Sweet Nothings Crochet: A POINSETTIA INSPIRED NAPKIN DISPENSER

photo of the poinsettia inspired crochet napkin holder

A POINSETTIA INSPIRED NAPKIN DISPENSER

A few days back I shared a Santa inspired napkin/tissue holder and then I saw this Poinsettia flower motif.. and I knew it was the perfect addition to any gift bag.

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This is a pattern I’ve come up with by looking at this photograph & chart.

Materials used : Today I’ve used one skein of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply yarns with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

This yarn is not specific for this pattern. Use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this creation today.

For Indians : You could use Anchor or Red rose knitting cotton yarn as well

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Abbreviations used :

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

MC : Main Colour

CC : Contrast Colour

fsc : Foundation single crochet

dc : Double crochet

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Instructions using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

There are two parts to the Poinsettia napkin dispenser.

One is the simpler set of granny squares that make the base, and one is the little Poinsettia motif.

Part 1 : Granny square base

For the granny square, you can choose any pattern and stitch you like.

All you need to do is ensure that you get the square to the size measurements of the tissue you are going to keep inside.

If you’d like to follow my pattern, here goes. I started with white and used white all the way till the last round, where I changed to the festive red.

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Start with a magic circle ;

(3 hdc ; ch 2) in the magic circle ;

rep (to) 3 times

and join with a sl-st to the 1^st hdc.

Pull lightly to close the circle.

Round 1 : sl-st to the 1^st ch-2 corner sp ;

(3 hdc ; ch 2, 3 hdc) all in the same corner ch-2 sp ;

*ch 1, sk next 3 hdc ;

rep (to) in the next corner ch-2 sp* ;

rep *to* all around;

ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 2 : sl-st to the 1^st ch-2 corner sp ;

(3 hdc ; ch 2, 3 hdc) all in the same corner ch-2 sp ;

*ch 1, sk next 3 hdc, 3 hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, rep (to) in the next corner ch-2 sp* ;

rep *to* all around;

ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Rep Round 2 till your project is a neat square and is suitable to the square size of the tissue you’re going to put inside.

Note : After working a few rounds, you may not be next to the corner sp, so you do not need to sl-st all the way to the corner. You just need to remember that in every ch-1 sp, you will work 3 hdc ; and in each corner sp, you will work (3 hdc ; ch 2, 3 hdc)

Before you end off, please read the notes for the Granny Square joining strip in Part 2 and decide how large you want your square.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rep all these instructions for the 2^nd (lower portion) granny square.

So you now have two granny squares ready.

Part 2 : Granny square joining

There are two ideas to joining our two granny squares.

Having written down these two ideas, I have decided to work the Poinsettia napkin dispenser using Option below, and have used a different option for the the Santa dispenser.

So go ahead https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2016/12/a-santa-inspired-napkin-dispenser.html for the Santa pattern.

So here are 2 ideas

1) You decide to make two granny squares about an inch larger than the paper napkins, such that you will attach the two squares directly one to the other, and you will still have a little ease to slip in your napkins. If you have decided on this option, then skip all instructions below, and go straight to the joining / finishing section Part 3.

2) You make two granny squares depending on the size of the paper napkins you are going to keep inside – so you will place your granny square on top of the paper napkin, and just ensure that you have a small extra margin for ease. If you decide to work this exact sized finish, then you will need to attach the joining strip

As you’ve stayed on, you’ve decided to make the joining strip.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

For the strip, there’s a small calculation.

1) Count the number of 3-dc sets and ch-1 sps you have from one end to the other, starting and ending with a 3-dc set (corner to corner).

2) Your count per side will be this number + 2. So say you have a five 3-dc sets across, that’s 15 ; plus four ch-1 sps = 19 + 2 = 21, per side.

3) You will then multiply this number x 4 for all sides (so per calculation above 21 x 4 = 84)

4) Now that you have the number of stitches needed, work an fdc strip for that number.. so in this case, you will work a strip of 84 fdc.

5) Do not finish off or weave in after you finish the 84^th fdc, but carry on for finishing instructions.

Part 3 : Joining and finishing

If you have decided on Option 1, then you have two granny squares about 1” larger than your paper napkins. Hold your squares such that you align the corners and the stitches. Use one of the joining methods given above to join your two squares all the way end to end on two sides. On the third side, you will only attach halfway through both sections and you will then fasten off. Re-attach you yarn halfway down the fourth section and join that section all the way to the start join stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

If you have decided on Option 2 and have made your fdc strip : Hold your strip starting at one corner, and using one of the joining methods given above, join one side of your fdc strip to one side of the granny square. Join all four sides of your granny square to the fdc strip. Fasten off and weave in ends.

This forms the bottom part of your napkin holder.

For the top part, you have once again two options !!

a) You can work in white yarn, and join the two sides to the fdc strip. On the third side you will only attach halfway through both sections and you will then fasten off. Re-attach you yarn halfway down the fourth section and join that section all the way to the start join stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends. You will then work in a row of finishing picot in red yarn. For the picot decoration, I have worked a (sc in the 1^st st ; sc + picot in the next). In the corner space, I worked 2 sc + picot. I have used the ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3^rd ch from hk).

b) You work the (a) option, but using Red yarn directly. IF using this option, please note that (i) you are going to be joining one side of your granny square to one side of your fdc chain AND (ii) at the same time, you will be working a sc + picot every alternate st, plus 2 sc + picot every corner AND (iii) you need to remember that you are only working 2 full sections this way, and then working the decorative sc + picot only on the top flap of the holder.

c) Whichever method you choose from (a) or (b) above, you will need to work a row of sc on the top of the fdc chain for the opening flap. So the top part of your flap will have the decorative picot, but for the lower part (i.e top of the fdc chain), we will just work sc all through. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Great job! The little napkin holder is ready. We will now work on our cute little Poinsettia Motif.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Part 4 : Poinsettia Motif

Poinsettia Medium Sized Petals :

This is our second set of leaves. Like for the first round of small petals, this round too will start with a magic circle and the petals that come off the centre piece.

