Sunday, 5 February 2017

CHIC TOP

free crochet pattern, free crochet ladies top, Anchor knitting cotton

CHIC TOP


#Blogaday 36/365

The minute I saw this top shared on Facebook, I knew it was one I’d surely make.. I just didn’t think I’d be taking it off my “to-do” list this quick. 
Please read through alllllll my notes before you start – you’ll thank yourself for having done that right at the start!

This has been a trying and difficult pattern to write out.  Had I just made it for myself, I think I’d have finished it a lot faster.. but I had to keep going back to add a note ensuring that you are able to understand what I’m doing.
SO what we’ve ended up with is a long “wordsy” instruction sheet.  That said, as I have taken all this trouble to make it ‘easy’, I would really appreciate that when you make your project you share my blog link.. and not just “Pattern from Sweet Nothings Crochet”, but the actual URL.
After all, you have benefited from this pattern, so let’s pay it forward and share it so someone else can too. 

Edited after completion : Be warned that as beautiful as this top is, it involves a lot calculation, free form work and adjustments.  I have winged it along a lot on this one – as this project is made up of several little parts all joined together to create this beauty. 

While I do not wish to turn you off this project, I will reiterate that this is not a project one can work on in front of the TV, or without counting, or for the faint-hearted. It is an advanced skill crochet project, and I do invite Intermediate crocheters who are willing to take a plunge to jump hook-first in!

Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Do check my long pinterest “to-do” list for little ladies jackets / boleros at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ladies-tops-to-make/
And inspired by these photos, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.

 


Materials usedToday I’ve used just over 5 balls (50 gms each ball) of our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook ;
Optional : Stitch marker

Size made : for 34” bust 

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 


How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                               sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                         hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                 yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                      sc : Single crochet
trc : Triple / Treble crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

Before we start on our journey, as usual, let’s see what we’re going to do here.  There are several elements in this top which each seem to be made separately and then joined together.  This does not look like its going to be an easy one, so I’d appreciate your patience in reading through to see if we can figure out just how to get this done. I’d also appreciate if you could follow along with the charts attached.  Cheers.

As before, I would really appreciate that you share my blog link with the exact page to go to, so that anyone else who wishes to make this can also enjoy this free experience.  Thanks in advance.

With most of the patterns that I’ve worked on so far, there is usually a pattern stitch count that allows one to increase the size of our project.  This project, though, is made up of motifs that are kind-of fixed sized – so to increase this project, I think you could use a thicker yarn.  Yes, the project then looks bulkier – so the second idea I have is that you work the front and back motifs in the same way (i.e same size), and then you increase the width of Part 2 (Sides of the Front Motif).

This is one that has me flummoxed for the increase – so if you do increase and get it right, please could you add your ideas / notes on this blog and let me know too.. so that we can help someone else along too.  Cheers.




PART 1 : CENTRE FRONT MOTIF



free crochet pattern, free crochet ladies top, Anchor knitting cotton

I am going to start with the first motif that forms the central part of the yoke and we’ll work outwards from here.

Start Row 1 : with 5 fsc.  Turn.

In our following row, we’ll use a Small Shell Stitch which is (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Row 2 : Shell St in the 1st fsc ; sk next 2 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ;
sk next 2 fsc, Shell St in the last fsc.  Turn.

Row 3 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ; ch 3,
sk next 3 dc, Shell St in the last Shell St.  Turn.

Row 4 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
ch 2, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, Shell St in the last Shell st.  Turn.

Row 5 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
ch 2, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 2, Shell St in the last Shell st.  Turn.

Row 6 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
[ch 2, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ;
ch 2, Shell St in the last Shell st.  Turn.

Row 7 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc] ;
ch 2, Shell St in the last Shell st.  Turn.

Row 8 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
[ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc] ;
ch 2, Shell St in the last Shell st.  Turn.

Row 9 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ; ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 2, Shell St in the last Shell st.  Turn.

Row 10 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ; ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 2, Shell St in the last Shell st.  Turn.

Row 11 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
ch 2, [2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ;
(ch 1, rep [to] once) ; rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 2, Shell St in the last Shell st.  Turn.

