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Sunday, 5 June 2016

CIRCULAR MOTIF YOKE

CIRCULAR MOTIF YOKE

I have been really lucky in receiving really lovely gifts of yarn off late and I’ve been enjoying making some absolutely lovely stuff with all this yarn, and if you’ve been following my blogs, you know what I’m talking about. If you’ve just joined me, well then go through my blogs and you’re in for a lovely surprise.

This is one pattern that seems to have foxed me.  I am not sure what I want to *do* with it.  I thought I’d D.I.Y a t-shirt and I’d make a yoke – first cutting off the top of my t-shirt and then adding this yoke on.  As I worked on the pattern, I thought hmmm, this will make a swell full top.  
I then worked one row of the motifs and wondered if the spaces in between look better attached or just as simple rows of motifs.. and then I attached two rows to see how *that* looked.. oh gosh, I am so confused.

So here’s what I finally did.. I have written the pattern for a single motif.. and then for a continuous row.. and given you an idea of how to work in sleeves too – so go on ahead and work your creation.

I’ve worked something here that I need to figure out – and I thought that rather than procrastinate in sharing this with you, while I mull over what I am finally going to do with it – I’d share my notes. Hopefully by the time you're done with your project, I'd have figured what to do with my motif rows J

So as usual, as I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.




Materials used : Today I’ve used 1 ball of this superb Alize Diva yarn,  with a 3 mm crochet hook.
For Indians : This yarn is available online in India, (check Facebook stores) so do go ahead and try it. Its superb! 


 Size made : I’ve made this for a bust size 34”

 Skill level : Advanced
This is a truly beautiful motif, and I’ve given instructions for joining it individually or if working in a continuous row.  However, this is not an easy pattern (well, the individual motif is, the joining is not) and it is also not a pattern one can do in front of a t.v.
So while I do not want to put you off, fair warning issued J

Abbreviations used :  (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                   dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                      ch-sp(s) : chain space(s)
sp(s) : space(s)                                                          rep : Repeat
yo : Yarn over                                                           sk : Skip
lp : Loop                                                                       hk : Hook


Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 4 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 4-tog made.

How to join : So the regular methods used to join granny squares works for joining of the sides and shoulders of our project as well.  Here are two methods.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.
What I love about these motifs is that they are continuously worked and it’s not like a regular motif where you need to join them one by one.  So in my opinion, this is superb. I love the effect motifs give but I hate joining in the ends and weaving it up and all that messy stuff – so this, in my opinion, is the best of all worlds.

Now here’s the zinger. Before you start, just let’s see how we will be making a motif.  So there are two ways you can get this pattern done 

You can either make individual motifs and then join them all together – OR you can work them as you go along.



The second option requires Advanced Skills, and I will help you read this chart but you will need to work some of it on your own.

So just like that, let’s see how we work a motif.

Instructions for making the circular motif yoke : (Using U.S terminology)


First off, let me say that the pattern we’re looking at has similar motifs, but they are not attached the way we are attaching here.  In the pattern chart, you’ll note that they are joined differently, so the edges are half a motif off both ends.  As this did not work for the project I needed, I am changing the attachment – so our motifs will look a little spaced as against the chart.  That said, you can well work the project and joining any way you wish and get a completely different creation.

CHOICE 1

Here, I am giving you instructions on how to make an individual motif and then you can join them as you go along.


Start : with ch 5.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st ch.

Round 1 : dc in ch-5 sp ;
(ch 1, dc in the same ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) 10 times ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 2 : dc 4-tog in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 10 times till the last dc ; ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc 4-tog.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; dc 4-tog in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
(ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 10 times till the last dc ; ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc 4-tog.

We’ve completed our first motif.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Make individual motifs and then join them together to make the scarf, top or yoke of your choice.

Remember when you are working the second and every other motif though, to join your motifs as you go along so that at the end, you have a long row of them, and can increase the width / length as you work

So how do you join ? Basically you will work a ch 2, join to the ch-5 sp of the earlier motif , ch 2 and dc 4-tog in the ch-sp of the motif you are working on.
So you will work back and forth between the two motifs that need to be joined.


