Tuesday, 30 October 2018

NEAT FITTED LACY BOLERO

NEAT FITTED LACY BOLERO - Free crochet pattern info from Sweet Nothings crochet
This is a neat fitted lacy bolero that fits on top of your dress – a lacy wispy creation that is fitted as well.
It is a pretty (not too difficult) pattern repeat and I’d say it can be attempted by almost anyone.. so come along and let’s see how we make this lovely creation. 

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Materials used :  Today I’ve used ~ 200 gms of 4-Seasons Pony 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; Mod Podge to stiffen motif
Note : Mod Podge will not work / stiffen acrylic
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros ; Red rose metallic or  unbranded  knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
International yarns :  Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level. 
The stitches used in this project are easy.  The skill level lies in the calculations of body measure and converting that into the stitch pattern.  This is not too hard, so do come along…let’s work on this together.

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw 
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Magic circle :  https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                  sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet         sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch               ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)               hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
                                                                                
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.  This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project. 
front view
I am using the charts attached to this stunning creation. 
The notifications on the chart are not in English – so I am just playing in by ear (or hook? ;) ) to try and figure out what they mean.  
These are the notes for what I have done.
Please read through all my detailed notes before you pick up your hook.  Cheers.

The pattern is worked bottom up.
If you see this diagram, you see that we will work from waist up and then work the sleeves as part of the top portion all in one piece.
There are two patterns to the body of this project.
The lower portion is plain stitches (choose to work in sc / hdc or dc, depending on the yarn you are using and /or how fine an end product you want)
The top portion has these lovely shelled creations that are nice and lacy but chunky-ish too.
I decided to leave the front button-less and jacket-like, but you can add buttons at the bottom if you decide. 

So what I have done is start with a row of foundation chain, and then work the lacy portion first, going all the way past the sleeves to the neckline. 
I then came back to the foundation row and worked down with the plain portion.
How this works beautifully (even if this is not what the designer has done) is that you can nicely control the length of the project you are creating.

So first off measurements :
1.        Round waist : The first row that we work will the round waist.  We need to get the round waist measure if you want a neat fitted waist, so let’s get that done first.
2.      Round bust measure : Unless there is a big difference between bust and waist measures, do not worry as around the bust, we will be increasing for sleeves, so we get a loose-ish finish around bust and not fitted here.
3.      Length of top : You need to decide not just how long you want it, but from where you would like to start the shelled pattern.  I usually like to keep a well fitting top of the person this is intended for.  If making for general sale, then I’d just go with general body size measurements. Make one your size, and then you’ll figure it out doubly quick – and get a lovely project for yourself as well J Cool huh?
4.     Sleeve Length : to be measured from end of shoulder to end of arm – for as long as you want the sleeve.  As we are not shaping for armhole, imagine that we would be creating a rectangle – so the sleeve will fall straight down from shoulder.  Got it?
5.      The neckline, as you can see, is pretty deep, and goes all the way down to the plain portion of the bolero.

Ok.. now with all measurements in hand.. lets’ start

PART 1 : Back
We work one back and two front portions for this bolero.
pattern detailchart 1

Chart 2

Chart 3 : shape
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k 
Start Row 1 : with fdc in multiples of 8 + 1 for half the round waist measure (or the round measure of that part of the body that you are going to start the pattern from).  Turn 

In the following row, if we are working per chart we should be working hdc all down the row.  I have decided to use a sc instead.  Use either hdc or sc – create and make a unique difference.

What is a crochet chain stitch ?  https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps.  One sc made.  Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Row 2 : sc in I the 1st fdc ;
*ch 7, sk next 7 fdc, sc in the next fdc* ;
rep *to* till end.
Turn 

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
7 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;
*sk next sc, 7 dc in the next ch-7 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ; dc in the last sc.
Turn 

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next dc ;
*ch 7, sk next 6 dc, sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the last 4 dc ; 
sc in that 4th dc from end ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc in the last dc
Turn 

Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
7 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;
*sk next sc, 7 dc in the next ch-7 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ; 
dc in the last sc.
Turn 

Row 6 : sc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 7, sk next 6 dc, sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the end ;
dc in the last dc
Turn 

And just like that we’ve completed one pattern repeat.
Rep Rows 3 – 6 till you reach the armhole level, ending with Row 5.
back view
Before you go further, please read the instructions below for sleeve stitch addition. 
We will add stitches at both ends of the last row, and then work the sleeve to shoulder portion from one end to the other.

