Sweet Nothings Crochet: BEAUTIFUL DIAMOND BABY DRESS

BEAUTIFUL DIAMOND BABY DRESS

This is yet another lovely pattern that I am happily writing off my “to-do” list.. this one though has been there long enough so I am thrilled in ticking it off.

I made this lovely dress for a friend's grand daughter. She's chosen three dresses for the little girl (all of which have or will be shared here on my blog) - and of course, had the cute lil thing 'model' one after the other.. so it was fun at first, and then she just wanted to "keep this one on, mum" .. so in a bit when you see her photos, you'll see what I mean. (lol)

With each new creation, I find that there is something new I can add to my blog .. a new pattern idea or a way to get it done.. and so I’d like to suggest that you first go through my blog to get an idea of what we’re creating and then you can be all prepared and as excited as I am.

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Do check my long Pinterest “to-do” list for little girl’s dresses at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/girls-dresses-to-make/

Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 100 gms of our lovely Indian White Rose ; and 200 gms of Anchor (pink) knitting cotton yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; buttons; press buttons ; satin ribbon ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette ; beads n more

For Indians : You could use Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton , bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Oswal & Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

Size made : For a 2 yr old

You can make this to any size. Size only given for yarn estimation.

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Stitches used :

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/ and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used : Using U.S Terminology

dc : Double crochet sp(s) : Space(s)

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

lp : Loop(s) yo : Yarn Over

sk : Skip sc : Single crochet

trc : Triple / Treble crochet

fsc : Foundation single crochet

ch : Chain

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

I do not claim this to be my pattern , but here are my pattern notes as I make my own original project

So here she is a little worried that there's another dress change and 'free' modelling exercise coming along ..

and here she's plain frustrated that she is right !!

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.

We start with the yoke, working from the chest / waist up.

Now it’s up to you to decide *where* your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the armholes, or you could go way lower to the waist.

I found some charts on this link below, but the write up is not in English.

http://receitadecrocheinfantil.blogspot.in/2015/03/vestido-infantil-em-croche_28.html. Please visit this link for a neat photo tutorial. Thanks.

So let's carry on.

Remember that you need to ensure that you need to work with the largest of these measures (i.e if you want your yoke starting at waist, but the chest measure is larger, then that’s you will use half the chest measure)

We will then work on the skirt portion of our dress off the bottom of the yoke.

Now there is a link for a set of charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference.

You will take a look at the chart for the yokes, and you will work it according to the numbers given for the size on your chart

There is a link given above for chart on square neck sizing.

Check that out before you start, in case you do not have a well-fitted outfit of the child you’re making this for.

And just when you thought we’re going to pick up our hooks, I’m holding you back with more *ideas* and *tweaks*.

As I’ve said before, I love little baby dresses with a little flare and not totally “A”-lined and here’s what I’ve done to add flare in this dress.

When the pattern repeat for the skirt portion is a long/large one, then with the restricted number of stitches for the tiny chest portion (esp for a small baby dress), we need to figure a way to add stitches for the skirt… all on that first round.

Remember here that if you alter the pattern repeat given, you need to calculate the number of stitches you are starting with on your own

a) In the pattern below, it will say “sk … sts” (the … being indicative of number of sts). So you could reduce the gap and reduce the number of sts skipped.

b) You keep the number of sts skipped the same, but instead of using 3 sts for the 3 dc in between, on that first round , you work all 3 dc in the 1^st st

c) You combine both (a) and (b)

All this said, I am going to write the pattern instructions as charted and you can tweak it and create your beautiful dress as you please

Part I : Yoke

We will work one part for the front and one for the back. The only difference for back and front is that there will be an opening for the back, so we will work from the armhole to the centre of the back yoke one side at a time.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start Row 1 : with fsc for half the round waist measure, in multiples of 3 + 1. Turn.

We also have a “V”-st for this part of the yoke which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st fsc ;

*sk next 2 fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till the last 3 fsc ;

sk last 2 fsc, dc in the last fsc. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

“V”-st in the next “V”-st and in each “V”-st till the last dc ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Rep Row 3 till we have the yoke size we need.

So what’s our yoke size? It’s right there on the chart for chest and waist size.

So work the pattern till you reach the armhole, and we will work a small decrease for the armhole shaping.

Armhole decrease Row :

sl-st in the 1^st dc and the 1^st ch-sp of the next “V”-st ;

dc in the next “V”-st ch-1 sp ;

“V”-st in the next “V”-st and in each “V”-st till the 2^nd last “V”-st ;

dc in that “V”-st ch-1 sp. Turn.

