EASY “A”-LINED TOP
Crochet beach cover up
This is a pretty easy top with a simple
“A”-lined finish. I just made this up as
I went along, with no specific pattern in mind – and I totally love how this
has turned out, don’t you?
This is my original pattern and idea. I'd appreciate if you could share my post but do not post my photographs as your own. You may use my photographs, but they must link back to this blog. Thank you.
This is my original pattern and idea. I'd appreciate if you could share my post but do not post my photographs as your own. You may use my photographs, but they must link back to this blog. Thank you.
If you make this in cotton, it would make a really good crochet beach cover up or a gym top too.
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Materials used : Today I’ve
used ~ 1 skein of the lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 3-ply acrylic yarn with a 3 mm
crochet hook
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this in any size you want.
For Indians : You could use Anchor or Red rose knitting cotton yarns are a good
substitute. I’d also suggest Alize
cotton yarn
For Non-Indians : You can use
any yarn with a suitable hook for this project.
Among international knitting cotton yarns that I’ve used , I’d say
Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia
Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons would work wonderfully for this
project.
Difficulty level
: Easy Skill level.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
We start our project from the bottom up – i.e from
the base of the top to the shoulders.
Our first start row will be half the round measure of the part of the body you
are working with – ie. How long do you want your top? IF you want it till the
waist, then you will start with half round waist measure. Remember that you need to check both the half
chest / bust measure and waist measure and use the larger half round measure.
The pattern tends to open and loosen up after
the 7th row as we use a “V”-st and a lacy dc pattern. May I suggest that you work a fitted first
few rows (till row 6), ensuring that you have the round measures needed.
Part 1 : Front
and back
Make two
The back and front have the same pattern. You will make two similar pieces.
You can
start this pattern with fsc / fdc or chains.
If you are struggling with the foundation start and prefer chain, may I
urge you to try the fsc / fdc start. It
does give a much better finish to your project. However, it is not critical to the project, so go ahead and use whatever start suits you.
You can make this top in any size. Just ensure that you get the stitch count right.
As always, I request that you read through the full instruction sheet once to visualize what we are creating here today. Cheers.
a)
If you
start with fdc, you will work exactly per pattern.
b)
If using
foundation start for the first time and start with fsc, you will work a dc in each fsc all the way to
the end and then start with the 1st row pattern
c)
If
starting with a ch start, start with multiples of 25 + 2, and work your 1st
dc in the 3rd ch from hook.
You will then work a full row of dc till end, and ensure that you have the required stitch count.
Our stitch
count is in multiples of 25
Start with fdc in multiples of 25
for half the round waist / chest measure.
Turn.
Rows
2 - 6 :
dc in the
1st fdc and in each fdc till end. Turn.
From the
next row on, we will work a “V”-st which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st
or ch-sp.
Row
7 :
“V”-st in
the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 4
times ;
[ch 1, sk next dc, “V”-st in the next dc] ;
{rep (to)
once ; rep [to] once} ; rep {to} 2 times* ;
rep *to*
till end. Turn
Before you
do the next row, let’s see what we are going to do.
We have created two pattern
sections.
We have
“V”-sts that ‘divide’ the two pattern sections.
One section is just all dc with ch-1 sps in between, and will continue
to be this pattern all the way till the end.
The second
section has dc and “V”-sts alternating.
So in each “V”-st we will work a dc, and in each dc, we will work a “V”-st.
So in each “V”-st we will work a dc, and in each dc, we will work a “V”-st.
Easy enough?
Row
8 :
“V”-st in
the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
[ch 1, sk
next dc, “V”-st in the next dc] ;
{rep [to]
once ;
rep (to) once} ;
rep {to} 2 times* ;
rep *to*
till end. Turn
...and this
is your pattern done.
One plain dc
section, one section that alternates dc / “V”-st every alternate row.
Rep Rows 7
– 8 till you reach the armhole level.
Part 2 :
Armhole Decrease ideas
For the armhole,
we only decrease once. It does not
matter which row you end with (i.e Row 7 or 8).
