EASY TOP with removable poncho-like collar
I saw this project shared on Facebook recently
and was immediately drawn to the ingenuity of the idea. A top with a removable poncho-like collar? How cool is that, right?
I showed this pattern to my friends Rajeshwari and Clara, who are my first “go-to” people when I have crochet ideas anyway,
and they gave me these free charts to work this pattern with. Thank you girls.. for being there for me
always!
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And inspired by
this photo, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project. You can make this pattern to any size using any yarn. Please look through the list of yarns given below to see which yarn is available in your part of the world. The list is only so that you can get an idea of yarn thickness, and then figure out an approximate requirement.
Materials used : Today I’ve
used ~ 150 gms of some the stunningly lovely Milford Soft knitting cotton 4-ply
equivalent yarn (called Soft Ombre Pastel) with a 3.0 mm crochet hook
Do note that technically this yarn would use a 2 - 2.5 mm crochet hook. I like the extra 'stretch' provided by using a slightly larger hook size.
Do note that technically this yarn would use a 2 - 2.5 mm crochet hook. I like the extra 'stretch' provided by using a slightly larger hook size.
For Indians : You could use Anchor or Red rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn
For Non-Indians : The other international yarns I've used in this (lace) weight category are Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10, Sullivans Knitting cotton, DMC Petra and Hilaza Rustica Eclat knitting cotton.
The prescribed / suggested hook for Milford Soft knitting cotton is 2 - 2.5 mm.
I prefer a slightly larger hook as I love the extra stretch it affords a yarn, when making tops.
Difficulty level
: Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.
For the poncho like collar/neckline, I think one needs Advanced skill
crochet level 😐
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3kFirst stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
I started
this pattern off with the base of the top – so first you need to decide how
long you want the top, and check out the measurements for that part of the body
– so if you are taking this top all the way down to the waist, you will need to
work half the round waist measure for your starting line – and if you are
working it only till the mid-riff.. yup, you got it.. it’s the half mid-riff
measure you will start with.
Also note
that in patterns like this, you will need to take the largest body measure
for your start count. This means that if
your chest measure is slightly more than the waist measure, that’s the measure
(chest) you will use.
This is
not my pattern – I found this chart and inspiration photograph – and these are
my notes as I work on my pattern.
For this
pattern, I’ve been inspired by two different patterns. I am using one pattern for the base of the
sleeveless top and the next pattern will be for the yoke/poncho/neck + sleeves…
I am not sure what to term this second part, so the several terms for you to
choose from 😀
Part 1 : Front
and Back
We will
work two identical halves for this pattern – so one each for front and
back.
The stitch count is in multiples of 7 + 5
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Start : with fdc in multiples of 7 +
5 for half the round chest / bust / waist measure. Turn.
From the
very first row, let’s start with our “V”-st, which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in
the
same st or
ch-sp
Row
1 :
dc in the
1st fdc ;
*”V”-st in the next fdc ; sk next fdc, “V”-st in the next
fdc ;
dc in the next fdc ; ch 1, sk next 2 fdc, dc in the next fdc* ;
rep *to*
till the end. Turn.
From this
row on, we will work the “V”-st in the ch-1 sp of the earlier “V”-st unless
otherwise indicated.
Row
2 :
dc in the
1st dc ;
*“V”-st in the next 2 “V”-sts ; “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp*
;
rep *to* till the last dc ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row
3 :
dc in the
1st dc ;
“V”-st in the next “V”-st ; and in each “V”-st till the end
;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Rep Row 3
till you reach the armhole or neckline level, whichever comes first.
Read
instructions for decrease below before you go off to work on the top pattern
repeat
Part 2 : Armhole
shaping
For the
shaping of the armhole, you will first need to decide how deep you want this
opening.
