Sweet Nothings Crochet: ZARA’s SKIRT

ZARA’s SKIRT

This is a really lovely skirt that has been asking to get made.. and thankfully someone loved it as much as I did.. so she gets it exclusively made for her.

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Materials used : Red rose knitting cotton ~ 300 gms , with a 2.50 mm crochet hook

International yarns :  Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size made : Waist : 28” : Length : 18”

Gauge : 3 dc (across) x 1 dc row (high) = ½”

You can make this project in any size .. using any yarn with a suitable hook

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over ch : Chain

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Inspired by one of the wonderful free floating freebies over the net, I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.

Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Red Rose knitting cotton. This pattern will work well with a lace weight to 2 ply yarn .. and maybe even some 3-ply yarns.. just for the way you’d want it to ‘fall’.. a heavier weight yarn may not fall as well.

You can make this project in any size .. using any yarn with a suitable hook

Before we go ahead with the construction, let’s take a look at what we’re going to do here.

So the pattern is like a rectangle from waist to hip and then there is a small flare that is brought on by the lovely hanging pineapple border.

So if there is a really large difference between waist and hip measures of the recipient (for this skirt), I’d suggest one of two things :

a) Use a tie-cord to bring the waist together. This has two advantages – not only do you avoid the fuss and trouble of buttons and a zipper, but you also have a lot more flair for your skirt. In case you decide you want to do it this way (rather than fitted), then you work your counts for your start line stitches to go around your (or intended) hips.

You will need a line of ‘holes’ in the first few rows to pass your tie cord .. so I’d suggest you do a (dc in 1^st st ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 2 dc) all around. You can then loop your tie cord neatly on completion.

b) Experienced crafters can work in an even increase every alternate row to give the finished skirt a slight “A”-lined effect followed then by the border.

Remember that for skirts (either with the fitted or tie-cord start), you must keep in mind the largest round measure. So if round hip measure is much more than round waist, you'll take hip measurement. In case you are working tie cord start, then you will have a rectangle that is the round hip measurement all through. For a fitted waist finish, you will start with half the round waist measurement, and work back and forth for the first few rows to get the back placket opening (for zipper). Once you have the opening done, you will join and work in rounds. Got it?

In case you want to make your own I-cord, check out this really simple video tutorial for a really easy creation.

With this pattern, I am going to use the lovely fdc to start. I personally feel that the finish this foundation gives is worth all the work. However if you wish to start with regular chains, go ahead. Check the top of this blog for a 'how to work fdc' video tutorial.

Assuming that we’re all going to work in rounds (from the very start), I’m going to write this pattern accordingly.

Our pattern repeat is eight.

Start with a multiple of 8 fdc for the round waist / hip measure you are working for.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st fdc.

Round 1 : dc in 1^st fdc ;

*ch 7, sk next 7 fdc, 5 dc in next fdc* ;

rep *to* till end ;

4 more dc in that 1^st dc and then join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

From this round on, we’ll have a shell stitch that is (4 dc, ch 1, 4 dc) which will be in the same st or ch-sp.

Round 2 : ch 1, shell st in the next ch-7 sp ;

*sk next 5 dc, shell st in the next ch-7 sp* ;

rep *to* till end ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 3 : sl-st till the 1^st ch-1 sp ; 5 dc in that 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*ch 7, sk next 8 dc, 5 dc in next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till end ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 4 : sl-st till the 1^st ch-7 sp , shell st in the ch-7 sp ;

*sk next 5 dc, shell st in the next ch-7 sp*;

rep *to* till end ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Our Rep rounds are Rounds 3 and 4.

Now we have a border that we will make thereafter which will add a few more inches to your project – so a bit of calculation needed here to determine where you will stop your rep rounds.

To determine where you will stop, calculate your gauge and the length you get with a repeat.

You can also see how many rounds we have for the border, which will allow you again to calculate how much you’ll add on in that section – so now you can work out how many repeats you need.

Right so we’ll get on with this bit and catch up soon for the border.

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet skirt pattern, chart 2 with stitch detail for body of Zara's skirt,

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet skirt pattern, photo of stitch detail for body of Zara's skirt,

Quick important notes : a) For the 1^st round of the border, we will be doing a set of 9 and 11 dc in the ch-1 sp (shell st ch-1 sps).

Now IF you are using a thick(er) yarn and think you cannot fit in these many dc in that ch-1 sp, please do a quick tweak and add a ch or 2 here, for your own convenience.

b) The border also needs an even number of shells ; so check now please.

Border :

For our border, we will be working only in the ch-1 sps between the two 4 dc sets (of one shell stitch) and there will be an sc in between the 2 sets of shell stitches.

Now there is no specific ‘space’ here, so though the pattern will necessarily say ‘sp’, you will just be skipping the 4 dc and doing an sc there in that “non-space” space.. if you get what I mean.

So to start, sl-st to that 1^st ch-1 sp.

Round 1 : [3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in the sp (between 2 shell sts) ;

ch 3, sk next 4 dc, 11 dc in next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in the sp (between 2 shell sts) ;

ch 3, rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in the sp (between 2 shell sts) ;

ch 3, join with sl-st to the 1^st st.

Note : This round on, we will be doing a set of 6 dc in each ch-1 sp ;

so once again, IF you are using a thicker yarn and feel that they will not fit neatly in that ch-1 sp, do add chains as needed.

Now I will just go ahead and write the pattern down as shown in chart, so in case you have added a ch or two, please don’t get confused here with the ch-1 and ch-sp wordings.

Round 2 : sl-st in the 1^st 3 dc till you reach the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

[3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in that same 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*ch 3, sk next 3 dc ,

rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next sc , dc in the next dc ;

(ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

ch 3, sk next sc , rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 3 : sl-st in the 1^st 3 dc till you reach the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

[3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in that same 1^st ch-1 sp;

*ch 1, rep [to] in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, rep [to] in the next ch 1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-2 sp ;

(ch 5, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-2 sp) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 3 , rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 4 : sl-st in the 1^st 3 dc till you reach the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

[3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in that same 1^st ch-1 sp] ;

*ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp ;

rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp ;

rep [to] in the next ch 1 sp ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 3, rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 5 : sl-st in the 1^st 3 dc till you reach the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

[3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in that same 1^st ch-1 sp] ;

*ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp ;

rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp ;

rep [to] in the next ch 1 sp ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 3, rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 6 : sl-st in the 1^st 3 dc till you reach the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

[3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in that same 1^st ch-1 sp] ;

*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ;

rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ;

rep [to] in the next ch 1 sp ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

ch 3, rep [to] in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 7 : sl-st in the 1^st 3 dc till you reach the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc) in that same 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp , [3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in next ch-1 sp ;

ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp , rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 4, rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 8 : sl-st in the 1^st 3 dc till you reach the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc) in that same 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next ch-4 sp , rep (to) in next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp , rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp again ;

ch 4, rep (to) on the next sc ;

ch 4, rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet skirt pattern, chart 3 with stitch detail for border of Zara's skirt,

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet skirt pattern, photo of stitch detail for border of Zara's skirt,

In this last round, we will use a small decorative picot which will be (ch 3, sl-st into the 1^st ch) and we will do this picot in the ch-1 sps all around.

Here's a really neat video on how to work the picot stitch.

Round 9 : sl-st in the 1^st 3 dc till you reach the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(3 dc ; picot , 3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc) in that same 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp , rep (to) in next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp , rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp again ;

ch 1, rep (to) on the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet skirt pattern, chart 4 with stitch detail for picot of Zara's skirt, this blog has loads of video tutorials for all stitch used

Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your divine skirt on and show off.. you deserve to

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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