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Sunday, 22 January 2017
CHRISTMAS ANGEL - 3
CHRISTMAS ANGEL - 3
( #Blogaday 22/365 )
Welcome back to my third blog on the beautiful
Christmas Angel. When I posted my 2nd angel, a little after Christmas, and apologized for my having posted it after the Festival, I was reminded that we could all do with an angel in our lives "all the time". YUP, we sure can. So here's another beautiful creation that you can adorn your house with, just like that :)
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Inspired by this photo with its attached graph / chart , here are
my pattern notes.
Materials used : Today I have
used ~ about a little bit of our lovely Indian Red rose metallic cotton yarn
with a 1.3 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends and Mod Podge for stiffening & protecting your project.
This yarn is not specific for this project.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
For this third beautiful little angel, I’m going
with a single colour and am using my gold metallic cotton yarn all through.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
With the first few rows, we need to attach the
top part of the wings to the head, so we will be working a few sl-sts with each
growing row.
Row 2 : ch 1, sk 2
sl-st, dc in the ch-5 sp ;
(ch 2, dc in the same ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) 11 times ;
ch 1, sk next 2 sc, sl-st in the next 2 sc of
the head row. Turn.
Row 3 : ch 1, sk 2
sl-st, sc in the next dc (of head row)
dc in the 1st dc ;
(2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till end ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, sl-st in the next 2 sc of
the head row. Turn.
Row 4 : ch 1, sk 2
sl-st, sc in the next dc (of head row)
dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till end ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, sl-st in the next 2 dc of
the head row. Turn. (18 ch-2 sps)
We have now attached the wings to the head, so
from the following row, we will only work on the wings.
Row 5 : 2 dc in the
1st dc ;
(ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till end. Turn.
Row 6 : dc in the 1st
2 dc;
(ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) till end. Turn.
From the following row, we will work on the 1st
wing – so we will work on the 1st 6 ch-2 sps and then turn.
Once we complete the 1st wing, we will work on the 2nd
one and finally on the skirt portion of our little angel’s dress.
Rows 7 - 8 :
dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) 5 times.
Turn. (6 ch-sps)
Rows 9 - 10 :
dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) 5 times.
Turn.
(6 ch-sps)
In our last row, we’ll work a decorative 3-ch
picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hook)
Wing row finishing :
sc + picot in the 1st dc ;
sc
in the next dc ;
(2 sc + picot + 2 sc all in the next ch-4 sp ;
sc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ending with a sc + picot in
the last dc. Turn.
Fasten off, weave and glue in ends.
We’ve completed one wing.
Re-attach your yarn at the opposite end for the 2nd wing and repeat Rows
7 – 11.
Fasten off, weave and glue in ends.
We’ve completed both wings.
We will now work on the centre skirt
portion.
Re-attach your yarn at the dc
on one end of the centre portion, and we will work on these 4 ch-sps for the
centre.
Re-attach you yarn at the corner dc for the
skirt, and rep Rows 7 – 8 for the centre skirt portion. We will continue now just on this centre
portion.
To avoid confusion for row numbering, (in Row numbers 9 & 10) I’m adding “C” to
indicate that this is for the centre portion only.
Row 9C : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, dc in the
next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times.
Turn.
(4 ch-sps)
In the following row, we’re going to work a dc
2-tog.
Now usually we work the dc 2-tog
over 2 sts, but here, we’re going to work it over 2 ch-sps, skipping the stitch
in the middle.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
(ch 2, sk dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog over the next 2
ch-2 sps ;
ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times. Turn.
Row 12 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 3, sk dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog over the next 2
ch-2 sps ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times. Turn.
Row 13 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 4, sk dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog over the next 2
ch-3 sps ;
ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times. Turn.
Row 14 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 4, sk dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog over the next 2
ch-4 sps ;
ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times. Turn.
Row 14 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 4, [dc ; ch 3, dc] on top of the dc 2-tog ;
ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times. Turn.
Row 15 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 4, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 4, dc in
the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times. Turn.
Row 16 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 3, [2 dc each in the next 3 dc ;
3 dc in the
next dc ; 2 dc each in the next 2 dc] ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times. Turn.
Row 17 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 2, dc in the next dc ;
[ch 1, sk next dc, dc
in the next dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times
;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* 3 times. Turn.
Row 18 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc ;
[ch 1, 2 dc in the
next dc] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next 2
dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times. Turn.
Row 19 : dc in the 1st
dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;
[ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
*(ch 3, sk next 4 dc, 2 dc in the next dc ;
rep
[to] 4 times* ;
rep *to* 2 times ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the
last dc. Turn.
In our final round, we’ll work a picot
edging.
Let’s once again use our ch-3
picot as before.
Row 20 : sc + picot
in the 1st dc ;
3 sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*(sc + picot in the next dc ;
sc in the next dc
; sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
[sc + picot in the next dc ;
sc in the next dc ;
3 sc in the next ch-3 sp]* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ending with a sc + picot in
the last dc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing :
I would suggest that you block your angel,
especially if you’ve used a cotton yarn.
First lightly iron it (using a light muslin cloth as a cover between the
iron and your work – i.e do not iron directly on the work). This stretches and flattens down your work.
Use a white glue (Mod Podge or Indian Fevicol)
as a stiffener. I use 1 part glue to 2
parts water and make a light paste, and then I lightly apply this over the back
of my work using a paint brush. Allow to
flat dry before gifting or using it as your decoration.
Have a fun creative time.
Do remember that this is the first blog of many for living room doll furniture, so if you’ve liked this experience, add your email id to the blog or follow me so you can get all the other bits of furniture too.
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