Wednesday, 16 November 2016

ALL STARS SWEATER with a headband

crochet girls sweater

ALL STARS SWEATER with a headband

This is a really simple project for a cute young lady.  I gave a whole set of ideas to the mum and she wanted something ‘really simple’… and we settled on a version of this sweater. 
As I was given so much flexibility  for this pattern, I went a little berserk ;)

I have used a combination of two coloured yarns for the yoke, and one idea was to continue the dual color combination to the sleeves.. and then, just for kicks, I tried the ‘body pattern’ on the other sleeve.. and also along the front placket.  This blog is chockablock many ideas .. Let your creativity flow!
Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 200 gms of the lovely Bella Baby Baby Marvel Soft Baby 4-ply (in pistachio green) & 100 gms of Bella Baby Marvel Soft Baby 4-ply acrylic yarn (in offwhite) with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
Col 80349735 , Lot K2748

 Optional : Stitch marker
For Indians : The yarn I’ve used is a lot like our 3 / 4 ply Indian Oswal Cashmilon

Size made : For a 5 yr old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

How to do a picot stitch :A neat video link to refresh this procedure.

Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :

How to join sides with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join sides with whip stich : Check the links below :

Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                              sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                        hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                      sc : Single crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today. We start at the neckline and work our way down to the bottom of the sweater.  The neckline is a raglan shaped presentation and there is a ready reference chart for different sizes at the top of this blog.
Once we have reached the armhole or the round chest size of the child, we will continue straight down without increases.
I have decided to work my sweater in one piece, starting at the centre front, working around the back and then coming back to the front from the other side.
You could decide to divide at the armholes, and then work two fronts and one back piece separately and then join them along the sides as well.

The yoke portion is worked in all dc – but you could choose to work in hdc as well.  Remember though that the smaller your stitch size (and yarn size), the more number of rows you’d need to reach the armhole.

The original pattern for this is at

This is a free pattern, but the write up is not in English. Here are my notes as I make this pattern.  Please refer to the original link for the pattern of the top.  Thank you.

Part 1 : Yoke

crochet girls sweater

1.       I started with fsc as per the chart given for necklines (at the top of this blog).
2.     See the number of stitches needed for the back/front and sides, and place markers accordingly for the corner stitch
3.     In the corner stitch for the first row, I have worked (3 dc; ch 1, 3 dc) all in that same st.
4.     In all following rows, I’ve worked the (to) in the ch-1 sp for the corners.
5.     I’ve decided to change colors every other row, and I’ve decided to use sc down the row (instead of dc), so in the corners, I’ve opted to work in a
(3 sc ; ch 1, 3 sc) in the corner ch-1 sp.
6.     I suggest you work the raglan yoke pattern till you reach the armhole or till you get the width needed for the chest (round measure), whichever is first.
7.     You will continue then without further increases for the pattern of the lower part of the sweater.

Part 2 : Body of the sweater

This is one pattern I’ve not been able to fathom.  There is no chart, and the photo tutorial eludes me.  I am not sure what that stitch is.. I figured that it’s worked in sc and we’re picking up 5 sts at a time – but try as I may, I am not getting the same look as this pink project. Ah well, time to create and get cracking.
I’ve decided to use the Star Stitch in my project, working over 5 sts.

Before we plunge into the stitch, I’d like to explain what a Star Stitch is. 
1.       The Star Stitch is always worked only on the front of your work.
2.     For this beautiful stitch, we pick up a set of 5 loops and then work through all of them.  “Pick up a loop” means that you will put your hook into the stitch indicated, yarn over and draw or pick up a loop. 
3.     You will have a set of 5 sts on your hook before you will yarn over and pass it through all the stitches, to make one start stitch. 
4.     There is an “eye” to this Star stitch.  The “eye” is the top point of the stitch, which serves as the 1st “stitch” for the next and all following stitches.
5.     For your 2nd and all following stitches, you will put your hk into the ‘eye’ of the last star stitch and draw a lp, then pick up a lp in the last st of the previous star stitch, and finally pick up lps in the next 2 sts.  You will then complete this star stitch by working a yarn over, and then passing through all the loops on your hk.

So that’s the Star stitch that we’re using here.  There’s another thing that we need to do as we start on the body of our sweater, and that’s to join the fronts and back across the armhole. I have joined the two parts in the 1st row of the body of the sweater.

Fold your work in half and (if needed mark the corners that will be joined) work the first row such that you join the back and front.

Our stitch count is multiples of 2.

Depending on how lacy or ‘holey’ you want your project, work an sc (less holes) or a hdc in the following row.

