GRANNY SQUARE BOHO / BEACH TOP
This is an easy granny square adapted to make a
top, and if you have made one granny square before, this one is going to be an easy
peasy blast.
This is surely going to be the first in a long
line of boho / beach tops – so keep an eye out for my blogs.
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Come along and let’s work on this beauty
together.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size : 34" (S/M)
Difficulty level
: Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.
The “Advanced” skills are not for the stitches
used (stitches are basic). It applies to
the use of techniques to join the squares and finishing. That said, this is not that hard – so come
along and enjoy this creation.
Stitches used :
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
trc : Treble / triple crochet
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This pattern uses granny squares to make the
front and back of the beach top.
There are five parts to today's creation.
Before
we head off let’s work on a few ideas and see what we are creating.
You will need the following measurements
a) Round
Chest
b) Neckline
depth
c) Length for your top (as this will help you decide how many squares you need)
You will need to decide whether you are working
a back to this creation.
You could do
just the front and have strings to hold the back together. If you do this, this is one afternoon’s work
– literally decide you are going to the beach tomorrow, and whip this up today!
So right
off, let’s see what you will do if you are only working a front.
You will use this basic granny square pattern
and make only 3 squares, and then you will attach them as per the instructions
given here.
Finally you will work a strap
from shoulder to one of the corner points of the diamond /granny square that
will form the armhole, and you will run another strap from the same square
corner for holding the back together.
See the diagram below (not to scale, for information only)
If you are
working back and front, you will work 6 squares / diamonds and follow the
instructions below.
I am going to give you the basic pattern for a
granny square, without indicating colours.
This is where you creativity and combinations come in.
I will then tell you how to attach the squares
to get the basic top and tassels done – and you are free to do a little beach
craziness too
Part 1 : Basic
granny square pattern
Make six
pieces
What is an
easy way to increase the size of my granny square ? Use a longer stitch. So if you find that you need *just that
little bit more* for your square to get the round chest measure, change the dc
to a trc and you’ll get the slight increase.
Conversely,
if you find that the trc is working too much, then the dc is the way to go for
you.
Start Round
1 : with a magic circle and work 8 sc in that circle.
Join with
a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Round
2 : 2 dc in
the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with
a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Round
3 : trc in
the 1st dc ;
(ch 2, trc
in the next dc) ;
rep (to)
all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc.
In this
round, we will work two sets of 3 dc in the four corner ch-2 sps and form the
start of our granny square.
Round
4 : sl-st
into the 1st ch-2 sp ;
[3 dc in
the ch-2 sp ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-2 sp]
*(ch 1, 3
dc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 1, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to*
all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc.
Round 5 : sl-st
into the 1st ch-2 corner sp ;
[3 dc in
the ch-2 corner sp ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-2 sp]
*(ch 1, 3
dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 1, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to*
all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc.
Round 6 : sl-st
into the 1st ch-2 corner sp ;
[2 dc in
the ch-2 corner sp ;
<ch 2, 2 dc in the same ch-2 sp> ;
rep <to>
once]
*(ch 1, 2
dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 1, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to*
all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc.
Round
6 : dc in the
1st 2 dc (corner) ;
[2 dc in
the ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
*(dc in
the next ch 1 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
dc in the
next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to*
all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
dc.
Part 2 : Joining
Granny squares
Using one
of the joining techniques given below, join your granny squares.
How to place your granny squares to join
To join,
turn your squares such that they become diamond shaped and then join two sides
of the centre one to one side each of the side diamonds.
We have spun our
squares into diamonds, Ta .. da!
Look at
the diagram below to get an idea of how to place them before joining.
How do you
join the squares evenly?
a)
Count the
number of stitches you have on each side and place a marker at the 2 corner
points of two squares
b)
Join the
squares neatly till the two corner points
c)
After
having joined Squares (diamonds) 1 & 2, ensure that you once again place a
marker for the two corner points of the 3rd square and join this one
neatly too.
d)
Ensure
that you have a neat join at the “V” between the 3 squares / diamonds which
will form your neckline.
e)
Work with
the same care for the other side of your top as well.
f)
You now
have a “V” (facing downwards)> We
will work your shoulder straps from the top 2 points of the side diamonds.
g)
We will
join the back and front from the side two points of the two side diamonds.
h)
We will
hang tassels off the lower two points of the diamonds. Got it?