Row 12 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ; ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc] ; (ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ; rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 2, Shell St in the last Shell st.  Turn.

Row 13 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ; ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc] ;
{ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc} ;
(ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ; sk next 2 dc, rep (to) once ;
rep {to} once ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 2, Shell St in the last Shell st.  Turn.

In the following row, we’re going to use a dc 6-tog.  Now I do not think there is any tutorial for a “how to” but if you can work a dc 4 or 5-tog , you just do the same thing for the 6th dc, and work them all in together. This will give us our first ‘petal’ on this yoke motif.

Row 14 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
ch 3, dc-6 tog over the next 6 dc ;
[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] once ;  ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc;
ch 2, dc-6 tog over the next 6 dc ;
ch 3, Shell St in the last Shell st.  Turn.

Row 15 : {Shell St ; ch 2 , 2 dc} all in the 1st Shell St ;
ch 2, sk dc-6 tog, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc] ;
ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 2, sk dc-6 tog, rep {to} once. Turn.
We have effectively ‘split’ the Shell Stitch and will start a 2nd row of Shell Stitches.

Row 16 : Shell St in the 1st ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, Shell St in the next ch-2 sp ;
[ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc] ;
rep [to] once ; 
{ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc} ;
rep [to] 2 times ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, Shell St in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, Shell St in the next ch-2 sp ; Turn.

Row 17 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
{ch 3, Shell St in the next Shell St} ;
[ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc] ;
rep [to] once ; 
ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ;
rep [to] once ; 
rep {to} 2 times.  Turn.

In the following row, we’ll once again end off our next set of petals with a dc 6-tog.
Row 18 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
ch 5, {Shell St in the next Shell St} ;
[ch 3, dc 6-tog over the next 6 dc] ;
(ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc 
rep [to] once ;
ch 3, rep {to} once ; ch 5, rep {to} once.  Turn.

Row 19 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
(ch 2, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp) ;
ch 2, {Shell St in the next Shell St} ;
[ch 3, sk dc 6-tog , dc in the next 3 dc] ;
ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc ;
ch 3, sk next dc 6-tog, rep {to} once ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, rep {to} once.  Turn.

Row 20 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
(ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ;
ch 2, {Shell St in the next Shell St} ;
[ch 3, dc in the next 6 dc] ;
ch 3, {Shell St in the next Shell St} ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 2, rep {to} once.  Turn.

Row 21 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 2, {Shell St in the next Shell St} ;
[ch 3, dc 6-tog over the next 6 dc] ;
ch 3, {Shell St in the next Shell St} ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 2, rep {to} once.  Turn.

Row 22 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ;
(ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 3, {Shell St in the next Shell St} ;
ch 1, sk dc 6-tog, rep {to} once
ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 2, rep {to} once.  Turn.

Row 23 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 3, {2 dc in the next Shell St ; ch 2, 2 dc in the next shell st} ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
 [ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc]
rep [to] 4 times ;
ch 2, Shell St in the last Shell St.  Turn.

Row 24 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 13 times ;
ch 5, sk next 4 dc & ch-2 sp , dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 14 times ;
ch 2, Shell St in the last Shell St.  Turn. 

Fasten off and weave in ends.  We have finished with the front centre motif. 
We will turn our work 90˚ and work along the side of this centre motif.

So I’ll suggest that you iron this bit out as we’re now going to work along the sides (the Shell stitch sides) of the motif, one at a time, to create the shoulder and sides of your top in Part 2.  So despite the fact that we’re working continuously, we will call this Part 2 for convenience.


PART 2 : SIDES OF THE FRONT & BACK MOTIF

As mentioned before, we will turn our work 90˚ and work along the side of this centre motif. Re-attach your yarn at the fsc bottom corner stitch and we will work our way all the way to the top of the motif, corner Shell stitch, and then we will carry on with a chain length that will make your shoulder.  So what you now need to do is place this against a well-fitting garment, and see how many inches you’ll need for the neckline to shoulder, and you will work in that many chain.
For this section, we will use this chart





So how do you decide where we’re working our stitches as we’re working along the sides?  So each corner of the Shell st is where you will work your sc ; and you will work 2 ch between one Shell st corner and the next.  Easy enough, right?

