intended
Check the yoke chart links on the top of this blog.

Round 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; 
(ch 1, dc in the next 3 fsc) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
*ch 3, dc in next 3 dc ; 
rep (to) 5 times* ; 
rep *to* 2 times ; 
ch 3, dc in last 2 dc.  
Join with sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; 
3 dc in the same ch-1 sp ; 
(ch 1, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep (to) 3 times till corner ; 
3 dc in the corner ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 3, 3 dc in the corner ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) 6 times ; 
ch 3, 3 dc in corner ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* 2 times ;
ch 3, 3 dc in last corner ch-3 sp ; 
ch 1 and join with an sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 3 - 6 : Rep Round 2, adding one 3 dc set in each end of the corners. 
Please follow chart below.  
If making this dress for a larger size, please continue yoke increases according to length needed for yoke (and not just for 6 rounds).

Before you work that last round, please read the note below for the body of the dress.

Our pattern repeat count for the first round of the body of dress is 8. 
Now we will fold the yoke down ; the side sections of the yoke will become the armhole and the front and back are clearly now defined.  
Now count the number of stitches you have, and ensure that you will be able to get them neatly divided by the repeat count.  
Depending on how much of a flare or gathered a dress you desire, increase stitches evenly within the front and back sections of the dress, and add a chain length from the ch-3 sps that define the two armhole ends.

So in the last round of the yoke, we will add a chain length (for bottom of armhole) from the two corner ch-3 sps each end ; and in the following round (i.e first round of the body part), we will be adding (if needed) stitches along the front and back of the yoke to give you a fuller bodied dress. 



Calculations : Yes this is always the foxing bit of our pattern – so here’s what I’ve done.  I’ve worked one st in every dc, and then 3 sts in the ch-1 sps ; and 2 sts each in the corner ch-3 sps.  
I then worked out how many pattern repeats I wanted for the body section, and accordingly worked out the number of stitches I’d need for the armhole section.  Hope this works for you too. 
The reason I am keeping this general is so that one can work any sized dress using this one general pattern. 

Right then, once done with that, we’ll carry on with the body of our dress

BODY OF DRESS :
In the chart below, the first round has 192 sts, and then to add body the designer has added 48 more to make it 240 sts.  I feel our first addition of 3 sts per ch-1 sp will give us a full enough body, and am working the pattern now according this, without further increases.

Round 1 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 
*ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ; 
ch 2, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around (including in the ch-section under armhole) 
and join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; 
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; 
*ch 3 , sk ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, (2 dc in the next dc ; 
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc)* ; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 
*ch 5 , dc in the same 3rd dc (of that 5 dc set) and next 2 dc ; 
sk both ch-sps and sc, dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
*ch 1 , sk next 2 dc,  dc in the ch-5 sp ; 
(ch 1, dc in the same ch-5 sp) ; 
rep (to)4 times ; 
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; 
dc 3-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; 
*(ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ;  
sk next 2 sc and ch-1 sp,  dc-3 tog in the next ch-1 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; 
dc in the same ch-2 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next dc-3 tog, dc in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with sl-st to the 1st st.





Round 7 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
*2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
*ch 3, sk next 3 dc ; sc in the next 2 dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc , sc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 9 : sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, sc in the same ch-3 sp ;  
*ch 3, sk next 2 sc ; 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next sc , sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sc in the same ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around 
and for that last ch 3, join with dc to the 1st st. 
This ensures that you are just where you need to be.
In case you find this too hard, please work ch 3 and join to the last st.  
Then you will need to sl-st to get to where you need to be.

Round 10 : 2 dc in the 1st ch-sp ; 
ch 3, sc in the same ch-3 sp ;  
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, ( 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc)* ; 
rep *to* all around till the last dc-set ; 
2 dc in the next dc ; 
dc in the last dc 
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 11 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; 
*sk both ch-sps and sc, dc in the next 3 dc ; 
ch 5 , dc in the same 3rd dc (of that 5 dc set) and next 2 dc * ; 
rep *to* all around till last dc-set ; 
dc in the next 3 dc ; 
ch 5 , dc in the same 3rd dc (of that 5 dc set) and next dc 
and join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 12 : sl-st in the 1st dc ; sc in the next 2 dc ; 
*ch 1 , sk next 2 dc,  dc in the ch-5 sp ; 
(ch 1, dc in the same ch-5 sp) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 13 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc 3-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; 
*(ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ;  
sk next 2 sc and ch-1 sp,  dc-3 tog in the next ch-1 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around 
and join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Using rep Rounds 6 – 13 as basic idea, work till you get the dress length you wish. There will be minor changes in where you start the round, but as we’ve worked 13 rounds, you’ll know.
Of course, you also have the chart below to follow up with.







Finishing :  Just for a difference, I added a round of picot around the dress border. 

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