Thursday, 25 May 2017

POP CORN TOP

free crochet top pattern


POP CORN TOP


Sometime last year, I used this pattern to make a yoke, and at that time I suggested that we can make this into a top as well.. I thought today was the day I made the top! ;)

Come along and work with me as I work on this pattern.

Materials used : Today I’ve used 1 ball of our superb Indian Red Rose knitting cotton yarn & just under a ball of the lovely Aunt Lydia bamboo viscose yarn,  with a 2.5 mm crochet hook.

If you wish to purchase any of these yarns online via Amazon, please click on the convenient link on the right hand side of this blog that reads CLICK HERE to buy yarns online.  Cheers.

 Size made : I’ve made this for a bust size 34” (S-M)

Please note that as always, you can make this pattern for any size.  All you need to do is read through alllllllll my detailed instructions and get your stitch count right!

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                   dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                      ch-sp(s) : chain space(s)
sp(s) : space(s)                                                            rep : Repeat
yo : Yarn over                                                            sk : Skip
lp : Loop                                                                       hk : Hook


Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

Popcorn stitch : work 5 dc in st or ch-sp ; carefully take the loop off the hook and pull it out a bit ;  slip your hook into the 1st dc, pull that loop (that you just dropped) through ; yo and draw through both loops.  One popcorn stitch made.
A great video for this stitch at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2xBe_R8UWI

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

How to join : So the regular methods used to join granny squares works for joining of the sides and shoulders of our project as well.  Here are two methods.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.
So one way we can make this pattern, is from the bottom up.  In that case, we will start with a fdc row and then work our way up the sides to the armholes and then the neck of this top.
Front and back pattern will be the same – so you will make two of the same, and then attach the shoulders and sides.
Around the armhole and probably around the base of your top, you could run a row or picots, if you feel like it.

free crochet top pattern

Alternatively, what you can also do is to work a yoke part all the way to the shoulders, and then come back to the start row to work the lower part for the top afterwards. 

Just for kicks, this is what I am going to do… So I’ve started with a row of fdc from around chest, work up to the neck and shoulders, and then come back to this start fdc row and work down to the length of the top.

The beauty of this pattern is that the pattern works both ways – i.e What I mean is that as we are using popcorn stitch, one cannot tell if the pattern is being worked from the yoke up to the shoulders, and then working the lower portion of the top – or whether you are working the pattern all the way from the bottom.  The only difference is that you will have a row of fdc around the chest.  As I am working with two slightly different coloured yarns, I thought having a yoke in one colour then defined it beautifully –
Of course it also adds to my design panache. ;)

So now that you have two ideas .. you can start either way.

The one question that seems to come up very often after I post a blog is “How do I make it  “such n such” size?”.  So two ways to do that (sorry for the tongue-in-cheek)
a)    You read this blog especially the line that reads stitch count repeat and follow those instructions ; or
b)    Call me and I’ll make it for you J

On a serious note, the stitch count represents the width of this garment – so using the stitch count, ensure get the width you need either for the round measure at the base of your top or the largest part of the upper body, whichever is more – so eg your bust size is more than your low waist measure, then you start with the bust measurements.  Easy enough ? So movin on..





Our stitch count repeat is 12

Start : with fdc in multiples of 12 + 1 which will be half the round measure for the lower part of your top or the half round measure for round chest, whichever you decide.

Row 1 : dc in 1st dc ; *ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

In the following row, we’ll use our Popcorn st.  Check under “stitches used” for a “how to”.

Row 2 : dc in 1st dc ; [ch 2, dc in the next dc] ;
*Popcorn-st in the next ch-2 sp ; rep [to] 3 times* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

In the following row, we’ll basically repeat Row 1, ignoring all the Popcorn-sts and working dc’s in all the dc’s all the way to the end.

Row 3 : dc in 1st dc ; *ch 2, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Our following Row 4, is basically the same as Row 2.  
The only difference is that we’re going to work our Popcorn sts in between the earlier popcorn sts.

Row 4 : dc in 1st dc ; [ch 2, dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 2 times ;
*Popcorn-st in the next ch-2 sp ; rep [to] 3 times* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 5 : dc in 1st dc ; *ch 2, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.
  