Rep Row 3 without further decrease till your project reaches the neckline edge.

Neckline decrease idea :

The neckline decrease is similar to the armhole decrease.

So first you need to decide how deep you want your neckline, and also decide how wide you want it. Place a marker at that point.

You will work back and forth from the armhole edge to the marked “V”-st ch-sp (which is the marked stitch), and you will work a dc in that ch-1 sp.

You will then continue rep of Row 3 till you reach the shoulder level.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rep these instructions for the other side as well as the back.

Remember that for the back, you will be working a small button placket, and so you will decide where you want that placket, and then work back and forth from the armhole to this point and back.

Once you’ve done both the front and the back, attach the shoulders and sides and you have your lovely yoke complete. We will then work our skirt portion in rounds.

If you’ve decided on keeping your dress sleeveless, then ignore this section, and carry on straight to Part 3 for neckline or Part 4 for the skirt.

Part 2 : Sleeves

Re-attach your yarn at the armhole and let’s run a round of sc all around, in multiples of 3. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Unfortunately, with one silly(?) quick movement of my mouse, I deleted ALL my photos as I was working - and am just lucky that my friend obliged with all these photos - else this project would have been terribly drab!

Sorry, but no close-up photos of sleeves or neck... or the cute little heart motif.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around till the last 2 sc ;

ch 1, sk next sc and join with a hdc to the 1^st sc.

You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

Round 2 : sc in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around till the last ch-sp ;

ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1^st sc.

You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

Rounds 3 - 5 : Rep Round 2.

Round 6 : sc in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

You can fasten off here, or continue for the final optional round.

Optional Round 7 : sl-st in the 1^st 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;

*sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in the next sc ; sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 3 : Neckline / collar

Re-attach your yarn at the neckline and let’s run a round of sc all around, in multiples of 3. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

There are two options for the neckline/ collar – a smaller and a larger / longer version.

Collar Option 1 :

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around till the last 2 sc ;

ch 1, sk next sc and join with a hdc to the 1^st sc.

You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

Round 2 : sc in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around till the last ch-sp ;

ch 1, and join with a hdc to the 1^st sc.

You are now in the centre of that last ch-3 sp.

Round 3 : sc in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Collar Option 2 :

Rep Rounds 1 and 2 from Option 1.

Rounds 3 - 5 : Rep Round 2.

Round 6 : sc in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

You can fasten off here, or continue for the final optional round. I say this as it depends on where you ended your sleeve – so if you did one round of 5 dc’s and want a similar ending, you can end here.

See so many options .. & all for one tiny collar

Optional Round 7 : sl-st in the 1^st 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;

*sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in the next sc ; sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 4 : Skirt

We return to the start fsc round and we will now be working on the other side of that round for the skirt portion of our dress.

Even before we start on our skirt, I’m throwing a few ideas out at you.

Remember as I’ve mentioned before that you can always add or remove stitches and ch-sps to add to the flare of a skirt or reduce the laciness of a garment. That said, let’s start with the skirt.

In our dress here, we are starting with a dc 3-tog in the 1^st round, so this is where you will tweak your stitch number.

You must have the stitch count needed, but for more of a flare, you will add more stitches (in multiples of stitch count given)

Our pattern repeat for the skirt portion is 7. So to start, check if you have the right number of stitches, else run a round of sc around the base of the fsc and get the number of stitches we need.

In our very first round, we will start with a dc 3-tog.

Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Round 1 : dc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 2, dc 3-tog over the next 3 sc ;

ch 2, dc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 2 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 2, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 3 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc 3-tog ;

*(ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ;

dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ;

ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 4 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc 3-tog ;

*(ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ;

dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ;

ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 5 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc 3-tog ;

*(ch 2, dc in the next 7 dc) ;

ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 6 : Rep Round 5.

In the following round, we’ll add one diamond along the centre dc 3-tog.

Round 7 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc 3-tog ;

*[ch 2, dc in the same dc 3-tog ;

ch 2, dc 3-tog in the same dc 3-tog] ;

(ch 2, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;

dc in the next 3 dc ; dc 2–tog over the next 2 dc)* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 8 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc 3-tog ;

*[ch 2, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog] ;

(ch 2, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;

dc in the next dc ; dc 2–tog over the next 2 dc) ;

ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

I am sure you see what we’ve done thus far, and that we’ve successfully completed one pattern repeat. We’ve started on our next set of diamonds, and are slowly closing up our first diamond.

