BEAUTIFUL CHEVRON-LIKE ULTIMATE INFINITY COWL WITH SLEEVES
This cowl with sleeves is fast becoming my most
famous project. This is now the fifth pattern I’ve designed. As you all know, I
do not like repeating patterns, so I always try to figure a different pattern
for the cowl part. The sleeves for most are similar.
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I was inspired by the Antonia shrug /wrap for
the first project that I made of this type.
I am now using a little bit of a tweak and changing the way I have made
my infinity sleeved cowl.
As I work on this wavy zig-zag pattern, I’ve
written down my notes that I share with you.
Pattern inspiration https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279836471415/
Materials used : Today I’ve used about 200 gms of our lovely 4 ply OswalCashmilon
acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook
Size made : 34” chest
Optional
: a marker.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing
Abbreviations used :
ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)
dc : Double crochet hk : Hook
st(s) : Stitch(es)
sk : Skip sp : space
rep : repeat
fsc : Foundation single crochet
Instructions
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Quick analysis of what
we’re going to do here today. We
start with a row of fsc and then work our way side to side to make a large
rectangle. Now here’s where your creativity comes in. There are several ways you can decide to wrap
this around your body – so the two sides of your wrap will be the length of
your arms from shoulder(s) to wrist(s), and the centre part is what will go
around your chest.
For the centre of the cowl, I’ve used the wavy pattern.
For
the sleeves, I’ve used a different pattern, so if you’re choosing a different
pattern for the sleeves, the come along with me on my creative journey.
Check
this video to see the four ways you can use this superb creation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKNxf3RuaBQ
If you have other ideas on how we can use this, do let me know.. and we’ll add to this treasure.. this absolutely lovely wrap around cowl shrug pattern.
So
calculations : One and a half
times your round chest plus two arm lengths. This is the length of the rectangle
we’ll make.
Width : We will work up and down the fsc we’re making which is the
width of our chest piece, but if you make this part too wide,
then you’re actually increasing the round arm as well – so remember this when
you’re working your calculations.
Now here are our tweaks :
1.
I’m planning on
using the wavy pattern just for the center of the project and using a plainer
stitch for the two arms, so I will be working three pieces in this project –
One chest portion and two sleeve portions
2.
I will work the
three pieces separately and then join them together.
3.
I am not going to
write pattern separately for the chest and the sleeves. I am writing the wavy zig-zag pattern down,
and you could make the whole project in the same pattern.
4.
If you decide to
make the sleeves separately (as I have), you will follow instructions through
to the end and see what I have done.
5.
Finally, I’m going
to add a tightening set of rows around the end of our ‘sleeve’ ends – so you
could actually work whatever width you want, as the sleeves are going to
fit eventually.
So, enough talking.. hooks in
hand.. and let’s go.
Our stitch count is in multiples of 22 +
1.
Start : with fsc in multiples of 22 + 1. Turn.
Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ;
*(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in
the next fsc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
[ch 5, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc] ;
rep (to) 5 times* ;
rep *to* till end.
Turn.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*(skipping the ch-1 sp, dc
in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times ; 12 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep (to) 5
times* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in
the next dc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
[ch 5, dc in the next dc] ;
rep (to) 5 times* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 4 : Rep Row 2.
Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the
next dc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
[ch 1, dc in the next dc] ;
rep (to) 5 times* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till end. Turn.
And just like that we’re done
with this lovely wavy zig-zag pattern. Repeat
Rows 2 to 6 till your project is 1.5 times the round chest measure ; ending
with a Row 5
OR
As I said before, if you decide
to work this pattern through the whole project, then you will work this shelled
pattern for 2 sleeve lengths plus 1.5 times round chest measure.
If you are working this pattern
all through in this wavy pattern, then once done, you will fold your completed
project in half, and join the two sides from each end till the length
needed for the sleeve. The sleeves are
the ends of this project and the centre of this project is the part that wraps
around the chest.
