Sweet Nothings Crochet: CIRCULAR MOTIF YOKE

CIRCULAR MOTIF YOKE

I have been really lucky in receiving really lovely gifts of yarn off late and I’ve been enjoying making some absolutely lovely stuff with all this yarn, and if you’ve been following my blogs, you know what I’m talking about. If you’ve just joined me, well then go through my blogs and you’re in for a lovely surprise.

This is one pattern that seems to have foxed me. I am not sure what I want to *do* with it. I thought I’d D.I.Y a t-shirt and I’d make a yoke – first cutting off the top of my t-shirt and then adding this yoke on. As I worked on the pattern, I thought hmmm, this will make a swell full top.

I then worked one row of the motifs and wondered if the spaces in between look better attached or just as simple rows of motifs.. and then I attached two rows to see how *that* looked.. oh gosh, I am so confused.

So here’s what I finally did.. I have written the pattern for a single motif.. and then for a continuous row.. and given you an idea of how to work in sleeves too – so go on ahead and work your creation.

I’ve worked something here that I need to figure out – and I thought that rather than procrastinate in sharing this with you, while I mull over what I am finally going to do with it – I’d share my notes. Hopefully by the time you're done with your project, I'd have figured what to do with my motif rows

So as usual, as I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.

Pattern inspiration https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838662991/

Materials used : Today I’ve used 1 ball of this superb Alize Diva yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook.

For Indians : This yarn is available online in India, (check Facebook stores) so do go ahead and try it. Its superb!

Size made : I’ve made this for a bust size 34”

Skill level : Advanced

This is a truly beautiful motif, and I’ve given instructions for joining it individually or if working in a continuous row. However, this is not an easy pattern (well, the individual motif is, the joining is not) and it is also not a pattern one can do in front of a t.v.

So while I do not want to put you off, fair warning issued

Stitches used : Using U.S terminology

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/ OR

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

Here is a sizing chart for general body sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

or https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/ and

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

Abbreviations used :

ch : Chain sp(s) : Space(s)

dc : Double crochet hk : Hook

st(s) : Stitch(es) sl-st : slip stitch

sk : Skip sp : space

rep : repeat

fsc : Foundation single crochet

Instructions

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.

What I love about these motifs is that they are continuously worked and it’s not like a regular motif where you need to join them one by one. So in my opinion, this is superb. I love the effect motifs give but I hate joining in the ends and weaving it up and all that messy stuff – so this, in my opinion, is the best of all worlds.

Now here’s the zinger. Before you start, just let’s see how we will be making a motif. So there are two ways you can get this pattern done

You can either make individual motifs and then join them all together – OR you can work them as you go along.

The second option requires Advanced Skills, and I will help you read this chart but you will need to work some of it on your own.

So just like that, let’s see how we work a motif.

Instructions for making the circular motif yoke : (Using U.S terminology)

First off, let me say that the pattern we’re looking at has similar motifs, but they are not attached the way we are attaching here. In the pattern chart, you’ll note that they are joined differently, so the edges are half a motif off both ends. As this did not work for the project I needed, I am changing the attachment – so our motifs will look a little spaced as against the chart. That said, you can well work the project and joining any way you wish and get a completely different creation.

CHOICE 1

Here, I am giving you instructions on how to make an individual motif and then you can join them as you go along.

Start : with ch 5. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st ch.

Round 1 : dc in ch-5 sp ;

(ch 1, dc in the same ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) 10 times ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 2 : dc 4-tog in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 10 times till the last dc ; ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc 4-tog.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ; dc 4-tog in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

(ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 10 times till the last dc ; ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc 4-tog.

We’ve completed our first motif. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Make individual motifs and then join them together to make the scarf, top or yoke of your choice.

Remember when you are working the second and every other motif though, to join your motifs as you go along so that at the end, you have a long row of them, and can increase the width / length as you work

So how do you join ? Basically you will work a ch 2, join to the ch-5 sp of the earlier motif , ch 2 and dc 4-tog in the ch-sp of the motif you are working on.