So our next round here is a repeat of Round 3 in part, as you’ll see.

Round 9 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc 3-tog ;

*[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ;

dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;

ch 2, dc 3-tog on the next dc 3-tog ;

(ch 2, dc 3–tog over the next 3 sts) ;

ch 2, dc 3-tog on the next dc 3-tog* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 10 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc 3-tog ;

*[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ;

dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;

(ch 2, dc 3-tog on the next dc 3-tog) ;

ch 2, dc on the next dc ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 11 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc 3-tog ;

*[ch 2, dc in the next 7 dc] ;

ch 2, (dc 3-tog on the next dc 3-tog) ;

ch 1, sk next dc, rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 12 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc 3-tog ;

*[ch 2, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;

dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc] ;

ch 2, (dc 3-tog on the next dc 3-tog) ;

ch 2, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 2, rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In the following round, we’ll add one diamond along the centre dc 3-tog.

Round 13 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc 3-tog ;

*(ch 2, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc ;

dc 2–tog over the next 2 dc) ;

[ch 2, dc in the next dc 3-tog ;

ch 2, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog]* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 14 : dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc 3-tog ;

*(ch 2, dc 3-tog over the next 3 sts) ;

ch 2, dc in the next dc 3-tog ;

[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ;

dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;

(ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog)* ;

rep *to* all around,

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

We have completed one pattern repeat and you see what we’re doing here.

We’re working a new diamond pattern in between the existing two diamonds and at the same time, we’re working the ends of two diamonds.

I also know that you have understood the pattern, but I am unable to give you an exact pattern repeat as our start and ends have moved a bit.

So our repeat rounds are Rounds 9 – 14, but remember that the start / ends of the rounds may be a little different. You will figure that out though.

So when do you stop your repeats?

Well as I have decided to go with this pattern repeat all the way till the bottom, you just decide to stop when you get the final length you need for your dress. Easy enough, right?

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 5 : Belt / Headband

free crochet head band pattern, free crochet belt pattern

I can see how confused you look on reading the heading here. Well, what I plan is on making this little strip and then working a row of shells (like we’ve done around the sleeves and collar), and then you can decide on the length of this strip – thereby deciding if you want it as a belt or headband.. or make one each .. How smart is this?? Right??

Check out the blog link (original) given above to see what that designer has whipped up too.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start : with about 6 fdc (which in my case equals about 1”).

This is the width of your belt – and this does not affect the pattern in any way.. so make it as wide or thin as you want. Turn.

You can also decide if you want to use a sc / hdc / dc in each st till end.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fdc and in each fdc till end. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc till end. Turn.

Rep Row 2 till you have a strip that goes around the waist (for a belt) or around the head (for a headband).

Next Row : sc in the 1^st corner dc.

We will now work a border around the side of the belt, so we will turn our work 90˚ and work along the longer side of the belt all the way to the end.

We will then turn our work 90˚ again, and work slip stitches along the 6 fdc end.

We will then turn our work 90˚ again, and work along the second long side of the belt all the way to the end and Turn.

So in our 1^st foundation row here, we need to work an even row of ch-3 sps in multiples of 2. We will work a 5-dc shell (as before) in every alternate ch-3 sp

Last Shell Border Row : sc in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all the way to the end,

only working along the long border and working sl-st along the 6 fdc start row(s).

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Belt & Headband finishing : The designer has neatly attached a ribbon to the two ends of the belt. This is a neat idea even for your headband. Of course, you could opt to add a button at the back of the belt, and for your headband you could add an elastic at the end for ease.

Part 6 : Exquisite little heart

The teeny tiny heart is a darling one and I couldn’t resist making this too.

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs

Start : with a magic circle and we will be adding all these stitches directly into that circle. So pull it lightly to close, but leave a small gap.

Round 1 : ch 3 ; 3 trc ; 3 dc ; ch 1, 1 trc ; ch 1, 3 dc ; 3 trc ; ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

I suggest you leave a longish tail so you can use that to neatly attach this cute lil heart to your garment.

Part 7 : Delightful idea for a button DIY

I should also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a little fabric. I then sewed in the beads onto that little fabric top. The base of the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?

For photos visit https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2016/06/chandras-frilled-dress.html

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ?? It has been a loooonnnnng journey, but oh my gosh.. there are so many beautiful elements here.. and you can use this pattern sheet as a “go-to” for so many more projects. I am totally thrilled !

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

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Have a great day and see you soon.

I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go