Decrease
Row :
sl-st past
the 1st 3 “V”-sts ; dc in the next dc (of the 4th “V”-st
from end) ;
“V”-st in
the next “V”-st ; and in each “V”-st till the last 3 “V”-sts ;
dc in the last dc (which is again the 4th
“V”-st from end). Turn.
Once
again, go back to rep of Row 3 till you reach the neckline level.
Part 3 : Neckline shaping
At this
point you will need to decide how deep you want your neckline. Once you’ve got that figured, here’s what you
need to do.
Count off
to the centre “V”-st and place a marker there.
Then decide how wide you want your neckline
1.
Once you
have both the depth and width figured, count off an even number of “V”-sts from
the centre stitch (where you’ve just placed a marker) and place two markers to
mark the two sides of your neckline
2.
You will
now work from one side of your armhole to this side marker and then back
to the armhole.
3.
You will
work all the way from armhole to neckline till you reach the shoulder
4.
Once you
reach the shoulder, fasten off
5.
Re-attach
your yarn at the 2nd marker for the other side of the neckline to
shoulder portion and work all the way from neckline to armhole till you reach
the second shoulder. Fasten off.
You have
successfully completed the front or one side of your top.
Work all
these instructions for the back or other side of your top.
Remember that you may not want the
same depth for the back of your neckline, so you will need to re-work the depth
and width of your back neckline.
IF you
decide to have a completely high neckline, then you will work from armhole to
armhole, side to side all the way to the shoulder.
Part 4 : Finishing
Once you
have completed both the front and the back pieces, you will join your two
shoulder bits and then the sides to finish off the top. I suggest that you run a round or two of sc
all around the neckline as well as the armhole for a neat finish.
Part 5 : Lacy
collar / poncho-like neck
For the
last and final beautiful lacy collar bit, we will work it separately and then
either join it at the shoulders OR keep it separate so that it can be worn with
this top as well as other matching outfits.
This collar bit is worked in a round.
I will as
usual give a general idea on how to work on this. The main thing that you need to keep in mind
is that you get the stitch count for the pattern, and then you need to decide
what kind of a neckline / collar you’d like.
So what do I mean by this? Well,
we start off with a large round that will be the first line of our
pattern. So once you work this round,
put it around your neck and see how “high” you’d like this.. High means that it
will be closer to the neck and low would mean that it would be more like a
boat-neck and will flop over the shoulders quicker (i.e like the designer has
done here).
Once
again, using these ideas, one can make this for any size. Please also go
through all these detailed instructions before you start
Our stitch
count is in multiples of 9 + 1.
Start
Round 1 :
with fsc
in multiples of 9 + 1.
Keeping
the chain flat, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Check out
this video on how to keep your chain flat without twisting when working with a
longer chain length
Round
2 :
sc in the
1st fsc ; *ch 8, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ; rep *to* all
around till the end and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Note : If you find that this first
round is too loose (as I did), then please opt for a shorter ch-sp. I worked a
ch-6 instead of ch 8.
I am, however,
writing this as charted – as this may work for some. Remember this when you go
through the next set of instructions.
Now after
I completed my collar, I thought it was a bit too loose, though I did want
it to flop over the shoulders and had made that first round that way – when I
saw whom it was intended for, I had a change of mind.. Now rather than rip out
the whole hard work, I just decided to tighten up the neckline around
the first fsc round. So I just worked a
few sc 2-tog every few stitches evenly all around till I had the shape I
wanted. I just thought I’d throw this
out there. So go ahead and start on this
beauty.. and it’ll all work out, you’ll see.
Oh, just
for kicks I ran a round of picot around the neckline too, as you can see. ;)
In our
following row, we will work a dc 3-tog as our pattern stitch. Please go to the top of this blog for a “how
to” on this stitch.
Round
3 :
sl-st into
the 1st ch-8 sp , sc in the same ch-8 sp ,
*[ch 8, sc
in the next ch-8 sp] ;
{rep [to] once ; (ch 3, dc 3-tog, ch 3, sc) all in the same
ch-8 sp}* ;
rep *to*
all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Now there
are two ways to proceed here on, and I will give you both options.
