Sweet Nothings Crochet: VIBRANT SLEEVED SNUGGLE BLANKET

VIBRANT SLEEVED SNUGGLE BLANKET

A few days back I reconnected with an old classmate .. after years. Not only was that absolutely fun, but she’d also found me via my Facebook page and blogs (which was more fun) and the funnest of the lot was that she wanted to order something different. She said she wanted something to snuggle in when she did her couch-potato routine at the end of the day, and I thought about this sleeved snuggle blanket – and both of us just loved it

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Materials used : Today I’ve used (about 100 gms each color of) our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn, with a 4 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue.

This yarn is not specific for this project.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal ; Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Skill level : Intermediate.

Sizing chart for blankets : https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279839582572/

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Abbreviations used : Using U.S Terminology

dc : Double crochet sp(s) : Space(s)

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

lp : Loop(s) yo : Yarn Over

sk : Skip sc : Single crochet

ch : Chain

Instructions using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

I found this free pattern at https://www.redheart.com/files/patterns/pdf/J27.0022_2nd%20ed.pdf

My notes are only because the yarn I’m using does not match up in gauge to Red heart used – so this is mainly for us, Indians, who need to use different yarns.

As I was working on my own project, I also found a small discrepancy (? or did I read it wrong?) in the pattern instructions and also though that it could do with a little further explanation.

I've also decided not to work a 'shaped' pattern and work a simpler rectangle pattern and add sleeves.

The pattern sheet has instructions for two sizes but there is only a start chain number.

I am going to translate that into multiples so that we can then use this pattern for any size. Cool?

That said, please do head over to the pattern sheet as there are several patterns on that link that you can choose from.

This is a straight and simple pattern worked side to side.

As my client wanted VIBGYOR as her color range, I decided to start with purples and finish off one skein/hank at a time before adding the next.
I’ve done this for several reasons – first and foremost, I’m darn lazy and would rather not fasten off and tie up ends, if I can help it – and also I *think* (in my mind’s eye) that the gradual shades of colour is going to look fabulous.

So fingers crossed..

oh oh.. can’t really have fingers crossed and hooks on as well, now can we?

Hee hee.. Marchin on..

The pattern starts with a row of chain, and if you’ve been following my blog, you know I much prefer the foundation stitch start.. so I opt to start with the foundation double crochet (fdc) instead.

Now if you’re happy with the chain start, please head off to the pattern sheet now. (Link given above)

Note 1 : If you are making this for the first time, may I suggest you go with the sizing given in the pattern sheet.

After leading you through few rows (while we change the start of our blanket with the fdc etc), we will be going back to the free pattern link – and then the only difference will be in the number of repeats.

Note 2 : Row 3 per the written instruction sheet is an increase row.

So this means that you will start with less stitches, and then increase every odd row from Rows 3 – 12.

If you want this shape (look at the diagram on the pattern chart in the instructions), then may I suggest that you just follow the pattern sheet – as it’s going to be quite complicated explaining all the increase changes.

I have decided not to increase and will be starting with as many stitches as I want for the width and will be working a plain rectangular piece.

In my idea, I'm going to work a large rectangular blanket and then cut out armholes at the top. To 'cut out armholes', I will just not work in a few stitches, as you guessed.

I'll then add on a pair of sleeves in these cut out spaces.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start with fdc in multiples of 3 for the width needed for your snuggle blanket.

Width is about 2.25 times the round chest / waist / hip as this is going to go around the body. Please do check the instruction sheet for ideas too.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fdc ;

*sk next 2 fdc , 3 dc in the next fdc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

I’m not sure if I am right, but it looks like Row 2 is missing in the pattern sheet and I think that this is a row of all dc. Not sure, but this is what I’ve done.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc till end. Turn.

Yet again, I am not sure if I am right, but I think that there should be a ch-2 and not ch-1 between decreases in the following row.

Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Row 3 : dc 3-tog over the in the 1^st 3 dc ;

*ch 2, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* till last 3 sts ;

ch 2, sk next 2 sts, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Change colors at any time, and attach new colors as you go.

How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

How to carry your yarn when using two colors : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to carry your yarn along when working with two colours.

View it at https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*sk ch-2 sp ; 3 dc on the next dc 3-tog* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Our pattern repeat will be Rows 2 – 4.

So how far do you continue with your repeats?

Take a quick look at the diagram on the original pattern sheet.

It gives an estimate of sizing in inches. So work out your gauge, and you can then figure out how many repeats you’d need to get the sizing needed to get the armholes worked in.

Armhole divide ideas :

For the armhole, I’ve used the template and ideas off the pattern sheet, but yet again, I really couldn’t follow it as our gauges are different.

So basically what I did was figure out what was the chest size I needed, and then calculated slightly over half round chest measure. Let's say chest size is 34" (half = 17"). As we want this to be loose and comfy, I'd say you work on a half round chest size of say 20-22". So fold your work in half, to find the centre and place markers 10 - 11" on either side of that centre line. These will be your armhole divide lines. Got it?

1. Fold the snuggle in half and place markers on either side, which will be just over half the round chest measure.

2. Work in pattern from one end till the marker and back to the side. We will work one side of the snuggle first.

3. Re-attach your yarn and work the other side of your snuggle from marker to the other side.

4. We will finally re-attach yarn and work the centre of the snuggle from one armhole opening to the other.

5. You will work this armhole opening for slightly over the half the round armhole measure.

6. Once you have got this done, you will work in full rows from one end of the snuggle to the other as we have before the armhole opening division. This bit that you work on (side to side) will be the collar / cowl of the snuggle and you can make this as long or short as you wish. So this will then neatly make up your shoulders as well.

Sleeve ideas :

For the sleeves, I’ve re-attached the yarn at the bottom (of round arm – or bottom of armhole) and then worked in rounds around the armhole opening in the same pattern as for the body.

For the 1^st round, it will probably be best if you run a round of sc (or dc) in multiples of 3 and then work a round of dc (if you’ve started with a round of sc).

I then worked the pattern as we did for the body of our snuggle.

Options :

You can decide to work in the round all the way to the cuff (wrist) OR you can work till just before the wrist and then work a few rows of fpdc / post stitches that will not only add a little pattern difference to the cuff but will also tighten it a bit.

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Of course, you can also decide to do a quick decrease in the round just before starting on the fpdc, so that we get it nice and fitted around the wrist.

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https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/02/b-is-for-crochet-motif.html