NEAT
FITTED LACY BOLERO
This
is a neat fitted lacy bolero that fits on top of your dress – a lacy wispy
creation that is fitted as well.
It
is a pretty (not too difficult) pattern repeat and I’d say it can be attempted
by almost anyone.. so come along and let’s see how we make this lovely
creation.
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And inspired by this photo, here are my
pattern notes as I work on my project.
Materials used :
Today
I’ve used ~ 200 gms of 4-Seasons Pony 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm
Note : Mod Podge will not work / stiffen acrylic
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.
The
stitches used in this project are easy.
The skill level lies in the calculations of body measure and converting
that into the stitch pattern. This is
not too hard, so do come along…let’s work on this together.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
I
am using the charts attached to this stunning creation.
The notifications on
the chart are not in English – so I am just playing in by ear (or hook? ;) ) to
try and figure out what they mean.
These
are the notes for what I have done.
Please read
through all my detailed notes before you pick up your hook. Cheers.
The
pattern is worked bottom up.
If
you see this diagram, you see that we will work from waist up and then work the
sleeves as part of the top portion all in one piece.
There
are two patterns to the body of this project.
The
lower portion is plain stitches (choose to work in sc / hdc or dc, depending on
the yarn you are using and /or how fine an end product you want)
The
top portion has these lovely shelled creations that are nice and lacy but
chunky-ish too.
I decided to leave the front button-less and jacket-like, but you can add buttons at the bottom if you decide.
So
what I have done is start with a row of foundation chain, and then work the
lacy portion first, going all the way past the sleeves to the neckline.
I then came back to the foundation row and worked down with the plain portion.
How this works beautifully (even if this is not what the designer has done) is that you can nicely control the length of the project you are creating.
I then came back to the foundation row and worked down with the plain portion.
How this works beautifully (even if this is not what the designer has done) is that you can nicely control the length of the project you are creating.
So
first off measurements :
1.
Round
waist : The first row that we work will the round waist. We need to get the round waist measure if you
want a neat fitted waist, so let’s get that done first.
2.
Round
bust measure : Unless there is a big difference between bust and waist
measures, do not worry as around the bust, we will be increasing for sleeves,
so we get a loose-ish finish around bust and not fitted here.
3.
Length
of top : You need to decide not just how long you want it, but from where you
would like to start the shelled pattern.
I usually like to keep a well fitting top of the person this is intended
for. If making for general sale, then
I’d just go with general body size measurements. Make one your size, and then
you’ll figure it out doubly quick – and get a lovely project for yourself as
well J
Cool huh?
4. Sleeve
Length : to be measured from end of shoulder to end of arm – for as long as you
want the sleeve. As we are not shaping
for armhole, imagine that we would be creating a rectangle – so the sleeve will
fall straight down from shoulder. Got
it?
5.
The
neckline, as you can see, is pretty deep, and goes all the way down to the
plain portion of the bolero.
Ok..
now with all measurements in hand.. lets’ start
Part
1 : Back
We
work one back and two front portions for this bolero.
Start Row 1 : with fdc in multiples of 8
+ 1 for half the round waist measure (or the round measure of that part of the
body that you are going to start the pattern from). Turn
In
the following row, if we are working per chart we should be working hdc all
down the row. I have decided to use a sc
instead. Use either hdc or sc – create
and make a unique difference.
Row 2 : sc in I the 1st fdc ;
*ch 7, sk next 7 fdc, sc in the next fdc* ;
rep *to* till end.
Turn
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
7 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;
*sk next sc, 7 dc in the next ch-7 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ; dc in the last sc.
Turn
Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
ch
3, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next dc ;
*ch 7, sk next 6 dc, sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the last 4 dc ;
sc in that 4th
dc from end ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc in the last dc
Turn
Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; 3
dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
7 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;
*sk next sc, 7 dc in the next ch-7 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ;
dc in the last sc.
Turn
Row 6 : sc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 7, sk next 6 dc, sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the end ;
dc in the last dc
Turn
And just like that we’ve completed one pattern repeat.
Rep Rows 3 – 6 till you reach the armhole level, ending with Row 5.
Before you go further, please read the instructions
below for sleeve stitch addition.
We will add stitches at both ends of the last row, and then work the sleeve to shoulder portion from one end to the other.
We will add stitches at both ends of the last row, and then work the sleeve to shoulder portion from one end to the other.
OK, so, what happens if you are say on Row 3, and have
reached the armhole level and now need to work one more rows to get to Row 5?
