A MINNIE MOUSE INSPIRED COCOON
I have seen
Mickey Mouse inspired cocoons on the internet, but have not come across a
Minnie Mouse version. I’m not sure if
there is one, but here’s what I’ve done in my creation.
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This yarn is not specific for this project.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Skill level :
Intermediate.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :
Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete. Visit this video tutorial at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whlsMemDHLc
Half double crochet 2-tog : hdc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp] (3 lps on hk) ; insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all 4 lps on hk. One hdc 2-tog made.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
Abbreviations used : Using U.S Terminology
dc : Double crochet sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s) yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip sc : Single crochet
ch : Chain
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Part 1 : The cocoon
For our cocoon, we’ll start with pink yarn
(which is M.Mouse’s skirt) and then change to black yarn (for her socks) and
finally end with pink yarn (for a bow).
On top of the skirt, you can add on some circular motifs (for the polka
dots).
You can make this pattern for any size from a baby to a full grown young lady. All you’ll need to do is increase the number
of rounds you work for each colour and you’ll have it done.
We are starting at the top of our cocoon and working our way up to the bottom.
So if you are working this for a taller /older girl, you will just need to decide when to change
colours (and obviously much after I’ve said we should) – thus adjusting the length.
For the width (if making for a taller / older child), you will, obviously, continue working increase rounds for a lot
longer, till you get the width required.
Yes, I hear you.. how do you figure out how long
or how wide?
Well, that totally depends
on you and the child.
If you have the
child handy, have her lie down on a newspaper, and cut a largish half oval
around her, starting at her chest, going all the way around her from under her
feet to the other side of her chest.
Ensure that you keep “squiggle space”.
Keep this handy map when you’re working and check against it every once
in a while. It will also be smart to
approximately draw a marked line for where you want your socks / shoes, to save
you time when you are actually working on the project, but you figured that out
yourself as well, I’m sure!
For this project, you can choose your stitch of
choice.. Use either sc / hdc or dc depending on how thick a yarn you’re using
and how dense a finished project you desire.
Remember that using dc means that you are increasing the ‘gaps’ and ‘holes’
between stitches.
Finally, I have used a Baby Soft 3-ply baby yarn
for the first part and it is way thinner than the slightly darker pink Caron
Simply Soft yarn, so I used the video link I’d recently seen online on how to
make thin yarn bulky instantly (Link given at the top of this blog) and I am
*thrilled* to say that it not only works beautifully, but is so darn easy – one
thing new learned in this project, so yaay!
I am opting to use hdc, and will write my
pattern instructions that way.
Let’s hook away…
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Start Row 1 (Using pink yarn) : with
a fdc sufficient to go easily around the chest of the child you are making this
for. Turn.
So what I am going to do is work in rows for the
first few rows, keeping one side open, and then I will join up and work in
rounds. This is to ease a baby in.
However, you can opt to work in rounds from this
round itself, and if you do so, please join with a sl-st to the 1st
st, and then work in rounds all through, joining at the end of each round.
As you are starting with a fdc chain, it’s
important to keep it flat when you join.
Check out this video on how to keep your chain flat
without twisting when working with a longer chain length
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at
https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Round 2 : (Increase
round ) :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : (Increase
round ) :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : (Increase
round ) :
2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next 2 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc*
;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Rounds 5 - 7 : (Increase
round ) :
Rep Round 4, increasing 12 sts every round.
We’ve completed the little shoes, and we’ll now
change to white (or off white) yarn for the socks. Fasten off black yarn.
Rounds 8 : (Increase
round ) :
Rep Round 4, increasing 12 sts every round.
Round 9 : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc
around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
hdc.
Rounds 10 - 11 :
Rep Rounds 8 & 9.
We will now continue without any further
increase. Rep Round 9 without any further increase, but before you go ahead,
please read the notes below.
And here’s where we get a chance to show off our
creativity.
Once I’d reached the end of the skirt length,
I’ve decided to work in a small frill all around the base of the skirt as well
as along the side of the opening. The
side opening will hold the buttons, so the frill will neatly hide that bit up
along with looking cute, methinks.
For the bottom bit of the skirt frill, we will
work in front loops only. We will
then use the free back loops to attach the black yarn (for socks) and
work the lower part of our cocoon. For
the sides of the skirt (side opening I mean), you can use either just the front
loops or both loops.
