Tuesday, 17 October 2017


free crochet ladies top pattern, free crochet easy top pattern


Crochet beach cover up 

This is a pretty easy top with a simple “A”-lined finish.  I just made this up as I went along, with no specific pattern in mind – and I totally love how this has turned out, don’t you?

This is my original pattern and idea.  I'd appreciate if you could share my post but do not post my photographs as your own.  You may use my photographs, but they must link back to this blog.  Thank you.

If you make this in cotton, it would make a really good crochet beach cover up or a gym top too.

Do check my long Pinterest link for all the free patterns I’ve written up over the years right at the bottom of this blog.

Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 1 skein of the lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 3-ply acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this in any size you want.

For Indians : Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton and White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with an easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians : You can use any yarn with a suitable hook for this project.  Among international knitting cotton yarns that I’ve used , I’d say Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons would work wonderfully for this project. 

Difficulty level : Easy Skill level. 

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ .  In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :

Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                               sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                         hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                 yo : Yarn  Over
sk : Skip                                                                       sc : Single crochet
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

We start our project from the bottom up – i.e from the base of the top to the shoulders.  

Our first start row will be half the round measure of the part of the body you are working with – ie. How long do you want your top? IF you want it till the waist, then you will start with half round waist measure.  Remember that you need to check both the half chest / bust measure and waist measure and use the larger half round measure.

The pattern tends to open and loosen up after the 7th row as we use a “V”-st and a lacy dc pattern.  May I suggest that you work a fitted first few rows (till row 6), ensuring that you have the round measures needed.

Part 1 : Front and back
Make two

The back and front have the same pattern.  You will make two similar pieces. 
You can start this pattern with fsc / fdc or chains.   
If you are struggling with the foundation start and prefer chain, may I urge you to try the fsc / fdc start.  It does give a much better finish to your project.  However, it is not critical to the project, so go ahead and use whatever start suits you.

You can make this top in any size.  Just ensure that you get the stitch count right.
As always, I request that you read through the full instruction sheet once to visualize what we are creating here today.  Cheers.

a)   If you start with fdc, you will work exactly per pattern.
b)   If using foundation start for the first time and start with fsc,  you will work a dc in each fsc all the way to the end and then start with the 1st row pattern
c)     If starting with a ch start, start with multiples of 25 + 2, and work your 1st dc in the 3rd ch from hook.  You will then work a full row of dc till end, and ensure that you have the required stitch count.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 25

Start with fdc in multiples of 25 for half the round waist / chest measure.  Turn.

Rows 2 - 6 : dc in the 1st fdc and in each fdc till end. Turn.

From the next row on, we will work a “V”-st which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Row 7 : “V”-st in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;  rep (to) 4 times ; 
[ch 1, sk next dc, “V”-st in the next dc] ;
{rep (to) once ; rep [to] once} ; rep {to} 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn

Before you do the next row, let’s see what we are going to do. 
We have created two pattern sections.
We have “V”-sts that ‘divide’ the two pattern sections.  
One section is just all dc with ch-1 sps in between, and will continue to be this pattern all the way till the end.
The second section has dc and “V”-sts alternating.
So in each “V”-st we will work a dc, and in each dc, we will work a “V”-st.  
Easy enough?

Row 8 : “V”-st in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 4 times ;
[ch 1, sk next dc, “V”-st in the next dc] ;
{rep [to] once ; rep (to) once} ; rep {to} 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn

...and this is your pattern done.  
One plain dc section, one section that alternates dc / “V”-st every alternate row. 

Rep Rows 7 – 8 till you reach the armhole level.

Part 2 : Armhole Decrease ideas 
For the armhole, we only decrease once.  It does not matter which row you end with (i.e Row 7 or 8).  The decrease idea is the same.
However, as there is a small difference in pattern of both sections, I will just write a general pattern decrease.

In this section, we will consider both the dc and 1 “V”-st as one st.  OK?

To decrease you will sl-st past the the 1st 4 sts and into the 5th st from end.  Carry on in pattern from the 5th st all the way till the 5th st from the other end.  Leave the last 4 sts unworked.

You will then continue in pattern all the way till you reach the neckline.

Part 3 : Neckline Decrease ideas 
1)      Decide how deep and how wide you want your neckline
2)    Place a marker on either side to mark the width of neck.  For this, fold your project in half, find the centre and then place 2 markers at equal distances away from the centre which will be the side markers.
3)    Work in pattern from the armhole end till the 1st marker ; dc in the 1st marker. You will then work back to the armhole end in pattern.
4)    Once you finish one side per pattern, re-attach your yarn at the 2nd marker (for neckline) and work back to the armhole on the other side.
5)    Please check the slight pattern for the shoulder “pads”
6)    You can decide to work the same depth of neckline for both back and front or (like I have) opt to work all the way to the top for the back.
If you work to the top, there is no neckline shaping for the back – only armhole shaping.

Part 4 : Pattern for the shoulder portion 

Just for a small difference, I thought of working an all dc section for the shoulders.
It does not matter if you work in pattern (body pattern) all the way to the top or choose to work this slightly different pattern.

Once again, here is what we are going to do. 
a)   We will basically work a dc in each dc and ch-1 sp for the “all-dc” section. 
b)   We will work only 1 dc per “V”-st.  So for the “V”-st you can opt to work the dc in the ch-1 sp, or work one dc in one leg of the “V”-st.  It does not matter what you choose.. just remember that only 1 dc per “V”-st.
c)     We will work 1 dc in each ch-1 sp all through.

The first row is slightly tricky but once you have that done, you will continue working 1 dc in each dc till you reach the shoulder level.

Remember that you should keep track of how many stitches you have worked along one side of your top, and duplicate that for the other side.

Part 5 : Sleeves 

I have decided to have a tiny little cap sleeve and here’s what I have done.
Once you have finished both the front back, please attach the shoulders and sides using one of the methods given at the top of this blog.

I then ran a round of sc all around to get a neat edge.  Remember you will work 2 sc in each vertical leg of the dc. 
There is no specific stitch count. Just ensure that you have an even number when you finish and remember to note how many stitches you have worked around one armhole to replicate for the other side.
When you end your round of sc, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 1 : dc in the 1st st ; *ch 1, sk next sc, dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the end ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; *ch 1, dc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the end ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 3 - 4 : Rep Round 2

Round 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; *dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end ; dc in the last ch-1 sp and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 6 & 7 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

You can opt to work the Crab stitch or Reverse sc stitch all around as a last round.  The crab stitch gives a lovely beaded effect.
How to do the crab stitch or reverse single crochet : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wE-ObvYb_Pk

Part 6 : Finishing
The sides and shoulders are joined.. The sleeves are made.. we’re almost at the end of our lovely creation.  Let’s just neaten the neckline edge, shall we?

I have then run a round of sc all around the neckline.  Once again, remember that you need to work 2 sts per vertical / horizontal bar of dc.  Also remember to work 2 sc per corner (front especially) to get the neckline to sit flat.
I then ran a round of hdc in each sc all around just to get a slightly thicker edge.

You can opt to work the Crab stitch or Reverse sc stitch all around the neckline and base of the top as well.

And we’re D..O..N..E !! I totally loved working this creation with you.  I hope you enjoyed it as well.
Do come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog when you make your own creation.   Thanks.

You are welcome to make and sell the product / your creation, but you may not sell this pattern as your own.  This is my free original pattern and will always be available free.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ 

And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas

Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my older creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too

No comments:

Post a Comment