Sweet Nothings Crochet: Zee’s SHELLED TOP

Zee’s SHELLED TOP

This is a neat simple shelled top for a friend’s daughter. She chose this pattern out of a whole assortment – so I guess this is what the young ‘uns are wearing now

Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

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And inspired by this photo, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 350 gms of our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook ;

Optional : Stitch marker

For Indians : You could use Red rose yarn as well

For Non-Indians : I have used a regular knitting cotton that technically uses a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook (recommended). I use a larger hook as I like the extra stretch it affords the end product. Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size made : for 34” bust ; 24” length

Difficulty level : Advanced Skill level

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Before we start on our journey, as usual, let’s see what we’re going to do here. We start our top at the waist and work our way up to the shoulders and neck.

FRONT & BACK (Make two)

The stitch count is in multiples of 10 + 1

Start : with as many fsc as you’d need for the waist in multiples of 10 + 1. Turn.

From this row on, we’ll use our Shell Stitch which is (dc ; ch 3, dc all in the same st or ch-sp)

Row 1 : sc in the 1^st fsc ;

*ch 3, sk next 4 fsc, Shell St in the next fsc ;

ch 3, sk next 4 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1^st sc ;

*[3 sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;

(sk next dc, 5 sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

sk next dc, rep [to] once ; sk next sc* ;

rep *to* till end ;

sc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st sc ;

*sk next 3 sc, dc in the next sc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next sc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

sk next 3 sc, dc in the sp between the 3^rd & 4^th sc* ;

rep *to* till end ;

dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 3, sk 2 dc and ch-1 sp ; sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next dc , sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next 2 dc and ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 5 : sc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp & sc, Shell St in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

And believe it or not, you’ve finished one pattern repeat.

Rep Rows 2 – 5 , ending with Row 3, till you reach the neckline level (depending on how low you want your neckline )

This pattern has a straight armhole cut, so you will continue all the way till you reach the neckline. Remember we’re ending with Row 3.

So just before your last Row 3,

(a) decide on the two side points for your neckline and mark them off the centre and

(b) Decide if this is the front or back of your work.

You will then work the Row 4, till that marked side point (that decides the side of your neckline) ; and you will then turn and work back to the armhole. You will continue all the way back and forth from armhole to the neckline point all the way to the shoulder. Once you reach the shoulder, fasten off and weave in ends.

Once you’re finished with one side of your top, you will re-attach your yarn at the 2^nd marker (for the other side of your neckline) and work from the 2^nd marker all the way to the armhole edge. Work from the armhole to the 2^nd marker all the way to mirror the 1^st side you’ve just completed.

Once you reach the shoulder, fasten off and weave in ends again.

This completes one side of your work. Depending on how deep you have worked this neckline, you have completed either your front or back of your work.
Work all these instructions for the other side of your top as well.

Just as you reach the shoulders, you can attach the two shoulder bits as you finish OR you could finish off and then attach the shoulders.

I have decided to work the sleeves first, attach the sleeves, and then work one straight joint continuous motion all the way from the end of the sleeves past the armhole and down the sides. But this is just me.. you could decide to join the sides, and then slip the sleeve into the armhole opening as well.

Sleeve ideas :

The sleeve has the same pattern as the body of the top.

So starting from the end of the sleeves (i.e near the elbows), work the same instructions for the sleeve and work it up to the armhole.

The sleeve end is straight as well, so once you’ve got the sleeve length sorted out, you finish the sleeve leaving a long tail to attach the sleeve to the armhole opening.

I’ve already told you about the two attachment ideas.. so go ahead, finish the sleeves, and attach them to the armhole opening. We will meet back shortly for the border.

Sleeve and sides attachment ideas :

The sleeve as well as the body of your top (armhole) have a straight line finish. So find the centre of your sleeve, and attach that to the shoulders. Pin the two sides of the sleeve neatly along the sides of the top for armhole,and then attach the two pieces using one of the attachment methods given above.

What I have done is then work one row of attachment from the sides of the top all the way down to the end of the sleeve in one continuous row. I feel this is a neat finish and also really simple in case you wish to increase the side width at some later date ;)

Finally, I have decided to join from sleeve all the way down to the last 2.5”, leaving a small side flap unjoined at the sides. Just another idea that you can take forward too.

Border :

The sleeves, neckline as well as the bottom of the front and back have a small border, which you may opt to make. If you decide to do this, carry on with these instructions. Even if you decide not to do it, may I suggest you run one row of sc all around the end of the sleeves, neckline as well as the border of the front and back for a neat finish.

Attach your yarn at one end of the bottom and let’s work the bottom border first.

In case you have left the sides open as well, please read the Optional instructions.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 4, so ensure that you get this count.

Just tweak by adding a few stitches all around to get the count right.

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st fsc and work 1 sc in each fsc all the way around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

In our next round, let's work a simple Shell Stitch which will be (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same sp or st.

Round 2 : Shell st in the 1^st sc ;

(sk next 3 sc, Shell st in the next sc) ;

rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

OPTIONAL Round 2 : 3 dc in the 1^st sc ;

(sk next 3 sc, Shell st in the next sc) ;

rep (to) till last 4 sc ; sk next 3 sc, 3 dc in the last sc.

In our following row, we will be skipping the Shell sts and working in the space between 2 Shell stitches. Now note that we do not have a ch-sp here, its just that area between 2 sts, ok?

Round 3 : sl-st past the 1^st Shell st and into the area between the 1^st and 2^nd Shell sts ; (dc ; ch 3, dc in the sp between the 2 Shell sts) ;

*ch 1, rep (to)* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

OPTIONAL Round 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ; sk next 2 dc and work in the area between the 1^st and 2^nd Shell sts ; (dc ; ch 3, dc in the sp between the 2 Shell sts) ;

*ch 1, rep (to)* ;

rep *to* till the last 3 dc ; sk next 2 dc, dc in the last dc.

In our final round, let’s work a decorative picot. Our picot is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3^rd ch from hk). We will work an sc, and then a picot off that sc to keep it upright and neat.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

*(sc ; sc + picot ; sc in the ch-3 sp) ; sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

OPTIONAL Round 4 : sc in the 1^st dc ; *sk next dc (sc ; sc + picot ; sc in the ch-3 sp) ; sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last dc ; sc in the last dc.

Great. The bottom of your top is done.

Repeat these instructions for around the end of the sleeve and the neckline as well.

Remember, you need to keep the stitch count right.

Fasten off and weave /glue in ends.

Blocking ideas : Block by placing your top under a lightly damp muslin cloth and ironing from over the muslin cloth, stretching it lightly to give it shape. Remember that you should not iron your top directly, especially if you have used acrylic and not used cotton/linen.

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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/06/rangeela-top.html