Sweet Nothings Crochet: CUTE PINEAPPLE BOLERO

CUTE PINEAPPLE BOLERO - free crochet pattern info from Sweet Nothings Crochet

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This is not my original pattern .. it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net, but these are my original notes, as I work on my own creation and I am sharing them free with you.

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Materials used : I've used about 140 gms of Oswal Cashmilon, 4-ply baby fingering yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e  ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns :  Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size and gauge are not specific. They are just given for yarn estimation.

Size made : Chest : 26”

Gauge : 1 “V”-st (across) x 2 “V”-st rows (high) = 1”
Gauge is not specific

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :   https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet ch : Chain

sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Original pattern link probably this one

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Right ho then.. let’s see how the designer has thought this one through.

There are four parts to this cute creation.

So this project starts in the center back and you then work four pineapples to complete the back.

The front has the similar pattern, but cut short to give a good curve for the front lapels.

A lovely border finishes it all off.

You can make this into a short crop top, by just working two back patterns, and then joining it along the sides, leaving an armhole opening, and along the shoulders, leaving a neck opening. Try it and let me know how it works out.

So with the yarn and hook I've used, I've got a Size 26” and I think that if you are making this for a different size, you could adjust by increasing / decreasing hook and yarn sizes. I am usually able to figure out sizing differences and give you an idea of what to do, but with today's project, I'm not that sure - It's gonna be a bit of a trial and error if this does not work to you size.. Play with it and enjoy

PART 1 : BACK

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Round 1 : Start with a magic circle and 16 dc in that circle.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1^st dc and each dc till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

What is a crochet chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Round 3 : 2 dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 dc , (2 dc in the next dc ) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 3, sk next 2 dc , rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* 2 times ;

ch 2, sk next 2 dc , rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 3, sk next 2 dc , rep (to) once.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

From the next round, we will use a "V"-st.

“V”-stitch : “V”-st : (2 dc , ch 2 , 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

“V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

ch 1, sk next 4 dc , 10 dc in next ch-3 sp ;

*ch 1, sk next 4 dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st ;

ch 1, 10 dc in next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 1, sk next 4 dc , join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 5 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

“V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

ch 2 , [(dc in next dc , ch 1) ;

rep (to) 8 times ,

dc in next dc] ;

*ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 6 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

{“V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp} ;

ch 2 , sk 1^st dc, [(sc in next ch-1 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) 7 times ;

sc in next ch-1 sp] ;

*ch 2, rep {to} once ;

ch 2 , rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 7 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

{“V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st} ;

ch 2 , sk next ch-2 sp, [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) 6 times ;

sc in next ch-3 sp] ;

*ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp ,

rep {to} once ;

ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp ,

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 8 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

{“V”-st in the same “V”-st; ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp,

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st } ;

ch 2 , [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

sc in next ch-3 sp] ;

*ch 2, rep {to} once ;

ch 2, rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 9 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

“V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp , (4 dc , ch 1, 4 dc) all in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 2, [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) 3 times ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ;

*ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp , (4 dc , ch 1, 4 dc) all in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 2, [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) 4 times ; sc in next ch-3 sp]* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 10 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

“V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

ch 2, {“V”-st in the next dc ;

ch 2, sk next 3 dc , (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp ;

ch 2 , sk next 3 dc , “V”-st in next dc} ;

ch 2 , “V”-st in next “V”-st ;

ch 2, [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) 3 times ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ;

*ch 2 , “V”-st in next “V”-st ;

ch 2, rep {to} once ;

ch 2 , “V”-st in next “V”-st ;

ch 2 , rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 11 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ; “V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;

ch 2, {4 dc in next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, 4 dc in same ch-3 sp} ;

rep (to) twice ;

ch 2 , [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) once ; sc in next ch-3 sp ] ;

*rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 2, rep {to} once ;

rep (to) twice ;

ch 2 , [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) once ;

sc in next ch-3 sp]* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 12 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

“V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 2, “V”-st in the next dc ;

ch 2, sk next 3 dc, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 2, sk next 3 dc ; “V”-st in the next dc] ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

*ch 2 , sc in the next sc,

ch 3, sc in the next sc ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

rep [to] once ;

rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 13 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

“V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 2, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, 4 dc in same ch-3 sp ] ;

rep (to) 3 times,

*ch 2 , sc in the next sc ;

ch 3 , rep (to) 3 times ;

rep [to] once ;

rep (to) 3 times* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Now here’s the fun part.. figuring out how to make this square into the back of the vest !!