So on this first row, I’m just going to say corner of shell st, and you know what I mean.

We will work all the way from the bottom corner Shell stitch to the top shell stitch for each side.  So we’re going to work up and down one side at a time.

Finally our stitch count for this section is 3 + 1.  Now for most part we have figured out how we will place our stitches.  The stitch count is important for the neck to shoulder section.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st corner shell st ;
*ch 2, sc in the next corner shell st* ;
rep *to* all the way till the fsc st ;
add chain in multiples of 3 + 1 till you reach the length needed for the portion from neckline to shoulder.  Turn.

In the following row, please ensure that when you work the sc in the chain length, ensure that you keep your stitch count.

Row 2 : ch 1 (turning chain), dc in the 2nd ch the hk and in each ch till you reach the 1st sc at the corner Shell st ;
* 2 dc in the ch-2 sp ; dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 4, sk next ch-2 sp and dc, 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 5, sk next ch-2 sp, 4 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in the same dc ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, sc in the space between the 2nd & 3rd dc ;
ch 2, (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc all in the next ch-5 sp)* ;
rep *to* till last dc ; 2 dc ; ch 2, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*ch 4, 5 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last ch-1 sp ;
2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 7 : sc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 2, (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc all in the next ch-5 sp) ;
ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the last ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 8 : trc in the 1st sc ; ch 3, 5 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 5, sk next 2 ch-2 sps, sc & 2 dc, 5 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ; ch 3, trc in the last sc.

Row 9 : dc in the 1st trc ; ch 1, 2 dc in the same trc ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc , sc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc all in the next ch-5 sp)* ;
rep *to* till the last trc ; [2 dc ; ch 1, dc all in the last trc].  Turn.

Row 10 : dc in the 1st dc ; 3 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp and 2 dc, 5 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ; rep *to* till last ch-1 sp ;
3 dc in the last ch-1 sp ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

I’m going to keep the front aside at this point, and work on a similar back motif and sides first – and then return to work on joining them both together.  Bit like a jigsaw puzzle, ain’t it.. wonder if the designer meant it like this.. hmmmm


PART 3 : CENTRE BACK MOTIF







For the back, we once again start with the centre back motif, and then work two sides of the back, like we did the front.

Note : Even before we start, notes ! I am starting with 11 fsc, and this will give us 3 pointed chevron ends.  This started off 1.5” wide and the base width is 18”, with a height of about 15” down the bottom of the flower tip  . So if you want an increase here, work in multiples as given below.

Start : with 11 fsc (or multiples of 3 + 2).

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc ;
*ch 2, sk 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the last fsc.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc ;
*ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc) ;
*ch 2,  dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc , 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ;
*ch 2,  dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ;
*ch 2,  dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc) ;
*ch 2,  dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc) ;
*ch 2,  dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 8 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc) ;
*ch 2,  dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 9 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 4 dc) ;
*ch 2,  dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 10 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next 4 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 4 dc) ;
*ch 2,  dc in the next 4 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 11 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next 5 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 4 dc) ;
*ch 2,  dc in the next 5 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

From the following row, we’ll work in a Shell Stitch which is (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-2 sp). 
Please do not confuse this with the earlier Shell Stitch for the Front motif.

