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Friday, 13 May 2016

K’S BABY GIRL DRESS


K’S BABY GIRL DRESS

Today I met with some old friends, and not only did we have a super meet (and oh my God, loads of super food), but I was also gifted all of this lovely yarn.. so here’s what I’m making for the (daughter of) person who gifted this to me.
Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

Edited to add : When the pictures above were sent to me, I was also told that the little girl loves it so much, she refused to take it off after the photos were taken.. I am tripping in happiness.. and just had to share that with you too.


Inspired by the photo, here are my pattern notes . 

Just see what a difference adding two colours to this dress made!



Materials used :  Indian Anchor knitting cotton with a 3 mm crochet hook ; 
Optional : Stitch marker

Size made : For a 3 year old : Chest : 24” ; Length 22” and I used 100 gms each of two colours

Difficulty level : Intermediate level

Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to picot : (sc, ch 3, sl-st in same sc) all in the same st or ch-sp. 
Pl view instructions at http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-crochet-a-picot-stitch.html for a refresher of what a 3-ch picot is.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

There is a super pin that I found for sizing of neck / yokes for young kids at https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

Abbreviations used :

fdc : Foundation double crochet                      ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                  sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                            hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                    yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                          ch-sp  Chain space
sc : Single crochet                                                      hdc : Half double crochet
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together



So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, and work down to the armholes.  We will then work our bottom part of the dress off this yoke.

Part I : Yoke - Front




We will work our yoke in two parts. For the front, we will work in one piece, and for the back, we will work in two pieces, with a button placket.
Now if you decide not to add any buttons (for younger children), then you could ensure that the neckline is of the right depth to allow you to slip it over the head without a need for buttons.
I always say that even for little kids, just allow that one button opening right at the top – so you just work the first 3 – 4 rows back and forth from armhole to the centre placket, and then work all the way side to side from armhole to armhole.

I’ve written this pattern down as per the chart.  Now this may not suit you perfectly, as you may be making a dress for a larger child. So here’s what I suggest :
1.       Keep a well fitting dress (or perfect measurements) of the child you’re making this for, handy.
2.     Decide just where you want to start your armhole decreases and the neckline shaping and work the two-line pattern repeat till that point
3.     Use the instructions for the armhole shaping and neckline decrease / shaping as per your well-fitted dress.


Start Row 1 :  with fdc in multiples of 10 + 2 for the half your round chest measure. Turn


In the following row, we’ll do our picot stitches. 
Please check above to see a ‘how-to’. 
We will use a 3-ch picot all through ; which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 1st ch).
For this pattern we will do our picot stitches between 2 dc as follows :
(dc in the dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc)

Row 2 : dc in the 1st 5 fdc ; (dc in the next dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc) ; 
*dc in the next 8 dc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* all the way to the last 5 dc ; dc in the last 5 dc.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st 5 dc ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc and picot , dc in the next 8 dc* ; 
rep *to* all the way to the ; dc till the last dc.  Turn.

From the following row, we will start the decreases for shaping the armhole. 

Row 4 : sl-st in the 1st 4 dc ; hdc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; 
*dc in the next 3 dc ; (dc in the next dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc) ; 
dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep *to* the last ch-2 sp ; 2 dc in that last ch-2 sp ; 
hdc in the next dc , sk the last 4 dc.  Turn.

Row 5 : sl-st in the 1st hdc and dc ; hdc in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc and picot, dc in the next 8 dc * ; 
rep *to* the last picot ; ch 2, sk next 2 dc and picot, dc in the last 3 dc ; 
hdc in the last st.  Turn.

In the following row, we will start and end with a dc 2-tog. 
Yet again, please check under stitches used for a “how to”.

Row 6 : sl-st in the 1st hdc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc ; 
*2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 
(dc in the dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc) ; dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ; 2 dc in that last ch-2 sp ; 
dc in the next dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc, sk last st and Turn.

Row 7 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sts ; dc in the next 5 dc ; 
*ch 2, sk 2 dc and picot, dc in the next 8 dc* ; 
rep *to* till the last picot ; dc in the next 5 dc ; 
dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts.  Turn.

The armhole shaping is now done, and we can continue without any further decrease, in pattern, till we reach the neckline decrease.

Row 8 : dc in the 1st 6 dc ; 
*2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 
(dc in the dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc) ; dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ; 2 dc in that last ch-2 sp ; 
dc in the last 6 dc till end.  Turn.

Row 9 : dc in the 1st 11 dc ; *ch 2, sk 2 dc and picot, dc in the next 8 dc* ; 
rep *to* till the last picot ; dc in the last 11 dc till end.  Turn.

This is the row just before the neckline shaping, so just for that centre section of the neckline, we will not do the usual picot stitch. 
So may I suggest that you decide on the shape of your neckline here though we will only be actually dividing for the neckline in the following row.


So fold your work in half, mark the centre.  
Then decide on the shape of that “U” neckline and place the two side markers on either side of this first centre marker. 
The two side markers should be the same number of dc away from the centre marker for an even shape. 
Remove the centre marker now, and we will use our two side markers for the neckline shaping.
Now there may be differences here depending on where your marker is. 
Remember that all you need to do to is follow the pattern, which you know by heart now.. ensuring you have the picot stitch just where you have to be and the ch-2 sps also evenly spaced.

Row 10 : dc in the 1st 6 dc ; (dc in the dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc) ; 
dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; 
[dc in the next 8 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ; 
rep [to] once ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 
rep (to) once ; dc in each dc till end. Turn.

