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Tuesday, 14 October 2014

SHELLED BOLERO


SHELLED BOLERO

Thanks to my friend Rajeshwari, this one landed on my lap just as I was wondering what I’d make next.. so thanks, friend! J


This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.  J

Right ho then.. let’s see how the designer has thought this one through.  So this project starts with the back, and goes all the way up to the shoulders, built in a rectangle – till you reach the ‘height’ you want for your neckline from the back.  It’s then split into two halves for the front.. and then I guess we’ve got to figure out how we get that little lovely curved front bit.. so hmmm.. we’ve got our work cut out.

Another thought – if you’re making this in acrylic or any stretchable yarn, note that this shelled pattern opens up a bit – so after the first few repeats, do check that it’s not blowing out of shape and proportion.

Materials used : Oswal Cashmilon, 4-ply baby fingering yarn,  ~ 150 gms , with a 3.25 mm crochet hook

Size made : 36”
Gauge : 5 dc (across) = 1” x 1 dc rows (high) = 1/2”

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                              sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                     ch : Chain
sp : Space                                                                    sl-st : Slip stitch
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together                        st(s) : Stitch(es)          
yo : Yarn Over                                                            hk : Hook

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Start with a number of fsc , in multiples of 8’s , that will fit neatly around your back – remembering that we’re starting from the bottom and coming up to the shoulders (just so you know ‘which part’ of back we’re talking about now) J

Row 1 : dc in the 1st  fsc  ; *ch 3, sk next 3 fsc , 5 dc in the next fsc ; ch 3, sk next 3 fsc, 2 dc in next fsc* ; rep *to* till last rep ;  ch 3, sk next 3 fsc , 5 dc in the next fsc ; ch 3, sk next 3 fsc, dc in last fsc. Turn

Note : In the following row, instead of the ch 3 and then sl-st bit, you could use a picot.  I tried that, and didn’t see much of a difference as you’re going to use the top of this for the next st anyway.. and thought that the picot is a tad ‘difficult’ for beginners..whereas the rest of the pattern is totally do-able by beginners.. so my choice.. but now you have a choice too. J

Row 2 : dc in the 1st  dc ;
*sk next ch-3 sp , [dc in the next 2 dc , dc in next dc ; ch 1, dc in same dc ; dc in the next 2 dc] ;
(sk nextch-3 sp, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc , ch-3 over same dc 2-tog, and sl-st into top of same dc 2-tog )* ; rep *to* till last rep ;  sk next ch-3 sp , rep [to] once ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in last dc. Turn

Row 3 : dc in the 1st  dc  ; *ch 3, sk next 3 dc , 5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp (on top of the next dc 2-tog) * ; rep *to* till last rep ;  ch 3, sk next 3 dc , 5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc in last dc. Turn

Row 4 : dc in the 1st  dc ;
*sk next ch-3 sp , [dc in the next 2 dc , dc in next dc ; ch 1, dc in same dc ; dc in the next 2 dc] ;
(sk nextch-3 sp, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc , ch-3 over same dc 2-tog, and sl-st into top of same dc 2-tog )* ;
rep *to* till last rep ;  sk next ch-3 sp , rep [to] once ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in last dc. Turn



Rep Rows 3 & 4 till your project reaches the height you want for the back of your bolero.  So let’s get this done, and we’ll catch up with one another in a bit.

Ok.. now that I’ve reached the shoulders coming up from the waist and here’s where I throw you another curve ball.  Now per the diagram right in the first sheet, the designer (follow the arrows to see what I mean) has shown the bolero starting at waist and going straight up to the shoulders and then coolly dividing for the 2 front halves.  Neat??
Well, here’s where I throw the curve ball..
The pattern (shells) is small at base, and then opens on top, right?
So if you continue the pattern, splitting for front, then the pattern in front has the shells coming ‘down’, while they’re going ‘up’ along the back.. and I’m not sure if you want this done – so here’s what I’m going to do..



I’m going to give you two front options, and you choose the one that suits you.
Option A will go with the pattern all the way down, so there is no attachment the shoulders.
Option B means you end off at the shoulders for back, and then start again for the front in two parts and join them up at the shoulders.

