DELICATE SHELLED CHEVRON YOKE
Welcome back to Sweet Nothings Crochet’s free
patterns blog.
Today, yet another plain t-shirt / top is
getting a D.I.Y-ed to jazz it up just a little bit. I found this really interesting chevron plus
shelled pattern as, and I plan on making this as a yoke.
Here’s a tweak (or an idea?). I just have sufficient yarn for a yoke, so
that’s what I’m making – but as I reached the end of my creation, I found that
this would make a really lovely top too.
So, if you’re ok with a straight finish to the armholes, then hey ..
here’s the idea – go ahead and make this into a top. I think this will make an absolutely awesome
top.. chevrons n shells always do.
For the sleeves then, you could just go around
and add a row of shells or “V’-sts (or maybe the shells from the body of the
top), neatly spaced and that’d look super – as well being a neat finish to the
armholes. Experiment and be different
Who knows.. I may make the top too someday.. so
let’s see if you beat me to it. Do
remember to tag me if you do make it, so I can see your beautiful creation too.
As I work on this pattern, I’ve
written down my notes that I share with you. Oh, and this is the photograph
that got me started on this journey.
Thank you for joining me.
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For Indians : The yarn I have used is also known as the Kamal kadai embroidery thread. You could use
Anchor or
Red rose knitting cotton as well. The yarn I’ve used is the polyester light cone yarn, (not the purse yarn)
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
Skill level: Intermediate to Advanced.
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
ch(s) : chain(s ch-sp
: chain space
sp(s) : space(s) rep
: Repeat
hk : hook yo
: Yarn over
sk : Skip lp(s)
: Loop(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)
fdc : Foundation double crochet
dc : Double crochet
Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)
Stitches used : Using US terminology
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Pattern instructions : (Using U.S
terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This is a straight simple
pattern.
We work one side of the yoke at
a time.
The pattern is the same for both
front and back.
The only difference (if you so desire) is the depth of the
neckline.
Our first row is worked for
half the round chest / bust measure.
Now you can be adventurous and
make a top with this pattern, and if you are doing that, then the first row you
will work is half the round waist measure (or half the round measure of the
chest /bust, whichever is the larger round measure).
I am going to work all the way
straight past the armhole and neckline and work the decrease for the
shoulders. So let’s start.
Our stitch count is in multiples of 13 + 1.
Start : with fsc in
multiples of 13 + 1 for the half the round chest / bust measurement.
In this pattern we use a Special
trc 4-tog (starting and ending of our rows) and a Special 7-trc tog that is
worked over 7 sts. Check the ‘how-to’
for this stitch.
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Trc 7-tog : Triple / treble 7-together : *yo two times, insert hk into st ;
yo and pull up a lp ; (2 lps on hk) ;
[yo 2 times, insert hk into the next st ; draw through 2 lps] (3 lps on hk) ;
rep [to] 5 more times ; yo and draw through all 8 lps on hk.
One Special trc 7-tog complete.
Special Trc 4-tog : Special Triple / treble 4-together :
*yo two times, insert hk into st ; yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ;
[yo 2 times, insert hk into the next st ; draw through 2 lps] (3 lps on hk) ;
rep [to] 2 more times ; yo and draw through all 5 lps on hk.
One Special trc 4-tog complete.
Row 1 : trc in the 1st
fsc ;
*(ch 1, trc in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 1, Special trc 7-tog
over the next 7 fsc) ;
rep *to* till the last 4 fsc ;
rep (to) 4 times in the
last 4 fsc.
In the next row, we will work a
dc 2-tog over 2 sts skipping the Special trc 7-tog.
Now usually when we work a dc 2-tog, we work
over 2 dc’s.
In this pattern though, on
either side of our Special trc 7-tog, we have two ch-1 sps.
So we work our dc 2-tog over these two ch-1
sps each time.
Here’s how we do that.
We work the 1st leg
of the dc 2-tog in the ch-sp just before
the Special trc 7-tog,
sk the Special trc 7-tog and work the 2nd
leg of the dc 2-tog in the ch-sp just after
the Special trc 7-tog.
Easy enough, right? Now let’s name this our Special dc 2-tog.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st
trc ;
(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next trc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
*[skipping the next Special trc
7-tog,
Special dc 2-tog over the next two ch-1 sps] ;
{dc in the next trc ; rep
(to) 2 times} ;
2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep {to} once ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the end ;
dc in the last trc 4-tog. Turn.
