UNIQUE
SHELLED OFF-THE-SHOULDER TOP
This
is a really pretty pattern – it is plain all the way to the shoulders and then
you have this lovely plethora of shells thrown in for just right at the top –
and I think that is a great idea… obviously you think so too.. so thanks for
joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.
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And inspired by this photo, here are my
pattern notes as I work on my project.
Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 200 gms of the All Seasons Ganga Acrowools knitting yarn with a 3.0 mm crochet hook
For
Indians :
Our lovely Indian Red Rose, White rose and Anchor knitting cotton yarns are a
good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize
cotton yarn
For
Non-Indians :
The yarn I’m using today is available only in India. It is a yarn between a
lace weight and 2-ply thickness. You
can, however, use any yarn with a suitable hook for this lovely pattern.
Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
I started this pattern off with the base of the top –
so first you need to decide how long you want the top, and check out the
measurements for that part of the body – so if you are taking this top all the
way down to the waist, you will need to work half the round waist measure for
your starting line – and if you are working it only till the mid-riff.. yup,
you got it.. it’s the half mid-riff measure you will start with.
Also note that in patterns like this, you will need to
take the largest body measure for your start count. This means that if your chest measure is
slightly more than the waist measure, that’s the measure (chest) you will use.
There are just two parts to this lovely creation, so
let’s get started. Here's all the different ways you can wear this top - major photo bombing ahead ;)
Part
1 : Front and Back
We will work two identical halves for this pattern – so
one each for front and back. There is no
pattern for the lower half of the top – lower being all portions below
armhole. You will just work a rectangle from
waist all the way to the armholes. The diagram below is what I used as my 'draft' or inspiration.
There I no stitch count for this part.
It also does not matter which stitch you use.
Start : with fsc for half the round
chest / bust / waist measure. Turn.
It does not matter if you start with fsc or fdc.
Just ensure you get the half round waist measure
right.
From this row on, you will choose your stitch, and work
that stitch all the way till your rectangle reaches neckline /armhole. You can use an hdc or dc.
Taking a look at the photograph, it looks like the
designer has used sc or hdc (as she has also used a pretty thick yarn) all the
way from waist to armhole.
What I did :
As I worked with a thinner yarn, I worked a slightly
different way.
For the first few rows, (working with the half round
waist measure), I worked one hdc in each st all the way to the end, till I had
about 2” done. It doesn’t matter how
many inches you work here – this is not part of the pattern.
I then worked a small lacy / holey pattern , by working
an hdc in 1 st, and then ch 1, skipping the next st and working a hdc in the
next st. I worked hdc in the 1st
two and last 2 sts, just to give it a firm end and making it easier to join.
So for more clarity, my ‘pattern’ is as follows :
Row 2 : hdc in the 1st 2
fsc ;
*ch 1, sk next fsc, hdc in the next hdc* ;
rep *to* till the last 2 sts,
hdc in the last 2 sts. Turn.
Row 3 : hdc in the 1st 2
hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;
*ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last ch-1 sp,
hdc in the last ch 1 sp
; hdc in the last 2 hdc. Turn.
Row 4 : hdc in the 1st 2
hdc ;
*ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last 3 hdc ;
ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the last 2 hdc. Turn.
Rep Rows 3 & 4 till you reach the armhole.
Now here’s where it gets a little tricky – so what you
should do for a perfect fit is see where your bra strap(s) start from
armhole.
The next measurement is from the top of bra strap along
the strap to the back of the same strap.
See what we are doing? We are using the bra to do more than half our
calculations.
Below is a diagram, which is not to scale – just
for explanation
OK, so you will place a marker for where your bra
straps start from under armhole for both sides (left and right).
Last Row : (Decrease for armhole
shaping) :
sl-st in
the 1st 2 or 3 hdc ;
(sl-st in the next ch-1 sp and sl-st in the next hdc) ;
rep (to) till 1st marker
*ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* till the next marker. Turn.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Work the same for the 2nd half of the top as
well.
Once done with both the front and back parts (from
waist to armhole only – so one odd looking rectangle), attach the sides. We will now work in a round for the
neckline/shoulder/off the shoulder yoke-like bit.
Part
2 : Off-the-shoulder portion
For the top bit that goes around the shoulders , stitch
count is in multiples of 9.
As we have joined the two sides, we now have a
rectangle / tube like project and from now on we will work in rounds.
For the first round, we need to create our shoulder
straps.
So this is where we use that 2nd measurement
we’d taken – for the length from the top of the bra strap, along the top of the
shoulder to the back.
On our first round, we need to try and get stitches in
our stitch count.
So first count the hdc and ch-1 sps and see how many
sts you have.
Then see how many inches you need to add for the strap.
Now check how many stitches you will need to get that measurement
and try and ensure that you work in the stitch count as well.
Not too much work now, is it? ;) ;)
But the good news is that once you get this first round
done, you are good to go J
May I suggest that before you jump into Round 2, wear
the top and see that you got the shoulder straps going the way you want them
to. OK.. get set.. let’s go… Check the diagram below (not to scale) to see how you measure for the bra strap and attachment of top bit.
So before we start on the pattern round, please
re-attach your yarn at the 1st marker and work the number of
stitches you need for the strap both sides.
Fasten off.
Check fit.
Re-attach yarn at the 1st marker again.
Preparation Round : sc in the
1stst ;
(sc in each hdc and each ch-1 sp till end) ;
[sc in each ch for the shoulder strap] ;
rep (to) once ;
rep [to] once. Turn.
Great now let’s start the pattern for the
off-the-shoulder section.
Round 1 : sc in the 1st st
;
*sk next 3 sts, 9 dc in the next st ;
sk next 3 sts, sc
in the next st* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
In the following round, we will use a “V”-st which is
(trc ; ch 2, trc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
Round 2 : “V”-st in the 1stsc
; ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in the next dc ;
*ch 3, sk next 4 dc, “V”-st in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st
“V”-st , 5 dc in the 1st“V”-st ;
*sc in the next sc ; 9 dc in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the end ;
4 dc in the same 1st
“V”-st. Turn.
The reason we’ve split the 9 dc into a set of 5 and
then 4 is to get to the centre of this 9 dc set in preparation for the
following row. Now that you are in the
centre of the 9 dc, all you do is start right here… at the 5th dc,
which is the centre. OK?
Round 4 : sc in the 1st dc
(5th dc of the 9-dc set) ;
*ch 3, sk next 4 dc, “V”-st in the next sc;
ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the end.
Turn.
Round 5 : sc in the 1st sc
;
*9 dc in the next “V”-st ; sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Rep Rounds 2 to 4 till you get the width you wish for
your shoulder bit, ending with either Round 3 or Round 5.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
