Wednesday, 2 March 2016

G’s EXQUISITE MOTIF BOLERO



G’s EXQUISITE MOTIF BOLERO

Yes, yet another motif pattern.. and that from someone who’d loudly said “No more motifs for me”.. teaches me never to say never, I guess.. if  I ever learn that. 
However, in my defense, this one was specially ordered. J
May I also proudly add (and gloat a wee bit?) that she so loved it that she immediately took off the jacket she was wearing and wore this the whole time - said she'd sleep in it .. and there were selfies (taken) galore too .. ooh, am I thrilled ! J

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.  
and a photograph of the inspiration...


Materials used : Today I’ve used our superb Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn, with a 3.5 mm crochet hook 

 Skill level :  Advanced.
The stitches, per se, are not difficult at all.  The combination of stitches, and the calculations involved though required some advanced skills.

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                                      ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                                      rep : Repeat
trc : Triple / treble crochet                                 yo : Yarn over
fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet
bpdc : Back Post Double Crochet

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/

fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One fpdc complete

yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from front of stitch, around st and into the back of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One bpdc complete



Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  The back of this bolero is a simple one. The front has several motifs that are joined together to give it this really classy look.  So we’ll work on one motif at a time, and join them as we go.
These instructions are very detailed and there are a lot of tips and added instructions. Please go through them all.




MOTIF 1
Make four per side


Tips :
You are an advanced crocheter and do know how to join motifs and work a complicated pattern, but as I’m writing my notes down, thought I’d add these in too. So for joining, here’s what I’ve done
1.       I’ve started with Motif # 1 and then joined the four Motif # 1’s to get a ‘diamond’ of sorts (as it joins on the top but not at the bottom of our bolero).
2.     I then started on Motif # 2, and joined this to the four Motif # 1’s.
3.     I then did Motif # 3, once again attaching it to Motif # 2 and the lower Motifs # 1.
4.     Next I did Motif # 4 and attached it to all the motifs needed to finish off.
5.     I finally finished off with the shoulder Motif # 5, which was really easy as its almost Motif # 1 with a small change.

Right then onward we go..

We start with 34 chain that is divided into 12 + 10 + 12. At the end of the 1st 12, we join to make a circle, then make a 22 chain, and we loop back and join to make a 2nd circle in the 12th ch from the end, in such a way that we have two loops of 12 ch each, and 10 ch between them. 





Start with 34 ch and make two loops of 12 ch at each end, with a chain length of 10 ch between them.  Turn.

Now here starts the little trickiness of this motif.  The two little ch-12 loops will need to be slowly ‘attached’ to the ch-10 sp in between. So with each round we make here (we’ll do a total of 3 round), ensure that you start with a sl-st in the round.
I am unable to tell you which st or where to sl-st into, as it’s going to be terribly confusing – so may I suggest that you approximate the length of your 1st dc and work in the sl-st accordingly.

Row 1 : 21 dc in the 1st ch-12 loop ; dc in each of the next 10 dc ; 21 dc in the last ch-12 loop ; [sl-st in the ch-10 length].  Turn.

Row 2 : [sl-st in the ch-10 length] ; dc in the 1st 2 dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 18 times ; ch 1, trc in the next dc ; trc in the next 9 dc ; rep (to) 20 times ; dc in the last dc ; [sl-st in the ch-10 length].  Turn.

In the following final row of our motif, there are a lot of different repeats. Please pay attention to the brackets / parenthesis.

The other thing to remember is that we need to join the two circular / oval ends, so with the last ch-3 sp before end, we will join the two ends.
I’m writing all this here, as well as in instructions below as these are fairly complicated set of instructions.

Row 3 : sl-st in the ch-10 length ; sc in the 1st 2 dc ; (2 sc in the ch-1 sp ; sc in the next dc) ; rep (to) once ; [dc ; ch 3, dc] in the next ch-1 sp ;
{sk next dc, rep [to] once} ; rep {to} 8 times ; *sk next dc , 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* 6 times ; dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next 10 trc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ; rep *to* 7 times ; rep {to} 9 times ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1 and join with the ch-3 sp on the other side of this motif ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp ; sc in the next dc ;  rep (to) 2 times ; sc in the last dc ; sl-st in the ch-1o length.
Fasten off.

Our first motif complete.

We need a total of 8 such motifs, four for each side.  The motif for the neck / shoulder is very similar but has some decorative ch-3 portions that come along the neck edge. So let’s look at that next.

Please follow the chart below for attachment of the motifs.
May I suggest that you place the motifs down on a well-fitting top / garment of the person intended or on a template you’ve roughly drawn of a top for ease of attachment.


MOTIF 2
Make one  per side



This motif is the centre motif for the first four Motif # 1 that we have per side.   For joining of this motif, please refer to the chart given and I’d suggest you join as you go (for neatness and a good finish).

Start with 12 ch. Join with a sl-st to the 1st ch.
Row 1 : 22 dc in the ch-12 loop.  Turn. Do not join.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) till end. Turn. Do not join.

Row 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; (dc ; ch 3, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ; *sk next dc , rep (to)* ; rep *to* till end. Fasten off and weave in ends.


MOTIF 3
Make one per side



Start with 24 ch. Turn. (21 dc)
Row 1 : dc in the 4th ch from hook ; dc in each dc till end.  Turn.