Fasten off and weave in all
ends and you’re done with your lovely wavy / zig zag cowl with sleeves.
IF however, you’re making plain
sleeves as I am, then carry on with the instructions here.
1.
As we’re working a
chest portion with the shelled pattern only, then you will work 1.5 times round
chest measure in repeats of Rows 2 to 6 , ending with Row 5.
2.
If changing yarn
colours, then fasten off Colour 1, and attach whatever colour you intend for
your sleeve here.
3.
We’ve ended with
Row 5, so work sc in the dc and ch-1 sps to add up to the same number of
stitches as you started with. So say
you started with 45 sts, at this end, you will have your dc and ch-4 sps, so
just ensure that you work a total of 45 sts in these ch-sps and dc.
Once you have your sc at this
end, and your fsc at the other end, you are ready to start your sleeves.
Once you’re done with this
section, you will re-attach your sleeve yarn for the other side at one end of
your start fsc row and repeat these sleeve instructions.
SLEEVES :
For this portion there are
several options offered , so major decision time.
Single crochet back loop only (sc-blo) : Here is an easy video tutorial
Round 1 : sc-blo in the 1st sc and in each sc till
end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
sc.
Optional : Place a marker in the sl-st if you decide to reduce
and scale the shape down a bit, as I have.
From here on I worked an sc in
each sc all around, but did not join at the end of each row, so that we
work in continuous rounds without the little join at the end.
Now it does not really matter
if you want to join with a sl-st at the end of each round – I just prefered not
to.
If you do decide to work in rounds without joining, please place a marker in
that 1st sc as we will need that 1st sc a little later in
our pattern.
Note for decrease if working
in a round without joining : At the end of each round one st before the
marker, I have done a hdc 2-tog in back-loop (just to keep the pattern) over
the next 2 sts. This works if you are not joining and are working in
continuous rounds. Do remember though to move your marker each round so
that you will keep the decreases neatly in a row under the armhole.
Note for decrease if not working
in a round and joining with sl-st at each round : At the end of each round two
sts before the marker, I have done a hdc 2-tog in back-loop (just to keep
the pattern) over the next 2 sts. Do remember though to move your marker
each round so that you will keep the decreases neatly in a row under the
armhole.
Yet again, just continue till
you have the shape just right for the arm you are working this project for.
Finally, I worked this repeat
till I had a length about 4” shorter than needed from the shoulder to
wrist. I have decided to work the last
6” in post stitches in such a way that if needed the recipient could
pull it over the palms and have fingerless gloves (of sorts).
The 2” ‘extra’ therefore will
not be an issue (i.e I started this paragraph saying I would repeat till I was
4” short, and then worked 6” in post stitches, so these 2” will be part of the
fingerless gloves)
So if you feel like doing this then, work till you are about
3-4” short of the length needed from shoulder to wrist.
Next Round : sc in the 1st sc and each sc all around, and
join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
From the following round on we will
work in post stitches.
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14
Next Round : fpdc in the 1st sc ; dc in the next sc ;
(fpdc
in the next sc ; dc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) all around, and join with a
sl-st to the 1st sc.
Next Round : fpdc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
(fpdc
in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) all around, and join with a
sl-st to the 1st dc.
Rep the above round for the
final few inches, till your sleeves are of the length you need (i.e either till
wrist or till the end of your thumb - for the fingerless gloves).
Fasten off and weave in
ends. We’ve completed one side of our
sleeves.
Re-attach your yarn on the other side of the shoulder bit (i.e in my case the end of the grey rectangle) for the second sleeve.
Work all the rounds of pattern
for the second sleeve as well.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing :
I’m thrilled at what we’ve made
here today. This is a really
oft-repeated pattern, but with a simple twist and tweak, we’ve created
something different.
Give yourself a big pat on the
back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different
from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it,
I’m sure you’ll agree.
And that’s done.. yet another
project brilliantly executed !
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my earlier neckwear creations.
AND for our four legged pals.. some fancy neckwear at
Here are some of my older bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
