MARY’S PONCHO / WRAP
I was gifted this really lovely baby soft
acrylic yarn and I decided to make something for my beautiful for my friend. I was looking for something just right.. and
Providence stepped in .. this was shared on Facebook.
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The original pattern is a knitting pattern
– so I thought I'd write a pattern out for it with that knitting chart. As soon as I made it, I thankfully showed it to a friend, who said she knew there was a crochet version too.. and there is one.
I'd written my notes down anyway, so I thought I'd share them.. but PLEASE check the ORIGINAL PATTERN links below.
Pattern inspiration https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838174049/
As you can see this particular project fits almost any body type and looks superb.
I love that Mary has found several unique ways to use this wrap and has enjoyed each new experiment - sadly though, her pictures do not do her justice.
Materials used : Today I’ve used about 400 gms of this really lovely Lion Baby soft
acrylic yarn, with a 4.5 mm crochet
hook.
For Indians : This yarn is a lot like our 3 – 4 ply acrylic yarn in
thickness.
Size made : From one wingtip to another ~ 67” and a width of ~ 21” at the
broadest part.
Skill level : Intermediate to advanced.
The stitches used are simple, but
there are combinations and requirements that are a little difficult.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Quick analysis of what we’re going
to do here today. We start with a
row of fsc which will be the width of our poncho. We will then work in a rectangle (of sorts)
with one side straight and the other side undulating with arrow-like points.
Below is the knitting chart for the pattern. I've used the same idea and adapted it to work in the crochet pattern.
Our
pattern therefore has two parts – one part that is made up of all dc (or fpdc)
and the second part that has the ch-1 sps.
To
make our arrow-like points, we will be decreasing one dc and ch-1 sp each
row, and at the same time, we will ensure that we have 12 ch-1 sps at the
arrow-like end at each row.
Now
as we’re decreasing the dc & ch-1 sp and ensuring we keep the number of
ch-1 sps constant, we will be adding one ch-1 sp at each row, thus reducing the
number of dc / fpdc stitches each row.
This will then give you the lovely arrow like pattern and the fpdc will give you a fantastic effect all at the same time.
Start : with fsc that is
the width of the poncho you’re making.
Turn.
We will be working just about
half of this row in dc and the other bit will be with ch-1 sps. So if you want, place a marker in the 25thfsc
from end.
Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc
and in each fsc till the last 24 fsc (or the marked fsc) ;
[ch 1, sk next fsc, hdc in the
next fsc] ;
rep [to] 11 times till end.
Turn
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14
Row 2 : sl-st in the 1st hdc
and 1st ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next hdc ;
[ch 1, hdc in the next hdc] ;
rep [to] 10 times ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, hdc in the
next dc) ;
fpdc in each dc till the last
dc ; dc in the last dc. Turn
Once again, we will be working
just about half of this row in fpdc and the other bit will be with ch-1
sps. So if you want, place a marker yet
again in the 25thst from end. Just remember that the 25th
st will include dc as well as ch-1 sps.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc
; fpdc in each dc till the last 24 sts (or the marked st) ;
[ch 1, sk next dc, hdc in the
next dc] ;
{ch 1, hdc in the next hdc} ;
rep {to} 11 times till end.
Turn
Stop and let’s see what we’re
creating here.See our two sides – the pattern coming along on the fpdc side,
and there are still 12 ch-1 sps on the other side, and as we’re moving the ch-1
sps, we’re getting a nice arrow-like pattern.
Row 4 : sl-st in the 1sthdc
and 1st ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next hdc ;
[ch 1, hdc in the next hdc] ;
rep [to] 10 times ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, hdc in the
next dc) ; fpdc in each dc till the last dc ;
dc in the last dc. Turn
Rows 5 – 8 : Rep Rows 3 & 4
On the following row, we will
add 15 ch at the end of the row, and we will extend row by these stitches – i.e
we will have a row of the same length as the first fsc row.
See what we’re doing? So once we have the same length, we will work
all these again to get the arrow-like ends once again. Neat, huh?
Row 9 : dc in the 1stdc
; fpdc in each dc till the ch-1 sp ;
(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; fpdc
in the next hdc) ;
rep (to) 7 times ;
[ch 1, hdc in the next hdc] ;
rep [to] 3 times ; ch 15. Turn
In the following row, we will
work an hdc in the 2nd ch. We
will use that 1st ch as a turning chain.
