Sunday, 2 October 2016

VIBRANT SLEEVED SNUGGLE BLANKET

free crochet sleeved blanket free crochet sleeved blanket


VIBRANT SLEEVED SNUGGLE BLANKET


A few days back I reconnected with an old classmate .. after years.  Not only was that absolutely fun, but she’d also *found* me via my Facebook page and blogs (which was more fun) and the *funnest* of the lot was that she wanted to order something different.  She said she wanted something to snuggle in when she did her couch-potato routine at the end of the day, and I thought about this sleeved snuggle blanket – and both of us just loved it 



My notes are only because the yarn I’m using does not match up in gauge to Red heart used – so this is mainly for us, Indians, who have different yarns.  As I was working on my own project, I also found a small discrepancy in the pattern instructions and also though that it could do with a little further explanation.

That said, please do head over to the pattern sheet as there are several patterns on that link that you can choose from.

Materials used : Today I’ve used (about 100 gms each color of) our lovely Indian Oswal 4-ply acrylic yarn,  with a 4 mm crochet hook

Skill level : Intermediate.  

Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 4 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 4-tog made.

How to carry your yarn along when using more than one colour :  http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-carry-yarn-in-crochet.html



Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                 sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                    ch : Chain
sp : Space                                                         sl-st : Slip stitch
hk : Hook                                                          yo : Yarn Over 
st(s) : Stitch(es)     
                   

This is a straight and simple pattern worked side to side.  So my client wanted VIBGYOR as her color range – so I decided to start with purples and finish off one skein/hank at a time before adding the next.
I’ve done this for several reasons – first and foremost, I’m darn lazy and would rather not fasten off and tie up ends, if I can help it – and also I *think* (in my mind’s eye) that the gradual shades of colour is going to look fabulous.
So fingers crossed..

oh oh.. can’t really have fingers crossed and hooks on as well, now can we? 
Hee hee.. Marchin on..

The pattern starts with a row of chain, and if you’ve been following my blog, you know I much prefer the foundation stitch start.. so I opt to start with the foundation double crochet (fdc) instead.  
Now if you’re happy with the chain start, please head off to the pattern sheet now. (Link given above)

The pattern is given for two sizes but there is only a start chain number.  
I am going to translate that into multiples so that we can then use this pattern for any size. Cool?

Note : If you are making this for the first time, may I suggest you go with the sizing given in the pattern sheet.  After leading you through few rows (while we change the start of our blanket with the fdc etc), we will be going back to the free pattern link – and then the only difference will be in the number of repeats.

free crochet sleeved blanket

  
Start with fdc in multiples of 3 for the width needed for your snuggle blanket.
Note : Row 3 per the written instruction sheet is an increase row.  So this means that you will start with less stitches, and then increase every odd row from Rows 3 – 12.  If you want this shape (look at the diagram on the pattern chart), then may I suggest that you just follow the pattern sheet – as it’s going to be quite complicated explaining all the increase changes.
I have decided not to increase and will be starting with as many stitches as I want for the width and will be working a plain rectangular end.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fdc ;
*sk next 2 fdc , 3 dc in the next fdc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

I’m not sure if I am right, but it *looks* like Row 2 is missing in the pattern sheet and I *think* that this is a row of all dc.  Not sure, but this is what I’ve done.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  Turn.

Yet again, I am not sure if I am right, but I think that there should be a ch-2 and not ch-1 between decreases in the following row.

Row 3 : dc 3-tog over the in the 1st 3 dc ;
*ch 2, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* till last 3 sts ; ch 2, sk next 2 sts, dc in the last dc.  Turn.



If changing colors, attach new color yarn now.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*sk ch-2 sp ; 3 dc on the next dc 3-tog* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Our pattern repeat will be Rows 2 – 4.



So how far do you continue with your repeats?  Take a quick look at the diagram on the pattern sheet.  It gives an estimate of sizing in inches.  So work out your gauge, and you can then figure out how many repeats you’d need to get the sizing needed to get the armholes worked in.








Armhole divide ideas :
For the armhole, I’ve used the template and ideas off the pattern sheet, but yet again, I really couldn’t follow it as our gauges are different.  So basically what I did was figure out what was the chest size I needed, and then calculated slightly over half  round chest measure.






1.       Fold the snuggle in half and place markers on either side, which will be just over half the round chest measure.
2.     Work in pattern from one end till the marker and back to the side.  We will work one side of the snuggle first.
3.     Re-attach your yarn and work the other side of your snuggle from marker to the other side.
4.     We will finally re-attach yarn and work the centre of the snuggle from one armhole opening to the other.
5.     You will work this armhole opening for slightly over the half the round armhole measure.
6.     Once you have got this done, you will work in full rows from one end of the snuggle to the other as we have before the armhole opening division. This bit that you work on (side to side) will be the collar / cowl of the snuggle and you can make this as long or short as you wish.  So this will then neatly make up your shoulders as well.


Sleeve ideas :


free crochet sleeved blanket

free crochet sleeved blanket

For the sleeves, I’ve re-attached the yarn at the bottom (of round arm – or bottom of armhole) and then worked in rounds around the armhole opening in the same pattern as for the body.  For the 1st round, it will probably be best if you run a round of sc (or dc) in multiples of 3 and then work a round of dc (if you’ve started with a round of sc).  I then worked the pattern as we did for the body of our snuggle.

Options :



You can decide to work in the round all the way to the cuff (wrist) OR you can work till just before the wrist and then work a few rows of fdc / post stitches that will not only add a little pattern difference to the cuff but will also tighten it a bit.  Of course, you can also decide to do a quick decrease in the round just before starting on the fdc, so that we get it nice and fitted around the wrist.

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