Sweet Nothings Crochet: COWLED LACY TOP

COWLED LACY TOP

This is a superb cowled lacy vest that has been taunting me for a long time. Sadly this is a knitted creation – “Sad” because I do not knit as much as I crochet. But I was determined to try and recreate this in crochet .. so come along and let’s see how we make this lovely creation.

Thank you for joining me.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.

Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog

Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.

All my blogs can be printed. Find the printer friendly (green) link on the right side of this blog. You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.

Remember that you only print if absolutely essential. Save paper – Save Our Earth.

Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.

Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.

To purchase this or similar yarn online, click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well.

This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.

And inspired by this photo and this link http://www.liveinternet.ru/users/4077401/post155874414/ , here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 150 gms of our Indian Oswal 3-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : You could use Anchor or Red rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn

For Non-Indians : You can use any knitting cotton or acrylic to make this creation – due to the lightness and laciness of the pattern, I’d suggest a lighter yarn (i.e lace-weight rather than worsted). The international yarns I’ve used of (that I’d suggest) are Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons.

Size made : 34" (S/M)

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level.

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
What is a slip stitch :  https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc :  https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 3-tog made.
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog :   Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch   st(s) : Stitch(es)
hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over ch : Chain
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog (as well as through the blog) for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

I have worked this pattern bottom up.

So, our pattern here starts from the waist and is worked up to the neckline / shoulders.

Calculations :

a) Decide on the length you wish for this top.

b) As always remember that as we are working this waist up, you need to keep both waist and chest measures in hand, and work with the measure that is more.

c) We will be working a crochet ribbing along the bottom edge – but we will work this edging after we finish off both sides of our top

d) You need to decide how wide you want the ribbing for the base of the top. We will work it in one continuous motion, after we attach the back and front of the top. So say you want this ribbing to be 2”, and you want a top length of 21”, you will work only 19” from start to shoulder finish. Got it?

e) After we finish off with the length of the top (all the way to the shoulders), we will join the sides, and then work a continuous ribbing along the base of the top.

f) We will work a similar ribbing along the armhole, so decide the length of sleeve and round arm measure at that point.

g) You can decide to rib only the cowl, or work only a neckline with the ribbed effect (not a full cowl).

h) You can also decide to leave the sleeves and base of top unfinished (without ribbing).

i) We will work a similar ribbing along the neckline (cowl), so decide the depth for neckline (i.e where you want to start the cowled neck from).

j) Finally you need to decide the length of your cowl (ie how far up the neck you want it to go and then how much you wish it to fold over down the neck)

You can make this project in any size , using any yarn and a suitable hook

Part 1 : Front and back

Make two

The pattern is the same for both the front and back.

Remember if you are working a ribbing, then that will add to your length.

Before we start off, here’a tweak for you. The body of the pattern is made with ch-sps. You can decide how “holey” / lacy you want it. I have chosen to work with ch-3 sps, but you could work with ch-4 or ch-5 sps as well.

Using a larger number of chain mean :

a) Work moves faster ; but

b) Work is a lot more holey/lacy

You can also start with fsc (foundation single crochet) or fdc (foundation double crochet) or a regular chain start. I chose to start with fdc.

I will always urge to try this lovely start as it gives a stretch and flexibility for a top, like no other start I know of.

The second tweak :

You can work this as one large rectangle from waist to neckline without an increase for the sleeve which is the easy way to do this ; OR

You can opt to increase for the sleeve, which is a slightly difficult method.

There is no difference in the pattern, just an increase in level of difficulty

Recommended : If you decide to work the Easy route, please make a rectangle all the way from the waist to the sleeve. May I also suggest that you work this a little looser than waist/chest measure as we are anyway going to tighten it up with the sleeve and the bottom of the top.

OK. Let’s start with the top.

For the sake of convenience, may I suggest that you use the same start stitch count, no matter what chain spacing you use later on for the top.

