Wednesday, 6 April 2016

BEAUTIFUL SHELLED & SLEEVED INFINITY COWL

 

BEAUTIFUL SHELLED & SLEEVED INFINITY COWL

After my first cowl with sleeves, I was requested for one more. For all of you who are following me, you’ll know that I do not like repeating patterns, so here’s my variation for the cowl part in this second creation.  Thanks for joining me in my creative journey.J

See the different ways to wear this creation at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKNxf3RuaBQ

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.


Materials used : Today I’ve our lovely Oswal Cashmilon acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook
I’ve decided to use two colours – one for the chest portion and one for the two sleeves.  I’ve used two hanks each of the two colours (so about 100 – 120 gms each), just fyi.

Size : 33” chest ; 23” sleeve length

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                   dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                      ch-sp : chain space
sp(s) : space(s)                                                           rep : Repeat
trc : Triple / Treble crochet                                 st(s) : Stitch(es)
yo : Yarn Over                                                           hk : Hook
 lp : Loop

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  We start with a row of fsc and then work our way side to side to make a large rectangle. Now here’s where your creativity comes in.  There are several ways you can decide to wrap this around your body – so the two sides of your wrap will be the length of your arms from shoulder(s) to wrist(s), and the centre part is what will go around your chest. 

So calculations : One and a half times your round chest plus two arm lengths.  This is the length of the rectangle we’ll make.
Width : We will work up and down the fsc we’re making which is the width of our chest piece, but if you make this part too wide, then you’re actually increasing the round arm as well – so remember this when you’re working your calculations.
In my first pattern, I just worked a plain centre but here, I’m going to use a shelled pattern.



Now here are our tweaks :
1.       I’m planning on using the shell stitch just for the center of the project and using a plainer stitch for the two arms, so I will be working three pieces in this project – One chest portion and two sleeve portions
2.      I will work the three pieces separately and then join them together.
3.      I am not going to write pattern separately for the chest and the sleeves.  I am writing the shelled pattern down, and you could make the whole project in the same pattern.
4.      If you decide to make the sleeves separately (as I have), you will follow instructions through to the end and see what I have done.
5.      Finally, I’m going to add a tightening set of rows around the end of our ‘sleeve’ ends – so you could actually work whatever width you want, as the sleeves are going to fit eventually.

So, enough talking.. hooks in hand.. and let’s go.

Our pattern repeat here is 8 + 1.
(Yes, the pattern chart reads a little differently, but as my yarn is a little thinner, I think the spacing between two shells works better with this stitch count repeat)




Start : with fsc in multiples of 8 + 1.  Turn.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; sk next 3 fsc , 9 dc in the next fsc ; 
*sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc ; sk next 3fsc, 9 dc in the next fsc* ; 
rep *to* till the last 4 fsc ; sk next 3 fsc, sc in the last fsc.  Turn.

In the following row, we’ll use a “V”-st, which is (trc ; ch 1, trc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Row 2 :  2 trc in the 1st sc ; 
*ch 4, sk next 4 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 4, sk next 4 dc, “V”-st in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 2 trc in the last sc.  Turn.

Row 3 : sc in the 1st 2 trc ; sk the next 4 dc , 9 dc in the next sc ; 
*sk the next 4 dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp ; 9 dc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* till last 2 trc ; sc in the last 2 trc.  Turn.

Row 4 :  2 trc in the 1st sc ; 
*ch 4, sk next 4 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 4, sk next 4 dc, “V”-st in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* till end ; trc in the last sc.  Turn.

And just like that we’re done with this lovely shelled pattern. 
Repeat Rows 3 & 4 till your project is 1.5 times the round chest measure. 

As I said before, if you decide to work this pattern through the whole project, then you will work this shelled pattern for 2 sleeve lengths plus 1.5 times round chest measure.


If you are working this pattern all through in shells, then once done, you will fold your completed project in half, and join the two sides from each end till the length needed for the sleeve.  The sleeves are the ends of this project and the centre of this project is the part that wraps around the chest.

Fasten off and weave in all ends and you’re done with your lovely shelled cowl with sleeves.