So you will work back and forth between the two motifs that need to be joined.

You will need to keep the two adjacent motifs flat and see which are the sps to be joined. It would help if you could place corresponding colored markers in the adjoining spaces that are to be joined, as these motifs tend to swing when you are working.

May I also suggest (and this applies for all motif joinings in general) to check your work very regularly by placing it down to see that you are joining the motifs correctly and that they are all sitting flat. If they are not sitting flat, you will need to increase the distance between them..

And how do you increase distance between motifs?

So to join two motifs, you have been instructed to do a ch 2, join and then ch 2 (dc 4-tog). So that *join*, that could be a sl-st, a sc, a hdc , a dc or a treble crochet – and depending on how close or far away you need the second motif to be from the first, choose your stitch.

Have fun.. creation and discovery is more than half the fun of making a project.

CHOICE 2

Now in case you are working the pattern in one continuous motif set, then here’s how we do it.

I’m going to keep the same numbering as this is our first motif here as well.

If you have come straight here without reading through all my wordsy explanations above, may I request you to please read the last few lines about joining of motifs and how to keep them distanced apart. The rules of joining stay the same whether you are making individual motifs or this continuous version.

Start : with ch 5. Join with a sl-st to the 1^st ch.

Round 1 : dc in ch-5 sp ;

(ch 1, dc in the same ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) 10 times ;

ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 2 : dc 4-tog in the 1^st ch-sp ;

(ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next ch-sp) ;

rep (to) 10 times till the last ch-sp ;

ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc 4-tog.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp ; dc 4-tog in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

(ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 3 times.

We’ve partly completed our first motif and we will work our next motif, also in part.

Next Start : with ch 21.

Turn and join with a sl-st to the 5^th ch from the start.

Now the second and all other motifs are worked in the same way, but just to differentiate from the 1^st motif, I’ll rename these rounds a bit.

Now with every round, we need to use a few of the chains from that ch-21 we’ve just made. So on that first circle, we’ve used 5 ch, and on this Round 1A, we’ll use 3 ch as the 1^st dc.

*So that 1^st dc in the ch-5 sp, that’s the 1^st 3 chain used

Round 1 A : sl-st in the 3^rd ch ( * ) ;

(ch 1, dc in the ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) 10 times ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

We will use the next 3 ch of that 1^st ch-21 as the 1^st dc for the 1^st dc 4-tog

*¹ For the 1^st dc 4-tog then, we’ll use the next 3 ch, and then ch 2 + 2 dc which = the 1^st dc 4-tog

Round 2 A : dc 4-tog ( *¹ ) in the 1^st ch-sp ;

(ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next ch-sp) ;

rep (to) 10 times till the last ch-sp ; ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc 4-tog.

*² Once again, the 1^st dc 4-tog will use 3 ch + ch 2 + 2 dc = 1^st dc 4-tog.

In our final third round, we need to join this motif to the earlier motif and we will do that in the ch-sp after the 1^st dc 4-tog. So you work that 1^st dc 4-tog in the 1^st ch-sp and then join the two motifs, and then work the next dc 4-tog, thus joining two motifs.

Now while joining, you need to check which ch-sp you are joining in.

Very important there is a front and back to your motifs, and as they’re just held with the ch-5 sps, they swing – so keeping first motif facing front, join in the 1^st ch-sp.

Round 3 A : sk the next 2 ch and sl-st into the 1^st ch-sp ;

dc 4-tog ( *² ) in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;

ch 2, join this motif with the earlier motif in the 1^st ch-sp ;

ch 2, dc 4-tog in the next ch-3 sp of this motif ;

(ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 4 times.

So a total of seven dc 4-tog made

We’ve completed our next motif – in part.

These repeats add to the width of your work. To continue increasing your width, you will repeat Next Start row ch-21 all the way through to Round 3A for the next motifs.

So let’s now assume you have as many motifs as you would need for the width of your work.