Our stitch count for our top is in multiples of 3 + 1

Start with fdc in multiples of 3 + 1 for half the round waist / chest measure. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st fdc ;

*ch 3, sk next 2 fdc, sc in the next fdc* ;

rep *to* till last fdc ;

dc in the last fdc. Turn

Row 3 : sc in the 1^st dc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, sc in the last dc. Turn

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st sc ; ch 3, sc in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, sk ch-1 sp, dc in the last sc. Turn

Rep Rows 3 & 4 till you reach the neckline / armhole level. (Check Note below)

Note : In case you are using the recommended easy route, you will work a rectangle all the way to the neckline level

If working the recommended easy route, go straight to Part 3 - Neckline

In case you are using the other idea, you will work a rectangle all the way to the armhole level.

If working the this idea, carry on to Part 2 – Armhole / Sleeve ideas

Part 2 : Armhole /Sleeve ideas

In case you have opted to add in a small sleeve, then these are the instructions / ideas.

For the small sleeve that we are making, we need to work in a small increase under each armhole.

This is where you need to decide the length of your little sleeve.

Add as many chains as you need for the length of your sleeve in multiples of 3 + 1

Once you have finished adding the chain to one side ; fasten off and re-attach yarn at the 1^st st on the other side. Add in the same number of chains this end as well.

You will now turn and continue working in pattern all the way from the chains, past the centre of the body (that you have worked this far), till the end of the chain length for the other side of the sleeve.

Work in pattern all the way till you reach the neckline level.

Part 3 : Neckline Decrease ideas

1) Decide how deep and how wide you want your neckline. Place markers.

2) Place a marker on either side to mark the width of neck. For this, fold your project in half, find the centre and then place 2 markers at equal distances away from the centre which will be the side markers.

3) Continue working in pattern all the way from one side till the first marker and then work back to the end of sleeve or the armhole.

4) You will continue this all the way to the shoulder level.

5) Once you finish one side, re-attach your yarn at the 2^nd marker (for neckline) and then work all the way to the shoulder.

You have finished one side of the top.
Repeat all these instructions for the other side of the top as well.

Part 4 : Joining sides and shoulders

Once you have completed the back and front, use one of the links given above - a "how to join" :

1) Join the shoulders first.

2) Join the sides, leaving an armhole opening (in case you have worked the recommended Easy Route. In case you have worked in a sleeve, then join the sides and the base of the sleeves till end

Part 5 : Finishing

In this section, we are going to be finishing three parts of the top : The base ; the sleeve ends and the cowl neckline.

As per the photograph, you will see that all three parts are ribbed. However, once again, you can decide what you want to do, and how far you wish to rib the end.

As mentioned earlier, you can decide to rib only the cowl, or work only a neckline with the ribbed effect (not a full cowl).

You can also decide to leave the sleeves and base of top unfinished (without ribbing).

So go through the ideas here for ribbing and decide.

The idea for all three is the same. We make our ribbed effect using the fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet stitch. Check the link below for a “how to”.

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Base of top :

1) You have already decided how many inches of ribbing you wish for this end.

2) You have joined the sides of the top, so you will work in one continuous movement all around.

3) Keep the top in such a way that the right side of work is facing you. To do this, you will keep all the work on your lap, and only have the fdc starting row away from you. Got it?

4) Work a dc in the 1^st fdc ; *fpdc in the next fdc and in each fdc all the way around*. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

5) You will continue working an fpdc in each fpdc all around. As it is usually difficult to work a fpdc in the 1^st st, you can opt to work a dc in that 1^st dc all through.

If you feel that the waist is a little loose and you want it a little fitted, work a few fpdc 2-tog sts evenly spaced to cinch the base.

Front Post Double Crochet 2-together : fpdc 2-tog : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

This is the fpdc stitch worked over 2 stitches together. View the video at https://youtu.be/Kljuw4dnDzI

6) Once you have the length needed for the top / ribbed base, fasten off and weave in ends.

Armhole ending / sleeve ending :

Use the same idea to rib the end of the sleeve as well. The only difference is that we will need to work in a line of sc / dc before we start our ribbed edge

1) Keep the round arm and round armhole measure ready. Use whichever measurement is larger (as measure when you are done with the sleeve)

2) Run a round of either sc or dc all around the sleeve/armhole edge. Work 3 sc / dc in each ch-3 sp all around, skipping all sc all around.

3) If you have worked a round of sc first, then work a round of dc in each sc all around.

4) Before you continue, check that the sleeve / round arm is not too tight. If it is, go back and add in a few stitches to loosen – you can add stitches in the sc’s and it will work out.