In the following row we’ll be dividing for our neckline.  
So here’s where we will be using those two side markers, and working from one armhole to the first side marker and back. 
We will work all this way up to the shoulder. We will then go to the second marker and work that side up to the shoulder.

Row 11 : dc in the next 6 dc ; ch 2, sk 2 dc and picot, in each dc till 3 sts before the 1st marker ; hdc on that 3rd last stitch ; sc in the next st and sl-st in the last st. Turn.

We will now work only on this section till the shoulder.
In the following row, we will be working our decorative picot in the same space as we have two rows before, and not in between the 8 dc sets.

Row 12 : sl-st in the 1st 3 sts ; hdc in the next dc ; 
dc in the next 4 dc ; (dc , picot ,dc) in the next ch-2 sp ; 
dc in each dc till end. Turn.

Row 13 : dc in the next 6 dc ; ch 2, sk 2 dc and picot, in each dc till 3 sts before the end ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 sts (i.e over the 3rd last & 2nd last stitches) ; sk the last st. Turn.

We’ve completed our neckline shaping.

Row 15 - 16 : dc in each dc till end.  Turn.

Fasten off and weave in ends.
We’ve completed one side of the yoke till shoulder. 
Repeat all instructions from the centre neckline divide to the shoulder for the other side, ensuring you mirror the instructions.

This completes our Front Yoke.

These are the same instructions for the Back part of the yoke too.
The only difference how deep you want the back of the neck.  If you are going to work it the same depth as the front, then you just follow these front instructions, and all you need to figure is if you’d need a button opening around the back.

If you want the back higher, then you work the pattern through the back too, till you reach the shoulder level.



Yoke finishing :
What I’d suggest now is that we finish our yoke bit. So I’d suggest you go ahead and attach the two shoulders and join the little sides as well.  In case you have kept an opening for the back, may I suggest that you pin the two ends so that they don’t flap when we’re working the skirt portion… or maybe go on ahead and fix in that button right away, so we’re done with this yoke completely.



Skirt Instructions :
For the lower or skirt part of the dress, I am going to work in one continuous round. 
Now our pattern repeat for this skirt portion is 6.


So here’s the tricky part.  The yoke repeat was 10 + 2, and here we have 6.  So first count up what you have for the top yoke bit, and see how much you need to increase to get it into multiples of 6.
I say increase (and not decrease) as we always like to have a frillier skirt portion, right?  So let’s go ahead and work our calculations and get ready for the skirt portion.


Finally a few cheat ideas J .. How do you get a frillier dress if you don’t want to add stitches ? Well, the simplest way would be to reduce the gap between two pattern stitches (the first row of shell stitches we’re creating).  So the ‘gap’ between two stitches is 3, reduce that and you get more frills.
Note though that you would need to calculate the stitch count repeat all around for any cheat or tweak.. but this is just a suggestion.. now go ahead and cheat n tweak
J

Attach your yarn (I’d suggest we attach it at the back centre point). We will now be working on the other side of that first fdc row


Round 1 : dc in the 1st fdc ; 
(ch 1, dc in the next st ; [ch 1, dc in the same st] ; rep [to] once ; ch 1, dc in the next st) ; *sk next 3 sts ; dc in the next st ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

You have finished with the hardest part of the skirt bit. Everything else is easy-peasy.. so lets get going.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; sc in the next ch-1 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around ; and join with a sl-st to  the 1st st.

So let’s just take a quick look and understand what we’re going to do now.
We have 5 dc in that first round (per set) and we have just added three ch-3 sps in each set. So this total little creation looks like one shell, right?
Now each new shell set (which is made up by two rounds of work) will be worked out of the centre ch-3 sp only.  Simple enough, right?

Round 3 : sl-st past the 1st ch-3 sp and into the 2nd ch-3 sp , dc in the same ch-3 sp; (ch 1, dc in the same ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ; 
*sk next two ch-3 sps ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) 4 times* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; sc in the next ch-1 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around ; and join with a sl-st to  the 1st st.


And as you’ve guessed it, we’ve finished one complete pattern repeat.



Rep Rounds 3 and 4 till you have a dress of the length needed (as measured from the shoulders).  Let’s end with a Round 3 and work a round of picots as the last round.

We will work our picot st in each of the ch-1 sps. 


Last Round : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc  + picot in the same 1st ch-1 sp ; 
*(ch 1 , sc + picot in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; sc + picot in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* all around ; and join with a sl-st to  the 1st st.

Great.. we’re almost done. 
Let’s just do one final finishing around the neckline and the armhole, to tidy this all up, shall we?


Armhole and neckline edging :



Work is always neater when finished – so to start this, let’s run a round of sc all around the armholes and neckline edges.  
Our border pattern has a repeat of 6, so work a round of sc all around the edges in multiples of 6.

Start with a round of sc all around the neckline or armhole edges in multiples of 6.

Round 1 : sc in the 1st sc ; sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in the next sc ; 
*sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc ; sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Work this edging around the neckline as well as both armholes.

Now along with this free gifted yarn, I was also gifted some lovely pink beads.. and as I had time, I decided to add some beady bling to it. 


In the yoke, where we have those lovely ch-sps just above the picot, I’ve added my beads.  So I just strung in three beads (mine are pretty small beads and that’s who many fit neatly across without stretching or pulling that ch-sp) and sewed them in individually.  
Yes, a little more work than if we’d worked them in earlier, but at that time,  I forgot about these beads.. and anyway, these beads would probably not thread through my crochet hook.. so hmmm.

All in all, I’m fantastically thrilled with the end result. Hope you have lots of fun creating your little dress too.

Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet another beautiful dress made for your young lady.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ?? J

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