Sweet Nothings Crochet: SUPERB CHEVRON YOKE OR TOP

SUPERB CHEVRON YOKE OR TOP

I am on a roll, I guess. I started on one D.I.Y yoke and have had such fun with it that I just had to try another one..and then another .. So yet another plain t-shirt that is getting D.I.Y-it a bit. I found this really interesting chevron pattern, and I plan on making this as a yoke.

Thank you for joining me.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram. Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog

Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.

Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation. Cheers. Enjoy

To purchase this or similar yarn online, click on the link at the top right of this blog that reads click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well. This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.

Here’s a tweak (or an idea?). I just have sufficient yarn for a yoke, so that’s what I’m making – but as I reached the end of my creation, I found that this would make a really lovely top too. So, if you’re ok with a straight finish to the armholes, then hey .. go ahead and make this into a top. I think this will make an absolutely awesome top..chevrons always do.

For the sleeves then, you could just go around and add a row of shells or “V’-sts neatly spaced and that’d look super – as well being a neat finish to the armholes. Experiment and be different

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838785629/

Materials used : Today I’ve used one skein of this really lovely Alize Bodrum knitting bamboo yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook.

For Indians : You could use our Indian Anchor, Red rose or Shilpa knitting cotton.
Alize Bodrum available at Allkraftz India , or check PAC's Yarn Craft Store online via Facebook.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

This is a straight simple pattern.

We work one side of the yoke at a time. The pattern is the same for both front and back. The only difference (if you so desire) is the depth of the neckline.

Our first row is worked for half the round chest / bust measure.

Now you can be adventurous and make a top with this pattern, and if you are doing that, then the first row you will work is half the round waist measure (or half the round measure of the chest /bust, whichever is the larger round measure).

Before we head off on our journey though, let me give you a visual of our pattern. A Chevron is an arrow-like or wavy pattern. So we need to “pull” and “push” or straight row out to give it this wave effect. For that, in certain sections, we will do a dc 3-tog which will “pull” it up and then work a 3 dc that will “push” or stretch it out again.

In this particular pattern, we are working with ch-1 sps, which adds a small level of complexity to the already not-that-easy Chevron pattern, so you need to pay attention to my copious notes and try to follow along with the chart provided too.

Excited ? Let’s start.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 16.

Start : with fsc in multiples of 16 for the half the round chest / bust measurement.

a) Through this pattern, we use a special dc 3-tog which will be our dc 3-tog worked over 5 sts.

A dc 3-tog is usually worked over 3 dcs or sts, one after another. In this special dc 3-tog though, we will sk a st in between.

So for our special dc 3-tog, we work a dc in the 1^st leg of the dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc ; sk the next st and work the 2^nd leg of the dc 3-tog in the next dc ; sk the next st and then work the 3^rd leg of the dc 3-tog in the next dc.

So in effect, our dc 3-tog is worked over five stitches, skipping 2 sts in between

Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

b) We also have a “V”-st here, which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Row 1 : 3 dc in the 1^st fsc ;

(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 1, sk next fsc , Special dc-3 tog over the next 5 fsc] ;

*rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, sk next fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc ;

rep (to) 2 times ; rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till the last fsc ;

ch 1 and 3 dc in that last fsc. Turn.

A) From the following row onwards, there is a small change in the Special dc 3-tog.

We will still be working the special dc 3-tog over the next five stitches , but with a small difference.

We work a dc in the 1^st leg of the dc 3-tog in the 1^st dc ; work the 2^nd leg of the dc 3-tog over the next dc 3-tog ; and then work the 3^rd leg of the dc 3-tog in the next dc. We skip the two ch-1 sps in between the dc and the dc 3-tog, so we’re still working over 5 sts.

This is the Special dc 3-tog we will use from Row 2 all the way to the end.

B) When working our “V”-sts, we will work all our “V”-sts in the earlier “V”-st. Now, our “V”-st is made of 4 dc and one ch-sp, correct? So not only will we be using that ch-1 sp for the following “V”-sts, but we will also use that 1^st dcof this “V”-st for our pattern repeat. So we will have a dc on that 1^st dc, a “V”-st in the ch-1 sp of the “V”-st and skipping the next dc, a dc in that last dc of the “V”-st. Got it?

Do try and follow the chart to see exactly what I mean.

Row 2 : 3 dc in the 1^stdc ; skipping next dc , (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 1, Special dc-3 tog over the next dc, dc 3-tog and the next dc, skipping two ch-1 sps] ;

*rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep (to) 2 times ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till the last dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, 3 dc in that last dc. Turn.

We’re working a straight armhole and will not be decreasing for the armhole.

Neckline decrease ideas

Now it really doesn’t matter which row you end at, as the pattern is basically the same. So here’s what I’ve done.