IF however, you’re making plain sleeves as I am, then carry on with the instructions here.
1.       As we’re working a chest portion with the shelled pattern only, then you will work 1.5 times round chest measure in repeats of Rows 3 & 4 , ending with Row 4.
2.      If changing yarn colours, then fasten off Colour 1, and attach whatever colour you intend for your sleeve here. 
3.      We’ve ended with Row 4, so work sc in the sc and ch-sps to add up to the same number of stitches as you started with.  So say you started with 41 sts, at this end, you will have your sc and ch-4 sps, so just ensure that you work a total of 41 sts in these ch-sps and sc.
Once you have your sc at this end, and your fsc at the other end, you are ready to start your sleeves.

So for this end, you have your second coloured yarn for the sleeves.  Once you’re done with this section, you will re-attach your sleeve yarn for the other side at one end of your start fsc row and repeat these sleeve instructions.

Now if you decide to use the same yarn for the whole project, believe me, you'll end up with a completely different and original project too. Go for it!


SLEEVES :



For this portion there are several options offered , so major decision time. I’ve decided to work the whole sleeve in back loops only, using dc – so dc blo all through.

I've also decided to make the sleeves long enough to cover part of the palm.. so it becomes a finger-less pair of gloves too

I am also going to work the full sleeve portion in rounds. So on your first round, join with a sl-st and you will continue to work in rounds.  You will therefore, have this flat rectangular section for the chest, and then these two ‘rounded’ /tube-like sections for the two sleeves.

Round 1 : sc in the 1stst and in each st till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : dc-blo in the 1st sc and each sc all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : dc-blo in the 1st st and each st all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rep Round 3 till you have the sleeve length you desire.

Optional : Place a marker in the sl-st if  you decide to reduce and scale the shape down a bit, as I have.

From here on I worked an dc-blo in each st all around, but did not join at the end of each row, so that we work in continuous rounds without the little join at the end. 
Now it does not really matter if you want to join with a sl-st at the end of each round – I just preferred not to.

If you do decide to work in rounds without joining, please place a marker in that 1st st as we will need that 1st st a little later in our pattern.

Note for decrease if working in a round without joining : At the end of each round one st before the marker, I have done a dc 2-tog in back-loop (just to keep the pattern) over the next 2 sts. This works if you are not joining and are working in continuous rounds. Do remember though to move your marker each round so that you will keep the decreases neatly in a row under the armhole.

Note for decrease if not working in a round and joining with sl-st at each round : At the end of each round two sts before the marker, I have done a dc 2-tog in back-loop (just to keep the pattern) over the next 2 sts. Do remember though to move your marker each round so that you will keep the decreases neatly in a row under the armhole.

Yet again, just continue till you have the shape just right for the arm you are working this project for.

Finally, I worked this repeat till I had a length about 4” shorter than needed from the shoulder to wrist.  I have decided to work the last 6” in post stitches in such a way that if needed the recipient could pull it over the palms and have fingerless gloves (of sorts).
The 2” ‘extra’ therefore will not be an issue (i.e I started this paragraph saying I would repeat till I was 4” short, and then worked 6” in post stitches, so these 2” will be part of the fingerless gloves)

So if you feel  like doing this then, work till you are about 3-4” short of the length needed from shoulder to wrist.

Next Round : dc in the 1st st and each st all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

From the following round on we will work in post stitches.

Next Round : fpdc in the 1st st ; dc in the next st ; (fpdc in the next st ; dc in the next st) ; rep (to) all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Next Round : fpdc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ; (fpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Rep the above round for the final few inches, till your sleeves are of the length you need (i.e either till wrist or till the end of your thumb - for the fingerless gloves).

Fasten off and weave in ends.  We’ve completed one side of our sleeves.

Re-attach your yarn on the other side of the shoulder bit (i.e in my case the end of the grey rectangle) for the second sleeve.
Work all the rounds of pattern for the second sleeve as well.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing :

I’m thrilled at what we’ve made here today.  This is a really oft-repeated pattern, but with a simple twist and tweak, we’ve created something different.
Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

In the Antonia wrap around shrug pattern, the designer has added a few images, which were not clear (well, not on my pc), so I thought I’d add a few myself .. just in case you need guidance on how to drape this rectangle (as I did).  I love the explanation that the Antonia wrap shrug has for the images, which is how I figured (or so I hope) how to drape this thing around oneself. 

If you have other ideas on how we can use this, do let me know.. and we’ll add to this treasure.. this absolutely lovely wrap around cowl shrug pattern.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

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