G’s EXQUISITE MOTIF BOLERO
Yes, yet another motif pattern.. and that from
someone who’d loudly said “No more motifs for me”.. teaches me never to say
never, I guess.. if I ever learn that.
However, in my defense,
this one was specially ordered.
May I also proudly add (and gloat a wee bit?) that she so loved it that she immediately took off the jacket she was wearing and wore this the whole time - said she'd sleep in it .. and there were selfies (taken) galore too .. ooh, am I thrilled !
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As I work on this pattern, I’ve
written down my notes that I share with you.
and a photograph of the inspiration...
Materials used : Today I’ve used our superb Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn,
with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
Skill level : Advanced
The stitches, per se, are not
difficult at all. The combination of
stitches, and the calculations involved though required some advanced skills.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
Generally with my patterns, I give you ideas on how to make it to different size.
Now as we have motifs here, I'd say you make one set of motifs, and see how big they are, and how many you need for the front. To figure this out, I'd say you place these motifs on a well fitting (non-jersey or stretch fabric, so not a tee shirt but a regular top) top.
For the back, you can work it to size without a problem.
Have fun.. create something unique.
Quick analysis of what we’re going
to do here today. The back of this
bolero is a simple one. The front has several motifs that are joined together
to give it this really classy look. So
we’ll work on one motif at a time, and join them as we go.
These
instructions are very detailed and there are a lot of tips and added
instructions. Please go through them all.
MOTIF 1
Make four per side
Tips :
You are an advanced crocheter
and do know how to join motifs and work a complicated pattern, but as I’m writing
my notes down, thought I’d add these in too. So for joining, here’s what I’ve
done
1.
I’ve started with
Motif # 1 and then joined the four Motif # 1’s to get a ‘diamond’ of sorts (as
it joins on the top but not at the bottom of our bolero).
2. I then started on Motif # 2, and joined this to the four
Motif # 1’s.
3. I then did Motif # 3, once again attaching it to Motif # 2
and the lower Motifs # 1.
4. Next I did Motif # 4 and attached it to all the motifs needed
to finish off.
5. I finally finished off with the shoulder Motif # 5, which was
really easy as its almost Motif # 1 with a small change.
Right then onward we go..
We start with 34 chain that is
divided into 12 + 10 + 12. At the end of the 1st 12, we join to make
a circle, then make a 22 chain, and we loop back and join to make a 2nd
circle in the 12th ch from the end, in such a way that we have two
loops of 12 ch each, and 10 ch between them.
Start with 34 ch and make two loops of 12 ch at each end, with a
chain length of 10 ch between them.
Turn.
Now here starts the little
trickiness of this motif.
The two little
ch-12 loops will need to be slowly ‘attached’ to the ch-10 sp in between. So
with each round we make here (we’ll do a total of 3 round), ensure that you start
with a sl-st in the round.
I am unable to tell you which
st or where to sl-st into, as it’s going to be terribly confusing – so may
I suggest that you approximate the length of your 1st dc and work in
the sl-st accordingly.
Row 1 : 21 dc in the 1st
ch-12 loop ;
dc in each of the next 10 dc ; 21 dc in the last ch-12 loop ;
[sl-st
in the ch-10 length]. Turn.
Row 2 : [sl-st in the ch-10
length] ;
dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to)
18 times ;
ch 1, trc in the next dc ; trc in the next 9 dc ;
rep (to) 20 times
;
dc in the last dc ;
[sl-st in the ch-10 length]. Turn.
In the following final row of
our motif, there are a lot of different repeats.
Please pay
attention to the brackets / parenthesis.
The other thing to remember is
that we need to join the two circular / oval ends, so with the last ch-3 sp
before end, we will join the two ends.
I’m writing all this here, as
well as in instructions below as these are fairly complicated set of
instructions.
Row 3 : sl-st in the ch-10
length ;
sc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(2 sc in the ch-1 sp ; sc in the next
dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
[dc ; ch 3, dc] in the next ch-1 sp ;
{sk next dc, rep [to] once} ;
rep {to} 8 times ;
*sk next dc , 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* 6 times ;
dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next 10 trc ; dc in the
next ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next dc ;
rep *to* 7 times ;
rep {to} 9 times ;
dc in
the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1 and join with the ch-3 sp on the other side of this
motif ;
ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp ;
sc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
sc in the last dc ; sl-st
in the ch-1o length.
Fasten off.
Our first motif complete.
We need a total of 8 such
motifs, four for each side.
The motif for
the neck / shoulder is very similar but has some decorative ch-3
portions that come along the neck edge. So let’s look at that next.
Please follow the chart below
for attachment of the motifs.
May I suggest that you place
the motifs down on a well-fitting top / garment of the person intended or on a
template you’ve roughly drawn of a top for ease of attachment.
MOTIF 2
Make one per side
This motif is the centre motif
for the first four Motif # 1 that we have per side. For joining of this motif, please refer to
the chart given and I’d suggest you join as you go (for neatness and a good
finish).
Start
with 12 ch. Join
with a sl-st to the 1st ch.
Row 1 : 22 dc in the ch-12
loop.
Turn. Do not join.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st
dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn. Do not join.
Row 3 : sl-st into the 1st
ch-1 sp ;
(dc ; ch 3, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
*sk next dc , rep (to)*
;
rep *to* till end.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
MOTIF 3
Make one per side
Start
with 24 ch. Turn.
(21 dc)
Row 1 : dc in the 4th
ch from hook ; dc in each dc till end.
Turn.
In the following row, you will
need to check the chart to see how you need to join this to the bottom two
Motifs # 1.