Row 3 : trc in the 1st
dc ;
*(ch 1, trc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 1, Special trc 7-tog
over the next 7 dc)* ;
rep *to* till the last 4 dc ;
Special trc over the last 4
dc.
Rep Rows 2 & 3 (ending with
Row 2) till you have a yoke (or top) of the length you desire. So let’s carry on till we reach the neckline
level and work our shoulder decreases.
Now here’s where calculations
come in.
Fold your work in half and figure out the two corners for the
neckline.
Place markers there.
We will
use these markers for our first row and will work from one armhole corner to
the 1st marker and back.
Before you put your markers
down, let’s also see our pattern.
We
have these two sets of pattern stitches – one is our Special trc 7-tog and then
we have these 6 dcs with ch-1 sps separating them.
So our decrease will work till the last Special
trc 7-tog before marker, and then we decrease in the dc’s in between.
Let’s get on with it, shall we?
Note that we are probably going
to be at different points on our neckline and shoulder, so use the instructions
below as a reference, and work as many stitches as you would need to along the neckline
edge.
The armhole edge stays in a
straight line, so that end, your start stitches stay steady. If you have a different count along the
neckline edge (from the instructions below), do not worry, as long as you are
following pattern, and have the edge coming along well. Do note that you could
write down your pattern difference, so that it will be easy when you are
working the other side of the shoulder as well as the back of the yoke / top
neckline.
Shoulder decrease :
Shoulder Row 1 : (Armhole end) :
trc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1, trc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2
times ;
ch 1, Special trc 7-tog over the next 7 dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
ch 1,
Special trc 7-tog over the next 7 dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
Special trc 4-tog
over the next 4 sts. Turn.
Shoulder Row 2 : (Neckline end) :
dc in the 1st trc 4-tog ;
(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the
next trc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
[skipping the next Special trc
7-tog,
Special dc 2-tog over the next two ch-1 sps] ;
{dc in the next trc ; rep
(to) 2 times} ;
2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep {to} once ;
rep [to] once ;
dc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) 3 times. Turn.
Shoulder Row 3 : trc in the 1st
dc ;
*(ch 1, trc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
[ch 1, Special trc 7-tog
over the next 7 dc] ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
rep [to] once ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
sk
last st. Turn.
Shoulder Row 4 : dc in the 1st
trc ;
(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next trc) ;
rep (to) once ;
[skipping the next Special trc
7-tog, Special dc 2-tog over the next two ch-1 sps] ;
{dc in the next trc ; rep
(to) 2 times} ;
2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep {to} once ;
rep [to] once ;
rep
(to) 3 times. Turn.
Shoulder Row 5 : trc in the 1st
dc ;
*(ch 1, trc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
[ch 1, Special trc 7-tog
over the next 7 dc] ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
rep [to] once ;
rep (to) till end. Turn.
Rep Rows 4 & 5 till your
shoulder straps are done.
Fasten off and
weave in ends.
Re-attach your yarn at the marker or the mirrored stitch for the other side of
your shoulder straps and continue all the way to complete this end as well.
Once done, fasten off and weave in ends.
We’ve completed one side of the
yoke (or top).
Mirror these instructions
for the other side of the yoke or top, deciding only how deep you would like
your neckline for that section.
Join both shoulders on
completion, and sides (if you’ve made a top).
And can you believe how
beautiful this yoke is !
Or if you have decided to make this a full top, then
that’s even more beautiful, isn’t it?
You can give yourself a huge
pat in the back, as though this is a really easy pattern, this one has been a
real fun one – and you’ve figured it out too. So yaay !!
Finishing :
Our finishing here involves
attaching the shoulders and the sides as well, if needed.
As the edges of the neckline
and base of yoke (or top) are nice and wavy , I’d like to leave it like
that. You could, however, decide to do a
sc or hdc in each stitch all around, just to strengthen that edge.
Then you need to weave in and
tidy up of all those loose ends. Ensure you glue it all down, as the worst
thing is to have a little bit of thread peeping through where its not supposed
to be and ruining all your hard work!
If you’re working a yoke, then
attach the yoke to the t-shirt, and you could then cut away the t-shirt bits
from inside of the yoke, so that you can show some skin and of course your
lovely crochet work out too.
and just because I think the recipient looks super happy and super beautiful, I'm gonna photo bomb you just a bit..
And that’s done.. yet another
project brilliantly executed !
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
I have a few yokes already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those
free patterns … here you go
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