Now the designer has given two ‘explanatory’ charts, both of which don’t make much sense to me.. so looking at the lovely photograph also conveniently attached, I’m going to try and get this bit done.

I have, however, also attached the two charts, so in case you understand how that’s been used, do add it to the comments , so we can help someone else along without our struggle! Thanks

To carry on, I’ve fastened off now and after weaving in edges, we’ll re-attach our yarn at the right hand side corner “V”- st,(which marks one arm hole).

So leave that last “V”-st and re-attach in the centre of the 2^nd “V”-st, with the right side of your work facing you.

So let’s take a look at what we’ve made.

We’ve got the ‘pineapple’ in the centre, and on either side we’ve got these’ “V”-sts going around. We’re going to build up on the “V”-sts now.

So we have 5 “V”-sts on that 1^st line (counting off right of the pineapple).

We’ll leave the 1^st pineapple, and take the other 4 “V”-sts up for the back.

Make sense??

For convenience, let’s re-number our rows again.

Row 1 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 2, dc in next dc ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

sk last “V”-st. Turn.

Row 2 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 2, dc in next dc ;

rep (to) 4 times till end. Turn.

Rows 3 – 7 : Rep Row 2

We’ll now split up for the 2 shoulder bits.

Rows 8 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) . Turn.

Rows 9 - 10 : Rep Row 8.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. This shoulder done.

Now re-attach yarn for the other shoulder and rep these rows to match the shoulder.

Fasten that side off too.. and you’re done with the back.. for now.

PART 2 : FRONT : (Make two)

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Round 1 : Start with a magic circle and 16 dc in that circle.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1^st dc and each dc till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 3 : 2 dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 dc , (2 dc in the next dc ) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 3, sk next 2 dc , rep (to) 2 times* ;

rep *to* 2 times ;

ch 2, sk next 2 dc , rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 3, sk next 2 dc , rep (to) once.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

“V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

ch 1, sk next 4 dc , 10 dc in next ch-3 sp ;

*ch 1, sk next 4 dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st ;

ch 1, 10 dc in next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 1, sk next 4 dc , join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 5 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

“V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

ch 2 , [(dc in next dc , ch 1) ;

rep (to) 8 times , dc in next dc] ;

*ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”-st ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 6 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

{“V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp} ;

ch 2 , sk 1^st dc, [(sc in next ch-1 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) 7 times ; sc in next ch-1 sp] ;

*ch 2, rep {to} once ;

ch 2 , rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 7 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

{“V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st } ;

ch 2 , sk next ch-2 sp, [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) 6 times ; sc in next ch-3 sp ] ;

*ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp , rep {to} once ;

ch 2, sk next ch-2 sp , rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 8 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

{“V”-st in the same “V”-st ;

ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st } ;

ch 2 , [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

sc in next ch-3 sp ] ;

*ch 2, rep {to} once ;

ch 2, rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

From this round on, the pattern changes from the back.

The pineapple only reaches completion on the top bit, and the other three pineapples are finished here, and then we reach the width/length needed for our bolero with “V”-sts.

Round 9 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp of “V”-st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in next sc ;

ch 2 , “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;

[ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp ,

“V”-st in next ch-3 sp] ;

rep [to] twice ;

ch 2 , “V”-st in next “V”-st ;

*rep (to) once ;

rep [to] 3 times ;

ch 2 , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* once ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2 , [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

sc in next ch-3 sp ] ;

ch 2, join with sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Ok another quick look at our work.