In case you are not happy with
this start, then please add 2 more ch, and then work your 1st hdc in
the 3rd ch from hk.
Row 10 : hdc in the2nd
ch from hk ;
[ch 1, sk next ch, hdc in the
next ch] ;
rep [to] 6 times ;
(ch 1, hdc in the next hdc) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
{ch 1, sk next dc, hdc in the
next dc} ; fpdc in each dc till the last dc ; dc in the last dc. Turn
Let’s stop once again and check
out what we’ve done.
So you have one little wing tip
and then this finger-like projection you’ve just made.
Now you will work on this
finger-like projection, reducing stitches on that finger-like ch-1 sp end, and
still keeping the other fpdc end constant.
That way you will be building
your second wing tip on this finger-like projection. Got it?
Once again, we will be working
just about half of this row in fpdc and the other bit will be with ch-1
sps. So if you want, place a marker yet
again in the 25thst from end. Just remember that the 25th
st will include dc as well as ch-1 sps.
Row 11 : dc in the 1stdc
; fpdc in each dc till the last 24 sts (or the marked st) ;
[ch 1, sk next dc, hdc in the
next dc] ;
{ch 1, hdc in the next hdc} ;
rep {to} 11 times till end. Turn
Stop and let’s see what we’re
creating here.See our two sides – the pattern coming along on the fpdc side,
and there are still 12 ch-1 sps on the other side, and as we’re moving the ch-1
sps, we’re getting a nice arrow-like pattern.
Row 12 : sl-st in the 1sthdc
and 1st ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next hdc ;
[ch 1, hdc in the next hdc] ;
rep [to] 10 times ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, hdc in the
next dc) ; fpdc in each dc till the last dc ; dc in the last dc. Turn
Rows 13 – 16 : Rep Rows 11 &
12
On the following row, we will
add 15 ch at the end of the row, and we will extend row by these stitches – i.e
we will have a row of the same length as the first fsc row.
See what we’re doing? So once we have the same length, we will work
all these again to get the arrow-like ends once again. Neat, huh?
Row 17 : dc in the 1stdc
; fpdc in each dc till the ch-1 sp ;
(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; fpdc
in the next hdc) ; rep (to) 7 times ;
[ch 1, hdc in the next hdc] ;
rep [to] 3 times ; ch 15. Turn
In the following row, we will
work an hdc, once again, in the 2nd ch. We will use that 1st ch as a
turning chain.
In case you are not happy with
this start, then please add 2 more ch, and then work your 1st hdc in
the 3rd ch from hk.
You have surely figured the
pattern by now.
Your repeat rows are Rows 10 –
17 with all the explanations in between.
Continue these repeats till you have a project that wraps around both your shoulders and just meets in the front centre.
We will then return to join
these two sections and create your poncho.
Now here’s a neat tweak. I quite like this wrap as it is, and you
could well keep increasing the length till its just a wrap that you will not
join around the front, but can wrap around your shoulders about 1.25
times.
The stitches that we have used
here have a really wonderful stretch.
Please ensure that you check how much you need to wrap around as it is
pretty easy to go just slightly over. I
am saying this as this is what happened with mine. I still love what I’ve created, and I find
that there are still innumerable possibilities, but I *think* I could’ve made
it a little bit less long.
So go ahead, create and have
fun.
Feast your eyes on the many ways you can drape this creation - and all the lovely models who willingly draped this on for me.
Finishing :
Once again, I have used the original knitting pattern http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lace-cotton-ponchette to join the two ends of the poncho.
Attach the shoulders and the
sides of the top together.
At the start, I told you about the length of this wrap and how our stitches make it stretchy and allow it to wrap well around the shoulders. Ensure that you check and like the fit around the shoulders before you finish it.
If you think you need to, then work a round of sc
all around the neckline, round arm and
the bottom of the top.
As we’ve started with a fdc
chain, that start row (or bottom of top) is neatly finished, but that’s up to
you.
Fasten off and weave in
ends. Give yourself a big pat on the
back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different
from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it,
I’m sure you’ll agree.
And that’s done.. yet another
project brilliantly executed !
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my earlier neckwear creations.
AND for our four legged pals.. some fancy neckwear at
Here are some of my older bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
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