After you finish the last motif, you will have this one long set of motifs attached together in a straight line.

So we need to now complete these motifs, as in each motif, on that last round, we’ve only done seven dc 4-togs, right?

Our next row is the same pattern as Round 3A , but basically we’ll go around finishing off the remaining dc 4-togs (obviously you got that bit) but as we’re doing this, we will also ensure that we join them with the ch-5 sps that are between two motifs. So in each of those ch-5 sps, (after we complete the dc 4-togs in one motif and are moving onto the next motif), you will do a ch 2, join with the ch-5 sp, ch 2 and dc 4-tog in the 1^st ch-sp of the next motif.

So we go all around, completing all 12 of the dc 4-tog, ensuring you join them at the ch-5 sps (that connect two individual motifs) all the way to the end, and you have a completely finished long row of motifs.

This long row you’ve just created, is the width of your work.

Now comes the second part… to increase the length of your work.

To increase the length of your work, you will work another row of motifs like we’ve just done, and then you will need to join the earlier row of motifs to this one. This can only be done after you have done a second row of motifs, and are at the last row where you will be completing the second side of five dc 5-tog etc.

For the second row of motifs, and each row thereafter to increase the length of your work, these are the points you will need to join at :

1. You are already joining each motif at the ch-5 sp as indicated before

2. You have ten free ch-5 sps on each motif that need to be joined.

3. Align these ch-sps and place similar colored markers such that you are able to join this row (that you are working on) with the previous row, in exactly the same space. i.e You will join Row 2 motif to Row 1 motif in both the first ch-5 sp, using a ch 2, dc join to the next motif ; ch 2, dc 4-tog in the earlier motif ; OR using a ch 2, hdc join to the next motif ; ch 2, dc 4-tog in the earlier motif ; OR using a ch 2, sc join to the next motif ; ch 2, dc 4-tog in the earlier motif ; depending on whether the ch-sp is at the end (then use a trc or a dc) or at the centre (use a hdc, sc or sl-st). This will then ensure that the second set of motifs is held the same distance away, and also stays flat.

This joining of motifs is tricky and this is what makes it an Advanced Skill project.

Once you have the second row of motifs joined to the first row, you will work on the third row of motifs, joining each row and increasing the length of your work.

Now if you are working on a scarf or wrap, you will just go ahead and join each row to the next.

If however, you want to work on a yoke, then it’s a little trickier and here are the hints for what you could do.

1. As I always say, please keep a well-fitting garment (for the person this project is intended) at hand and use that as a template for this yoke / top creation

2. If making a yoke or top, I would suggest that you keep it straight at the armhole, so just work in a rectangle to the shoulders and do not do any shaping. The circular ends will give a neat shape anyway

3. If you wish to have a neckline for your garment, then you will work say 2 motifs on each side, leaving the centre bit without motifs, and thus creating a shoulder. The unworked bit will give you an automatic neckline

4. If you want a boat-neck neckline (oops.. neck & neckline J ), then I’d suggest you just work till the shoulders, and on the following row, just do not join the centre motifs that will then automatically become an opening and a neckline. Please refer to my recent pattern notes http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2016/05/yet-another-lovely-shelled-crop-top.html for an idea of how to get this done. Do note though that the shelled crop top is a completely different construction – and I draw your attention to it only to show you how to get that opening for the neckline

5. If you want sleeves, I guess you could finish the front and back, with the neckline, and then attach the sides to leave the armhole opening, and then continue adding the rows of motifs onto the sleeves as well. I have not done this, but just looking at these beautiful motifs, I think this may work too. IF you do make this, do remember to tag me – all your work, but hey, I did think it up, so do credit me for it. Thanks

So this basically is the motif top or yoke. Each little change will make it a totally different piece. And can you believe it all started with that one small three round motif. Amazing, isn’t it.

Right then, go ahead.. tweak , create, and remember I need to be tagged and credited. Thanks.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html