Row 1 : (Wrong side of work) : 2 hdc in the 1st st ; 
(sk next st ; 2 hdc in the next st) ;
rep (to) till the last 2 sts ;
sk next st, 2 hdc in the last st.  Turn.

In this row, we will work our Star Stitch
Row 2 : (Right side of work) :  
[yo, insert hk in the 1st st ; yo, insert hk in the next st ; 
yo and pass through the 5 lps on hk] ;
ch 1 (creates the “eye” of the Star St) ;
* {insert hk in the “eye” just made and draw a lp ; 
insert hk in the last lp of the previous Star st just made and draw a lp ; 
insert hk in the next 2 sts and draw up 2 lps ; yo and pass through the 5 lps on hk} ;
ch 1 (creates the “eye” of the Star St) * ;  
rep *to* till the end. Turn.

In the following row, we will work only in the “eyes” of the Star St.  
The last st that you’ve worked in the previous row was the ch 1, that forms the eye, and this will be the 1st eye you will work in.
Yet again, depending on how lacy or ‘holey’ you want your project, (or depending on what stitch you used in Row 1, work a sc or a hdc in the following row.

Row 3 : (Wrong side of work) : 2 hdc in the 1st “eye”  and in each “eye” till end. Turn.

And though this seems totally unbelievable, we’ve just finished one pattern repeat.  Please put your work down and admire the beauty you’ve created.

Rep Rows 2 & 3 till your pattern reaches the length needed.
If you are planning on working a button placket and/or a base border, please ensure to work the length accordingly to keep space to get that border in.

Part 3 : Sleeves

So initially, I used two colors for my yoke ..the idea being to carry that color combination down the arm.  The yoke has been done with just hdc all around, so for the sleeves too, I’d suggest you keep it with hdc all around.

And then I thought that I'd use the body pattern on the sleeves - and this is what I've eventually gone with.  So you now have two ideas for your sleeves.

To start pick up where you’ve left off at the armhole and work a round of hdc in each st all around.  Continue with hdc in each st all around for every round till you are about 1” from the sleeve length needed.  If you want a wider sleeve cuff, then you will work that many inches short for the sleeve – i.e if you need a sleeve length of 15” and are going to work in a 2” border, you will work in hdc till you have a sleeve length of 13” and then work this border in for the last 2”.

The other idea is to work the body Star Stitch pattern down the arm.  For this once again, I’d suggest we start with a round of hdc all around, and join with a sl-st at the end.  The Star Stitch must only be worked along the front / right side of work, which suits us perfectly as we will be working in rounds.  Remember that yet again, you will work the 2 hdc only in the eyes of the Star stitch, which will be simpler to “find” as you’re working on the right side of your work.

Border :

Round 1 :  sc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till the end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
For our border, we’ll be working with the Camel stitch.
The Camel stitch is a variation of the Single crochet back loop stitch.  The only difference is that you work the stitch in the loop after the back loop – which is called the ‘third loop’.

In case you find the Camel stitch too hard, may I suggest you work the sc in back loops only (sc-blo) and that will give a really lovely ribbed effect as well.

How to do the Camel stitch : The camel stitch is a lot like the back loop stitch, but you get a knitted finish on the top of your work.  Check out this video to see how to get this done.

Round 2 :  Camel stitch in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.

Rep Round 2 till you have the border / cuff length needed.
Before you fasten off, please check that your sleeve length is correct, and then fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat for the 2nd sleeve as well.

Part 4 : Front placket and border for sweater

I have decided to work one continuous border for my sweater, which will start at the front placket, go around the back of the neck, come back around the front of the sweater for the other placket, and then go around the bottom of the sweater to join back at where I started.

So there are ideas here :
1.        You could yet again try to work the Star Stitch as a front panel, and then work a smaller border wherein you can work the button holes ; OR
2.     You can work the Camel stitch all around.  The beauty of the Camel stitch can only be seen when worked on the front or right side of the garment, and it can therefore only be worked in a round.  This suits us perfectly when working it the way I’ve planned ; OR
3.     You can work both the Star Stitch and the Camel stitch as borders.

That said, yet again, if you decide to work the sc-blo, here’s your chance to be different and unique.

As we’ve just worked the Camel stitch around the sleeve cuff, you know what we need to do.

You will start with a round of sc all around from the front, around the back, down the other front and then around the lower part of your sweater.  Remember that at each corner, you will need to work in 2 or 3 sc in the same st to get a neat turn.  I say 2 or 3 as this depends on the thickness of your yarn – the thicker the yarn, the more bukly that turning will be, so 2 sts should suffice.  However, you will need to see what looks neat and flat and work it accordingly.

