Sweet Nothings Crochet: SHELLED BOLERO

SHELLED BOLERO - free crochet pattern info from Sweet Nothings Crochet

Today we'll work on a very exciting crochet project - a lovely light and lacy bolero. I have used some soft (Indian) acrylic that's worked perfectly. You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this shelled bolero.
I thank my friend Rajeshwari, who showed me this pin just as I was wondering what I’d make next.. so thanks, friend!

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Materials used : Oswal Cashmilon, 4-ply baby fingering yarn, ~ 150 gms , with a 3.25 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends

This yarn is not specific for this project.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size made : 36”

You can make it to any size. Size only given for yarn estimation

Gauge : 5 dc (across) = 1” x 1 dc rows (high) = 1/2”

Gauge not specific. Only given with specification of my yarn. You just need to ensure you get it to the size you need

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch

yo : Yarn Over hk : Hook

dc : Double crochet ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es)

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

PART 1 : BACK : Make one

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

This is not my original pattern and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net. I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. I found this pattern inspiration and chart here

Right ho then.. let’s see how the designer has thought this one through.

So this project starts with the back and working bottom up.

So we work all the way up from waist to the shoulders.

We build it as a rectangle – till you reach the ‘height’ you want for your neckline from the back.

It’s then split into two halves for the front. Now usually I give instructions such that you can make this to any size - but with this pattern I'm not that sure. I think if we increase hook / yarn size, we can try to see if it works - but it will be a trial and error effort.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start with fsc in multiples of 8 for half round waist measure. Turn.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc ;

*ch 3, sk next 3 fsc , 5 dc in the next fsc ;

ch 3, sk next 3 fsc, 2 dc in next fsc* ;

rep *to* till last 8 sts or last rep ;

ch 3, sk next 3 fsc , 5 dc in the next fsc ;

ch 3, sk next 3 fsc, dc in last fsc. Turn

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.

Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo

What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*sk next ch-3 sp ,

[dc in the next 2 dc , dc in next dc ;

ch 1, dc in same dc ; dc in the next 2 dc] ;

(sk next ch-3 sp, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;

ch-3 over same dc 2-tog, and sl-st into top of same dc 2-tog )* ;

rep *to* till last rep ;

sk next ch-3 sp , rep [to] once ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in last dc. Turn

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 3, sk next 3 dc , 5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp (on top of the next dc 2-tog)* ;

rep *to* till last rep ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc , 5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc in last dc. Turn

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*sk next ch-3 sp , [dc in the next 2 dc , dc in next dc ;

ch 1, dc in same dc ; dc in the next 2 dc] ;

(sk next ch-3 sp, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ,

ch-3 over same dc 2-tog, and sl-st into top of same dc 2-tog )* ;

rep *to* till last rep ;

sk next ch-3 sp , rep [to] once ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in last dc. Turn

Rep Rows 3 & 4 till your project reaches the height you want for the back of your bolero.

So let’s get this done, and we’ll catch up with one another in a bit.

Ok.. we've reached the shoulders coming up from the waist and here’s where I throw you another curve ball.

Now per the diagram right in the first sheet, the designer (follow the arrows on the chart below to see what I mean) has shown the bolero starting at waist and going straight up to the shoulders and then coolly dividing for the 2 front halves. Neat??

Well, here’s where I throw the curve ball.. and offer you choices...

The pattern (shells) is small at base, and then opens on top, right? i.e "V"-like

So if you continue the pattern, splitting for front, then the pattern in front has the shells coming ‘down’/ inverted "V", while they’re going ‘up’ along the back.. and I’m not sure if you want this done – so here’s what I’m going to do.

I’m going to give you two front options, and you choose the one that suits you.

Option A will go with the pattern all the way down, so there is no attachment the shoulders.

Option B means you end off at the shoulders for back, and then start again for the front in two parts and join them up at the shoulders.

OPTION A :

Continue with rep of Rows 3 & 4, but instead of doing the whole row, work pattern repeats to fit your shoulder and then turn.

You continue these Row 3 & 4 repeats till you have come down all the way down the front to the length you need.

Remember that this ‘slender strip’ you’re now working on comprises a little of the back (to give yourself a slight neckline at the back) as well – so it may ‘look’ a little longer.

Please check information on Option B for the increase and decrease rows.

