Wednesday, 24 January 2018

GRANNY SQUARE BOHO BEACH TOP - 3

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GRANNY SQUARE BOHO BEACH TOP - 3


As you may have guessed by the number, this is my third boho beach top.
This is an easy granny square adapted to make a top, and if you have made one granny square before, this one is going to be a blast.  So come along and let’s work on this beauty together.  J

Do check my long Pinterest link for all the free patterns I’ve written up over the years right at the bottom of this blog.

For this top, I was inspired by this photo (not my photo), and these are my pattern notes as I work on my project.



Materials usedToday I’ve used some of our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton with a 3.75 mm crochet hook

For Indians : Our lovely White rose & Red Rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with an easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians : I’ve used a regular knitting cotton. The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.  
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this pattern.

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level. 
The “Advanced” skills are not for the stitches used (stitches are basic).  It applies to the use of techniques to join the squares and finishing.  That said, this is not that hard – so come along and enjoy this creation.

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg
Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

Single crochet 2-together : Sc 2-tog :
Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps.  One sc 2-tog complete

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279848004014/

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

trc : Treble / Triple crochet                                      ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                          sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                    hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                            yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                   sc : Single crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

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This pattern uses granny squares to make the front and back of the beach top.  Before we head off let’s work on a few ideas and see what we are creating.

You will need the following measurements
a)   Round Chest
b)   Neckline depth


I think we need a total of 7 squares for this pattern.  However, you would need to figure out how many you actually need once you make your first square.

I am going to give you the basic pattern for a granny square, without indicating colours.  This is where you creativity and combinations come in.

I will then tell you how to attach the squares to get the basic top and tassels done – and you are free to do a little beach craziness too J


Part 1 : Basic granny square pattern
Make 7 pieces


So here’s where it gets tricky.  You need to make one square and see what size you get before you decide how many squares you’d need for your top.
As you can see from the finished product, we work a square and then attach it like a diamond – so the across size is the one that you need to calculate with.
Check the size of the square and see how many squares you’d need for the width of the chest.
And then decide if you need to work with hdc, dc or trc.  

What is an easy way to increase the size of my granny square ? Use a longer stitch.  So if you find that you need *just that little bit more* for your square to get the round chest measure, change the dc to a trc and you’ll get the slight increase.

So let’s start with one basic square first.
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and work 8 sc in that circle. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 2 : dc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 3, dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
3 dc in the next ch-3 sp and in each ch-3 sp all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc. (32 sts)

Round 4 : 2 dc in the 1st dc and in each dc all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc. (64 sts)

Round 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc. (32 dc and 32 ch-1 sps)

Round 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc. (32 dc and 32 ch-1 sps)

In the following round, we will transform this circle into a square.

Round 6 : (2 sc ; ch 3, 2 sc) all in the 1st dc ;
*[sc in the next ch-1 sp ; sc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 6 times ; sc in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 7 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; (3 dc ; ch 3, 3 dc) all in the same 1st ch-3 sp ;
*dc in the next 19 sc ; rep (to) in the next ch-3 sp*
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 8 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; (3 dc ; ch 3, 3 dc) all in the same 1st ch-3 sp ;
*dc in the next dc ;  [ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 11 times ; rep (to) in the next corner ch-3 sp*
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 9 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; (3 dc ; ch 3, 3 dc) all in the same 1st ch-3 sp ;
*dc in the next dc ;  [dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] 11 times ; rep (to) in the next corner ch-3 sp*
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.


Part 2 : Joining Granny squares


Using one of the joining techniques given above, join your granny squares. 

To join, turn your squares to the right, so that they become diamond shaped and then join two sides of the centre one to one side each of the side diamonds. We have spun our squares into diamonds, Ta .. da!

Look at the diagram below to get an idea of how to place them before joining.