Your Round 1 will be the 1st round of Camel stitch all around and you will join with a sl-st at the last st.

I suggest that you work as many rounds here as you did for the cuff, just to get a uniform look.

If you are planning on this being a button-down sweater, you will need to add in a set of button holes along one side of your front placket.  For  adding a button hole all I’ve done is work 2 ch (or as many ch needed depending on the size of your button as well as the thickness of your yarn) and sk the next 2 sts.  Space your holes by working the Camel st in between 2 sets of skipped stitches (that will determine the distance between two buttons).

In the next round, you will work a Camel st or sc-blo in the ch-2 sp.  The difference in working the sc in this space is that usually one works the st directly into the space, but in this case, I’ll suggest that you work your stitch into the chains you’ve made and not into the ch-sp.

In the next round, you will work a Camel st in each st all around.

Rep the last round till you have a border / placket of the size needed.  Remember that it looks really neat if you have your button holes in the middle of the placket, so do decide the width you want before you start this exercise.

Part 5 : Make your own button

I should also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a little fabric.  I then sewed in the beads onto that little fabric top.  The base of the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?

For more information and photos, visit

Part 6 : Headband

crochet headband

crochet head band

crochet head band

The original pattern has this lovely flower-like pattern that is around the chest of the sweater.  I thought I’d rework that pattern as a headband, so here’s what I’ve come up with.
The stitch count is multiples of 4.

We will work the headband in one continuous round.  We will therefore start with a fsc chain, and then ensuring that there is no twist in the chain, join it to the start fsc to create a round.  This round will go around the head, so check that this is the right size needed for the child you are making this for.  Check the top of this blog for a ready chart on general head sizes.

If working in two colours, you could choose one colour for the hdc rounds and one for the floral portion.  As you could be working it all in one colour, I am not going to specify where you could change colours.  Go ahead and create.
Oh and as usual, there are options .. so do read through to the end before you decide on the pattern you want to use.

Finally, this floral pattern is worked in one continuous movement and it is a little bit complicated.  The link for the original pattern has a photo tutorial, which may help – so please take a look at that if needed.

Start with a fsc chain in multiples of 4 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 1 :  hdc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 :  hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round, depending on how loose (or low) you want your flowers to hang, you can choose to make a ch 3 or a ch 4 sp.  This also depends on how thick or thin a yarn you’re using.

Round 3 :  sc in the 1st hdc ; (ch 3, sk next 2 hdc, sc in the next hdc) ; rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following last round, we will form our petals for the flowers.
We will use our dc 2-tog and dc 3-tog in this round.  Check the top of this blog for a “how to”.

Before we work on the flower, let’s understand how we will work this continuous round for the flowers.
We will first work a dc 3-tog and then on the top of this dc 3-tog we will work the next set of stitches.  The top of this dc 3-tog therefore will become the centre of the flower. Each petal is made up of [ch 2, dc 2-tog , ch 2], which is worked as one set and we will sl-st onto the top of the dc 3-tog.  We will work 2 sets of [to] to make 3 petals, and the 4th petal will be a dc 3-tog.
Easy enough, right?

Round 3 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; dc 3-tog in the same ch-3 sp ;
*[ch 2, dc 2-tog , ch 2] and sl-st onto the top of the dc 3-tog (which will now form the centre of our flower) ;
rep [to] 2 times, and sl-st onto the top same dc 3-tog (which is the centre of the flower) ;
dc 3-tog in the same dc 3-tog and sc in the next ch-3 sp ;  ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc 3-tog in the same sc (which you’ve just made in the next ch-3 sp)* ; rep *to* all around till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

This completes the flowers on one side of our headband.

The pattern written here is as per the pattern I *think* is on the blog.  I have, however, decided to work a flower in each ch-3 sp.. so just working a dc 3-tog in the same ch-3 sp where you work your sc has worked for me.. and then ofcourse the [to] for the flower petals and this is what I’ve done.

I’ve decided to work the flowers on the other side as well.  For this, I’ve re-attached my yarn at the 1st st on the other side of the headband, and worked only Round 3 (the flowers round), along that end as well.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Ta da.. your absolutely stunning headband is ready.

And just to trouble you (?) and give you another idea.. you could work this as one flat piece for a belt as well.  Work the same pattern, just don’t join the two ends.. and maybe attach a satin ribbon at each end.. and voila! You have a beautiful belt to match your headband.

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