Thursday, 9 February 2017

Zee’s SHELLED TOP

free crochet top pattern, free crochet shelled top pattern

Zee’s SHELLED TOP


This is a neat simple shelled top for a friend’s daughter.  She chose this pattern out of a whole assortment – so I guess this is what the young ‘uns are wearing now J
Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Do check my long pinterest “to-do” list for little ladies jackets / boleros at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ladies-tops-to-make/

And inspired by this photo, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.



Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 350 gms of our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook ;
Optional : Stitch marker

Size made : for 34” bust ; 24” length

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 


How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                               sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                         hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                 yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                      sc : Single crochet
trc : Triple / Treble crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

Before we start on our journey, as usual, let’s see what we’re going to do here.  We start our top at the waist and work our way up to the shoulders and neck.

FRONT & BACK (Make two)

free crochet top pattern, free crochet shelled top pattern





Start : with as many fsc as you’d need for the waist in multiples of 10 + 1.  Turn.

From this row on, we’ll use our Shell Stitch which is (dc ; ch 3, dc all in the same st or ch-sp)
Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 3, sk next 4 fsc, Shell St in the next fsc ;
ch 3, sk next 4 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ; 
rep *to* till the end. Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1st sc ;
*[3 sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
(sk next dc, 5 sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
sk next dc, rep [to] once ; sk next sc* ;
rep *to* till end ; sc in the last sc.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st sc ;
*sk next 3 sc, dc in the next sc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
sk next 3 sc, dc in the sp between the 3rd & 4th sc* ;
rep *to* till end ; dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 3, sk 2 dc and ch-1 sp ; sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 3, sk next dc , sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc and ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 5 : sc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp & sc, Shell St in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

And believe it or not, you’ve finished one pattern repeat.

free crochet top pattern, free crochet shelled top pattern

free crochet shelled top pattern, free crochet top pattern

Rep Rows 2 – 5 , ending with Row 3, till you reach the neckline level (depending on how low you want your neckline
J )
This pattern has a straight armhole cut, so you will continue all the way till you reach the neckline.  Remember you’re ending with Row 3.

So just before your last Row 3,
(a)           decide on the two side points for your neckline and mark them off the centre and
(b)           Decide if this is the front or back of your work.

You will then work the Row 4, till that marked side point (that decides the side of your neckline) ; and you will then turn and work back to the armhole.  You will continue all the way back and forth from armhole to the neckline point all the way to the shoulder. Once you reach the shoulder, fasten off and weave in ends.

Once you’re finished with one side of your top, you will re-attach your yarn at the 2nd marker (for the other side of your neckline) and work from the 2nd marker all the way to the armhole edge.  Work from the armhole to the 2nd marker all the way to mirror the 1st side you’ve just completed.
Once you reach the shoulder, fasten off and weave in ends again.

This completes one side of your work.  Depending on how deep you have worked this neckline, you have completed either your front or back of your work.
Work all these instructions for the other side of your top as well.

Just as you reach the shoulders, you can attach the two shoulder bits as you finish OR you could finish off and then attach the shoulders.

I have decided to work the sleeves first, attach the sleeves, and then work one straight joint continuous motion all the way from the end of the sleeves past the armhole and down the sides.  But this is just me.. you could decide to join the sides, and then slip the sleeve into the armhole opening as well.

Sleeve ideas :


The sleeve has the same pattern as the body of the top. 
So starting from the end of the sleeves (i.e near the elbows), work the same instructions for the sleeve and work it up to the armhole.
The sleeve end is straight as well, so once you’ve got the sleeve length sorted out, you finish the sleeve leaving a long tail to attach the sleeve to the armhole opening.

I’ve already told you about the two attachment ideas.. so go ahead, finish the sleeves, and attach them to the armhole opening.  We will meet back shortly for the border.

Sleeve and sides attachment ideas :
The sleeve as well as the body of your top (armhole) have a straight line finish.  So find the centre of your sleeve, and attach that to the shoulders.  Pin the two sides of the sleeve neatly along the sides of the top for armhole,and then attach the two pieces using one of the attachment methods given above.

What I have done is then work one row of attachment from the sides of the top all the way down to the end of the sleeve in one continuous row.  I feel this is a neat finish and also really simple in case you wish to increase the side width at some later date ;)

Finally, I have decided to join from sleeve all the way down to the last 2.5”, leaving a small side flap unjoined at the sides.  Just another idea that you can take forward too.

Border :


The sleeves, neckline as well as the bottom of the front and back have a small border, which you may opt to make.  If you decide to do this, carry on with these instructions.  Even if you decide not to do it, may I suggest you run one row of sc all around the end of the sleeves, neckline as well as the border of the front and back for a neat finish.

Attach your yarn at one end of the bottom and let’s work the bottom border first.

In case you have left the sides open as well, please read the Optional instructions.

Our stitch count is 4, so ensure that you get this count.  Just tweak by adding a few stitches all around to get the count right.

Round 1 : sc in the 1st fsc and work 1 sc in each fsc all the way around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

In our next round, lets work a simple Shell Stitch which will be (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same sp or st.
Round 2 : Shell st in the 1st sc ;
(sk next 3 sc, Shell st in the next sc) ;
rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

OPTIONAL Round 2 : 3 dc in the 1st sc ;
(sk next 3 sc, Shell st in the next sc) ;
rep (to) till last 4 sc ; sk next 3 sc, 3 dc in the last sc.


In our following row, we will be skipping the Shell sts and working in the space between 2 Shell stitches.  Now note that we do not have a ch-sp here, its just that area between 2 sts, ok?
Round 3 : sl-st past the 1st Shell st and into the area between the 1st and 2nd Shell sts ;  (dc ; ch 3, dc in the sp between the 2 Shell sts) ;
*ch 1, rep (to)* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

OPTIONAL Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; sk next 2 dc and work in the area between the 1st and 2nd Shell sts ;  (dc ; ch 3, dc in the sp between the 2 Shell sts) ;
*ch 1, rep (to)* ;
rep *to* till the last 3 dc ; sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc.

In our final round, let’s work a decorative picot. Our picot is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3rd ch from hk).  We will work an sc, and then a picot off that sc to keep it upright and neat.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
*(sc ; sc + picot ; sc in the ch-3 sp) ; sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

OPTIONAL Round 4 : sc in the 1st dc ; *sk next dc (sc ; sc + picot ; sc in the ch-3 sp) ; sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ; sc in the last dc.

Great. The bottom of your top is done.  Repeat these instructions for around the end of the sleeve and the neckline as well. 
Remember, you need to keep the stitch count right.

Fasten off and weave /glue in ends. 

Blocking ideas : Block by placing your top under a lightly damp muslin cloth and ironing from over the muslin cloth, stretching it lightly to give it shape.  Remember that you should not iron your top directly, especially if you have used acrylic and not used cotton/linen.

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Have a great day and see you soon. J