5) Work a dc in the 1^st fdc ; *fpdc in the next fdc and in each fdc all the way around*. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

6) You will continue working an fpdc in each fpdc all around. As it is usually difficult to work a fpdc in the 1^st st, you can opt to work a dc in that 1^st dc all through.

If you feel that the waist is a little loose and you want it a little fitted, work a few fpdc 2-tog sts evenly spaced to cinch the base. Check the video link above if needed.

7) Once you have the length needed for the top / ribbed base, fasten off and weave in ends.

8) Repeat these instructions for the 2^nd sleeve as well.

Neckline cowl :

Basically we’re going to use the same technique / idea that we have used for the sleeve here – and after having done the two sleeves, you are surely an expert. Once again, we will need to work in a line of sc / dc before we start our ribbed edge. So as before, work 3 dc in each ch-3 sp all around.

Do not worry : When you complete your round of dc, if it looks floppy and sags – it is OK. The fpdc will give it structure and bring it together. Remember if it is too loose, you can always work in fpdc 2-tog as you may have before to cinch it all up together.

The only thing that you need to keep in mind here is your round head measure. After you are done with the neckline, your top needs to slip in over your head – as we are not working an opening along the back.

Well, that said, I can give you ideas on how to work an opening along the back, so read on..

But first for all of us who are not working an opening :

Not that this matters, but just so it looks neat, re-attach your yarn at the centre back, or along the shoulder line. We will work in rounds for this section too.

There is one last thing you need to consider.

When working a fpdc, one side has the ribbed effect that goes vertically, and the other side has the effect going horizontally. Which one would you prefer?

If you like the front side of the fpdc stitch to show up when you turn your cowl down, you will work the fpdc stitch with the wrong side of work facing you.

This means that when you fold the cowl over, the right side of fpdc will show up. Got that?

Obviously, if you are ok with either side showing up (after all, both sides of this stitch are gorgeous), then you can work in rounds, with any side facing you

1) Work a round of 3 dc in each ch-3 sp all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st

2) Work a dc in the 1^st dc ; *fpdc in the next dc and in each dc all the way around*. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

3) You will continue working an fpdc in each fpdc all around. As it is usually difficult to work a fpdc in the 1^st st, you can opt to work a dc in that 1^st dc all through.

If you feel that the cowl is not coming together and is a little loose, work a few fpdc 2-tog sts evenly spaced to cinch it. Keep in mind the looseness of yarn ; your work tension and the stretch of yarn. Remember that fpdc stitches give more stretch to the yarn than a regular dc stitch.

4) How far do you work your cowl portion? Once again, go back to the first set of measurements I’d asked you to keep handy. The cowl starts from the neckline and goes up the neck. Decide how far up the neck you want it and then how much of a fold you’d like.

5) Continue working in post stitches all the way till you reach the end. Fasten off neatly and weave in ends.

Neckline cowl for working with opening along the back :

Here too we’re going to do the same thing as we have in the earlier section – so please read through “pattern instructions” for the earlier section.

All we will do differently, is work in rows here.

1) First off, you will work the 3 dc in each ch-3 sp all around. Turn at the end of row

2) Once again decide which side you want showing up when you have your cowl thrown down.

3) Work a dc in the 1^st dc ; *fpdc in the next dc and in each dc till end*. Turn.

4) Work a dc in the 1^st dc ; *bpdc in the next fpdc and in each fpdc till end*. Turn

5) Work a dc in the 1^st dc ; *fpdc in the next bpdc and in each bpdc till end*. Turn.

6) You will repeat instructions in Points 4 & 5 till you reach the length needed.

7) To finish, you will need to attach in either buttons or a zipper along the back. First may I suggest you run a round of sc all the way up and down your end row. Remember to work 2 sc in each bar of dc for evenness.

8) How to attach a zipper :

http://frogknitting.blogspot.se/2013/08/att-sy-i-dragkedjor-installing-zippers.html?m=1

This has been an interesting pattern, hasn’t it – but I am sure you are totally in love with the end result.

Do come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/

OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/

Join me on YouTube at http://youtube.com/shyamanivas

And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas

Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/

Have a great day and see you soon.

Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/06/rangeela-top.html