You will need to keep the two adjacent motifs flat and see which are the sps to be joined. It would help if you could place corresponding colored markers in the adjoining spaces that are to be joined, as these motifs tend to swing when you are working.
May I also suggest (and this applies for all motif joinings in general) to check your work very regularly by placing it down to see that you are joining the motifs correctly and that they are all sitting flat.  If they are not sitting flat, you will need to increase the distance between them..

And how do you increase distance between motifs?
So to join two motifs, you have been instructed to do a ch 2, join and then ch 2 (dc 4-tog). So that *join*, that could be a sl-st, a sc, a hdc , a dc or a treble crochet – and depending on how close or far away you need the second motif to be from the first, choose your stitch.

Have fun.. creation and discovery is more than half the fun of making a project.


CHOICE 2


Now in case you are working the pattern in one continuous motif set, then here’s how we do it.

I’m going to keep the same numbering as this is our first motif here as well.

If you have come straight here without reading through all my wordsy explanations above, may I request you to please read the last few lines about joining of motifs and how to keep them distanced apart.  The rules of joining stay the same whether you are making individual motifs or this continuous version.


Start : with ch 5.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st ch.

Round 1 : dc in ch-5 sp ;
(ch 1, dc in the same ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) 10 times ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 2 : dc 4-tog in the 1st ch-sp ;
(ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next ch-sp) ;
rep (to) 10 times till the last ch-sp ; ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc 4-tog.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; dc 4-tog in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
(ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 3 times.

We’ve partly completed our first motif and we will work our next motif, also in part.

Next Start : with ch 21.
Turn and join with a sl-st to the 5th ch from the start.

Now the second and all other motifs are worked in the same way, but just to differentiate from the 1st motif, I’ll rename these rounds a bit.

Now with every round, we need to use a few of the chains from that ch-21 we’ve just made. So on that first circle, we’ve used 5 ch, and on this Round 1A, we’ll use 3 ch as the 1st dc.
*So that 1st dc in the ch-5 sp, that’s the 1st 3 chain used

Round 1 A : sl-st in the 3rd ch ( * ) ;
(ch 1, dc in the ch-5 sp) ;
rep (to) 10 times ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

We will use the next 3 ch of that 1st ch-21 as the 1st dc for the 1st dc 4-tog
*1 For the 1st dc 4-tog then, we’ll use the next 3 ch, and then ch 2 + 2 dc which = the 1st dc 4-tog

Round 2 A : dc 4-tog ( *1  ) in the 1st ch-sp ;
(ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next ch-sp) ;
rep (to) 10 times till the last ch-sp ; ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc 4-tog.

*2 Once again, the 1st dc 4-tog will use 3 ch + ch 2 + 2 dc = 1st dc 4-tog.

In our final third round, we need to join this motif to the earlier motif and we will do that in the ch-sp after the 1st dc 4-tog. So you work that 1st dc 4-tog in the 1st ch-sp and then join the two motifs, and then work the next dc 4-tog, thus joining two motifs.
Now while joining, you need to check which ch-sp you are joining in.
Very important there is a front and back to your motifs, and as they’re just held with the ch-5 sps, they swing – so keeping first motif facing front, join in the 1st ch-sp.

Round 3 A : sk the next 2 ch and sl-st into the 1st ch-sp ; dc 4-tog ( *2  ) in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, join this motif with the earlier motif in the 1st ch-sp ; ch 2, dc 4-tog in the next ch-3 sp of this motif ; (ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) 4 times.
So a total of seven dc 4-tog made

We’ve completed our next motif – in part.

These repeats add to the width of your work. To continue increasing your width, you will repeat Next Start row ch-21 all the way through to Round 3A for the next motifs.

So let’s now assume you have as many motifs as you would need for the width of your work. 

After you finish the last motif, you will have this one long set of motifs attached together in a straight line.

So we need to now complete these motifs, as in each motif, on that last round, we’ve only done seven dc 4-togs, right?