Row 12 : dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-1 sp ; *ch 7, sk next 11 dc, Shell Stitch in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 7, sk next 11 dc, [3 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp] ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 13 : sl-st into the 1st Shell Stitch ; Shell Stitch in the same Shell Stitch ;
*ch 4, dc in the next ch-7 sp ; ch 4, Shell Stitch in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 14 : sl-st into the 1st Shell Stitch ; Shell Stitch in the same Shell Stitch ;
*ch 5, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, Shell Stitch in the next Shell Stitch* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 15 : sl-st into the 1st Shell Stitch ; Shell Stitch in the same Shell Stitch ;
*ch 5, 3 dc in the next dc ; ch 5, Shell Stitch in the next Shell Stitch* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 16 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ;
*(2 dc in the ch-2 sp ; ch 2, 2 dc in the same ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 4 dc in the next ch-5 sp) ; ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; ch 2, sk next dc, 4 dc in the next ch-5 sp, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 17 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; Shell Stitch in the same ch-2 sp ;
*ch 4, sk the next 6 dc ; (dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
2 dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp) ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
ch 4, sk the next 6 dc, Shell Stitch in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 17 : sl-st into the 1st Shell Stitch ;
(3 dc ; ch 3, 3 dc all in the same Shell Stitch) ;
*ch 5, sk the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 8 dc ;
ch 5, sk next 2 dc , rep (to) in the next Shell Stitch* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 18 : sl-st in the 1st 3 dc ;
*(5 dc ; ch 2, 5 dc all in the next ch-2 sp) ; dc in the next 3 dc of Shell Stitch ;
[ch 5, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 5, sk next 3 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc of Shell Stitch* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 19 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; Shell Stitch in the same ch-2 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 6 dc ;
ch 4, sc in the space between the next 2 dc ; ch 4 dc in the next 6 dc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 dc, Shell Stitch in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 20 : dc in the 1st 3 dc of Shell st ;
*(3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc all in the next ch-2 sp) ; dc in the next 3 dc of Shell st ; ch 2, dc in the next dc ; ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next 4 dc ; ch 5, sk sc, dc in the next 4 dc ; ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

For the next part of this motif, I’m going to try and add one part of our earlier Front Floral motif.

Row 21 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; Shell St in the same 1st ch-2 sp ;
*ch 2, sk next 4 dc, dc in the next 2 dc ;
(ch 4, sk next 2 ch-sps & dc, dc in the next dc) ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc ;
[ch 4, sk next 2 ch-sps & dc, dc in the next 2 dc] ;
ch 2, sk next 4 dc, Shell St in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till last ch-2 sp. Turn.

This next row gets a little complicated (huh! Like it wasn’t earlier? ;) ) Please pay attention to the ch-3 and ch-4 sps instructions.

Row 22 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
*ch 4, sk next ch-2 sp & 2 dc, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, sk next dc,  2 dc in each of the next 3 dc ;
ch 4, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 4, Shell St in the next Shell St* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 23 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
*ch 4, sc in the next sc ;
ch 4, (2 dc in the each of the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ;
2 dc in the each of the next 2 dc) ;
ch 4, sc in the next sc ; ch 4, Shell St in the next Shell St* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 24 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
*ch 5, sk sc , (dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the each of the next 2 dc ;
dc in the next dc) ; dc in the next 2 dc ; rep (to) once ;
ch 5, sk sc , Shell St in the next Shell St* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 25 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
*ch 5, dc in the next 3 dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc) ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 5, Shell St in the next Shell St* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 26 : Shell St in the 1st Shell St ;
*ch 5, dc in the next 3 dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc) ;
[ch 1, 3 dc in each of the next 2 dc] ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 5, Shell St in the next Shell St* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 27 : sl-st into the 1st Shell St ch-2 sp , 2 dc in the same ch-2 sp ;
(ch 2, 2 dc in the same ch-2 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ;
*ch 3, [dc in the next dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc] ;
ch 1, {dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc} ;
ch 2 , 2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 2, rep [to] once ;
ch 1, rep {to} once ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp of the next Shell st ;
rep (to) 3 times* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

In the following row, we’ll use a dc 4-tog to finish off one flower petal.
Row 28 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp , 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, 2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
*ch 3, {dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc} ;
ch 3, [dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 3, rep {to} once ;
rep (to) 3 times.  Turn.

