KATIA OMBRE TRIANGLULAR SCARF
As you know, I was recently gifted this
absolutely superb Katia Jaipur cotton yarn made in Barcelona – a superb
variegated yarn in the softest of shades.
With the first two balls of yarn, I’ve created a top each, and with this
third one in shades of Ombre, I’m choosing to make a triangular scarf.
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Materials used : Today I’ve
used ~ 100 gms of the lovely Katia Jaipur Mercerised cotton yarn with a 2 mm crochet hook
For Indians :
The Katia Jaipur yarn I’ve used is a lot like our Indian Red rose & Anchor knitting cottons
Difficulty level
: Intermediate Skill level
Abbreviations :
sc : Single crochet yo : Yarn Over
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : hook
lp(s) : Loop(s) dc : Double crochet
sl-st : Slip Stitch
sc-blo : Single Crochet Back Loop Only
fsc : Foundation single crochet
hdc : Half Double crochet
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Herringbone Double crochet stitch : Check out this lovely video from Moogly for a visual on this stitch at http://www.mooglyblog.com/herringbone-double-crochet-hbdc/
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Pattern instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog (as well as through the blog) for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
For this
awesome pattern, I was inspired by the Main St Shawl by KT and the Squid.
Please visit this link at http://ktandthesquid.com/2016/01/18/main-st-shawl-free-crochet-pattern-kt-and-the-squid/
for the original pattern (designer photo below).
KT and the Squid's pattern is an irregular triangle, and I
wanted one that was regular – so I just did a minor tweak and this is what I
got I have created.
The herringbone double crochet stitch is worked
a lot like the double crochet stitch – so we do work 3 motions of yarn over
(yo) and pulling through but with our very first yo, we pull through the
stitch (that we are working in) as well as the first loop. This odd pulling through gives the stitch a
diagonal, which gives it the herringbone feature, as one stitch will be leaning
right to left, and as we work the stitch from the back, it will lean left to
right.
Please visit the video link for this stitch (given under Stitches Used) before you start.
Start : with ch 6. Turn.
Row
1 :
herr-dc in
the same st ; ch 1, herr-dc in the 6th
ch from hk.
Turn. (3
herr-dc)
For
convenience, and as suggested in the video, we will start each row with ch 3,
which will be our first stitch. We will
need to work into that top ch (turning chain) of each row, which is what adds
to our difficulty level.
Rows
2 :
ch 3 ;
herr-dc in the next 2 herr-dc sts.
Turn. (3
herr-dc)
Rows
3 :
ch 3 ;
herr-dc in the same 1st st ;
ch 1, herr-dc in the next 2
herr-dc sts ;
ch 1, herr-dc in the same last st.
Turn. (5
herr-dc)
Rows
4 :
ch 3 ; herr-dc
in the same 1st st ; herr-dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
*herr-dc in
the next herr-dc ; herr-dc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* 2
times ;
herr-dc in the last st;
ch 1, herr-dc in the same last st.
Turn. (11
herr-dc)
Rows
5 :
ch 3 ;
herr-dc in the same 1st st ;
*ch 1, sk
next st, herr-dc in the next herr-dc* ;
rep *to*
till end ;
ch 1, herr-dc in the same last st.
Turn.
Rows
6 :
ch 3 ;
herr-dc in the same 1st st ;
*ch 1,
herr-dc in the next herr-dc* ;
rep *to*
till end ;
ch 1, herr-dc in the same last st.
Turn.
Rows
7 :
ch 3 ; herr-dc
in the same 1st st ; herr-dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
*herr-dc
in the next herr-dc ; herr-dc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* 5
times ;
herr-dc in the last st ;
ch 1, herr-dc in the same last st.
Turn.
.. and
this is basically the pattern.
So two
rows with ch-1 sps, increasing one herr-dc st at each end, and one row where
you will work a herr-dc st in each st and ch-sp all the way, increasing a
herr-dc st at each end here as well.
Rep Rows 5
– 7 till you have a triangular scarf of the size you need (or you run out of
yarn ;) ). This pattern has no gauge and size specifications… so just go for
it.. I did and I love what I’ve created.
Now here’s
a quick tweak – if you want the scarf to progress width wise faster than the
length (i.e if you want it to grow wider along the triangle more), then you can
add two increases along the end 2 sts each side (instead of 1). What does this mean? So in our end st, we are
increasing with a (herr-st ; ch 1, herr-st in the same st), so instead of this
one increase, do this same (to) twice along the last 2 herr-sts both ends.
As soon as
you have the width and length and size for your scarf, you could opt to work a
small border along the edge. The
finished scarf looks lovely even without the border – but if you are working that
in, then come along with me and let’s work on this together.
Border
:
For the
border, I’ve been inspired by this chart that I found online. I am going to work this on two sides of my
triangle.
The stitch
count (in case you wish to use this border any place else as well) is in
multiples of 8 (if working in rounds) or 8 + 1 (if working in rows).
In our
case though, as we’re working along an edge, we will start off with a set of
ch-3 sps. I am working along the two
edges that have the ‘standing sts’, so I have decided to use the space
between 2 sts as the place I insert the sc in.
Here’s a
tweak / idea straight off. Each ch-sp
will be used for the pattern, so if you decide that you want a more open
pattern, you can just space your ch-sps accordingly.
Start
:
with an sc
in the 1st st ;
*ch 3, sc in the next st* ;
rep *to* till the centre
apex st (the ‘V’ in the centre) ;
ch 3, and sc in the same centre st ;
then rep *to* all the way to the end.
Now here’s
where this gets a bit tricky.
We are all
at different lengths, so you will need to work the spacing of our next row for
yourself.
The
pattern we are working will be a shell in one ch-3 sp, and 2 sc in the next
ch-3 sp. So I suggest that you start counting
off from the centre ch-3 sp.
Your centre ch-3 sp must have a shell pattern, so start counting from
that point on and see what stitch you need to start with.
The
pattern is pretty simple, so I am sure you will be able to adapt it to suit
your start.
Row
1 : 2 sc in
the 1st ch-3 sp ; 7 sc in the next ch-3 sp ; *2 sc in the next ch-3
sp ; 7 sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; rep *to* all the way till the end. Turn.
Remember for an even finish, ensure
you have the 7 sc in that centre ch-3 sp
Row
2 : sl-st
into the 1st dc ; sc in the same 1st dc ;
*(ch 3,
sk next dc, sc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sc in
the next dc* ;
rep *to* all the way to the end.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
and with that you're done with a really beautiful regular triangular scarf!
I am so thrilled with my creation, that I just must share a few more photos with you.
Photo credit +Achille Perrin
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Here are some of my earlier neckwear creations.
AND for our four legged pals.. some fancy neckwear at
Here are some of my older bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
