Sweet Nothings Crochet: CHRISTMAS ANGEL

CHRISTMAS ANGEL - 3

( #Blogaday 22/365 )

Welcome back to my third blog on the beautiful Christmas Angel. When I posted my 2nd angel, a little after Christmas, and apologized for my having posted it after the Festival, I was reminded that we could all do with an angel in our lives "all the time". YUP, we sure can. So here's another beautiful creation that you can adorn your house with, just like that :)

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Inspired by this photo with its attached graph / chart , here are my pattern notes.

Materials used : Today I have used ~ about a little bit of our lovely Indian Red rose metallic cotton yarn with a 1.3 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends and Mod Podge for stiffening & protecting your project.

This yarn is not specific for this project.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; or unbranded knitting cotton as well

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size made : Length : ~ 5.5" ; Width ~ 4.5"

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Abbreviations used :

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

fsc : Foundation single crochet

dc : Double crochet

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Instructions using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

For this third beautiful little angel, I’m going with a single colour and am using my gold metallic cotton yarn all through.

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 16 dc in that circle.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Pull lightly to close.

Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

In the following round, we’ll create the halo around the angel’s head using CC.

We will work a ch-3 picot for our halo, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3^rd ch from hk)

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Round 3 : sl-st in the 1^st sc ;

(hdc + picot + hdc all in the next dc) ;

[hdc in the next 5 dc] ;

rep (to) once ;

rep [to] once ;

rep (to) once ;

sl-st in the next 7 dc.

You are now at the ‘chin’ of the angel.

We will now work side to side on the body of the little angel. Just for convenience, let’s start renumbering our rows.

So you are now at the chin, and you will start working on the next st

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Row 1 : sc in the next sc ;

ch 5, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc ;

sl-st in the next 2 sts. Turn.

With the first few rows, we need to attach the top part of the wings to the head, so we will be working a few sl-sts with each growing row.

Row 2 : ch 1, sk 2 sl-st, dc in the ch-5 sp ;

(ch 2, dc in the same ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) 11 times ;

ch 1, sk next 2 sc, sl-st in the next 2 sc of the head row. Turn.

Row 3 : ch 1, sk 2 sl-st, sc in the next dc (of head row)

dc in the 1^stdc ;

(2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till end ;

ch 1, sk next 2 dc, sl-st in the next 2 sc of the head row. Turn.

Row 4 : ch 1, sk 2 sl-st, sc in the next dc (of head row)

dc in the 1^stdc ;

(ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till end ;

ch 1, sk next 2 dc, sl-st in the next 2 dc of the head row. Turn. (18 ch-2 sps)

We have now attached the wings to the head, so from the following row, we will only work on the wings.

Row 5 : 2 dc in the 1^stdc ;

(ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Row 6 : dc in the 1^st2 dc;

(ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

From the following row, we will work on the 1^st wing – so we will work on the 1^st 6 ch-2 sps and then turn. Once we complete the 1^st wing, we will work on the 2^nd one and finally on the skirt portion of our little angel’s dress.

Rows 7 - 8 : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

(ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) 5 times.

Turn. (6 ch-sps)

Rows 9 - 10 : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

(ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) 5 times.

Turn. (6 ch-sps)

In our last row, we’ll work a decorative 3-ch picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3^rd ch from hook)

Wing row finishing : sc + picot in the 1^stdc ;

sc in the next dc ;

(2 sc + picot + 2 sc all in the next ch-4 sp ;

sc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

ending with a sc + picot in the last dc. Turn.

Fasten off, weave and glue in ends.

We’ve completed one wing.

Re-attach your yarn at the opposite end for the 2^nd wing and repeat Rows 7 – 11.

Fasten off, weave and glue in ends.

We’ve completed both wings.

We will now work on the centre skirt portion.

Re-attach your yarn at the dc on one end of the centre portion, and we will work on these 4 ch-sps for the centre.

Re-attach you yarn at the corner dc for the skirt, and rep Rows 7 – 8 for the centre skirt portion. We will continue now just on this centre portion.

To avoid confusion for row numbering, (in Row numbers 9 & 10) I’m adding “C” to indicate that this is for the centre portion only.

Row 9C : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

(ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times.

Turn. (4 ch-sps)

In the following row, we’re going to work a dc 2-tog.

Now usually we work the dc 2-tog over 2 sts, but here, we’re going to work it over 2 ch-sps, skipping the stitch in the middle.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.

Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

Row 10C : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

(ch 2, sk sc, dc 2-tog over the next 2 ch-2 sps ;

ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times. Turn.

Row 11 : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

(ch 2, sk dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog over the next 2 ch-2 sps ;

ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times. Turn.

Row 12 : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

(ch 3, sk dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog over the next 2 ch-2 sps ;

ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times. Turn.

Row 13 : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

(ch 4, sk dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog over the next 2 ch-3 sps ;

ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times. Turn.

Row 14 : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

(ch 4, sk dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog over the next 2 ch-4 sps ;

ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times. Turn.

Row 14 : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

(ch 4, [dc ; ch 3, dc] on top of the dc 2-tog ;

ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times. Turn.

Row 15 : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

(ch 4, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times. Turn.

Row 16 : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

(ch 3, [2 dc each in the next 3 dc ;

3 dc in the next dc ; 2 dc each in the next 2 dc] ;

ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times. Turn.

Row 17 : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

*ch 2, dc in the next dc ;

[ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] once ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

rep [to] 2 times ;

ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* 3 times. Turn.

Row 18 : dc in the 1^st2 dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc ;

[ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] 4 times ;

ch 1, dc in the next dc ;

ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times. Turn.

Row 19 : dc in the 1^stdc ;

ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;

[ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc] ;

rep [to] 4 times ;

*(ch 3, sk next 4 dc, 2 dc in the next dc ;

rep [to] 4 times* ;

rep *to* 2 times ;

ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.

In our final round, we’ll work a picot edging.

Let’s once again use our ch-3 picot as before.

Row 20 : sc + picot in the 1^stdc ;

3 sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*(sc + picot in the next dc ;

sc in the next dc ; sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

[sc + picot in the next dc ;

sc in the next dc ; 3 sc in the next ch-3 sp]* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ending with a sc + picot in the last dc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing :

I would suggest that you block your angel, especially if you’ve used a cotton yarn. First lightly iron it (using a light muslin cloth as a cover between the iron and your work – i.e do not iron directly on the work). This stretches and flattens down your work.

Use a white glue (Mod Podge or Indian Fevicol) as a stiffener. I use 1 part glue to 2 parts water and make a light paste, and then I lightly apply this over the back of my work using a paint brush. Allow to flat dry before gifting or using it as your decoration.

Have a fun creative time.

Do remember that this is the first blog of many for living room doll furniture, so if you’ve liked this experience, add your email id to the blog or follow me so you can get all the other bits of furniture too.

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I have a few other miscellaneous crochet stuff I’ve already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go