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Over the years, I've found that there are a lot of free charts available on the net, so as I make the project off that chart, I write down my notes and share them here on my blog. Hope you enjoy it, and thanks for stopping by.
Wednesday, 27 June 2018
STRAPPY BEACH LADIES TOP - 2
BEACH LADIES TOP - 2
I was working on my 1st strappy beach ladies top, I thought that
just working this chart for the yoke bit, would be a great idea too.J
Here are my
pattern notes as I work on my original project.
Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 3.5 skeins of the
superb Sullivan’s knitting cotton yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook
Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton and White rose knitting cotton yarns
are a good substitute.I’d also suggest
Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the
top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)
This pattern will work withMilford
Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo
Viscose 10 knitting cottons as well.
: M/L : 34” – 36”
Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.
Chainless dc start : Instead of
the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new
way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/.In case you are unhappy with this start, do
continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this
chainless dc start.
How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :
lovely beach top starts from the centre front and is worked in rounds till
about the armhole.We then work side to
side for the length of the top.
is a top down construction.
we start centre front and work in circular rows, you must put your work
down each row and ensure that it stays flat and does not buckle.
have done a similar pattern using ideas from this chart as well as being
inspired by a photograph in an earlier strappy beach top – so do check both out
before you decide which one is *yours* J
I start off with Round 1, a tweak / idea.
will not be working/using all stitches from Round 1.
I worked 15 sc and reached too far (well, for me anyway) to rip out, I got this
idea – so here goes.
Row 2 uses only 9 out of all the stitches that you work in the 1st
round.Depending on how wide a “V” you’d
like for your top, increase the number of stitches.We will leave part of the stitches unworked,
and those stitches will form the centre of your “V”-neckline.
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 15 sc in that circle.
Pull lightly to close, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
now on, we will work in rows.
will not be using all the sc that we’ve just worked into the magic circle.
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st sc ;
1, 2 dc in the next sc) ;
(to) in the next 7 sc ;
in the next sc.Turn.Leave rest of the sc unworked.
Row 3 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
1, 2 dc in the next dc) ;
(to) in the next 16 dc ;
1, dc in the last dc.Turn.
Row 4 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
2, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
(to) in the next 16 sc ;
2, dc in the last dc.Turn.
Row 5 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc) ;
(to) till end ;
in the last dc.Turn.
We will be working a “V”-st from here on, which will be
(2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Row 6 : dc
in the 1st dc ; sk next 3 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
next 3 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
*to* till the last 3 dc ;
the next 2 dc, dc in the last dc.Turn.
now on, unless otherwise indicated, we will work all our “V”-sts in the ch-3 sp
of the earlier “V”-st.
Row 7 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
*to* till the last dc ; ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 8 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
*to* till the last dc ; ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn.
I have worked a ch-3 sp for both Rows 9 & 10.
you want your yoke to open out a bit more, work ch-4 sps in Row 10.
Rows 9 & 10 : dc in the 1st dc ;
3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
*to* till the last dc ;
3, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 11 : sc
in the 1st dc ; ch 3, sc in the next “V”-st ;
7, sc in the next “V”-st* ;
*to* till the last “V”-st ;
3, sc in the last sc.Turn.
Row 12 : sc
in the 1st sc ; 3 sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next sc ;
sc in the next ch-7 sp ; sc in the next sc* ;
*to* till the last ch-3 sp ;
sc in the last ch-3 sp, sc in the last sc.Turn.
Row 13 : dc
in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sk next 2 sc, 2 dc in the next sc ;
3, sk next 4 sc, 2 dc in the next sc* ;
*to* till the last 2 sc ;
2, sk next 2 sc, dc in the last sc..Turn.
Row 14 : dc
in the 1st dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
in the next 2 dc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3
next dc, dc in the next dc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
*to* till the last ch-2 sp ;
dc in the last ch-2 sp ; dc in the last dc.Turn.
Row 15 : dc
in the 1st dc;
2, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next dc ; ch 1, dc in the same dc] ;
3, sk next 5 dc, 2 dc in the next dc* ;
*to* till the last 4 dc ;
2, sk next 3 dc, dc in the last dc.Turn.
have done one pattern repeat, which will be Rows 14 & 15.
this is when we start our creativity and fun process.
your yoke on top of a top that fits you well – and see how wide across chest
have you reached with your project.
you find that you have spanned the chest pretty well, and have also reached
pretty high across the shoulders – (and will only need a short strap to fit the
front and back together), stop increases, and start working on the body of the
In case you need a little more to span across the chest, work rep of Rows 14
you have got the width of the chest done (checking it against a well-fitting
top as I always say), mark the “V”-st (from Row 15) that marks the
armhole.Place a marker for both sides
of the top.
will now continue rep of Rows 14 & 15 till you have the length needed for
off and weave in ends.
all instructions for the 2nd side of the top as well.
we have done front and back, we will work on the border for both the front and
let’s go off and complete the two halves and meet here shortly.
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