Finally, when working along the vertical bars,
remember that each dc vertical bar is equal to 2 sc/sts. There is no stitch count for our frill
pattern here, so as long as you get the first round of ch-sps evenly
worked out, it doesn’t matter.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at
https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Frill Round 1 :
sc in the 1st st ;
*ch 2, sk next st, sc in the next st* ;
rep *to*
all the way till the corner st ;
(ch 2, sc in the same st) in the corner
st ;
rep *to* all the way till the end.
Remember that when
working along the vertical bar of the dc, you will work ch 2, and then sc in
the space between 2 dc.
Frill Round 2 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-sp ;
(ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, sl-st in the same
ch-sp ; sl in the next ch-sp) all in the 1st ch sp and in each
ch-sps all around.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Now here’s a quick tweak.
I’m using a pretty thick yarn and this border
works for me, but if you are using a thinner one and want a frillier frill,
then work 3 dc in that sp OR (ch 3, 1 dc, 1 trc, 1 dc, ch 3, sc) all in the
same ch-sp and see how your frill goes nice a frillier. Have fun creating.
Right then.. we’ve completed the skirt portion,
and we’re now going to work in rounds for the lower part of our cocoon.
So first put your two skirt portions together
and we will join them up when we are working the first round with the black
yarn.
Attach your black yarn at one end of the skirt
and work in rounds from here on.
So there are two ways in which we can start this
portion. I tried both, and they both
work. It’s just that each way shows the
black yarn (at the end of the pink) in a different way – so check which works
for you.
Socks Round 1 :
Turn
your work around such that you have the wrong side facing you.
Sc in the 1st st and in each st
all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
You will be working in the free
loops of this last round of the skirt , having used the other loop for the
frill.
I have done a second way to attach as well.
Socks Round 1 Alternate :
Front post single crochet : fpsc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch on the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fpsc at
https://youtu.be/OQa8YLpkdXs
Turn
your work around such that you have the wrong side facing you.
Front Post Single Crochet in the 1st
st and in each st all around.
Join with
a sl-st to the 1st st.
For the next round on , you will work one st in
each st all around using the black yarn till you have the length needed for the
cocoon.
Here is a second tweak idea.
If you want the bottom portion a little
rounded and tighter, then you could work your decrease stitches in the form of
a sc 2-tog / hdc 2-tog or a dc 2-tog (depending on which stitch you have used
to work thus far). This will just give
the bottom portion a small curve, and if you decide to do this, I’d suggest
that you work in a gradual decrease every alternate round.
When you reach the length needed for your cocoon, fasten off and leave a tail.
Finishing :
To
close the bottom of your cocoon, work a running stitch (which is just passing
your yarn with the embroidery needle in and out of your work in regular
distance loosely) all around the last round.
Pull lightly to close.
Work a few
more rounds of stitches through this last pulled round to get it tighter and
neatly closed.
I usually like to work a
round of sc stitches, for a
neat finish.
Start : (using
pink yarn) : with 25 fsc. Turn.
Note : The start
number of fsc does not matter. Just
ensure that the length you start with goes from one side to the other of the base
of your cocoon OR as long as you want your bow to be (side to side /
lengthwise)
Row 1 : hdc in the
1st fsc and in each fsc till end.
Turn.
Once again, this is just a rough estimate for
you and you can decide how wide you want your bow, and work accordingly.
Rows 2 - 9 : hdc
in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till end. Turn.
When you are happy with the width of your bow,
fasten off and leave a long tail.
Finishing : Sl-st
in the 1st 12 sts (or work with an embroidery needle and work a
running stitch all the way to the centre of the bow). Now holding the right side facing you, wrap
the yarn several times around the centre of the bow, cinching it neatly. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Attach this bow to the centre bottom of your
cocoon and you’re almost done with this superb creation.
Part 3 : The polka dots
The final embellishment I’ve added to my cocoon
are white polka dots. Now you can well
finish off without this too, but having worked so far, heck, let’s get this
done too.
Start : with
a magic circle and 12 dc in that circle.
Fasten off and leave a long tail to attach.
Finishing : Using
an embroidery needle, attach the polka dots all over the pink “dress” portion
of your cocoon.
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Here are some of my older blanket / granny square and motif creations.
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