OK, so, what happens if you are say on Row 3, and have reached the armhole level and now need to work one more rows to get to Row 5? No worries – you just get that much more length with this pattern, and we are still going to work a plain section below – so you just reduce the length and get it all right then. 
Got it? Don’t panic .. yet ;) Just carry on for the sleeves.

Sleeve stitch addition 
sleeve
A small calculation for our sleeves

1.        Look at your sleeve length and try to calculate a gauge.  A gauge is checking how many dc make up say 1”. 
2.      Using this gauge, try to calculate how many stitches you’d need for the sleeve length you want.

How does this work?  Say you have 8 stitches per 1”, and you want a sleeve length of 9” ; then you will work (8 x 9 = 72 sts).  Got it?

For our sleeve, we will be adding chain in multiples of 8 each side.
If you can add fsc here, then you will add with exact multiples of 8.
If you are adding chain, you will add it in multiples of 8 + 2.  We will work our 1st dc in the 3rd ch from hk and that will be our 1st dc.

So with the above example, when you end with Row 6, you will add 72 chain (+2 for that 1st dc). 
1.        Once you have worked out how many stitches you need for the sleeve, you will complete Row 6 and then add that many chain in multiples of 8 + 1 for this side. 
2.      Fasten off and re-attach your yarn at the last st of this same Row 6 on the other side, and add chain in multiples of 8 + 1 for the second side. 
3.      Fasten off and re-attach your yarn back at the other end.  You need to do this to get the dc all facing the same direction when you re-start your pattern.
4.     To start the pattern, rep Row 2 once.
5.      The only difference in reading the instructions is that for one part you will be working in fsc and not fdc, and for the centre (body) portion, you know the pattern – but if you want a reference, it is the pattern from Row 6 (and yes, this is the same pattern rep from Row 2 )
6.     Rep pattern from Rows 3 – 6 again for half the round armhole measure or half the round sleeve measure. 
7.      Once you have the round armhole / sleeve done, you should have reached the shoulder level.
8.      Fasten off and weave in ends.

PART 2 : Fronts
We work two front portions for this bolero.

The pattern is worked exactly as you have for the front – but I’ll just review items that you should keep in mind.
1.        You are working only for half the back – so start with half the number of stitches as you did for back
2.      You will still keep the stitch count in multiples of 8 + 1 for the body portion
3.      For the sleeves, you will work only one sleeve at a time, so your stitch count will be in multiples of 8 + 3 and as before you will work your 1st st in the 3rd ch from hk.
4.     Keep a note of the number of stitches you are using at all times.

PART 3 : Lower portion of bolero
Before we work on the lower portion of our bolero, here are a few thoughts / ideas.
1.      Would you like to attach the lower portion?
2.      Would you like to work 2 fronts and 1 back?
Depending on what you decide here are ideas.

1.        Attaching lower portion : For a fitted end result, you could work the lower portion of the bolero as one piece.  For this, you will first need to attach the shoulder to arm portion, and then join the two sides of your fronts and back, to get one single top portion for your bolero.  Then re-attach your yarn at one side, and work the lower portion all in one round, seamlessly.
2.      Working 2 fronts and 1 back : You will still get a fitted end result, but you will need to add buttons and a button placket along the front edge.   In this case, you will re-attach your yarn at one back edge, work back and forth till you finish the length needed for the back.  You will then repeat that many lines / pattern for both of your front halves.  After you have completed the front and back portions, you will attach the shoulder to arm portion, and then the two sides all the way down.  You will finally attach a button placket to the front edges, ensuring you make button holes along one side to complete.

Finally as mentioned above, choose if you wish to add buttons.  
If you do, then factor in the button holes along the left hand side of your work.

Now no matter what your decisions, the ‘pattern’ stays the same.  I will just tell you what to do pattern-wise. Please attach your yarn etc, as outlined above.

Keep your work such that you are back at the 1st fdc row.  If you are working in rounds, may I suggest that you re-attach your yarn such that you have the right side facing and your 1st dc row faces right side up.
If working with 2 fronts and 1 back, and attaching buttons, it does not matter, as you will be working side to side anyway.

Please note that we will start numbering from Row / Round 1 again.

Row / Round 1 : dc in the 1st fdc and in each fdc all the way to the end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Row / Round 2 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc all the way to the end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rep Row / Round 2 till you have the length needed for your bolero.

Hope you have fun creating this lovely bolero as well.

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Have a great day and see you soon. 

Here are some of my other creations.  









































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https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf




 




























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