Monday, 7 November 2016

A CUTE SLEEVED SLEEP SACK

crochet sleep sack

A CUTE SLEEVED SLEEP SACK

This is my first such creation and I just love the challenge it presents.  I’ve been given a photograph of a sleep-sack (or a sleeved onesie?) that has been stitched and I am going to try and re-create this in crochet.  I am not sure if there are any such patterns out there already – but this is what I’ve come up with.  Thanks for joining me on this new adventure as well.

So this was the idea that started me on this journey.


Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 280 - 300 gms of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook ; buttons ; embroidery needle to sew

Size made : For a 13-month old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level ; minimum sewing skills to join ends.

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ .  In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to do a picot stitch :A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

How to join sides with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join sides with whip stich : Check the links below :

How to carry your yarn along when using more than one colour http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-carry-yarn-in-crochet.html


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                           ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                  sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                           hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                   yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                         sc : Single crochet
fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

crochet sleep sack


So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.

I am going to start our sleepy sack from the feet and then work towards the shoulder, neck and sleeves. 
So you’ll need to know
a)   full length from shoulder to ankle ;
b)   chest measure ;
c)     full sleeves measure.  I am going to work in a straight line from armhole to sleeve – firstly to avoid joins and weave in (and if you are following my blog, you’ll know that I always try to get the easiest way in – as I am profoundly lazy!) and also as I do think that a sleep sack needs ease under arm to allow free movement ; and
d)   Round ankle measurement.
e)    Round wrist measurement.

You can choose whichever stitch suits you (and your yarn) best and this will make no difference to the ‘pattern’ – so go ahead and use sc / hdc / dc.  For convenience though, I’ll write the pattern in dc.

To get a small pattern and minor tightening around the wrist and ankles, I suggest you use post stitches here.  However, it is not required and regular dc all around will work just as well.

I also plan on working my sleep sack without a side seam.  So this is how I plan on doing that.  I will start with the foot and work in a round for the first few rounds, and then work in rows from side to side.  The opening for the foot will be along the crotch.
Once we finish one foot, we will fasten off and start on the second foot, mirroring whatever we’ve done for Foot #1. 



We will then work in one row from side to side, from the front centre placket of the sleep sack, all around the back to the other side and back to the front centre placket from the other side.
I hope the rough diagram here gives you the visual image.



My client said the baby loves stars and so I am planning on throwing a few appliques of these in – but do check out other appliques / ideas on my Pinterest boards https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/granny-squares-to-make/

Right.. hooks on.. let’s go.




Start for your first foot : with as many fdc as required for the round ankle measure of your child.  Turn.
Note : 1. You need to decide here if you’re keeping this lower foot part open, so you can add in buttons OR you’re going to work in rounds. If working in rounds, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  IF working in rows, Turn at the end.
2. You need to decide if you’re working regular dc or post stitches around this first start fdc row. 

Note : If working post stitches, work fpdc in each fdc till end.
Row 1 : dc in the 1st fdc and in each fdc till end.  Turn.

Note : If working post stitches and in rows, work bpdc in each fpdc till end.
If working post stitches and in rounds, work fpdc in each fpdc till end.

Row 2 - 5 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  Turn.
Note : You need to decide here how long you’re going to make the legs – i.e how deep would you like the crotch of the sleepy sack. 

At this point, I decided to increase a little.  We have not started with multiples and therefore it could be that you end without an exact count.  I think it does not matter as we’re just increasing to give it the looseness required – so if you do not end with 2 dc at the end, do not worry. 



Row 6 : (Increase row) : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  Turn.

Row 8 - 11 : Rep Rows 6 & 7 two times.

Row 12 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  Turn.

Rep Row 12 till you reach the crotch.  Remember that for comfort and movement, drop the crotch of the sleep sack a few inches.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat all instructions from start to the point you’ve ended here for the 2nd foot, mirroring all that you have done for the 1st foot.

