SOAP DISPENSER COVER 7
FRILLY MAGYAR SLEEVED DRESS 1
Just yesterday I made a similar frilly Magyar
sleeved dress and then thought of layering the dress.. so come along .. let’s
work on this together.
Thank you for joining me.
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Materials used : Just
a little bit of Oswal Cashmilon acrylic 3 and 4-ply yarn, with a 4 mm crochet
hook.
You can work in knitting cotton too – I just had
the coolest little bits of acrylic handy so am using up my little bits and
bots.
You can make this project with any yarn
and a hook that suits it.
Skill level : Intermediate to advanced
The stitches are basic. The placement of stitches towards the end of
this pattern are complicated and warrant a better crochet skill level.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Abbreviations used :
(Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)
sc
: Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp
: Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk
: Hook
yo : Yarn Over
fsc : Foundation Single crochet
sc 2-tog : Single crochet 2-together
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
I found a
photograph (below) but am unable to find any written pattern for it. Inspired by this photo, here are my notes for
what I have done.
Before we start
off, there are a few measurements we need to take.
1.
Measure
your bottle(s) and figure out what approx length and width you’d like.
2.
Find
the halfway (or just above halfway)point of your bottle, which will be the
‘waist’ of our dress. Just like a dress
or top that you’d make for a human, check the measurement for the base of your
bottle too – so you can decide which way you will dress up your bottle. Ensure that you make your first row a little
more than the half round measure of the largest part of your bottle – for ease
of slipping the bottle in.
3.
Check
the round ‘neck’ (neck of bottle) measure for your bottle.
Exactly like
yesterday’s pattern, for our dress we will start at the ‘waist’ and head up to
the neck. We will then come back down to
this waist start row and work down for the skirt portion of our dress.
This pattern is
easy to follow when you have a slightly more ‘straight-line’ bottle. You also need to use a little bit of logic
and calculation.
Please check
yesterday’s blog with the magenta dress for lots more photos.
If your bottle
tapers a lot around the ‘neck’ of the bottle and then is steadily large around
the lower part, then I’d suggest you keep your ‘yoke’ a little less – that way
you will get a nice frilly long dress and still not have to calculate too much.
The upper
portion of the dress has no stitch count – you can work in sc / hdc or dc,
without affecting the pattern. We will
work one front and one back for the upper part of our bottle.
The lower part
of the dress has a stitch count in multiples of 3. We will be working this part in a round, in
one piece.
The biggest
difference between yesterday’s creation and today is the length of the
bodice / yoke. As we are working on a
smallish bottle (my bottle stands at about 9” which I think is about standard),
we need to either work with a really thin yarn or reduce the bodice size.
As my yarn has been decided (4 ply and not thin at all ;) ), I’m going to reduce the bodice size. This way we will get more length on the skirt and can work in one layer.
As my yarn has been decided (4 ply and not thin at all ;) ), I’m going to reduce the bodice size. This way we will get more length on the skirt and can work in one layer.
I also decided
to work the bodice in sc – so let’s start on this cutie project , shall we?
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start Row 1 : with as many fsc as you’d need for half the
‘waist’ measure of your bottle in multiples of 2.
Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :
Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete. Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whlsMemDHLc
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Row 2 : sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 fsc ;
sc in the each fsc till the last 2 fsc ;
sc 2-tog over
the last 2 fsc. Turn.
Now check your
gauge.
See how many inches you have
worked in these two rows.
This will tell
you how many more inches you need to get to the ‘neck’ of your bottle. As I said before, if there is a huge gradient
between the neck and whichever part you are starting your 1st row,
you either need to lessen the yoke portion, or you need to decrease.
Rep either Row 2 till you are
one row away from the neck of your work.
For the neck of the bottle, find the halfway
point and calculate how many stitches you need to skip on both sides of this
centre point to allow your bottle nozzle to slip through the neck of your
dress. Place markers on these two side
points.
To decrease for neck : sc in each sc till 2 sts from the 1st
marker ;
sc 2-tog over the last 2 sts.
Turn
and leave the rest of the stitches unworked.
Next row : sc in each sc till end.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Re-attach your
yarn at the 2nd marker for the other side.
To decrease for neck for the other
side of front of work :
sc
2-tog over the 1st 2 sts from the 2nd marker ;
sc in each
sc till end. Turn
Next row : sc in each sc till end.
