Sweet Nothings Crochet: K’S BABY GIRL DRESS

I love how my cute model is showing off her lovely pink & white crochet lacy dress, don't you? This simple crochet baby dress pattern is made using some of our Indian Anchor knitting cotton with a 3 mm crochet hook. I was also told that the little girl loves it so much, she refused to take it off after the photos were taken.. I am tripping in happiness.. and just had to share that with you too.

Today I met with some old friends, and not only did we have a super meet (and oh my God, loads of super food), but I was also gifted all of this lovely yarn.. so here’s what I’m making for the (daughter of) person who gifted this to me. Thank you for joining me.

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Inspired by the photo, here are my pattern notes .

Just see what a difference adding two colours to this dress made!

Materials used : Indian Anchor knitting cotton with a 3 mm crochet hook ; a little embroidery thread ; embroidery needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; poly-fill stuffing ; stocking net ; beads n more ; satin ribbon

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Oswal 4-ply yarn ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

Optional : Stitch marker

Size made : For a 3 year old : Chest : 24” ; Length 22” and I used 100 gms each of two colours

Difficulty level : Intermediate level

Stitches used : Using U.S terminology

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing here or here

Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing here , here or here

Abbreviations used : Using U.S terminology

ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)

dc : Double crochet hk : Hook

st(s) : Stitch(es) sl-st : slip stitch

sk : Skip sp : space

rep : repeat

fsc : Foundation single crochet

Instructions Using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.

We start with the yoke, and work down to the armholes. We will then work our bottom part of the dress off this yoke.

PART I : YOKE - Front

We will work our yoke in two parts. For the front, we will work in one piece, and for the back, we will work in two pieces, with a button placket.

Now if you decide not to add any buttons (for younger children), then you could ensure that the neckline is of the right depth to allow you to slip it over the head without a need for buttons.

I always say that even for little kids, just allow that one button opening right at the top – so you just work the first 3 – 4 rows back and forth from armhole to the centre placket, and then work all the way side to side from armhole to armhole.

I’ve written this pattern down as per the chart. Now this may not suit you perfectly, as you may be making a dress for a larger child. So here’s what I suggest :

1. Keep a well fitting dress (or perfect measurements) of the child you’re making this for, handy.

2. Decide just where you want to start your armhole decreases and the neckline shaping and work the two-line pattern repeat till that point

3. Use the instructions for the armhole shaping and neckline decrease / shaping as per your well-fitted dress.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start Row 1 : with fdc in multiples of 10 + 2 for the half your round chest measure. Turn

In the following row, we’ll do our picot stitches.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

We will use a 3-ch picot all through ; which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 1^st ch).

For this pattern we will do our picot stitches between 2 dc as follows :

(dc in the dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc)

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st 5 fdc ;

(dc in the next dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc) ;

*dc in the next 8 dc ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* all the way to the last 5 dc ;

dc in the last 5 dc. Turn.

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st5 dc ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 dc and picot , dc in the next 8 dc* ;

rep *to* all the way to the ;

dc till the last dc. Turn.

From the following row, we will start the decreases for shaping the armhole.

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Row 4 : sl-st in the 1^st4 dc ;

hdc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

*dc in the next 3 dc ;

(dc in the next dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc) ;

dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;

rep *to* the last ch-2 sp ;

2 dc in that last ch-2 sp ;

hdc in the next dc , sk the last 4 dc. Turn.

Row 5 : sl-st in the 1^sthdc and dc ;

hdc in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 dc and picot, dc in the next 8 dc * ;

rep *to* the last picot ;

ch 2, sk next 2 dc and picot, dc in the last 3 dc ;

hdc in the last st. Turn.

In the following row, we will start and end with a dc 2-tog.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.

Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo

Row 6 : sl-st in the 1^sthdc ;

dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ;

(dc in the dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc) ;

dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ;

2 dc in that last ch-2 sp ;

dc in the next dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc, sk last st and Turn.

Row 7 : dc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sts ; dc in the next 5 dc ;

*ch 2, sk 2 dc and picot, dc in the next 8 dc* ;

rep *to* till the last picot ;

dc in the next 5 dc ;

dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts. Turn.

The armhole shaping is now done, and we can continue without any further decrease, in pattern, till we reach the neckline decrease.

Row 8 : dc in the 1^st 6 dc ;

*2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 3 dc ;

(dc in the dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc) ;

dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ;

2 dc in that last ch-2 sp ;

dc in the last 6 dc till end. Turn.

Row 9 : dc in the 1^st 11 dc ;

*ch 2, sk 2 dc and picot, dc in the next 8 dc* ;

rep *to* till the last picot ;

dc in the last 11 dc till end. Turn.

This is the row just before the neckline shaping, so just for that centre section of the neckline, we will not do the usual picot stitch.

So may I suggest that you decide on the shape of your neckline here though we will only be actually dividing for the neckline in the following row.

So fold your work in half, mark the centre.

Then decide on the shape of that “U” neckline and place the two side markers on either side of this first centre marker.

The two side markers should be the same number of dc away from the centre marker for an even shape.

Remove the centre marker now, and we will use our two side markers for the neckline shaping.

Now there may be differences here depending on where your marker is.

Remember that all you need to do to is follow the pattern, which you know by heart now.. ensuring you have the picot stitch just where you have to be and the ch-2 sps also evenly spaced.

Row 10 : dc in the 1^st 6 dc ;

(dc in the dc ; picot ; dc in the next dc) ;

dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;

[dc in the next 8 dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp] ;

rep [to] once ; dc in the next 3 dc ;

rep (to) once ;

dc in each dc till end. Turn.

