Wednesday, 27 June 2018

STRAPPY BEACH LADIES TOP - 2


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STRAPPY BEACH LADIES TOP - 2


While I was working on my 1st strappy beach ladies top, I thought that just working this chart for the yoke bit, would be a great idea too.  J

Here are my pattern notes as I work on my original project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 3.5 skeins of the superb Sullivan’s knitting cotton yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton and White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians : This pattern will work with  Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons as well. 

Size : M/L : 34” – 36”
Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level. 

Stitches used :
Magic circle :To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/.  In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

sc : Single crochet                                     ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                              sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                          hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                  yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                               
trc : Treble / Triple crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

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This lovely beach top starts from the centre front and is worked in rounds till about the armhole.  We then work side to side for the length of the top.  
This is a top down construction.

As we start centre front and work in circular rows, you must put your work down each row and ensure that it stays flat and does not buckle. 

I have done a similar pattern using ideas from this chart as well as being inspired by a photograph in an earlier strappy beach top – so do check both out before you decide which one is *yours* J

Before I start off with Round 1, a tweak / idea.

We will not be working/using all stitches from Round 1. 
After I worked 15 sc and reached too far (well, for me anyway) to rip out, I got this idea – so here goes.

So Row 2 uses only 9 out of all the stitches that you work in the 1st round.  Depending on how wide a “V” you’d like for your top, increase the number of stitches.  We will leave part of the stitches unworked, and those stitches will form the centre of your “V”-neckline.

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 15 sc in that circle. Pull lightly to close, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

From now on, we will work in rows. 
We will not be using all the sc that we’ve just worked into the magic circle.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 1, 2 dc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) in the next 7 sc ;
dc in the next sc.  Turn.  Leave rest of the sc unworked.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) in the next 16 dc ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) in the next 16 sc ;
ch 2, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) till end ;
dc in the last dc.  Turn.

We will be working a “V”-st from here on, which will be (2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc ; sk next 3 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
*sk next 3 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the last 3 dc ;
sk the next 2 dc, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

From now on, unless otherwise indicated, we will work all our “V”-sts in the ch-3 sp of the earlier “V”-st.

Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ; ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 8 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ; ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Now I have worked a ch-3 sp for both Rows 9 & 10. 
If you want your yoke to open out a bit more, work ch-4 sps in Row 10.
Rows 9 & 10 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ;
ch 3, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 11 : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 3, sc in the next “V”-st ;
*ch 7, sc in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the last “V”-st ;
ch 3, sc in the last sc.  Turn.

Row 12 : sc in the 1st sc ; 3 sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next sc ;
*9 sc in the next ch-7 sp ; sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the last ch-3 sp ;
3 sc in the last ch-3 sp, sc in the last sc.  Turn.

Row 13 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sk next 2 sc, 2 dc in the next sc ;
*ch 3, sk next 4 sc, 2 dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the last 2 sc ;
ch 2, sk next 2 sc, dc in the last sc..  Turn.

Row 14 : dc in the 1st dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
dc in the next 2 dc ;  5 dc in the next ch-3 sp
*sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ;
3 dc in the last ch-2 sp ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 15 : dc in the 1st dc  ;
[ch 2, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ;
*ch 3, sk next 5 dc, 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the last 4 dc ;
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

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We have done one pattern repeat, which will be Rows 14 & 15.

Now this is when we start our creativity and fun process. 
Place your yoke on top of a top that fits you well – and see how wide across chest have you reached with your project. 

If you find that you have spanned the chest pretty well, and have also reached pretty high across the shoulders – (and will only need a short strap to fit the front and back together), stop increases, and start working on the body of the top.

In case you need a little more to span across the chest, work rep of Rows 14 & 15.

Once you have got the width of the chest done (checking it against a well-fitting top as I always say), mark the “V”-st (from Row 15) that marks the armhole.  Place a marker for both sides of the top.
You will now continue rep of Rows 14 & 15 till you have the length needed for your top.

Fasten off and weave in ends. 
Rep all instructions for the 2nd side of the top as well.

Once we have done front and back, we will work on the border for both the front and back continuously.

So let’s go off and complete the two halves and meet here shortly.

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