I worked the pattern, till the 1^st “V”-st pattern repeat on that last row working from the armhole to the neckline edge ; ending with a dc in the dc of the same “V”-st.

Next Row : (Neckline edge) : dc in the 1^st dc, “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st and continue in pattern to the end.

Next Row : (Armhole edge) : Work pattern from this edge all the way from armhole edge to neckline edge in pattern as before, dc in the last dc.

Rep pattern repeats of the above two rows from the Neckline edge to the Armhole edge and back, till you reach the shoulder level; ending on the neckline edge for the last row (i.e starting with a repeat that goes from the armhole to the neckline edge ; add chain*

* Now here’s where you need to do a quick calculation. We have worked one pattern repeat for the shoulder. Each pattern repeat is …? That’s right 16 sts. So, take off the last pattern repeat for the 2^nd shoulder, and count the pattern repeats in between shoulders.

Each pattern repeat is 16 sts, so add chain* in multiples of 16 MINUS 3 at the end of that last row.

In all calculations, we usually ADD stitches.

Note here that I’ve said you MINUS.

So its basically then multiples of 16 + 13… whichever makes easier sense to you. Fasten off.

These extra sts in multiples of 16 - 3, will make up for the Chevron pattern that we have skipped when making the shoulder straps. Got it?

Great. Now go across to make the other shoulder strap.

Re-attach yarn at the 1^st “V”-st away from the armhole edge. (Take a quick look and see what you’ve done for the first side, and see which “V”-st I’m talking about). Now repeat from the pattern for the second shoulder and work the pattern all the way to the shoulder once again.

On the last row, just before you end, attach that chain that you have added earlier to the last st with a sl-st.

Great.. So we have now finished both our shoulder straps, and have attached the chain to make the back portion.

Quick reminder here : When we worked our shoulder straps, we worked a dc in the last dc of the “V”-st. This dc is not part of the original pattern, so remember to skip it when you are working the pattern for the back.

The dcs that you will use will be the 1^st and 4^th dcs of the “V”-st as before.

Back yoke

Keeping the right side of your work facing you, re-attach your yarn on the 1^st dc.

The pattern does not change, but for the 1^st row, we will need to work partly in pattern, and partly on the newly added chains.

As I will need to use the limited paranthesis / bracket symbols we have, I am going to use two colours to identify the shoulder strap section as different from the newly added section

Back Row 1 : 3 dc in the 1^stdc ; skipping next dc , (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 1, Special dc-3 tog over the next dc, dc 3-tog and next dc, skipping two ch-1 sps] ;

rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ;

skipping the next dc ,

{ ch 1, dc in the next ch ; [ch 1, sk next fsc , Special dc-3 tog over the next 5 fsc] ;

(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next fsc) ; rep (to) once ;

ch 1, sk next fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc ; rep (to) once } ;

rep {to} till the “V”-st of the next shoulder strap ;

skipping the next dc , ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 1, Special dc-3 tog over the next dc, dc 3-tog and next dc, skipping two ch-1 sps] ;

rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, 3 dc in the last dc. Turn

Great job ! Just like that we’ve incorporated the added chains and got a full pattern again.

Please put your work down and double check that the number of pattern repeats you have just now is the same as the pattern repeats for the front section you’ve made earlier. Else, this is the time to check where your calculations went wrong and rectify it.

Back Row 2: 3 dc in the 1^stdc ; skipping next dc, (ch 1,dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) once ;

[ch 1, Special dc-3 tog over the next 3 dc, skipping two ch-1 sps] ;

*rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

rep (to) 2 times ; rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till the last dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, 3 dc in that last dc. Turn.

Rep Back Row 2 till you have a yoke of the length you desire.

And can you believe how beautiful this yoke is ! Or if you have decided to make this a full top, then that’s even more beautiful, isn’t it?

You can give yourself a huge pat in the back, as though this is a really easy pattern, this one has been a real fun one – and you’ve figured it out too. So yaay !! J

Finishing :

Our finishing here involves attaching the shoulders and the sides as well, if needed. Then you need to weave in and tidy up of all those loose ends. Ensure you glue it all down, as the worst thing is to have a little bit of thread peeping through where its not supposed to be and ruining all your hard work!

If you’re working a yoke, then attach the yoke to the t-shirt, and you could then cut away the t-shirt bits from inside of the yoke, so that you can show some skin and of course your lovely crochet work out too.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/

OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/

Join me on YouTube at http://youtube.com/shyamanivas

And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas

Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/

Do also visit me at http://www.craftsy.com/user/2573073/pattern-store?_ct=cx-buvjdql&_ctp=my-pattern-store,manage

Have a great day and see you soon.

Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html