Friday, 26 June 2015



A really beautiful dress that has yet again made it from my “to-do” list to the “yaay done it” list .. well, almost done it!  This dress has been specially chosen for
the lovely little Haadaasha.  Along with this cute dress, we’ll also learn how to make a lovely little rose. 

Inspired by this photo, and the link

Materials used : 100% cotton (from Australia) with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

Size made : Chest : 20” ; Length 18.5”
Difficulty level : Intermediate to advanced level

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, do view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

Abbreviations used :
 fsc : Foundation single crochet                                   ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                          sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, and work from the waist up to the shoulder, and then we come back down to this start row and work down for the skirt.
Now the yoke is worked in one piece, and we work back and forth so that we work a 4 dc placket at the back for closure.
We then come back to the start fsc row and work the skirt from this row, in rounds.
The top of our yoke is a straight line (so no decreases and worries) and there’s a neat scalloped strap for the shoulders.
For the final bit, we will make a cute rose to embellish this already cute dress.. so let’s get started.

Now the oft-asked question.. howdo you calculate how many stitches to start ?  Well, for this pattern, we’ve got it super easy – we just work the measure for the round waist – and working with the pattern repeat for the waist, you work that many fsc stitches for your start row.  For the button placket, do remember to add 4 sts to the start row count.

Part I : Yoke

Start with fsc in multiples of 5 + 4 (for placket). Turn

Row 1 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; *ch 2, sk next 2 fsc, dc in next 3 fsc* ; 
rep from *to* till last 2 fsc ; dc in last 2 fsc.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; 2 dc in the ch-2 sp *ch 2, sk next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the ch-2 sp*; rep from *to* till last 2 dc ; dc in last 2 dc.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; *ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till last 2 dc ; dc in last 2 dc.  Turn.

Rep Rows 2 and 3 , ending with a Row 3 till you reach just under the armhole, and then we’ll do a quick decrease.

So the perennial question .. how does one calculate how high to go with the yoke.  Well, I usually take the easy way out and use a well-fitting dress of the person for whom this is intended as a marker, but the thumb rule is also that the yoke is just about 1/3rd of the whole dress length, for younger kids (i.e till Age 1).  For older kids, the yoke should come just under the armhole, so that the skirt portion of the dress starts just under the armhole.
And though this chart is not in English, with the above hint(s), you will get a better handle on all of this.. else, trial and error.. always the best teacher, I'd say.

So our decrease row will divide the front and back(s).  For this, we first need to decide where our armholes come in – so fold your strip / work in half, in such a way that the 2 dc ends meet (which will make that the back - See photo below) and you have an even continuous front portion, and two back halves.  
Now you can mark the two sides for the armhole and work the decrease row for that section (with marker) only.
From this row on, we will be working the front and back sections separately.

Decrease Row : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; 2 dc in the ch-2 sp 
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the ch-2 sp*; 
rep from *to* till the corner marker ; sk the last 3 dc before the marker.  Turn.

Rep Rows 3 and 2 till your project reaches the level you wish for the neckline.  The neckline in this dress will be a straight one – so pretty simple, right?
Remember that there is a small strap that we need to make.  Instructions for this after the skirt / body of dress.

Part 2 : Body of dress
So for this portion of the dress, we go back down to the first fsc row we’ve started with, and keeping the yoke of the dress facing you, we will work the skirt portion of the dress.

We work the body or skirt portion of the dress in rounds.  So remember to join with a sl-st at the end of the round.
When working with the lower skirt portion, you could either overlap the 4 dc border / placket (for older children) or you work in a loop along one edge and add the button on the other placket edge.  If overlapping, do remember that you need to do that before you work the bottom skirt bit (i.e overlap it and then work the stitches over both plackets.  

The designer has used three colours for her skirt portion – each shell (two rounds of pattern) making one colour strip.  So while I will indicate where you need to change, you could do this beauty in one colour as well.