For our poinsettia flower, we will work all of our petals in one colour (MC : Main Colour). For the first petal round, we will work the first round in the contrast colour (CC) that you want for the centre of your flower. For all other petals, you will work without the centre portion.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Start : (using CC for flower centre)

with a magic circle and 15 sc in that circle.

Pull lightly to close. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Fasten off CC, and attach MC.

In the following round, we will work half our round in pink (for face) and the other half in white (for beard).

Row 1 : (using MC) : sc in the 1^st 3 sc. Turn.

Row 2 : (using MC) : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

sc in the next 2 sc. Turn.

Row 3 : (using MC) : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

sc in the next 3 sc. Turn.

Row 4 : (using MC) : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

sc in the next 3 sc ;

2 sc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 5 : (using MC) : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

sc in the next 5 sc ;

2 sc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 6 : (using MC) : 3 sc in the 1^st sc ;

sc in the next 7 sc ;

3 sc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 7 : (using MC) : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

sc in the next 11 sc ;

2 sc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 8 : (using MC) : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

sc in the next 13 sc ;

2 sc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 9 - 12 : (using MC) : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc till end. Turn.

From the following row on, we’ll start decreasing and shaping our petals.

We will use the single crochet 2-together (sc 2-tog).

Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :

Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete. Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whlsMemDHLc

Row 13 : Decrease row : (using MC) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

sc in the next 13 sc ;

sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 14 : Decrease row : (using MC) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

sc in the next 11 sc ;

sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 15 : Decrease row : (using MC) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

sc in the next 9 sc ;

sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 16 : Decrease row : (using MC) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

sc in the next 7 sc ;

sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 17 : Decrease row : (using MC) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

sc in the next 5 sc ;

sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 18 : Decrease row : (using MC) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

sc in the next 3 sc ;

sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 19 : Decrease row : (using MC) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

sc in the next sc ;

sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.

In our final row, we will use a sc 3-tog to finish off the little petal.

Single crochet 3-tog : sc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at

https://youtu.be/pprfB-z607Q

Row 20 : Decrease row : (using MC) :

sc 3-tog over all 3 sc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

One little poinsettia petal made.

For the next four petals, we will work Rows 2 – 20 off the 1^st CC round of the petal centre, and only use MC yarn all through.

2^nd to 5^th petals : Re-attach your red MC yarn in the next sc of Round 1.

Work Rows 2 – 20 for each petal till end.

Fasten off and weave + glue in all ends.

Keep aside till we assemble our flower.

Poinsettia Small Petals

Each round of petals (we will make two or three – depends on you), you will work five petals all around.

Start : (using CC for flower centre)

with a magic circle and 15 sc in that circle.

Pull lightly to close.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Fasten off CC, and attach MC.

In the following round, we will work half our round in pink (for face) and the other half in white (for beard).

Row 1 : (using MC) : sc in the 1^st 3 sc. Turn.

Row 2 : (using MC) : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

sc in the next sc ;

2 sc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 3 : (using MC) : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

sc in the next 3 sc ;

2 sc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 4 : (using MC) : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

sc in the next 5 sc ;

2 sc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 5 : (using MC) : 3 sc in the 1^st sc ;

sc in the next 7 sc ;

3 sc in the last sc. Turn.

Rows 6 & 7 : (using MC) :

sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc till end. Turn.

From the following row on, we’ll start decreasing and shaping our petals.

We will use the single crochet 2-together (sc 2-tog).

Please check the top of this blog for a “how to” if needed.

Row 8 : Decrease row : (using MC) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

sc in the next 9 sc ;

sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 9 : Decrease row : (using MC) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

sc in the next 7 sc ;

sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 10 : Decrease row : (using MC) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

sc in the next 5 sc ;

sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 11 : Decrease row : (using MC) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

sc in the next 3 sc ;

sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 12 : Decrease row : (using MC) :

sc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 sc ;

sc in the next sc ;

sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.

In our final row, we will use a sc 3-tog to finish off the little petal.

One little poinsettia petal made.

For the next four petals, we will work Rows 2 – 12 off the 1^st CC round of the petal centre, and only use MC yarn all through.

2^nd to 5^th petals : Re-attach your red MC yarn in the next sc of Round 1.

Work Rows 2 – 12 for each petal till end.

Fasten off and weave + glue in all ends.

Keep aside till we assemble our flower.

Napkin Dispenser Finishing :

photo of the top of the poinsettia napkin holder

You now have the base of the napkin dispenser (the granny squares) and the Poinsettia motif.

See the picture – one section of your granny square is folded back to provide easy access to the napkins. I’ll suggest that you attach your little motif onto this opened section so that it not only keeps the section open, but also looks trendy.

Depending on how much of it you want stitched down, work your stitches around the cap and face (as needed) to secure your motif to the granny square base.

Now that you’re done with the dispenser, and find how easy it is to fashion out a Poinsettia motif, maybe you’d like to make a few more Poinsettia motifs to string up around the tree or mantle ? hmmm.. so many ideas.. one small blog

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