And just like that we’ve completed one repeat. Just how easy is this pattern , right?

So our repeat rows are Rows 2- 5.
The beauty of this top is that it has no armhole shaping. So continue this pattern all the way to the neckline where we will meet again for that shaping.

So now we’ve reached the neckline, fold your work in half, and decide the two sides for your neckline.  Place markers at these points.

Now our pattern is simple enough, so basically, you continue with this easy 4-line pattern repeat from the armhole edge to the neckline marker and back , working back and forth till your work reaches the shoulder level.
Once you’ve reached the shoulder at one side, you will then go back to the other marker, and work till the shoulder for that side as well.

This then completes one side of your top and you will mirror or work these rows for the other side of your top as well.

Once you’ve completed both sides of your top, you will attach the shoulders and sides.

Neckline and armhole edging :
For a neat finish, a good edging is a must.  So you could either run a round of sc followed by a round of hdc or dc all around the neckline and armhole, or go straight with a round of dc around the armhole and neckline edgings.

For a little showy finish, you could work a picot every third stitch as well.  If you so decide (to work the picots) then ensure that you have a multiple of 3 (if every third stitch) or as required for neatness.
For a “how to do the picot” , check under “stitches used”.

free crochet top pattern

OR you can work a tiny little sleeve.  IF you decide to work a sleeve, then when you work a round of sc all around the armhole, ensure that you have a multiple of 12 stitches all around. You will then work the same pattern as you have for the body, which you will have down pat by now. The only difference is that you will join at the end of each round with a sl-st and work in rounds.

Once again, you may wish to make a longer sleeve and you may.  Just continue working this pattern all the way down to the length needed.  Remember that you will need to measure your  round arm and see which part of the arm is the largest measure.  You will need to ensure that the round that you work is the largest round arm measure.  

You may also decide to end off with a round of picot (as I have), and there are links given at the top of this blog on "how to work a picot stitch".  

When done you will fasten off and weave in all ends.

Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my boards on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/boards/


and join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few other yokes made, so check these out











































and here are my earlier yoke patterns















Tuesday, 23 May 2017

SIMPLE LACY SHELL TOP

free simple crochet top pattern

SIMPLE LACY SHELL TOP


I saw this pattern swatch and thought it would make a lovely top.  Crop tops are the “in” thing I’m informed ;) , so here’s what I have made with this pattern.

Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Do check my long Pinterest “to-do” list for little ladies jackets / boleros at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ladies-tops-to-make/

And inspired by this photo, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.



Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 150 gms of some lovely Indian Red Rose knitting cotton yarn with a 3.0 mm crochet hook

To purchase this or similar yarn online, click on the link at the top right of this blog that reads CLICK HERE TO BUY YARNS ONLINE via Amazon.

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 


How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :



Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                               sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                         hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                 yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                       sc : Single crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

I started this pattern off with the base of the top – so first you need to decide how long you want the top, and check out the measurements for that part of the body – so if you are taking this top all the way down to the waist, you will need to work half the round waist measure for your starting line – and if you are working it only till the mid-riff.. yup, you got it.. it’s the half mid-riff measure you will start with.

This is not my pattern – I found this chart and inspiration swatch and this is what I’ve done with it.


Part 1 : Front and Back

free crochet top pattern

free crochet top pattern

We will work two rectangles that are the same – so one each for front and back. 






Start : with fsc in multiples of 8 + 4 for the round chest / bust measure. Turn.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st 2 fsc ; 
*ch 3, sk next fsc, sc in the next 2 fsc ; ch 3, sk next fsc,dc in the next 4 fsc* ;
rep *to* till the last 2 fsc ; dc in the last 2 fsc.  Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1st 2 dc ; 
*ch 4, sk next 2 ch-3 sps and 2 sc, sc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* till the last 2 dc, sc in the last 2 dc.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st 2 sc ; 4 dc in the next ch-4 sp ;
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next 2 sc ; ch 3, sk next sc, 4 dc in the next ch-4 sp* ; 
rep *to* till last 2 dc, sc in the last 2 dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : sc in the 1st 6 dc ;
*ch 4, sk next 2 ch-3 sps and 2 sc, sc in the next 4 dc*
rep *to* till the last 6 dc, sc in the last 6 dc.  Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st 2 sc ; 
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next 2 sc ; ch 3, sk next sc, 4 dc in the next ch-4 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last 2 sc ; dc in the last 2 sc.  Turn.