Our pattern repeat is 6.
So for this portion, we’re going to run a line of ch-6’s all around going through all the ch-2 sps of that first fsc row.
To start, let’s re-attach the yarn at the centre back of the dress.

Round 1 : *ch 6, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep from *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-6 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-6 sp ; (ch 1, dc) in the same ch-6 sp , rep (to) 3 times ; 
*dc in the next ch-6 sp ; rep (to) 4 times* ; 
rep from *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next 1st ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; *sc in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) 3 times* ; rep from *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : If changing colours, change now.

Round 4 : sk the 1st ch-3 sp and sl-st into the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the same ch-3 sp ; (ch 1, dc) in the same ch-3 sp , rep (to) 3 times ; 
*sk next two ch-3 sps , dc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) 4 times* ; 
rep from *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next 1st ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; *sc in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) 3 times* ; rep from *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 4 and 5 form one pattern repeat.  If changing colours, change after Round 5 for each colour repeat.
Rep Rounds 4 and 5 till length needed.

Notes :  So here are a few ideas .. If using multiple colours, instead of changing every pattern repeat, you could change every second pattern repeat – so you have two pattern rounds in each colour.

Secondly,  I am pretty happy with the ‘flared’ shape as I’m also making this dress for a younger child, but if you want more of a flared shape, you could add a few (ch 1, dc) repeats in Round 4 (and then you will have to similarly increase the repeats in Round 5) and add to the flare in the lower part of the dress.  Note that if you do decide to increase the (ch 1, dc) pattern repeat, it must be in ODD numbers.  In this pattern we have a total of 5 dcs and 4 ch-1 sps, so you will need to increase that to 7 dcs with 6 ch-1 sps etc.

Great .. so off we go and complete our lovely dress.  Once done, fasten off.. weave in all ends… and then let’s go and show off this new creation on all the social networking pages J

Part I : Strap : Make two
There is no chart or pattern for this.. so following the general shell-like pattern, I’ve worked this strap myself.  

Basically, I’m going to work a fsc row and then work scallops on both sides – so we work scallops on one side of fsc, then go around and work scallops around the other side and as we’re doing the scallops, we’ll do it all around the neckline and armhole. 

Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; *ch 5, sk next 4 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1st sc , 7 dc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
*sc in the next sc , 7 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* till end.  
Turn.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Re-attach yarn onto the other side of this same fsc chain and Rep Rows 1 and 2 for the scalloped finish on the other side.

Make two such straps and attach them onto the top of the yoke (front to back). 

Fasten off and weave in ends, attach your button and a lovely satin ribbon .. and Voila ! Yet another beautiful dress made for your young lady.

Back view

For the final “ta da ” moment, let’s make a cute rose embellishment.

Rose :

Start with a fsc in multiples of 3 + 1.   I started with 52 fsc.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc , *sk next 2 fsc, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in the next fsc* ; 
rep *to* till last fsc ; dc in the last fsc.  Turn.

Now for the next row, we’re going to make the frilly petal bits.  For this we will use the space between 2 sets of the “V” stitches.  Now this is not an actual space – but it is the ends of the 2 sts, and will hold the 8 dcs up like a fan. Hopefully you’ve understood what I mean.. and will follow with the chart and photo below.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; *8 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next 2 dc, sc in the next space* ; rep *to* till last dc ; 8 dc in the last dc. 

Fasten off, leaving about a 10-12” long tail to stitch up.

Now comes the best part. Holding your rose lace strip with the wrong side facing you, start rolling your strip and sewing in the lower edges to hold the rose together.  Slowly but steadily you’ll see the beautiful flower emerge.

What I did was to check that I was able to figure out how to roll it neatly before I took out my needle and threaded in that long tail to sew it in.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ?? And of course, I needn’t add that the more delicate your yarn, the cuter, smaller and more delicate your rose.  So go ahead and make more roses.. not just for this lovely dress but a lovely bouquet for your home too.. I know you’re longing to do it too 

In the photo below, the tops of each flower are in a contrast colour.. and what a difference that makes!

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

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Have a great day and see you soon. J
I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J