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Sunday, 22 March 2015

ZARA’s SKIRT

ZARA’s SKIRT

This is a really lovely skirt that has been asking to get made.. and thankfully someone loved it as much as I did.. so she gets it exclusively made for her. J

Inspired by  one of the wonderful free floating freebies over the net, I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. 

Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Red Rose knitting cotton. This pattern will work well with a lace weight to 2 ply yarn .. and maybe even some 3-ply yarns.. just for the way you’d want it to ‘fall’.. a heavier weight yarn may not fall as well.

Materials used : Red Rose knitting cotton  ~ 300 gms , with a 2.50 mm crochet hook
Size made : Waist : 28” : Length : 18”
Gauge : 3 dc (across) x 1 dc row (high) = ½”

Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                              sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                     sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                            hdc : Half Double Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                           hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                            ch : Chain

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Before we go ahead with the construction, let’s take a look at what we’re going to do here. 
So the pattern is like a rectangle from waist to hip and then there is a small flare that is brought on by the lovely hanging pineapple border.  So if there is a really large difference between waist and hip measures of the recipient (for this skirt), I’d suggest one of two things :
a)    Use a tie-cord to bring the waist together.  This has two advantages – not only do you avoid the fuss and trouble of buttons and a zipper, but you also have a lot more flair for your skirt.  In case you decide you want to do it this way (rather than fitted), then you work your counts for your start line stitches to go around your (or intended) hips.  You will need a line of ‘holes’ in the first few rows to pass your tie cord.. so I’d suggest you do a (dc in 1st st ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 2 dc) all around.  You can then loop your tie cord neatly on completion.
b)    Experienced crafters can work in an even increase every alternate row to give the finished skirt a slight “A”-lined effect followed then by the border.

With this pattern,  I am going to use the lovely fdc to start.  I personally feel that the finish this foundation gives is worth all the work.  However if you wish to start with regular chains, go ahead.

Assuming that we’re all going to work in rounds, I’m going to write this pattern accordingly.  If you decide to have a fitted skirt, and want the first line to work according to waist measurements, you will work the first few rows back and forth, and once you have the measurements you want, you join with sl-st and start working in rounds.

Our pattern repeat is eight.

Start with a  multiple of 8 fdc.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st fdc.

Round 1 :  dc in 1st fdc ; *ch 7, sk next 7 fdc,  5 dc in next fdc* ; rep *to* till end ; 4 more dc in that 1st dc and then join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

From this round on, we’ll have a shell stitch that is (4 dc, ch 1, 4 dc) which will be in the same st or ch-sp.

Round 2 : ch 1, shell st in the next ch-7 sp ; * sk next 5 dc, shell st in the next ch-7 sp * ; 
rep *to* till end ; Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 3 : sl-st till the 1st ch-1 sp ; 5 dc in that 1st ch-1 sp ;
 * ch 7, sk next 8 dc, 5 dc in next ch-1 sp * ; rep *to* till end ; Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 4 : sl-st till the 1st ch-7 sp , shell st in the ch-7 sp ; *sk next 5 dc, shell st in the next ch-7 sp*; rep *to* till end ; Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Our Rep rounds are Rounds 3 and 4.

Now we have a border that we will make thereafter which will add a few more inches to your project – so a bit of calculation needed here to determine where you will stop your rep rounds. To determine where you will stop, calculate your gauge and the length you get with a repeat. You can also see how many rounds we have for the border, which will allow you again to calculate how much you’ll add on in that section – so now you can work out how many repeats you need.

Right so we’ll get on with this bit and catch up soon for the border.




Quick important notes :  a) For the 1st round of the border, we will be doing a set of 9 and 11 dc in the ch-1 sp (shell st ch-1 sps).  Now IF you are using a thick(er) yarn and think you cannot fit in these many dc in that ch-1 sp, please do a quick tweak and add a ch or 2 here, for your own convenience.
b) The border also needs an even number of shells ; so check now please.

Border : For our border, we will be working only in the ch-1 sps between the two 4 dc sets (of one shell stitch) and there will be an sc in between the 2 sets of shell stitches.  Now there is no specific ‘space’ here, so though the pattern will necessarily say ‘sp’, you will just be skipping the 4 dc and doing an sc there in that “non-space” space.. if you get what I mean. 
So to start, sl-st to that 1st ch-1 sp.

Round 1 : [3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in the 1st ch-1 sp ; *ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in the sp (between 2 shell sts) ; ch 3, sk next 4 dc, 11 dc in next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in the sp (between 2 shell sts) ; ch 3, rep [to] once* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in the sp (between 2 shell sts) ; ch 3, join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : This round on, we will be doing a set of 6 dc in each ch-1 sp ; so once again, IF you are using a thicker yarn and feel that they will not fit neatly in that ch-1 sp, do add chs as needed.
Now I will just go ahead and write the pattern down as shown in chart, so in case you have added a ch or two, please don’t get confused here with the ch-1 and ch-sp wordings.  

Round 2 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc till you reach the 1st ch-1 sp ; [3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in that same 1st ch-1 sp;   *ch 3, sk next 3 dc , rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next sc , dc in the next dc ;
(ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3, sk next sc , rep [to] once* ;  rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc till you reach the 1st ch-1 sp ; [3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in that same 1st ch-1 sp; *ch 1, rep [to] in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, rep [to] in the next ch 1 sp ; ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; (ch 5, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-2 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; ch 3 , rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc till you reach the 1st ch-1 sp ; [3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in that same 1st ch-1
sp; *ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp ; rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp ; rep [to] in the next ch 1 sp ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; ch 3, rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc till you reach the 1st ch-1 sp ; [3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in that same 1st ch-1
sp; *ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp ; rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp ; rep [to] in the next ch 1 sp ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) once ; ch 3, rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc till you reach the 1st ch-1 sp ; [3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in that same 1st ch-1
sp; *ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ; rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ; rep [to] in the next ch 1 sp ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; ch 3, rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc till you reach the 1st ch-1 sp ; (3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc) in that same 1st ch-1 sp ; *ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp , [3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in next ch-1 sp ; ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp , rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 4, rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc till you reach the 1st ch-1 sp ; (3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc) in that same 1st ch-1 sp ; *rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-4 sp , rep (to) in next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp , rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp again ; ch 4, rep (to) on the next sc ; ch 4, rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.



In this last round, we will use a small decorative picot which will be (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st ch) and we will do this picot in the ch-1 sps all around.

Round 9 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc till you reach the 1st ch-1 sp ; (3 dc ; picot , 3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc) in that same 1st ch-1 sp ; *rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp , rep (to) in next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp , rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp again ; ch 1, rep (to) on the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your divine skirt on and show off.. you deserve to J

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

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