In the following row we’ll be dividing for our neckline.

So here’s where we will be using those two side markers, and working from one armhole to the first side marker and back.

We will work all this way up to the shoulder. We will then go to the second marker and work that side up to the shoulder.

Row 11 : dc in the next 6 dc ;

ch 2, sk 2 dc and picot, in each dc till 3 sts before the 1^st marker ;

hdc on that 3^rd last stitch ;

sc in the next st and sl-st in the last st. Turn.

We will now work only on this section till the shoulder.

In the following row, we will be working our decorative picot in the same space as we have two rows before, and not in between the 8 dc sets.

Row 12 : sl-st in the 1^st 3 sts ;

hdc in the next dc ;

dc in the next 4 dc ;

(dc , picot ,dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;

dc in each dc till end. Turn.

Row 13 : dc in the next 6 dc ;

ch 2, sk 2 dc and picot, in each dc till 3 sts before the end ;

dc 2-tog over the next 2 sts (i.e over the 3^rd last & 2^nd last stitches) ;

sk the last st. Turn.

We’ve completed our neckline shaping.

Row 15 - 16 : dc in each dc till end. Turn.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

We’ve completed one side of the yoke till shoulder.

Repeat all instructions from the centre neckline divide to the shoulder for the other side, ensuring you mirror the instructions.

This completes our Front Yoke.

These are the same instructions for the Back part of the yoke too.
The only difference how deep you want the back of the neck. If you are going to work it the same depth as the front, then you just follow these front instructions, and all you need to figure is if you’d need a button opening around the back.

If you want the back higher, then you work the pattern through the back too, till you reach the shoulder level.

YOKE FINISHING :

What I’d suggest now is that we finish our yoke bit. So I’d suggest you go ahead and attach the two shoulders and join the little sides as well. In case you have kept an opening for the back, may I suggest that you pin the two ends so that they don’t flap when we’re working the skirt portion… or maybe go on ahead and fix in that button right away, so we’re done with this yoke completely.

Check the top of this blog for joining ideas.

SKIRT INSTRUCTIONS :

For the lower or skirt part of the dress, I am going to work in one continuous round.

Now our pattern repeat for this skirt portion is 6.

So here’s the tricky part. The yoke repeat was 10 + 2, and here we have 6. So first count up what you have for the top yoke bit, and see how much you need to increase to get it into multiples of 6.

I say increase (and not decrease) as we always like to have a frillier skirt portion, right? So let’s go ahead and work our calculations and get ready for the skirt portion.

Finally a few cheat ideas .. How do you get a frillier dress if you don’t want to add stitches ? Well, the simplest way would be to reduce the gap between two pattern stitches (the first row of shell stitches we’re creating). So the ‘gap’ between two stitches is 3, reduce that and you get more frills.
Note though that you would need to calculate the stitch count repeat all around for any cheat or tweak.. but this is just a suggestion.. now go ahead and cheat n tweak

Attach your yarn (I’d suggest we attach it at the back centre point). We will now be working on the other side of that first fdc row

Round 1 : dc in the 1^st fdc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next st ; [ch 1, dc in the same st] ; rep [to] once ; ch 1, dc in the next st) ; *sk next 3 sts ; dc in the next st ; rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

You have finished with the hardest part of the skirt bit. Everything else is easy-peasy.. so lets get going.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ; and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

So let’s just take a quick look and understand what we’re going to do now.
We have 5 dc in that first round (per set) and we have just added three ch-3 sps in each set. So this total little creation looks like one shell, right?

Now each new shell set (which is made up by two rounds of work) will be worked out of the centre ch-3 sp only. Simple enough, right?

Round 3 : sl-st past the 1^st ch-3 sp and into the 2^nd ch-3 sp , dc in the same ch-3 sp; (ch 1, dc in the same ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) 3 times ;

*sk next two ch-3 sps ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) 4 times* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ; and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

I've added two colors for the body and border

And as you’ve guessed it, we’ve finished one complete pattern repeat.

Rep Rounds 3 and 4 till you have a dress of the length needed (as measured from the shoulders). Let’s end with a Round 3 and work a round of picots as the last round.

We will work our picot st in each of the ch-1 sps.

Last Round : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ; sc + picot in the same 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 1 , sc + picot in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; sc + picot in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around ; and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Great.. we’re almost done.

Let’s just do one final finishing around the neckline and the armhole, to tidy this all up, shall we?

Armhole and neckline edging :

Work is always neater when finished – so to start this, let’s run a round of sc all around the armholes and neckline edges.

Our border pattern has a repeat of 6, so work a round of sc all around the edges in multiples of 6.

Start with a round of sc all around the neckline or armhole edges in multiples of 6.

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st sc ; sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in the next sc ;

*sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc ;

sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.
Work this edging around the neckline as well as both armholes.

Now along with this free gifted yarn, I was also gifted some lovely pink beads.. and as I had time, I decided to add some beady bling to it.

In the yoke, where we have those lovely ch-sps just above the picot, I’ve added my beads. So I just strung in three beads (mine are pretty small beads and that’s who many fit neatly across without stretching or pulling that ch-sp) and sewed them in individually.

Yes, a little more work than if we’d worked them in earlier, but at that time, I forgot about these beads.. and anyway, these beads would probably not thread through my crochet hook.. so hmmm.

All in all, I’m fantastically thrilled with the end result. Hope you have lots of fun creating your little dress too.

Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet another beautiful dress made for your young lady.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ??

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I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/10/enchanting-dress.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/09/rose-dress.html