On completing one side, you re-attach your yarn for the second front side and match up to the side already completed.

In this case, you will finish back and front together, and skip Option B and making of 2 separate fronts.

We’ll then meet up again to complete the border.

OPTION B :

We’ve still not finished completely with our back rectangle, as we’ve got to divide for the neckline and shoulder(s).

So let’s carry on

Once again, you carry on with reps of Rows 3 & 4 but only for the width needed for your shoulders.

You turn and continue on these two rows.. oh about 2 reps (so 4 rows).

Then you can fasten off and re-attach yarn for the other shoulder bit and complete that too.

Once that’s done, you’re finished with the back.

PART 2 : FRONT(s) : Make two

You will start with fsc in the same no. of stitches as needed for the width of your shoulder and rep Rows 1-4 as for back.

Rep Rows 3 & 4 at least three more times.

Now as this is a free-sized pattern, I’m going to give you instructions on how to increase

Next Row : (Increase row) :

ch 6 (equals 1 dc + ch 3), dc in the 3^rd ch from hk ;

*ch 3 , (sk next 3 dc) , 5 dc in next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp on top of the next dc 2-tog* ;

rep *to* till last rep ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc , 5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc in last dc. Turn

Next Row : Rep Row 4 (from our original back pattern).

Next Row : Rep Row 3 (from our original back pattern).

Rep Rows 3 & 4 about 5-6 times till you’re about 4 shells from top

(one shell = both Rows 3 & 4)

Your decrease row will be in Row 4, where you have the ch-3 sps that you need to make

Decrease row : So in this row, at the neck edge (not the armhole edge, but the other side, where we’ve increased the sts), you just skip the ch-3 sp ; which means that you go straight from the 5 dc in ch-1 sp to 2 dc in the last dc, and you’ve taken off the increased sts.

Right so once you’re done with both the front halves and the back, go ahead and join the shoulder strips and the sides, leaving your armhole opening. We’ll now figure out the border, that you can do in one continuous movement around the neckline, down front lapels as well as bottom of your bolero. You can also do the same border around the arm hole openings.

PART 3 : BORDER

The plan is to go up one side of the lapel, across the back, down the front lapel on the other side and then around the back to reach back to where we started.

Re-attach your yarn at the front bottom corner of your lapel on one side.

Now there is no exact count as to where which stitch is going to go.. so all I’d suggest is you go around with the 1^st row of stitches, and then the rest of the border will come on evenly.

Row 1 : sc in the 1^st 2 sts, ch 3 ,

sk sts (ensuring that you’re spacing these sts evenly, this is where I cannot specify how many sts or ch-sps you are skipping, as long as it’s even, you’re border is going to be great) ;

sc in the next 2 sts ;

*ch 3, sk sts evenly, sc in the next 2 sts* ;

rep *to* all around,

joining with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Row 2 : sl-st into 1^st ch-3 sp, 2 sc in same ch-3 sp ;

ch 2, sc in same ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, sk next 2 sc, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next 2 sc ;

*(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 2, sc in same ch-3 sp) ;

ch 3 , sk next 2 sc, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, sk next 2 sc* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Row 3 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp ; sc in same ch-2 sp ;

ch 3, (2 dc next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc) ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, rep (to) once ;

*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Row 4 : sl-st till the 1^st dc (i.e through the 1^st ch-3 sp) ;

[dc in the 1^st 3 dc , ch 3, dc in the same 3^rd dc and the next 2 dc] ;

*sk both ch-3 sps and sc , rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end.

In the last rep, instead of a ch 5, do a ch 2 and dc (so you’re in the middle of that last ch-5 sp)

This is the last row, so all we’re doing is adding some flair.. and that’s with the cute little decorative picot, which you will do in the centre ch of the ch-5 sp ; and is is just a ch 3, sc in the middle of the ch-5 sp. Right let’s get this bit done.

Last Row : (sc in the ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sc in this same sc ) ;

*ch 6, sk next 6 dc, rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all the way around.

Join with an sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Now go ahead and do the same edging around the two armholes as well.

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, photo for front border of for Shelled Bolero,

Border detail

Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your cool bolero on and show off.. you deserve to

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Here are some of my other creations.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/05/shankh-bolero-plus-scarf.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/04/makadee-bolero.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/04/coquille-bolero.html