Our next row is the same pattern as Round 3A , but basically we’ll go around finishing off the remaining dc 4-togs (obviously you got that bit) but as we’re doing this, we will also ensure that we join them with the ch-5 sps that are between two motifs.  So in each of those ch-5 sps, (after we complete the dc 4-togs in one motif and are moving onto the next motif), you will do a ch 2, join with the ch-5 sp, ch 2 and dc 4-tog in the 1st ch-sp of the next motif.

So we go all around, completing all 12 of the dc 4-tog, ensuring you join them at the ch-5 sps (that connect two individual motifs) all the way to the end, and you have a completely finished long row of motifs.

This long row you’ve just created, is the width of your work.
Now comes the second part… to increase the length of your work.

To increase the length of your work, you will work another row of motifs like we’ve just done, and then you will need to join the earlier row of motifs to this one. This can only be done after you have done a second row of motifs, and are at the last row where you will be completing the second side of five dc 5-tog etc.

For the second row of motifs, and each row thereafter to increase the length of your work, these are the points you will need to join at :
1.       You are already joining each motif at the ch-5 sp as indicated before
2.      You have ten free ch-5 sps on each motif that need to be joined.
3.      Align these ch-sps and place similar colored markers such that you are able to join this row (that you are working on) with the previous row, in exactly the same space.  i.e You will join Row 2 motif to Row 1 motif in both the first ch-5 sp, using a ch 2, dc join to the next motif ; ch 2, dc 4-tog in the earlier motif ; OR   using a ch 2, hdc join to the next motif ; ch 2, dc 4-tog in the earlier motif ; OR   using a ch 2, sc join to the next motif ; ch 2, dc 4-tog in the earlier motif ; depending on whether the ch-sp is at the end (then use a trc or a dc) or at the centre (use a hdc, sc or sl-st).  This will then ensure that the second set of motifs is held the same distance away, and also stays flat.

This joining of motifs is tricky and this is what makes it an Advanced Skill project.

Once you have the second row of motifs joined to the first row, you will work on the third row of motifs, joining each row and increasing the length of your work.

Now if you are working on a scarf or wrap, you will just go ahead and join each row to the next.

If however, you want to work on a yoke, then it’s a little trickier and here are the hints for what you could do.

1.       As I always say, please keep a well-fitting garment (for the person this project is intended) at hand and use that as a template for this yoke / top creation
2.      If making a yoke or top, I would suggest that you keep it straight at the armhole, so just work in a rectangle to the shoulders and do not do any shaping.  The circular ends will give a neat shape anyway
3.      If you wish to have a neckline for your garment, then you will work say 2 motifs on each side, leaving the centre bit without motifs, and thus creating a shoulder.  The unworked bit will give you an automatic neckline
4.      If you want a boat-neck neckline (oops.. neck & neckline J ), then I’d suggest you just work till the shoulders, and on the following row, just do not join the centre motifs that will then automatically become an opening and a neckline. Please refer to my recent pattern notes http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2016/05/yet-another-lovely-shelled-crop-top.html for an idea of how to get this done. Do note though that the shelled crop top is a completely different construction – and I draw your attention to it only to show you how to get that opening for the neckline
5.      If you want sleeves, I guess you could finish the front and back, with the neckline, and then attach the sides to leave the armhole opening, and then continue adding the rows of motifs onto the sleeves as well.  I have not done this, but just looking at these beautiful motifs, I think this may work too.  IF you do make this, do remember to tag me – all your work, but hey, I did think it up, so do credit me for it.  Thanks J

So this basically is the motif top or yoke.  Each little change will make it a totally different piece.  And can you believe it all started with that one small three round motif.  Amazing, isn’t it.

Right then, go ahead.. tweak , create, and remember I need to be tagged and credited. Thanks.
 
Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  I do realize that I have asked for credit several times, but it hurts when you think so much through, write it all down in so much detail, and then see someone who has made it (all their own hard work and they truly do deserve the credit, of course), but do not share this free pattern – so just thought I’d *really* mention it. J
Thanks for understanding

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few other yokes made, so check these out














I have a few other tops made, and here are the convenient links for you