In the following row, you will need to check the chart to see how you need to join this to the bottom two Motifs # 1.

Row 2 : sc in the 1st dc ; (ch 3, sc in the next 2 dc) ; rep (to) 9 times ; turn and work along the vertical bar of that last dc ; 2 sc in that vertical dc bar ; turn and working along the bottom of the dc row ; sc in the 1st dc ; rep (to) 10 times till end.  Turn.


MOTIF 4
Make one per side




Start with 6 ch. Join with a sl-st to the 1st ch.
Row 1 : 8 dc in the ch-6 loop.  Turn.  Do not join.

In the following row, you will need to check the chart to see how you need to join this to the bottom of Motif # 3.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) till end.  Turn.  Do not join.

In the following row, you will need to check the chart to see how you need to join this to the the lower of Motifs # 1.

Row 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; (dc ; ch 3, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ; *sk next dc , rep (to)* ; rep *to* till end. Fasten off and weave in ends.


MOTIF 5
Make one per side



This motif forms the shoulder / neck portion and is a lot like Motif #1 with a small difference.  I am, therefore, not going to give the full explanations here all over again.

Start with 34 ch and make two loops of 12 ch at each end, with a chain length of 10 ch between them.  Turn.

Row 1 : 21 dc in the 1st ch-12 loop ; dc in each of the next 10 dc ; 21 dc in the last ch-12 loop ; [sl-st in the ch-10 length].  Turn.

Please note a small change in this row from Motif # 1.

Row 2 : [sl-st in the ch-10 length] ; dc in the 1st 2 dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 18 times ; ch 1, dc in the next 10 dc ; rep (to) 20 times ; dc in the last dc ; [sl-st in the ch-10 length].  Turn.

In the following row, you will need to check the chart to see how you need to join the lower part of this to the the tops of Motifs # 1.

Row 3 : sl-st in the ch-10 length ; sc in the 1st 2 dc ; (2 sc in the ch-1 sp ; sc in the next dc) ; rep (to) once ; [dc ; ch 3, dc] in the next ch-1 sp ;
{sk next dc, rep [to] once} ; rep {to} 16 times ; *sk next dcs , rep [to] in the the next 2 dc* ; rep *to* 3 times ; sk next 2 dc, rep {to} 17 times ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1 and join with the ch-3 sp on the other side of this motif ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp ; sc in the next dc ;  sc in the next dc ;  rep (to) 2 times ; sc in the last dc ; sl-st in the ch-1o length.
Fasten off.

Our final motif complete.


Attachment chart once again 


So once you’re done with the all the motifs needed for the two sides of your jacket, we’ll have the much much easier back – which is all simple and plain.  So let’s start on the back now, shall we?

BACK :


For the back, if you look at the finished product, it looks like its all dc all throught. So if you like that finish, you could start with a row of fdc and then work in dc all through.
I’ve however decided to start with a row of fsc, and then work a small border with post stitches.  I just love the border effect of post stitches.

Calculations :  Well, check the length of the front of your bolero.  Then measure the round of the body at that point (of the person for whom this is intended) and divide by half.  This number will be the ‘width’ of our back....
OR do what I do usually and request for a well fitting top and measure against that.. easy peasy.. and a great fit always.

Start Row 1 : Work as many fsc as needed for half the round measure of the person intended. Turn.

In the following row we’ll use our Back post double crochet bpdc stitch

Row 2 : dc in the 1st fsc ; bpdc around the post of the next fsc and around the post of each fsc till the last fsc ; dc in the last fsc.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; fpdc around the post of the next dc and around the post of each dc till the last dc ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

If you want a wider border, then go ahead and rep Rows 2 & 3 (or just Row 2 once).

Row 4 : hdc in the 1st dc ; hdc in each dc till the last dc ; hdc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 5 : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till end.  Turn.

Rep Row 5 till your project reaches the armhole level.

Next Row : sl-st in the 1st 6 sts ; hdc 2-tog over the next 2 hdc ; hdc in each hdc till last 8 hdc  hdc 2-tog over the next 2 hdc.  Turn, leaving the last 6 hdc unworked.

Next Row : Decrease row : hdc 2-tog over the 1st 2 hdc ; hdc in each hdc till the last 2 hdc ; hdc 2-tog over the last 2 hdc.  Turn.

Rep Decrease Row one (or two) more time(s) and then continue without decrease till you reach 1” from the shoulders.

There is a small neckline shaping of sorts around the neckline.  So what I’ve done work till I was about 2 rows off from the top and then reduced the neckline in just those last two rows.

Next Row : hdc in the 1st 15 hdc.  Turn.

Note :  Check your guage and see if you need 15 hdc for your shoulder.

Last Row : hdc in the 1st hdc and each hdc till end.  Turn.

When done, fasten off and then work the other side of the shoulder to mirror this side.

Finishing

Yet again let’s take a look at the attachment of sides and shoulders to the back as the motifs are pretty delicate and a wrong attachment can change the whole shape.  I have pinned up the sides before attaching (mentioning this specially as I have not done this before with straight sides).

Weave in all ends carefully and ensure that all elements of your motif(s) are well attached and ends sealed away.

 And that’s done.. yet another project superbly executed ! Big pats on the back all around !! J

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