Please note that you will need to use only
one – so as usual, choices and decisions.
Remember
however that if
you work 4A, you will be increasing your circumference every round. This means that the space between the dc
3-tog sets will increase… but it will also allow you to grow the width a little
more.. and give it a lovely fuller flare.
So here’s
what I suggest – you could work a few rounds of 4A and then opt to work Round
4, which will give you the best of all worlds.
That said, this does require advanced crochet skills. :-/
Oh, and if
you work the alternate Round 4A, the border round will not work in the way it
is written. It will need to be
calculated by you. So yet again,
only for the advanced crocheter.
Round
4 :
sl-st into
the 1st ch-8 sp , sc in the same ch-8 sp ;
*ch 8, sc
in the next ch-8 sp ;
ch 8, sk the next dc-3 tog set , sc in the next ch-8 sp*;
rep *to*
all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
4 A :
sl-st into
the 1st ch-8 sp , sc in the same ch-8 sp ;
*ch 8, sc
in the next ch-8 sp ;
ch 8, sc on top of the next dc-3 tog set ;
ch 8, sc
in the next ch-8 sp*;
rep *to*
all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Now
depending on which pattern you chose above (i.e Round 4 or 4A, the difference
will be in the rep [to]. If you chose 4,
then you will rep [to] once, and if you chose 4A, rep [to] 2 times.
Round
5 :
sl-st into
the 1st ch-8 sp , sc in the same ch-8 sp ,
*(ch 3, dc
3-tog, ch 3, sc) all in the same ch-8 sp ;
[ch 8, sc in the next ch-8
sp] ;
rep [to] 1
or 2 times dep* ;
rep *to*
all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Please
note that the
dc 3-tog sets may be in a different space after Round 5, but you know that
basically we’re just working a round of ch-8 sps, so just go ahead and skip all
the dc 3-tog sets, no matter where they fall.
and would
you believe that we have completed a pattern repeat ? This is it ..
Rep Rounds
4 and 5 to increase the width of your collar / wrap / poncho ; ending
with Round 5.
So you see
what we’ve done.. we’ve made a round of ch-sps and in every alternate round we
have this cute dc 3-tog set that makes the pattern. In every alternate round of dc 3-tog sets, we
are “moving” our set one ch-sp such that they are in the middle of the earlier
set. Take a look and you’ll see what I
mean.
So you really do not need the pattern anymore.. you can beautifully wing it right in front of the T.V.
So you really do not need the pattern anymore.. you can beautifully wing it right in front of the T.V.
Remember that you must try your
project on to see that the round neck works for you – else it is going to be a
lot of rip rip ripping n frogging back – and no one likes that.. so check now
that you like how it fits around the neck!
On the
very last round, we’ll do a really tiny border, so once you’re done increasing
the width, come back for this last round.
For our
last border round, we’ll work a ch – 3 picot stitch, which is (ch 3, sl-st into
the 3rd ch from hk). For a
quick “how to” on the picot stitch, check the top of this blog.
For this
final row , you can use either a dc or a trc (treble / triple crochet)
stitch. I a going to write this as
charted with a trc.
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
Last
Border Round :
ch 1, (trc
+ picot 5 times) all the 1st sc ;
*ch 1, sc
in the next ch-8 sp ;
ch 8, sk next dc-3 tog set, sc in the next ch-8 sp ;
ch 1, (trc
+ picot 5 times) all in the next sc* ;
rep *to*
all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Thank you. Have been looking for top patterns all summer and had not seen yours. It is beautiful and will try it when I get the cotton. Thank Tyson much.
ReplyDeleteThank you Audrey, for your interest and appreciation in my blog and patterns. I wait (impatiently) for your creation. Do remember to share your photos with me - and I'd love to feature them on my Facebook page.
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