Sweet Nothings Crochet: UNICORN SOAP DISPENSER COVER

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pattern for a unicorn soap dispenser bottle cover, this blog has video tutorials, photo of unicorn soap dispenser

UNICORN SOAP DISPENSER COVER

The Unicorn has skipped back into my life and work.

Today we’re working on a Unicorn Soap dispenser cover

Thank you for joining me.

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Cheers. Enjoy

While this cover has been made specifically for a soap dispenser, it will look lovely as a wine bottle cover too.

Materials used : Just a little bit of Oswal Cashmilon acrylic 4-ply yarn, with a 4 mm crochet hook.

You can work in knitting cotton too – I just had the coolest little bits of acrylic handy so am using up my little bits of stash.

You can make this project with any yarn and a hook that suits it.

Skill level : Easy

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using US terminology)

Please note that I start all my rounds with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for a video tutorial on all the stitches needed to make this full project.

Let’s visualize our project before we start, shall we?

We are making a Unicorn soap dispenser cover today.

So I thought of using the Messy Bun Cap idea for our cover today.

What does that mean?

Well, we will start at the crown of the cap but not close that end up.

This end then is the top of your dispenser where the knob / “pushy part” of your dispenser goes through.

The rest of the cap is then worked all the way to the bottom for the length of your bottle.

We then have a fun time making lots of spirally bits in pastel colours to attach as the mane of our unicorn.

Finally, we work on the eyes , ears and horn.

What do you need to do before you start?

1. Measure your bottle(s) and figure out what approx length and width you’d like.

2. You also need to measure the ‘neck’ of your bottle and ensure that the opening (of this Messy Bun Cap) goes around.

I work a ch 1 as a turning chain at the start of each row for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for loads of video tutorials on how I work a chain-less start for all my stitches.

Part 1 : Unicorn body

Start Round 1 : Using white : with 18 ch.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

If you have a standard bottle with a standard nozzle / knob, this should suffice.

In case you have a larger knob, work as many chain as needed to go comfortably around.

In the next round, however, work the same number of stitches as given.

I have worked hdc, but you could work a dc or sc as well.

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Round 2 : work 22 hdc in the circle made.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 3 : 2 hdc in the 1^st hdc ;

*hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 4 : 2 dc in the 1^st hdc ;

*dc in the next 2 hdc ; 2 dc in the next hdc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 5 : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc all around ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Now place this onto your bottle and see if you need any further increases.

I do not think you do, so we will now continue without increase for the length of the bottle.

Rep Round 5, without increase, till you are 1 row away from the end.

Fasten off white. Attach pink yarn.

How do you calculate if you are one row away?

You measure how many cm / inches you get in length per row and see how far off the end you are. (Yes, this is also how we work out gauge)

Easy enough, right?

Last Round 5 : Using pink ;

hdc in the 1^st dc and in each dc all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Part 2 : Eyes :

For the eyes, you could use a ready made eye and just attach it on ; or embroider in one of these cute closed eye lids or follow along and make this dangerously large eye ;)

For the eye I've made, there are several parts. .. from the black of the eye in the centre working outwards.

Centre Black of eye : Using black yarn

Start with a magic circle and work 9 hdc in it.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off black yarn.

Attach blue yarn at the last st of the black yarn.

Blue lower lining for eye : Using blue yarn.

sc in the st ;

(2 sc in the next st ; sc in the next st) ;

rep (to) once.

Fasten off blue yarn.

Attach white yarn in the black stitch , one stitch before where you started with the blue yarn.

We are working the row of white under the blue.

White lower lining for eye : Using white yarn.

sc in the 1^st (black) st ; 2 sc in the next (blue) st ;

(sc in the next st ; 2 sc in the next st) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

sc in the next (black) st.

Fasten off white yarn.

Re-attach black yarn just where you finish off white yarn.

Note : For the 2^nd eye, you will attach black yarn at the opposite end i.e. where you started with white yarn.

In the last bit, we are working with black yarn for the top of the eye.

So we start with a dc and then work over the black centre of eye stitches and finally end on the white 2^nd row lining for lower eye.

Rather than get confused, just work the stitches as given where ever it takes you and you’ll get a cute end result.

Upper Black of eye : Using black yarn

2 dc in the same last st (where you have just worked with white yarn) ;

(now we are going to work sl-st and go back to the top of the eye) ;

2 sl-st down the post of the dc ; sc in the same last st ;

sc in the next st ; hdc in the next 2 sts ; sc in the next 2 sts ; sl-st in the next st.