No worries – you just get that much more length with this pattern, and we are
still going to work a plain section below – so you just reduce the length and
get it all right then.
Got it? Don’t panic .. yet ;) Just carry on for the
sleeves.
Sleeve stitch addition
A small calculation for our sleeves
1.
Look at your sleeve length and try to calculate a
gauge. A gauge is checking how many
dc make up say 1”.
2.
Using this gauge, try to calculate how many stitches
you’d need for the sleeve length you want.
How does this work?
Say you have 8 stitches per 1”, and you want a sleeve length of 9” ;
then you will work (8 x 9 = 72 sts). Got
it?
For our sleeve, we will be adding chain in multiples
of 8 each side.
If you can add fsc here, then you will add with exact
multiples of 8.
If you are adding chain, you will add it in multiples
of 8 + 2. We will work our 1st
dc in the 3rd ch from hk and that will be our 1st dc.
So with the above example, when you end with Row 6, you
will add 72 chain (+2 for that 1st dc).
1.
Once you have worked out how many stitches you need for
the sleeve, you will complete Row 6 and then add that many chain in multiples
of 8 + 1 for this side.
2.
Fasten off and re-attach your yarn at the last st of
this same Row 6 on the other side, and add chain in multiples of 8 + 1
for the second side.
3.
Fasten off and re-attach your yarn back at the other
end. You need to do this to get the dc
all facing the same direction when you re-start your pattern.
4.
To start the pattern, rep Row 2 once.
5.
The only difference in reading the instructions
is that for one part you will be working in fsc and not fdc, and for the centre
(body) portion, you know the pattern – but if you want a reference, it is the
pattern from Row 6 (and yes, this is the same pattern rep from Row 2 )
6.
Rep pattern from Rows 3 – 6 again for half the round
armhole measure or half the round sleeve measure.
7.
Once you have the round armhole / sleeve done, you
should have reached the shoulder level.
8.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Part
2 : Fronts
We
work two front portions for this bolero.
The
pattern is worked exactly as you have for the front – but I’ll just review
items that you should keep in mind.
1.
You
are working only for half the back – so start with half the number of stitches
as you did for back
2.
You
will still keep the stitch count in multiples of 8 + 1 for the body
portion
3.
For
the sleeves, you will work only one sleeve at a time, so your stitch count will
be in multiples of 8 + 3 and as before you will work your 1st
st in the 3rd ch from hk.
4. Keep a note
of the number of stitches you are using at all times.
Part
3 : Lower portion of bolero
Before
we work on the lower portion of our bolero, here are a few thoughts / ideas.
1. Would
you like to attach the lower portion?
2.
Would
you like to work 2 fronts and 1 back?
Depending
on what you decide here are ideas.
1.
Attaching lower portion : For a
fitted end result, you could work the lower portion of the bolero as one
piece. For this, you will first need to
attach the shoulder to arm portion, and then join the two sides of your fronts
and back, to get one single top portion for your bolero. Then re-attach your yarn at one side, and
work the lower portion all in one round, seamlessly.
2.
Working 2 fronts and 1 back : You will
still get a fitted end result, but you will need to add buttons and a button
placket along the front edge. In this
case, you will re-attach your yarn at one back edge, work back and forth till
you finish the length needed for the back.
You will then repeat that many lines / pattern for both of your front
halves. After you have completed the
front and back portions, you will attach the shoulder to arm portion, and then
the two sides all the way down. You will
finally attach a button placket to the front edges, ensuring you make button
holes along one side to complete.
Finally as mentioned above, choose if you wish to add buttons.
If you do, then factor in the button holes along the left hand side of your work.
Now
no matter what your decisions, the ‘pattern’ stays the same. I will just tell you what to do pattern-wise.
Please attach your yarn etc, as outlined above.
Keep
your work such that you are back at the 1st fdc row. If you are working in rounds, may I suggest
that you re-attach your yarn such that you have the right side facing and your
1st dc row faces right side up.
If
working with 2 fronts and 1 back, and attaching buttons, it does not matter, as
you will be working side to side anyway.
Please
note that we will start numbering from Row / Round 1 again.
Row / Round 1 : dc in the 1st fdc and in each fdc
all the way to the end.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Row / Round 2 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc all
the way to the end.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Rep
Row / Round 2 till you have the length needed for your bolero.
Hope
you have fun creating this lovely bolero as well.
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my other creations.
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
and a doll’s top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
.. and some neckwear
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