So we’ve now completed the two sides of our work – the top and bottom need to be extended.

On the top, we’ll complete the pineapple and then match up the shoulder strappy bits, and the bottom, we need a few more “V”-st rows to reach length of back.

So , sl-st into the ch-2 sp of the corner “V”-st and we’ll complete this top pineapple and shoulders first, then we’ll come back for the bottom bit.

Row 10 : “V”-st into the same “V” st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ;

ch 2 , [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

sc in next ch-3 sp ] ;

rep (to) twice ;

ch 2 , 2 dc in same last “V”-st. Turn.

Row 11 : “V”-st into the 1^st “V” st ; (ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2 , [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

sc in next ch-3 sp ] ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2, dc in next ch-2 sp. Turn.

Row 12 : dc in the 1^st dc ; “V”-st in next “V”’ st ;

ch 2 , [(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 3) ;

rep (to) once ;

sc in next ch-3 sp ] ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ;

rep (to) 2 times. Turn.

Row 13 : “V”-st into the 1^st “V” st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 2 , sc in next ch-3 sp ;

ch 3 , sc in next ch-3 sp ;

rep (to) once ;

dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 14 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

“V”-st in next “V”’ st ;

ch 2 , sc in next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ;

rep (to) 2 times . Turn.

Row 15 : “V”-st into the 1^st “V” st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ;

rep (to) once ;

sk both ch-2 sps and sc , “V”-st in next “V”-st ;

dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 16 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 2, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp between “V”-st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st);

rep (to) 2 times . Turn.

Row 17 : “V”-st into the 1^st “V” st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ;

rep (to) once ;

sk next 2 dc, dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 18 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

sk next 2 dc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp between “V”-st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st);

rep (to) once. Turn.

Row 19 : “V”-st into the 1^st “V” st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st) ;

sk next 2 dc, dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 20 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st);

rep (to) once. Turn.

Row 21 : “V”-st into the 1^st “V” st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in next “V”’ st). Turn.

Rows 22 - 24 : Rep Row 21.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing your shoulder.

We've finished the top half of one side of your front.. Yaay !

PART 3 : BOTTOM FRONT

To complete the bottom bit, turn your work around and with the front side facing, reattach your yarn in the ch-2 sp of the corner “V”-st.

Bottom Row 1 : 2 dc in the 1^st “V”-st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

sk next 2 dc [part of the “V”-st just used], dc in next dc Turn.

Bottom Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

“V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;

rep (to) 4 times,

ch 2 , dc in next dc Turn.

Bottom Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

sk next 2 dc [part of the “V"-st just used],

dc in next dc Turn.

Last Row : Rep Bottom Row 2 once.

And that’s one front side done !!

Work a mirror image for the other side, and then all we’ve got left is the joining and the border. Great going !!

Now that you’re done with both the fronts and one back, go ahead and attach the shoulders and the sides. Let’s now do the lovely border and finish our bolero up.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

PART 4: BORDER

Keeping the right side of your work facing you, attach your yarn in the ch-2 sp of the “V”-st on one side of your front lapel. We’re making the first line of ‘base’ sts on which we will run a row of little ‘shells’ – so as long as your first base line is evenly spaced, it doesn’t matter whether you’re working in a ch-sp or st.

Work this border all around your armhole openings as well.

Work a round of sc and ch-3 sps evenly all around. So you will start by attaching your yarn, and then sc in that same ch-2 sp and then ch 3, sc in the next sp /st ;

*ch 3, sc in the next sp/st* all the way around till you reach this first sc again.

Join with a sl-st to this sc.

Border shells : 6 dc in 1^st ch-3 sp,

sc in next ch-3 sp ;

*6 dc in next ch-3 sp , sc in next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your cool bolero on and show off.. you deserve to

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Here are some of my other creations.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/05/shankh-bolero-plus-scarf.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/04/makadee-bolero.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/04/coquille-bolero.html