Row 2 : sc in the 1st
dc ;
(ch 3, sc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) 9 times ;
turn and work along the
vertical bar of that last dc ;
2 sc in that vertical dc bar ;
turn and working
along the bottom of the dc row ;
sc in the 1st dc ;
rep (to) 10
times till end. Turn.
MOTIF 4
Make one per side
Start
with 6 ch. Join
with a sl-st to the 1st ch.
Row 1 : 8 dc in the ch-6
loop.
Turn. Do not join.
In the following row, you will
need to check the chart to see how you need to join this to the bottom of Motif
# 3.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st
dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.
Do not join.
In the following row, you will
need to check the chart to see how you need to join this to the the lower of
Motifs # 1.
Row 3 : sl-st into the 1st
ch-1 sp ;
(dc ; ch 3, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
*sk next dc , rep (to)*
;
rep *to* till end.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
MOTIF 5
Make one per side
This motif forms the shoulder /
neck portion and is a lot like Motif #1 with a small difference. I am, therefore, not going to give the full
explanations here all over again.
Start with 34 ch and make two loops of 12 ch at each end, with a
chain length of 10 ch between them.
Turn.
Row 1 : 21 dc in the 1st
ch-12 loop ; dc in each of the next 10 dc ;
21 dc in the last ch-12 loop ;
[sl-st
in the ch-10 length]. Turn.
Please note a small change in
this row from Motif # 1.
Row 2 : [sl-st in the ch-10
length] ;
dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to)
18 times ;
ch 1, dc in the next 10 dc ;
rep (to)
20 times ; dc in the last dc ;
[sl-st in the ch-10 length]. Turn.
In the following row, you will
need to check the chart to see how you need to join the lower part of this to
the the tops of Motifs # 1.
Row 3 : sl-st in the ch-10
length ; sc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(2 sc in the ch-1 sp ; sc in the next
dc) ;
rep (to) once ;
[dc ; ch 3, dc] in the next ch-1 sp ;
{sk next dc, rep [to] once} ;
rep {to} 16 times ;
*sk next dcs , rep [to] in the the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* 3
times ; sk next 2 dc, rep {to} 17 times ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1 and
join with the ch-3 sp on the other side of this motif ;
ch 1, dc in the same
ch-1 sp ;
sc in the next dc ; sc in the
next dc ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
sc in the
last dc ; sl-st in the ch-1o length.
Fasten off.
Our final motif complete.
Attachment chart once again
So once you’re done with the
all the motifs needed for the two sides of your jacket, we’ll have the much
much easier back – which is all simple and plain. So let’s start on the back now, shall we?
BACK :
For the back, if you look at
the finished product, it looks like its all dc all through.
So if you like
that finish, you could start with a row of fdc and then work in dc all through.
I’ve however decided to start
with a row of fsc, and then work a small border with post stitches. I just love the border effect of post
stitches.
Calculations : Well, check the length
of the front of your bolero.
Then
measure the round of the body at that point (of the person for whom this is
intended) and divide by half.
This
number will be the ‘width’ of our back....
OR do what I do usually and request for a well fitting top and measure against that.. easy peasy.. and a great fit always.
Start Row 1 : Work as many fsc as
needed for half the round measure of the person intended. Turn.
In the following row we’ll use
our Back post double crochet bpdc stitch
Row 2 : dc in the 1st
fsc ;
bpdc around the post of the next fsc and around the post of each fsc till
the last fsc ; dc in the last fsc. Turn.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st
dc ;
fpdc around the post of the next dc and around the post of each dc till the
last dc ; dc in the last dc. Turn.
If you want a wider border,
then go ahead and rep Rows 2 & 3 (or just Row 2 once).
Row 4 : hdc in the 1st
dc ;
hdc in each dc till the last dc ; hdc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 5 : hdc in the 1st
hdc and in each hdc till end. Turn.
Rep Row 5 till your project reaches
the armhole level.
Half double crochet 2-tog : hdc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp] (3 lps on hk) ; insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all 4 lps on hk. One hdc 2-tog made.
Check the video tutorial at https://youtu.be/jdaXTr7Lcig
Next Row : sl-st in the 1st
6 sts ;
hdc 2-tog over the next 2 hdc ;
hdc in each hdc till last 8 hdc ;
hdc 2-tog over the next 2 hdc.
Turn, leaving the last 6 hdc unworked.
Next Row : Decrease row :
hdc 2-tog over the 1st 2 hdc ;
hdc in each hdc
till the last 2 hdc ;
hdc 2-tog over the last 2 hdc. Turn.
Rep Decrease Row one (or two)
more time(s) and then continue without decrease till you reach 1” from the
shoulders.
There is a small neckline
shaping of sorts around the neckline. So
what I’ve done work till I was about 2 rows off from the top and then reduced
the neckline in just those last two rows.
Next Row : hdc in the 1st 15 hdc. Turn.
Note : Check your gauge and
see if you need 15 hdc for your shoulder.
Last Row : hdc in the 1st hdc and each hdc till end. Turn.
When done, fasten off and then
work the other side of the shoulder to mirror this side.
Finishing
Yet again let’s take a look at
the attachment of sides and shoulders to the back as the motifs are pretty
delicate and a wrong attachment can change the whole shape. I have pinned up the sides before attaching
(mentioning this specially as I have not done this before with straight sides).
Weave in all ends carefully and
ensure that all elements of your motif(s) are well attached and ends sealed
away.
And that’s done.. yet another
project superbly executed ! Big pats on the back all around !!
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and if here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