Row 29 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp , 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, 2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
*ch 3, sk next dc 4-tog, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc] ;
ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ;
rep [to] once ;
sk dc 4-tog, rep (to) 3 times* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 30 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp , 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, 2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
*ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc ;
[ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc] ;
ch 2, 2 dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ;
rep [to] once ;
rep (to) 3 times* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 31 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp , 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ;
(ch , 2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
*ch 4, {dc in the next dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc} ;
ch 1, rep {to} once ;
< ch 3, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc > ;
ch 1, rep < to > once ;
rep (to) 3 times* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 32 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp , 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, 2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
*ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc ; ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;
ch 4, 2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

From this row on, we’re only going to work on the flower petals.. so we will be basically skipping through all the Shell stitches.  To sk, rather than tediously sl-st all through, I have opted to work a (sc ; ch 3, sk sts, sc in next st).

Now we’re all advanced crocheters here.. so  I am just going to say sk through till… and I know that you will understand that we need to work a ch-3 set all the way till where we need to be. 
OR you could fasten off and then re-attach your yarn in the dc after the dc 4-tog.
Cheers.

Row 33 : [sc in the 1st dc ;  and ch-3, sk sts and sc in the next st all the way till the dc after the dc 4-tog]
dc in the next 3 dc ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc ; Turn.

We will work on and finish this one flower before going on to the next flower.
Row 34 : dc in the next 3 dc ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc ; Turn.

Row 35 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 36 : dc 4-tog over all 4 dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rep Rows 33 – 36 for the next set of flowers as well.  Fasten off and weave in ends.



PART 4  : BACK (SIDES)



For the back, we once again repeat of Part 2 – Sides of the front motif.
The only thing that you need to remember here is that with the front motif, we started with a smaller base and worked up to a wider top , but with the back motif, we’ve worked exactly opposite.  So we now have a pretty wide lower portion.
See how many inches have been added onto the front with the side Part 2 and then decide where you want to start and end this for this section.
Yes, a lot of guess work.. but hey! You’ve come this far and worked it through.. so plod on.. we’ll get through it.

I’ve basically placed my back portion on top of the front yoke portion, and then worked out where I need to start and end the side motifs. 

I’ve tapered off some of the pattern towards the bottom sides, to give it a shape and take the pattern as far down as I could..

A bit of free form here too.. as you can see… but hey, we’re learning something new.

Once we’re done with this, we will join the shoulders and then work the sides.

There is this chart that I found as well, just in case you want to make a different pattern for the back, here goes




PART 5 : NECKLINE SIDES

Yet again, I’ll suggest you iron out the front and back portions you’ve made and place them one on the other to see what we need to work on for the back neckline.
The neckline bit is going to be a little tricky for the back.

For the front, you just ran a length of chain off the end of your work, and it panned out OK.  Here though, we’ve worked top to bottom and we’ve got our back width worked out. 

So what I’ve done is now work the Part 2 pattern from the neckline end and attach on to the back (sides) part that we’ve just worked on. We are mirroring the front neck section, but in a different way.


PART 6 : FINISHING

For the final part, I’ve gone totally free form. 
For the sides :
So first I’ve joined up my shoulders, and marked the armhole opening out.  I’ve then basically worked the 1st 3 row of Part 2 (Sides) – first working an sc and ch-sp all across the side of work ; then worked dc as we did before, and finally Row 3 which is the (dc ; ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in the next dc).  I’ve then worked just Rows 2 & 3 to finish off the sides.  Once done, join sides.

For the neckline :
I felt that the neck was too low and a little loose, so I just ran a row of sc all around and tightened it – finishing with a row of picot.  I used a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk) every other stitch. 

For the armhole :
I liked the shelled finish, so I’ve left that as it is.

For the front bottom sides & centre :
Now that you’ve joined the back & front, you’ll see that the back is longer than the front (as intended) – so there’s some more free form that we will work on now.  See the corner between the back and front – and see the pattern we have going?  It’s all dc one row and all ch-sps one row.  So we just start on that corner with a ch-5 sp, and join it to the front to back.  Each row we work in a row of dc, and end it joining back to front once again.  The following row, work a row of ch-sps and join it front to back again.  I continued this till I reached the back length – but as you’ll see we still have a little bit of a gap in the centre front. So once again, working between the piece you’ve just worked and the centre front, work the two rows again (i.e all dc ; all ch-sps) till your two rows meet at the centre front.

Fasten off.  Weave and glue down all ends.  


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