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Friday, 17 June 2016

SUPERB CHEVRON YOKE OR TOP


SUPERB CHEVRON YOKE OR TOP

I am on a roll, I guess. I started on one D.I.Y yoke and have had such fun with it that I just had to try another one..and then another .. So yet another plain t-shirt that is getting D.I.Y-it a bit.  I found this really interesting chevron pattern, and I plan on making this as a yoke.

Here’s a tweak (or an idea?).  I just have sufficient yarn for a yoke, so that’s what I’m making – but as I reached the end of my creation, I found that this would make a really lovely top too.  So, if you’re ok with a straight finish to the armholes, then hey .. go ahead and make this into a top.  I think this will make an absolutely awesome top..chevrons always do.

For the sleeves then, you could just go around and add a row of shells or “V’-sts neatly spaced and that’d look super – as well being a neat finish to the armholes.  Experiment and be different J

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838785629/



Materials used : Today I’ve used one skein of this really lovely Alize Bodrum knitting bamboo yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook.


For Indians : You could use our Indian Anchor, Red rose or Shilpa knitting cotton.
Alize Bodrum available at Allkraftz India , or check PAC's Yarn Craft Store online via Facebook.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced.

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fdc : Foundation double crochet                                dc : Double crochet
ch(s) : chain(s                                                               ch-sp : chain space
sp(s) : space(s)                                                             rep : Repeat
hk : hook                                                                        yo : Yarn over
sk : Skip                                                                          lp(s) : Loop(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)


Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.


Pattern instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

This is a straight simple pattern.  We work one side of the yoke at a time.  The pattern is the same for both front and back. The only difference (if you so desire) is the depth of the neckline.

Our first row is worked for half the round chest / bust measure.

Now you can be adventurous and make a top with this pattern, and if you are doing that, then the first row you will work is half the round waist measure (or half the round measure of the chest /bust, whichever is the larger round measure).

Before we head off on our journey though, let me give you a visual of our pattern.  A Chevron is an arrow-like or wavy pattern.  So we need to “pull” and “push” or straight row out to give it this wave effect.  For that, in certain sections, we will do a dc 3-tog which will “pull” it up and then work a 3 dc that will “push” or stretch it out again.

In this particular pattern, we are working with ch-1 sps, which adds a small level of complexity to the already not-that-easy Chevron pattern, so you need to pay attention to my copious notes and try to follow along with the chart provided too.

Excited ? Let’s start.

Our pattern repeat is 16.



Start : with fsc in multiples of 16 for the half the round chest / bust measurement.

a)    Through this pattern, we use a special dc 3-togwhich will be our dc 3-tog worked over 5 sts.
A dc 3-tog is usually worked over 3 dcs or sts, one after another. In this special dc 3-tog though, we will sk a st in between.
So for our special dc 3-tog, we work a dc in the 1st leg of the dc 3-tog in the 1st dc ; sk the next st and work the 2nd leg of the dc 3-tog in the next dc ; sk the next st and then work the 3rd leg of the dc 3-tog in the next dc.
So in effect, our dc 3-tog is worked over five stitches, skipping 2 sts in between


b)    We also have a “V”-st here, which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.



Row 1 : 3 dc in the 1st fsc ; 
(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc) ; 
rep (to) once ;
[ch 1, sk next fsc , Special dc-3 tog over the next 5 fsc] ;
*rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, sk next fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till the last fsc ; 
ch 1 and 3 dc in that last fsc.  Turn.


A)    From the following row onwards, there is a small change in the Special dc 3-tog.
We will still be working the special dc 3-tog over the next five stitches , but with a small difference.
We work a dc in the 1st leg of the dc 3-tog in the 1st dc ; work the 2nd leg of the dc 3-tog over the next dc 3-tog ; and then work the 3rd leg of the dc 3-tog in the next dc. We skip the two ch-1 sps in between the dc and the dc 3-tog, so we’re still working over 5 sts.
This is the Special dc 3-tog we will use from Row 2 all the way to the end.


B)    When working our “V”-sts, we will work all our “V”-sts in the earlier “V”-st.  Now, our “V”-st is made of 4 dc and one ch-sp, correct? So not only will we be using that ch-1 sp for the following “V”-sts, but we will also use that 1st dcof this “V”-st for our pattern repeat.  So we will have a dc on that 1st dc, a “V”-st in the ch-1 sp of the “V”-st and skipping the next dc, a dc in that last dc of the “V”-st.  Got it?




Do try and follow the chart to see exactly what I mean.

Row 2 : 3 dc in the 1stdc ; skipping next dc , (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
[ch 1, Special dc-3 tog over the next dc, dc 3-tog and the next dc, skipping two ch-1 sps] ; 
*rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep (to) 2 times ; 
rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till the last dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, 3 dc in that last dc.  Turn.