OPTION A :
Continue with rep of Rows 3 & 4, but instead of doing the whole row, do only sufficient stitch repeats to fit your shoulder and then turn. 
You continue these Row 3 & 4 repeats till you have come down all the way down the front to the length you need.  Remember that this ‘slender strip’ you’re now working on comprises a little of the back (to give yourself a slight neckline at the back) as well – so it may ‘look’ a little longer.
Please check information on Option B for the increase and decrease rows.

On completing one side, you re-attach your yarn for the second front side and match up to the side already completed.

We’ll then meet up again to complete the border.

OPTION B :
We’ve still not finished completely with our back rectangle, as we’ve got to divide for the neckline and shoulder(s).
So let’s carry on
Once again, you carry on with reps of Rows 3 & 4 but only for the width needed for your shoulders.  You turn and continue on these two rows.. oh about 2 reps (so 4 rows).
Then you can fasten off and re-attach yarn for the other shoulder bit and complete that too.
Once that’s done, you’re finished with the back.

FRONT(s) : Make two

You will start with fsc in the same no. of stitches as needed for the width of your shoulder and rep Rows 1-4 as for back.  Rep Rows 3 & 4 at least three more times.
Now as this is a free-sized pattern, I’m going to give you instructions on how to increase

Next Row  : (Increase row) : ch 6 (equals 1 dc + ch 3), dc in the 3rd ch from hk ; ch 3 , (sk next 3 dc) , 5 dc in next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp (on top of the next dc 2-tog) * ; rep *to* till last rep ;  ch 3, sk next 3 dc , 5 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc in last dc. Turn

Next Row  : Rep Row 4.

Rep Rows 3 & 4 about 5-6 times till you’re about 4 shells from top
(one shell = both Rows 3 & 4)

Your decrease row will be in Row 4, where you have the ch-3 sps that you need to make
Decrease row : So in this row, at the neck edge (not the armhole edge, but the other side, where we’ve increased the sts), you just skip the ch-3 sp ; which means that you go straight from the 5 dc in ch-1 sp to 2 dc in the last dc, and you’ve taken off the increased sts.

Right so once you’re done with both the front halves and the back, go ahead and join the shoulder strips and the sides, leaving your armhole opening.  We’ll now figure out the border, that you can do in one continuous movement around the neckline, down front lapels as well as bottom of your bolero.  You can also do the same border around the arm hole openings.

Border : Re-attach your yarn at the front bottom corner of your lapel on one side. The plan is to go up one side of the lapel, across the back, down the front lapel on the other side and then around the back to reach back to where we started.

Now there is no exact count as to where which stitch is going to go.. so all I’d suggest is you go around with the 1st row of stitches, and then the rest of the border will come on evenly.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st 2 sts, ch 3 , sk sts (ensuring that you’re spacing these sts evenly, this is where I cannot specify how many sts or ch-sps you are skipping, as long as it’s even, you’re border is going to be great) ; sc in the next 2 sts ; *ch 3, sk sts evenly, sc in the next 2 sts* ; rep *to* all around, joining with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Row 2 : sl-st into 1st ch-3 sp, 2 sc in same ch-3 sp , ch 2, sc in same ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next 2 sc, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next 2 sc ; *(sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 2, sc in same ch-3 sp) ; ch 3 , sk next 2 sc, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next 2 sc* ; rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Row 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; sc in same ch-2 sp ; ch 3,  (2 dc next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc) ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, rep (to) once ; * ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, rep (to) once* ; rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Row 4 : sl-st till the 1st dc (i.e through the 1st ch-3 sp) ; [dc in the 1st 3 dc , ch 3, dc in the same 3rd dc and the next 2 dc] ; *sk both ch-3 sps and sc , rep [to] once* ; rep *to* till end. In the last rep, instead of a ch 5, do a ch 2 and dc (so you’re in the middle of that last ch-5 sp)

This is the last row, so all we’re doing is adding some flair.. and that’s with the cute little decorative picot, which you will do in the centre ch of the ch-5 sp ; and is is just a ch 3, sc in the middle of the ch-5 sp.  Right let’s get this bit done.

Last Row : (sc in the ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sc in this same sc ) ; *ch 6, sk next 6 dc, (to) in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* all the way around.  Join with an sl-st to the 1st st.  Fasten off.  Weave in ends. 

Now go ahead and do the same edging around the two armholes as well.

Border detail


Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your cool bolero on and show off.. you deserve to J

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

And here's all the detail that I've worked with and written out for you.. just in case you want a dekho as well.