How do you join the squares evenly?
a)   Count the number of stitches you have on each side and place a marker at the 2 corner points of two squares
b)   Join the squares neatly till the two corner points
c)     After having joined Squares (diamonds) 1 & 2, ensure that you once again place a marker for the two corner points of the 3rd square and join this one neatly too.
d)   Ensure that you have a neat join at the “V” between the 3 squares / diamonds which will form your neckline.
e)    Work with the same care for the other side of your top as well.
f)     You now have a “V” (facing downwards)>  We will work your shoulder straps from the top 2 points of the side diamonds.
g)    We will join the back and front from the side two points of the two side diamonds.
h)    We will hang tassels off the lower two points of the diamonds.  Got it?



Part 3 : Border around diamonds

Now that you have the diamonds joined, let us run a small border all around, before we make our shoulder straps and join the back to the front.

a)   Re-attach your yarn at any point on the side of one of the diamonds / granny squares.
b)   Mark the corner points of the top.
c)     Run a round of sc all around the squares, with 3 sc in each corner st.
d)   Work a sc 2-tog (single crochet 2-tog) over the 2 sts in the “V” point / neckline.  Check the top of this blog for a “how to”
e)    Work stitches such that you get a stitch count in multiples of 3 all around.

Once you have finished this preparation, lets’ start on the actual border.

Just so it looks really good, you must ensure that you get a dc in that centre stitch of the “V” of your top and in the two corners where you will work your shoulder straps.  So in case it’s easier for you, re-attach your yarn at one of these points, counting off to ensure that you will get the dc in these three points.

Round 1 : dc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 2, sk next 2 sc, dc in the next sc) ;
*rep (to) till the 1st corner marker ; [ch 2, dc in the same corner marker]* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

We will work 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, and work 3 sc in each ch-2 corner sp.  The corner sp for the following round will be the (dc ; ch 2, dc) all in the same sp that forms a “V”.  Got it?

Round 2 : sc in the 1st dc ;
(3 sc in the next ch-2 sp ; sc in the next dc) ;
*rep (to) till the 1st corner “V” sp ; 3 sc in that corner ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Now in the final border round, we will work a shell in every alternate ch-3 sp.  For the sake of getting it all right and perfect, please check how you need to work your shells. 
How do we do that?
a)    You must have a shell in the corner ch-3 sps. 
b)   So work back from the corner ch-3 sp and see where you need to start working your 1st sc. 
c)     We will be working our shell Stitch in the centre sc of each 3-sc set.
d)   We will work an sc in every alternate 3-sc set, and once again in the centre sc of the set.
e)    Our Shell st is [dc ; (ch 1, dc) ; rep (to) once] all in the same sc.
f)     Our Corner Shell st is [dc ; (ch 1, dc) ; rep (to) 3 times] all in the same sc.

Following the above ground rules, let’s work this last border round.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st centre sc of the 1st 3-sc set ; sc in that same sc ;
(sk next 2 sc, Shell st in the next sc ; sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc) ;
*rep (to) till the 1st corner 3-sc set ;
sk next 2 sc, Corner Shell st in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.



Part 4 : Shoulder & side Straps

For the straps I have worked a row of foundation half double crochet for the length I needed for my straps – two each for the shoulders and two for the sides.
Foundation half double crochet is like the fdc, but instead of working a dc, you work a hdc chain.
If you find this too confusing, you can
a)   Work a fsc chain for the length needed ; Turn and then work an sc in each fsc all the way back to the start.  Fasten off and attach onto the top ; OR
b)   Work a regular chain length for the length needed ; Turn and work a hdc in each chain all the way to the start.  Fasten off and attach onto the top.
c)     Attachment : Check the photo above.  Ensure that you allow your work to hang for a bit before tightly securing the ends – no matter what yarn you are using.  Even cotton yarn tends to stretch a bit on hanging / wear.



Part 5 : Tassels

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Along the bottom edge, I have hung a row of tassels. 
Decide on the following :
a)   how much yarn do you have ?  (as this will decide the following answers)
b)   how far apart you want them
c)     how thick would you like them (Thickness is doubled so fold your strands over before you close this idea)
d)   how long would you like them
 
For a quick “how to”, check out this video

This is one kick-ass (oops) boho top, don’t you agree?

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my older creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too