Fasten off black yarn, leaving a tail for attachment.

Shine in the eye : Using white yarn and an embroidery needle, embroider in a “V” and a small dot for the shine of the eye.

Eye lashes above the eye :

Using black yarn and an embroidery needle, embroider in a few long lashes leading off the top of the eye.

Note : In case you do embroider in eye lashes, you need to mirror them when you work the second side – but you knew that.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Isn’t this a fantastic eye?

Repeat all these instructions for the other eye, mirroring the instructions for the last row i.e. Upper Black of eye will start at the opposite side from this one.

Part 3 : Horn

For the eyes, we will use yellow or multi coloured yarn.

It is preferred to work the horn in spirals and do not join at the end.

Please place a marker at the last st of every round and move marker forward at the end of each round.

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and work 4 sc in it.

Pull to close but do not join with a sl-st.

We will work in spirals from here on.

Place marker on last st.

Round 2 : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

(sc in the next sc ; 2 sc in the next sc) ;

sc in the last sc.

Move marker.

Round 3 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around.

Move marker.

Round 4 : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

(sc in the next 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc) ;

rep (to) once.

Move marker.

Round 5 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around.

Move marker.

Round 6 : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

(sc in the next 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc) ;

sc in the last sc.

Move marker.

Round 7 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around.

Move marker.

Round 8 : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

(sc in the next 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc) ;

sc in the last sc.

Move marker.

Round 9 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around.

Move marker.

Round 10 : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

(sc in the next 5 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc) ;

sc in the last sc.

Move marker.

Round 11 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around.

Move marker.

Round 12 : 2 sc in the 1^st sc ;

(sc in the next 6 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc) ;

sc in the last sc.

Move marker.

Round 13 : sc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around.

Move marker.

Fasten off and leave a tail for attachment.

Stuff with poly-fill and then attach.

Ensure that you encase your poly-fill inside stocking net and make tiny balls.

To do this, cut a small piece of stocking net and wrap a ball of poly-fill inside it.

Run a round of running stitch all around the stocking net and pull tight to neatly encase the poly-fill inside.

This not only prevents filling from coming out during washing, but you can be sure that bits of poly-fill do not go into a child’s mouth during play when you're using it to make stuffed toys.

Part 4 : Ears Make two

For the ears, we will use white yarn.

Start Row 1 : with a magic circle and work 5 hdc in it.

Do not pull together into a circle.

Leave as a semi circle. Turn.

Row 2 : 2 hdc in the 1^st hdc ;

hdc in the next 3 hdc ;

2 hdc in the last hdc. Turn.

Rows 3 & 4 : hdc in the 1^st hdc and in each hdc till the end. Turn.

In the following row we will work a hdc decrease stitch.

Half double crochet 2-tog : hdc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp] (3 lps on hk) ; insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all 4 lps on hk. One hdc 2-tog made.

Check the video tutorial at https://youtu.be/jdaXTr7Lcig

Row 5 : hdc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 hdc ;

hdc in the next 3 hdc ;

hdc 2-tog over the last 2 hdc. Turn.

Row 6 : hdc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 hdc ;

hdc in the next hdc ;

hdc 2-tog over the last 2 hdc. Turn.

Now we will just work a nice round of sc all around and neaten up our edges.

It does not matter how many sc you work all around.

Just keep a count of it so you can work the same number for the second ear.

Fasten off and leave a tail for attachment.

Part 5 : Hair tendrils

Make as many as you want

For the hair tendrils, work with different coloured yarns.

The pattern is the same for each tendril.

In case the video does not come on automatically, go to https://youtu.be/SQMMFQPhcoE

Start Row 1 : with about 25 ch. Turn.

If you want a longer tendril, work 30 ch.

Row 2 : 3 hdc in the 2^nd ch from hk ;

3 hdc in the next ch and in each ch till end.

Fasten off and leave a tail for joining.

Part 6 : Finishing :

1. Place the unicorn body onto the bottle and mark spot for the eyes. Attach the two eyes in the centre of the face.

2. Attach the horn between the two eyes, just above it.

3. Attach the ears on either side of the horn.

4. Weave in the hair at the back of the head.

I am sure you are going to have a fun creative day and I am waiting to see all your photographs.

Remember to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook. I’d love to feature your photos on my FB page. Cheers.

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Here are some of my earlier home use / miscellaneous projects.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2020/05/kitty-towel-ring-holder.html