And believe it or not.. this is our pattern.  Rep Rows 2 – 5 till you have the length you need for your top.

Please read through to Parts 2 & 3 before you carry on.

We will work two identical pieces, one each for the front and back – and we will join the shoulders and sides to make the top.
SO go off and make the two rectangles, and we will meet back here in a bit to work the rest out. 

Once you have finished the two rectangles, all you need to do is join up the shoulders, and you have a neat boat-like neckline that automatically works out.  You will then join up the two sides, all the way up to the armholes. Fasten off and you are nearly done.

Nearly.. because it’s always neater to finish off with a round of sc.  So re-attach your yarn at the neckline (any corner will do) and work a round (or two?) of sc all around.  Similarly work a round (or two) of sc all around the armhole edge too for a neat finish.



Part 2 : Neckline shaping ideas



With the original idea, we are working a set of two rectangles, joining and getting a boat-like neckline.  If however, you want a square shaped neckline, then read on.

Our pattern is worked in sets of 8, with a 4-dc set and then two ch-3 sps + sc worked over the next 4 dc, right?

So first you will need to decide how deep and wide you want your neckline.  Place markers on either side to mark these points.  I would suggest that you have these markers at the end of a 4-dc set for convenience. 

You will then work per pattern from one edge all the way to the 1st marker for one side of the neckline, TURN and work back to the armhole edge.

You will continue working on just these stitches in pattern from armhole edge to neckline edge till you reach the shoulder for one side of the top.  Fasten off when you reach the shoulder.

You will then re-attach your yarn at the 2nd marker for the other side of the shoulder and re-work the same pattern from the neckline edge to the armhole for the other side of the top.

The final decision you need to make is if you are keeping the other half of the top the same dept/width or taking it all the way to the shoulders without change.

Once you have finished both the sides of your top, you will once again first attach the shoulder bits, and then join both the sides all the way to the armhole.

Once again, for a neat finish, you should run a round (or two?) of sc all around both the neckline and the armhole.

Please note that for the neckline, you will need to ensure that you do not work 3 sc in each ch-3 sp, and an sc in the sc in the middle, as this will give you a very floppy neckline (of course, this may give you a nice cowled finish too.. so hmmmm.. go figure).  I have decided to work only 1 sc per ch-3 sp, and an sc in the sc in between.  After you work the first round of sc, may I suggest that you put your work down and see if it is lying flat.. if not tweak it a tad, and work in a few sc 2-tog after checking (and marking) which points are looking flabby.  Got it? 
Great.. you’re on your way to becoming an exclusive designer too, aren’t you?


Part 3 : Armhole finishing ideas


For the sleeves, I would suggest that you first run that round (or two?) of sc all around the armhole to start.  Then you can work either the pattern or just a few rounds of dc all around to get a small little sleeve edge.

The other thing that you could do is work the same pattern, that you have for the body, around the armhole as well.  Please note though that as you are now working in a round, your stitch count will be in multiples of 8.

Please also note that as we are working with a straight shoulder finish (without any decrease and armhole shaping), I would suggest that you keep the armhole a little looser, so that there is a little *give* (or looseness) in the sleeve around the armhole.

You can make the sleeve length any length you wish, as long as you remember that you are working in a round, and so you must check that you work with the largest round measure (i.e if the upper arm measure is the largest, then that is the round measure you will have for the full length of sleeve... Got it?)
Of course, this also depends on your skill level - and you could well decide to tweak the pattern a bit to get the sleeve shaped too.. if you do, hey have fun.. and if you'd like to.. do share your ideas as comments here, and I will edit it into this blog if you'd like that.  Cheers.

Right then.. go back to where you have stopped your work for the body.. and carry on then, carry on (as Tim Gun always said in The Runway show ;) )

Once done, please block your top as per yarn instructions.. get it nicely modeled and photographed and remember to tag and credit me for this superb creation !
Thanks in advance !

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own baby dress.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ 



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas

Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/

Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my older creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too