Wednesday, 19 July 2017

A CUTE LITTLE CANDY DOLL

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A CUTE LITTLE CANDY DOLL


I started making a few teddy bears for a charity drive and that has started me on my toys / amigurumis and more fun.  I am not going to think about where these little dolls are head – but they are sure going to make one little kid happy and spread a few smiles.

I found a free pattern for this cute little doll right here at https://amigurumibb.com/2013/11/22/bb-candy-dolls/
These are my notes for the crafters (mainly us Indians) who are using a similar yarn, as well as for the little changes I’d made.  These are the cute inspirational photographs (designers) that got me started on this journey.




Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn & Anchor knitting cotton yarn ; with 2.5 mm & 1.75 mm crochet hooks respectively ; embroidery needle ; poly fill non-allergic stuffing

Size : She stands at 10.5” tall

Skill level :  Intermediate.  

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

How to single crochet join :  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmYEsHlgQ30


  
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                 sc : Single crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                               st(s) : Stitch(es)     
sp : Space                                                         sl-st : Slip stitch
hk : Hook                                                                      yo : Yarn Over 
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet                                        

This pattern is written using U.S terminology.  This pattern is cute and well written.  Here are my notes for the mild confusion that I’d had in the pattern, and what I’ve done.

So there are small bits and pieces here and there, and then the shoes that I’ve made a little differently – all in my notes here.  Enjoy.

Head & Body : Clarification


 Head sideways view

Head front view

I’m not sure if you would have *worried* (even if for just a second till you scroll down the designer’s notes J ), but when I completed the instructions, I only had a head.. and wondered if I’d gone wrong somewhere.  The body instructions follow after the legs. 
The head has a cute little chin that sticks out forward (thanks to the increases in Round 14) and that looks a little odd (well, to me) but it works out superbly eventually.  Kudos to the designer in this thought process & head / face design !

Legs : Clarification
Round 9 : The designer has said work 4 sc, fold and then work 4 sc. 
So the *fold* here then becomes the heel & back of foot and you will then work the 4 sc on top, and then pick up the remaining 8 sc along the sides and bottom to complete the round.  Once you have your 12 sc all around, you will work upwards to form the leg.

Joining 4 sc


Body : Clarification
Round 2 : The designer has said “sc1, Inc2 over 2chain stitches previous round”. 
So what I’ve done is work 2 sc in the 2 sc from one end between legs, go around the 1st leg and then work 2 more sc in that same ‘ch’ from the other end. 
I am not sure if this is what the designer meant in the first place, but I got the total of 30 sts as required – so I guess that’s what’s most important

Legs joining

Hair weaving ideas
The designer has given a link for hair weaving. In my amigurumi and toy making before, I  have tried (successfully) two types of weaving – one is making a little cap that you weave into and then attach that cap onto the head, and the second is weaving directly onto the head we’ve made.  I’ve used this second way of weaving for this project here.

So for this, start with the first round of 5 sc, and weave in a folded yarn in each of these sts. Hold a length of yarn from the top of the head to the point you want it along the back of the body, and then double that.  This is the yarn you will use for this section of the head.
If you want all the hair one length, the you will need to measure the yarn every few rows as the length will decrease as you start weaving lower and lower on the head (obviously).  If you keep one yarn length, then you will get a nice layered look for the hair – so use these ideas to get different hair styles.

For the actual weaving : Put your hook into 1 st and bring it out of the hole right next to it ; loop the folded yarn onto the hk and pull through ; Pass one half of the folded yarn through this lp and pull tight.  You have woven your first bit of hair in.  I have tied a knot at the scalp just to ensure that if your little kid decides to comb the hair, it does not come off onto her comb ;)
Weave hair all around working one hair into each st for the 1st few rounds.

After working the crown of the head, run a marker around the sides and bottom of the head so you get a hair line marked. 

 Mark hair line with embroidery needle
 Place hook in
 Yarn over
 Pull yarn through
 Yarn over (loop up)
 Yarn pulled through
Knot up.  One  hair strand woven in

Every few rounds, please flip the hair back and check how thick it is and how it is falling.  After the first few rounds, you could opt to work a weave every alternate stitch and every alternate row, depending on 
(a) how thick you want your doll’s hair ; 
and (b) how thick your yarn is.

Right then, let’s get our hair on .. literally :)

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Dress Yoke : I used knitting cotton for the dress.  I started with fsc (as usual), so started with 25 fsc as against 27 ch.
We start the dress / shirt from the neck down, and are working in rows from the back, around the front and to the back again. So the opening will be along the back. 

There is a small typo after R 5.  The designer says Repeat R 5 till the length needed.  What is meant is not the skip any stitches but to work in the stitches that remain.  When we skipped the sts in R 5, we have made the sleeves / armhole openings, so what we continue now to work on is the across front and across back of our little shirt / top of dress till we decide how long we want this.  I am sure you get what I mean :)

Dress Skirt : Here’s what I’ve done
I worked a multiple of 3 + 2 in the last row before I finished off with the yoke of my dress.  The designer has suggested that you work in rows for a bit and then start working in rounds.  So before you join your ends, ensure that the opening is wide enough for her head and hair to go through easily enough for a child to work it.

I’ve started numbering from R 1 (which could be Row or Round)

R 1 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the next dc ;
*dc in the next 2 dc , rep (to) in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn (or join with a sl-st if working in round)

R 2 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; sk next dc, (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the next ch-1 sp ;
*sk next dc, dc in the next 2 dc ; sk next dc, , rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn (or join with a sl-st if working in round)

In our following row / round, we’ll use a “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same ch-1 sp.

R 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; sk next dc, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ;
*sk next dc, dc in the next 2 dc ; sk next dc, , “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn (or join with a sl-st if working in round)

Rep R 3 till your dress is of the length needed.
Note : Our pattern is a rep of 2 dc followed by a “V”-st.  So for all following rows, you will be actually sk the next 2 dc (of the “V”-st) and only working your “V”-sts in the ch-1 sp of the earlier “V”-st.. but you did get that, didn’t you :)

For finishing – follow what the lovely designer has suggested and run a round of sc all around the neckline, back placket and armholes.  For fun, run this round in the contrast thread that you’ve used for the skirt.


Slip-On Shoes :
The designer has made a cute lil elf shoe. Here’s what I’ve done though.
Start : with a magic circle and 5 sc in the circle.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 1 : 2 sc in the 1st sc and in each sc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. (10 sc)

Round 2 : 2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next sc ;
*2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (15 sc)

Round 3 : 2 sc in the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next sc ;
*2 sc in the next 2 sc ; sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* once ; sc in all the sc till end, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (18 sc)

Round 4 : sc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. (18 sc)

Rounds 5 - 8 : Rep Round 4.

We will now work in rows for the next few rows, working on the sides and back of our shoe.

Row 9 : sc in the 1st sc and in the next 13 sc.  Turn.   (14 sc)

Rows 10 - 15 : Rep Row 9.

In the last row of the shoe, we’re going to fold our row in half and attach the 9 sc down the back to make the back of the shoe.
To attach the shoe, we will be working in both the folded halves.
Use one of the several ideas given above (top of blog) for joining.

Row 16 : Fold the shoe in half, and work 9 sc through both halves of the shoe. Fasten off and weave in ends.
One shoe complete.  Repeat instructions for the second shoe as well.

Tweak : Using the contrast colour of the dress, run a round of sc or sl-st all around the top of the shoe.

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I have a few toys / amigurumi already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go