The decrease idea is the same.
However,
as there is a small difference in pattern of both sections, I will just write a
general pattern decrease.
In this
section, we will consider both the dc and 1 “V”-st as one st. OK?
To
decrease
you will
sl-st past the the 1st 4 sts and into the 5th st from
end. Carry on in pattern from the 5th
st all the way till the 5th st from the other end. Leave the last 4 sts unworked.
You will
then continue in pattern all the way till you reach the neckline.
Part 3 :
Neckline Decrease ideas
1)
Decide how
deep and how wide you want your neckline
2)
Place a
marker on either side to mark the width of neck. For this, fold your project in half, find the
centre and then place 2 markers at equal distances away from the centre which
will be the side markers.
3)
Work in
pattern from the armhole end till the 1st marker ; dc in the 1st
marker. You will then work back to the armhole end in pattern.
4)
Once you
finish one side per pattern, re-attach your yarn at the 2nd marker
(for neckline) and work back to the armhole on the other side.
5)
Please
check the slight pattern for the shoulder “pads”
6)
You can
decide to work the same depth of neckline for both back and front or (like I
have) opt to work all the way to the top for the back.
If you work to the top, there is no neckline shaping for the back – only armhole shaping.
If you work to the top, there is no neckline shaping for the back – only armhole shaping.
Part 4 :
Pattern for the shoulder portion
Just for a
small difference, I thought of working an all dc section for the shoulders.
It does
not matter if you work in pattern (body pattern) all the way to the top or
choose to work this slightly different pattern.
Once
again, here is what we are going to do.
a)
We will
basically work a dc in each dc and ch-1 sp for the “all-dc” section.
b)
We will
work only 1 dc per “V”-st. So for
the “V”-st you can opt to work the dc in the ch-1 sp, or work one dc in one leg
of the “V”-st. It does not matter what
you choose.. just remember that only 1 dc per “V”-st.
c)
We will
work 1 dc in each ch-1 sp all through.
The first
row is slightly tricky but once you have that done, you will continue working 1
dc in each dc till you reach the shoulder level.
Remember
that you should keep track of how many stitches you have worked along one side
of your top, and duplicate that for the other side.
Part 5 : Sleeves
I have
decided to have a tiny little cap sleeve and here’s what I have done.
Once you
have finished both the front back, please attach the shoulders and sides using
one of the methods given at the top of this blog.
I then ran
a round of sc all around to get a neat edge.
Remember you will work 2 sc in each vertical leg of the dc.
There is
no specific stitch count. Just ensure that you have an even number when
you finish and remember to note how many stitches you have worked around one
armhole to replicate for the other side.
When you
end your round of sc, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
1 :
dc in the
1st st ;
*ch 1, sk next sc, dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to*
till the end ;
ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
2 :
dc in the
1st dc ;
*ch 1, dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to*
till the end ;
ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Rounds
3 - 4 :
Rep Round
2
Round
5 :
dc in the
1st dc ;
*dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to*
till end ;
dc in the last ch-1 sp and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Rounds
6 & 7 :
dc in the
1st dc and in each dc all around.
Join with
a sl-st to the 1st st.
You can
opt to work the Crab stitch or Reverse sc stitch all around as a last
round. The crab stitch gives a lovely
beaded effect.
Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : Here’s an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk
Part 6 :
Finishing
The sides
and shoulders are joined.. The sleeves are made.. we’re almost at the end of
our lovely creation. Let’s just neaten
the neckline edge, shall we?
I have
then run a round of sc all around the neckline.
Once again, remember that you need to work 2 sts per vertical /
horizontal bar of dc. Also remember to
work 2 sc per corner (front especially) to get the neckline to sit flat.
I then ran
a round of hdc in each sc all around just to get a slightly thicker edge.
You can
opt to work the Crab stitch or Reverse sc stitch all around the neckline and
base of the top as well.
And we’re
D..O..N..E !! I totally loved working this creation with you. I hope you enjoyed it as well.
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
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