Before you fasten off 2nd foot ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the end of the 1st foot.

Now that both our ‘feet’ are joined.. we will work in rows from one end to the other, in such a way that we will leave a front placket opening.

The 3-ch that we’ve just made will be the crotch piece between both legs. 
We will be working on both sides of this chain and joining the two legs at the same time.
One side of this will be the front placket, and the other side of the chain will be used to finish the back of our sleep sack (the butt portion ;) )
Before you move on, check the width from one end to the other – and see if this is a good hip measure for your sleep sack. If not, adjust the number of chain accordingly.

We are now at one end of one foot.  So we will dc in the chains we’ve just made, then work around the foot, and then work dc along the other end of the chain and then work the 2nd foot all the way around to the 1st st.  At that point, we will turn around and work back on all the dc we’ve worked so far all the way to the armholes.

Next Row : dc in the 1st 3 ch ; dc in the next dc and then in each dc around the 1st leg ; dc around the back of the 3 chain and then dc in each dc all around the 2nd leg till end.  Turn.

Next Row : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc around till end.  Turn.
Work in each dc all around till you reach the armhole level.

Note : After you’ve worked a few inches please check if you are happy with the width or you want it less wide.
If you’re ok with the width, then you will continue without change till the armhole level.
If you want a reduction, then I’d suggest you work a few dc 2-tog to reduce a few stitches till you get the shape you are happy with. Once you have the shape you need, continue without change till the armhole level.

Our sleep sack has a straight line armhole – so this will add a few inches to the final sleeve length. 

Neck shaping : For the neck there are several ideas – you can make it a square, round, or “V”- shape. I’d suggest you keep the back high, so you only need to make these changes for the front of the sleepsack.



Sleeves :
Our sleeves are two rectangles – of the width and length of the sleeve. 

crochet sleep sack


Start with as many fdc as needed either for the length or width of your sleeve. 
If you are working along the length, then work as many rows as needed for the width of the sleeve.

If you’re working along the width or round arm measure, then you will work as many rows as needed for the length from armhole to wrist.
Remember as I said before that the straight lined body adds a few inches for the sleeve.

Tweak : If you decide to do a few rows of post stitches around the wrist , then you will need to work a shorter rectangle for the sleeve.  You will then attach the sleeve to the armhole and finish by working a few rounds of fpdc (post stiches) around the wrist.

Yes, a lot of work.. a lot of calculation.. and no specific measurements here.. but see what you’ve made.. you’ve designed an individual exclusive piece.. Aren’t you chuffed and really proud?  I am J
Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila !


Motifs

crochet sleep sack

The little kid that I’m making this for is presently fascinated with the moon and stars, so that’s what he gets on his sleepy sack.

Star & Crescent Motif 1 :

crochet motif

crochet motif

For a little star & crescent motifs check out this link
Crochet pattern design by Zaaynab-Le' Von of EYESEYEcreations at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/crochet-crescent-moon--star 



I also found a neat chart for a star and here are the instructions for that one.

Star Motif 2 :

crochet motif



Start with a magic circle and 10 sc in that circle. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. (10 sc)
Pull lightly to close

Round 1 : 2 sc in the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.  (20 sc).

In this final round, we’ll make five spokes for our star.  For each spoke, we will start with a row of chain, Turn and work our spoke in varying stitch length along the same row of chain just made.  Simple? Let’s do it.

Round 2 : ch 8 from the 1st sc , TURN and work along the chain just made ;
*Sc in the 3rd ch fm hk ; hdc in the next ch ; dc in the next 2 ch ; trc in the next ch ;  sk next ch and the next 3 sc , sc in the next sc (of Round 1) ; ch 8* ;
rep *to* all around ending with a trc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Leave a tail to join this motif to your work.

Moon Motif  :

There are cute motifs for the moon at http://www.crochetgeek.com/2008/07/blog-post_18.html




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