Part 3 : Border
around diamonds
Now that
you have the diamonds joined, let us run a small border all around, before we
make our shoulder straps and join the back to the front.
a)
Re-attach
your yarn at any point on the side of one of the diamonds / granny squares.
b)
Mark the
corner points of the top.
c)
Run a
round of sc all around the squares, with 3 sc in each corner st.
d)
Work a sc
2-tog (single crochet 2-tog) over the 2 sts in the “V” point / neckline. Check the top of this blog for a “how to”
e)
Work
stitches such that you get a stitch count in multiples of 3 all around.
Once you
have finished this preparation, lets’ start on the actual border.
Just so it
looks really good, you must ensure that you get a dc in that centre
stitch of the “V” of your top and in the two corners where you will work your
shoulder straps. So in case it’s easier
for you, re-attach your yarn at one of these points, counting off to ensure
that you will get the dc in these three points.
Round
1 : dc in the
1st sc ;
(ch 2, sk
next 2 sc, dc in the next sc) ;
*rep (to) till
the 1st corner marker ;
[ch 2, dc in the same corner marker]*
;
rep *to*
all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
We will
work 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, and work 3 sc in each ch-2 corner sp. The corner sp for the following round will be
the (dc ; ch 2, dc) all in the same sp that forms a “V”. Got it?
Round
2 : sc in the
1st dc ;
(3 sc in
the next ch-2 sp ; sc in the next dc) ;
*rep (to) till
the 1st corner “V” sp ;
3 sc in that corner ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all
around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Now in the
final border round, we will work a shell in every alternate ch-3 sp. For the sake of getting it all right and
perfect, please check how you need to work your shells.
How do we
do that?
a)
You must have a shell in the corner
ch-3 sps.
b)
So work
back from the corner ch-3 sp and see where you need to start working your 1st
sc.
c)
We will be
working our shell Stitch in the centre sc of each 3-sc set.
d)
We will
work an sc in every alternate 3-sc set, and once again in the centre sc
of the set.
e)
Our Shell
st is [dc ; (ch 1, dc) ; rep (to) once] all in the same sc.
f)
Our Corner
Shell st is [dc ; (ch 1, dc) ; rep (to) 3 times] all in the same sc.
Following
the above ground rules, let’s work this last border round.
Round
3 : sl-st
into the 1st centre sc of the 1st 3-sc set ; sc in that same
sc ;
(sk next 2
sc, Shell st in the next sc ; sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc) ;
*rep (to)
till the 1st corner 3-sc set ;
sk next 2
sc, Corner Shell st in the next sc* ;
rep *to*
all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Part 4 : Shoulder
& side Straps
Shoulder strap placement
(diagram not to size - representation only)
Side attachment of front & back granny squares
(diagram not to size - representation only)
Strap attachment of front & back granny squares
(diagram not to size - representation only. Colors only to differentiate)
For the
straps I have worked a row of foundation half double crochet for the length I
needed for my straps – two each for the shoulders and two for the sides.
Foundation half double crochet is like the fdc, but instead of working a dc,
you work a hdc chain.
This video shows you how to attach your strap using fsc (Foundation single crochet). and fhdc (foundation half double crochet). So you can use either these stitches, or the fdc for your strap.
If you
find this too confusing, you can
a)
Work a fsc
chain for the length needed ; Turn and then work an sc in each fsc all the way
back to the start. Fasten off and attach
onto the top ; OR
b)
Work a
regular chain length for the length needed ; Turn and work a hdc in each chain
all the way to the start. Fasten off and
attach onto the top.
c)
Attachment
: Check the photo above. Ensure that you
allow your work to hang for a bit before tightly securing the ends – no matter
what yarn you are using. Even cotton
yarn tends to stretch a bit on hanging / wear.
Part 5 : Tassels
Along the
bottom edge, let’s hang some long tassels.
Decide on
the following :
a)
how much
yarn do you have ? (as this will decide
the following answers)
b)
how far
apart you want them ?
c)
how thick
would you like them ? (Remember that when you measure your tassels, you will be
doubling them over, so keep this in mind before you close on this idea)
d)
how long
would you like them ?
How to make a small pattern with your tassels : Here’s a quick tutorial at https://youtu.be/Pt5BMW_OlAg on making a small pattern using your tassels.
Isn't this a great boho / beach top, don’t you agree?
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Cute! What size(s) does this pattern fit?
ReplyDeleteThanks.. This is a 34" (S/M) but it can be adapted for several sizes. Changing hook / yarn size decreases / increases the size of each square
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