Thursday, 5 January 2017

SOME REALLY CUTE TOY FURNITURE -3

crochet toy furniture

SOME REALLY CUTE TOY FURNITURE -3

( #Blogaday 05/365 )


This is the third blog in the series of tiny doll-like furniture I’ve made for a huge order recently.  As I mentioned in the past two days’ blogs, if you liked what you read, then do follow me either via Facebook or this blog so that all future blogs/patterns come straight to your inbox.  Part of what is shown in the photograph above has already been shared in my last two blog posts.

Materials used : Today I’ve used a combination of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply yarn and Vardhaman Millenium DK ply yarn with a 3.5 / 4 mm mm crochet hook 

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                    ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                    rep : Repeat


Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Hdc : Half Double Crochet : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk), yo, draw through all 3 lps.  One hdc made.

Foundation half double crochet : A really lovely way to start a foundation row of chainless double crochet.  This unique way of starting makes your project even https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90iUfQ-_1IM

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

How to join the two ends of your work : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUGb9pIcsXE



Instructions using U.S terminology

In this blog , we’ll once again look at chairs and a futon.
My friend has a really large picture bay window along one of her living room walls, and stretched right across that window is a futon.  As I am trying to recreate her living room with tiny furniture, the futon needed to be made too J
Oh by the way, did you catch my blog on the Xmas tree (one green and one snowy white)?  Well, those trees were also for this friend, and the idea was that that's what she can see from this large picture bay window.. LOL

1.       YET ANOTHER CHAIR
In yesterday’s blog, I shared patterns for three chairs that I've made, and here’s another one that I found.  For this project, here's the free pattern link
However, once I started to make this, I found it way too large for my tiny little (other) furniture, so I have not used it for my lovely furniture montage.  That said, I thought I should add this link here, as it’s a really good pattern.  I have not added this sofa set to my montage, and sadly I did not manage to complete my product before this set of furniture was sent off – so I just leave you with the inspiration made by the designer.  Photo below is not mine but that of the designer shown here to inspire you.





2.     RECTANGULAR FUTON

 crochet toy furniture


Right under a really wonderfully large picture glass window, my friend has positioned a large rectangular futon (I think that’s what it is from the photographs her husband has sent me) – so here’s how I went about making that rectangle.
Information for the rug shown here has been shared in yesterday's blog.

Materials Used : I’ve used our Indian Oswal Cashmilon acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ; some cardboard and finally some insoluble glue.
Size : 1.5” tall ; 1.5” wide ; 5” across






crochet toy furniture

crochet toy furniture

So depending on how wide/tall you want your rectangle, you need to cut out a piece of cardboard.  So for my futon, I folded the cardboard 1.5” x 4 times + 0.5” = 6.5” x 5” piece.  I then marked 1.5” and folded it at the marked points and the last 0.5” is to join it to the start cut to make a rectangle.  Stick together to make the shape needed.
Size : 1” tall ; 1.5” wide ; 5” across

For this piece, I simply worked a fsc chain for the length of the cardboard rectangle I'd made.  I then worked sc in each fsc all the way to the end for the width of the cardboard rectangle.  When I had the width, I worked in the back loop just to get an edge, and then turned to work the 2nd side.  Continue this till you have all four sides.  This makes up the length and width of the cardboard rectangle.
Join the last side also in back loops to finish off the rectangle.
For a neat edge, I re-attached the yarn at one corner (where you have worked sc blo) and worked sl-st all the way in the blo all the way till the end.  That gives it a neat edge.  Work this on all four edges and this gives it a neat rectangular finish.

For the two ends, re-attach your yarn at any one corner, and work sc along the length of one side.  Turn and continue to work sc back and forth till you have the width of that opening done.  Finally attach the other three sides with an embroidery needle or with an sc-join (Check links at the top of this blog for different join methods - and see the photos above as well)

Just before you join off the last side, I stuffed a little bit of polyfill between the box and the yarn on one side, which will be the top of your futon, and give it a nice cushioned effect.  Ta da.. one futon done!


3.     ROUND BOLSTER – 1

crochet toy furniture


In my first blog on cute little toy furniture, I’ve given patterns for little cushions. 

For the rectangular futon, I thought a set of bolsters would look perfect.  Here’s what I did for that.
Read through the pattern first, and then decide if you’re doing it in one color or two, and the pattern thereof.

Materials Used : I’ve used our Indian Oswal Cashmilon acrylic yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook ; some cardboard and finally some insoluble glue.
Size : 2” long x 0.5” diameter

crochet toy furniture


Start : with a magic circle and 11 hdc in that circle. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Work the circle with as many stitches as you want for the circumference of your bolster.  IF you are going to work the Spike Stitch pattern, then you need to work in multiples of 4 + 3 for this start round.

Round 1 : sc-blo in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

This forms the rim of your bolster on one end.

From the following round, I have chosen not to join with a sl-st and work in continuous rounds.  This is just so that I don’t get a join line.  So to keep count (not that it is that important anyway, may I suggest you keep a marker along the last st, and move it along each time).  If you are unable to keep count, go ahead and join with a sl-st.

Round 2 - 8 : sc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around. 

Partly stuff your bolster.  We will finish stuffing it just before you work your final round.

Round 9 : sc-blo in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Notes for pattern and 2-color use : If you’re using 2 colours, as I have, then what I’ve done is work the sc-blo round in the 2nd colour.  I’ve then worked 3 rows in plain sc all around, and in the following row, I’ve worked the Spike Stitch. 
The Spike stitch is a series of long and short stitches used together to get the wavy pattern. 

How to work the Spike Stitch : We use the single crochet and the elongated single crochet stitch working in 2 – 3 rows below.  https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/10/crochet-spike-stitch-tutorial/
In our case, we will work 2 rows of sc first, and then work the Spike stitch along Round 3. 
*Work a sc in the 1st st ; an elongated sc in the next st in the row below, and a longer elongated sc in the next st in the row 2 rows below ; an elongated sc in the next st in the row below* .  You will repeat this array *to*, such that 1st sc in the row you’re working on, next sc in the row below, and the 3rd sc in the row 2 below and then the 4th one will be in the row below again to get the wave effect.  Got it?
So working the Spike stitch in a second colour gives you a neat pattern and just right for this tiny project.
Finishing for both the single coloured as well as the 2-colored bolster are the same.

In our final round, we will work a set of hdc 3-tog and hdc 2-tog to close up our bolster.
Round 10 : hdc 2-tog over in the 1st 2 sc ; (hdc 3-tog over the next 3 sc) ; rep (to) all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off leaving a tail.  Pass the tail through the last few stitches and pull to close.  Finish off the end neatly and push the tail inside the boster.  Glue all ends neatly.
Ta da.. your neat bolster is done!

7A. ROUND BOLSTER - 1

crochet toy furniture

For the 2nd bolster, I’ve worked the same way as before, but for the pattern, instead of the Spike Stitch, I’ve just decided to work an alternate colour every other round. 
Start and ending rounds are exactly the same for both bolsters.

Materials Used : I’ve used our Indian Oswal Cashmilon acrylic yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook ; some cardboard and finally some insoluble glue.
Size : 2” long x 0.5” diameter


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Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few other miscellaneous crochet stuff I’ve already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J