We’re working a straight armhole and will not be decreasing for the armhole.



Neckline decrease ideas
Now it really doesn’t matter which row you end at, as the pattern is basically the same.  So here’s what I’ve done. 

I worked the pattern, till the 1st “V”-st pattern repeat on that last row working from the armhole to the neckline edge ; ending with a dc in the dc of the same “V”-st. 

Next Row : (Neckline edge) : dc in the 1st dc, “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st and continue in pattern to the end.

Next Row : (Armhole edge) : Work pattern from this edge all the way from armhole edge to neckline edge in pattern as before, dc in the last dc.

Rep pattern repeats of the above two rows from the Neckline edge to the Armhole edge and back, till you reach the shoulder level; ending on the neckline edge for the last row (i.e starting with a  repeat that goes from the armhole to the neckline edge ; add chain*

* Now here’s where you need to do a quick calculation.  We have worked one pattern repeat for the shoulder.  Each pattern repeat is …? That’s right 16 sts.  So, take off the last pattern repeat for the 2nd shoulder, and count the pattern repeats in between shoulders.

Each pattern repeat is 16 sts, so add chain*in multiples of 16 MINUS 3at the end of that last row. 
In all calculations, we usually ADD stitches.  Note here that I’ve said you MINUS.  So its basically then multiples of 16 + 13… whichever makes easier sense to you.  Fasten off.

These extra sts in multiples of 16- 3, will make up for the Chevron pattern that we have skipped when making the shoulder straps.  Got it?

Great. Now go across to make the other shoulder strap.

Re-attach yarn at the 1st “V”-st away from the armhole  edge. (Take a quick look and see what you’ve done for the first side, and see which “V”-st I’m talking about).  Now repeat from the pattern for the second shoulder and work the pattern all the way to the shoulder once again.
On the last row, just before you end, attach that chain that you have added earlier to the last st with a sl-st.

Great.. So we have now finished both our shoulder straps, and have attached the chain to make the back portion. 

Quick reminder here : When we worked our shoulder straps, we worked a dc in the last dc of the “V”-st.  This dc is not part of the original pattern, so remember to skip it when you are working the pattern for the back. 

The dcs that you will use will be the 1st and 4th dcs of the “V”-st as before.



Back yoke
Keeping the right side of your work facing you, re-attach your yarn on the 1st dc.

The pattern does not change, but for the 1st row, we will need to work partly in pattern, and partly on the newly added chains.

As I will need to use the limited paranthesis / bracket symbols we have, I am going to use two colours to identify the shoulder strap section as different from the newly added section

Back Row 1 : 3 dc in the 1stdc ; skipping next dc , (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; 
rep (to) once ;
[ch 1, Special dc-3 tog over the next dc, dc 3-tog and next dc, skipping two ch-1 sps] ;
rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ;
skipping the next dc ,
{ ch 1, dc in the next ch ; [ch 1, sk next fsc , Special dc-3 tog over the next 5 fsc] ;
(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc) ; rep (to) once ;
ch 1, sk next fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc ; rep (to) once } ;
rep {to} till the “V”-st of the next shoulder strap ;
skipping the next dc , ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) once ;
[ch 1, Special dc-3 tog over the next dc, dc 3-tog and next dc, skipping two ch-1 sps] ;
rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, 3 dc in the last dc. Turn

Great job ! Just like that we’ve incorporated the added chains and got a full pattern again.
Please put your work down and double check that the number of pattern repeats you have just now is the same as the pattern repeats for the front section you’ve made earlier.  Else, this is the time to check where your calculations went wrong and rectify it.

Back Row 2: 3 dc in the 1stdc ; skipping next dc, (ch 1,dc in the next dc) ; 
rep (to) once ;
[ch 1, Special dc-3 tog over the next 3 dc, skipping two ch-1 sps] ;
*rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, 3 dc in that last dc.  Turn.

Rep Back Row 2 till you have a yoke of the length you desire.

And can you believe how beautiful this yoke is ! Or if you have decided to make this a full top, then that’s even more beautiful, isn’t it?
  
You can give yourself a huge pat in the back, as though this is a really easy pattern, this one has been a real fun one – and you’ve figured it out too. So yaay !! J

Finishing :
Our finishing here involves attaching the shoulders and the sides as well, if needed.  Then you need to weave in and tidy up of all those loose ends. Ensure you glue it all down, as the worst thing is to have a little bit of thread peeping through where its not supposed to be and ruining all your hard work!

If you’re working a yoke, then attach the yoke to the t-shirt, and you could then cut away the t-shirt bits from inside of the yoke, so that you can show some skin and of course your lovely crochet work out too. J

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

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 Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few yokes already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J
















I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J