Fasten off and
weave in ends.
One side done – let’s call this the Front of your dress.
Repeat all these instructions for the back of your dress too.
Once done,
attach your dress along the shoulder and leaving an ‘armhole’ opening, attach
along the sides too.
You now have a
small yoke done. Let’s work on the
frilly base of the dress.
For the base you can work in one color or two. It totally depends on you.
Now turn your
work away from you and go back to working on that first fsc row. We will work on the other side of this first
fsc row. As back and front are joined,
we will work in one round.
Part 2 : Skirt of dress
First let us work in a ‘hole’ row where you can
later thread in your waist cord.
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Start Round 1 : by re-attaching your yarn in any fsc ;
hdc in that fsc ;
(sk next fsc ; hdc
in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) till
end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Now we will
work our Shell st in each ch-sp / “hole” that we have created all around to get
a nice frilly base.
We will use a Shell stitch which is (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp , Shell st in that
same 1st ch-1 sp ;
Shell st in
each ch-1 sp all around ;
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp of the 1st
Shell st ;
Shell st in
that same 1st ch-2 sp ;
Shell st in
each Shell st all around ;
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
Rep Round 3
till you are three rows before the length you need for your dress.
How do you know
if you are three rows before the length? Check gauge.
Calculate how many inches you are adding per
row and see how many rows you need to finish.
Easy enough, right?
For our first
row of frill, we will work the Shell st in the space between two shell
stitches. So go ahead and attach your
contrast yarn (do not fasten off the main yarn) in the space between two shell
stitches, and work a full round of shell stitches in the space between two
adjacent shell stitches.
Fasten off the
contrast colour and move your main colour down.
How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
Once you have
finished the row of contrast colour, you will work one round of Shell sts in
the main colour, and once again, you will work the stitches in the space
between each Shell st as you have been doing all along.
Just changing
where you place your shell will give it a layered look.
Next round : (Using the contrast colour) :
sl-st into the
1st sp between two Shell sts ;
Shell st in
that same 1st sp ;
[sk next Shell
st , Shell st in the next sp between 2 Shell sts] ;
rep [to] all
around ;
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
Next round : (Using the contrast colour) :
sl-st into the
ch-2 sp of the 1st shell that you just worked using contrast colour
;
5 dc in that
same 1st ch-2 sp ;
(sc in the
space between the 2 Shell sts ;
5 dc in the next ch-2 sp of the next Shell st)
;
rep (to) all around ;
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
With this we
finish the frill.
Now you will go back
to working with the main colour and in the work below this frill.
Next round : (Using the main colour) :
sl-st into the
1st ch-2 sp of the 1st Shell st ;
Shell st in
that same 1st ch-2 sp ;
Shell st in
each Shell st all around ;
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
For our final
round, you may want to change colour.
If you do, then use this contrast colour
for this border, as well as the sleeves, the edging of neck and the lacing that
goes around waist.
Last Round : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp of the
1st Shell st ;
5 dc in that
same 1st ch-2 sp ;
(sc in the
space between the 2 Shell sts ;
5 dc in the next ch-2 sp of the next Shell st)
;
rep (to) all around ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
neck finishing : Re-attach your
contrast yarn (if using contrast) to any stitch in the neck. Sc in that st and in each st all around.
Use this round to neatly weave in all your
ends and hide them away.
Armhole
finishing : Re-attach your
contrast yarn (if using contrast) to any stitch in the armhole (preferably
right in the bottom centre).
Work a
round of sc all around in multiples of 3
Now let’s work a round of Shell st all around.
Shell st in the
1st sc ;
(sk next 2 c ;
Shell st in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) till
end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Waist cord : You can either make one with the contrast
yarn, or just get a satin ribbon that you will pass through the hole row
between yoke and skirt portion of your dress.
In case you are
making it, then just work a sc chain for as long as you need to go around the
body of you dress and have sufficient to make a nice bow.
Then work a sc in each st all the way back to
the end to give your cord a little body.
A simpler way
would be to work a fsc chain for the length needed for your cord.
If you work
the fsc chain, you just finish off and weave in ends when you have got the
length needed. Weave it neatly through
the holes and make a lovely bow.
Weave in all
ends and glue them all down.
Ta da ! One absolutely
beautiful dressy soap dispenser cover ready!
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