GULDASTA
WRAP
This simple stole or wrap uses only basic stitches to give
you a really beautiful and lacy end result. In my mind, I have imagined a small tulip bulb which is the main idea of this wrap.
This
wrap has can be made in three ways – you can have an asymmetric wrap (made in
red), a symmetric one (made in blue/green yarn) and read on to see what else we
can do with this project.
Guldasta
is the hindi word for a bouquet of flowers – so you’ll have a fragrant bouquet
of flowers around your neck with this project.
How cool is that, huh?
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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 100 gms of the lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 3-ply
acrylic yarn (blue/green) with a 3 mm crochet hook and about 150 gms of the
lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon (red) yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook.
General yarn info : This yarn is
not specific for this project.
You
can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any
size.
Difficulty level : Intermediate
Skill level.
Abbreviations :
sc : Single crochet yo : Yarn Over
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : hook
lp(s) : Loop(s) dc : Double crochet
sl-st : Slip Stitch
e-sc : Extended single crochet
fsc : Foundation single crochet
MC : Main Colour
CC : Contrast Colour
Stitches used :
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog (as well as through the blog) for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
Before
we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.
For our pattern, we start from one side, and gradually allow our wrap to grow with
every line.
For
the symmetric wrap, you increase till you have the width desired. This marks the centre of your wrap, and you
then start reducing it to give it a symmetric shape.
For
the asymmetric wrap, you just increase gradually till you have a wrap of a
length that goes easily around your neck.
This will mean that your lovely florets go diagonally.
You
can also try to work in two colours – to highlight the florets.
The
two coloured wrap is made such that the florets are in one colour, and the
petals and ‘grass’ (lines between the flowers) are in a second colour.
For
this wrap, your imagination and creativity add to the charm and individuality,
using ideas given below.
Start with ch 4.
Row 1 : sc in 2nd ch from hk, and next 2
ch.
Ch 3. Turn. (3 sc, ch 3)
Row 2 : sc in 2nd ch from hk, and next ch
;
sc in next 3 sc. Turn. (5 sc)
Row 3 : dc in 1st sc ;
sk
next sc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
sk
next sc, dc in last sc. Turn.
(4
dc, 1 ch-1 sp)
Double crochet 4-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog over 4 sts at
https://youtu.be/WjSNi7ithIU
Double crochet 4-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at
https://youtu.be/_B0-ye0cClU
Row 4 : dc in 1st dc ;
ch 2, dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ;
ch 2 , dc in last dc. Turn.
(2 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, 1 dc 4-tog, 3 ch)
Row 5 : sc in 1st dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp
and sc in dc 4-tog ;
sc in last dc.
Ch 3. Turn.
(7 sc, 3 ch)
Row 6 :
sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc
in next ch and each sc till end. Turn. (9 sc)
Row 7 :
sc in each sc till end.
Ch 3. Turn. (9 sc, 3 ch)
Row 8 :
sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc
in next ch and each sc till end.
Turn. (11 sc)
Row 9 : dc in 1st sc ;
sk
next sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
*sk
2 sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* once ;
sk
next sc, dc in last sc. Turn. (8 dc, 3 ch-1 sps)
Row 10 : dc in 1st dc ;
ch 2, *dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ; ch 2*;
rep *to* twice ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
(2 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 3 dc 4-tog)
Row 11 :
sc in each dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, and sc in each dc 4-tog till end. Ch 3.
Turn. (13 sc, 3 ch)
Row 12 :
sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc
in next ch and each sc till end.
Turn. (15 sc)
Row 13 :
sc in each sc till end. Ch 3. Turn. (15 sc, 3 ch)
Row 14 :
sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc
in next ch and each sc till end.
Turn. (17 sc)
Row 15 : dc in 1st sc ;
sk
next sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
*sk
2 sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* thrice ;
sk
next sc, dc in last sc. Turn. (12 dc, 5 ch-1 sps)
Row 16 : dc in 1st dc ;
ch 2, *dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ; ch 2*;
rep *to* last ch-1 sp ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
(2 dc, 6 ch-2 sps, 5 dc 4-tog)
Row 17 :
sc in each dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, and sc in each dc 4-tog till end. Ch 3.
Turn.
This is a rep of Row 11.
So here your st count
should be 6 sc more than Row 11. (i.e 19 sc, 3 ch)
Row 18 :
sc in 2nd ch from hk ; sc in next ch and each sc till end. Turn.
This is a rep of Row 12.
So here your st count
should be 6 sc more than Row 12. (i.e 21 sc)
Row 19 :
sc in each sc till end. Ch 3. Turn.
This is a rep of Row 13.
So here your st count
should be 6 sc more than Row 13. (i.e 21 sc, 3 ch)
Row 20 :
sc in 2nd ch from hk ; sc in next ch and each sc till end. Turn.
This is a rep of Row 14.
So here your st count
should be 6 sc more than Row 14. (i.e 23 sc)
Row 21 : dc in 1st sc ; sk next sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc
;
*sk
2 sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the 3rd last
sc from end
(i.e till you are in the 3rd sc from end, and have 2 sc
left till end) ;
sk next sc, dc in last sc.
Turn.
This is a rep of Row 15.
So here your st count
should be 4 dc and 2 ch-1 sps more than Row 15. (i.e 16 dc, 7 ch-1 sps)
Row 22 : dc in 1st dc ; ch 2,
*dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ; ch 2*;
rep *to* last ch-1
sp ; dc in last dc. Turn.
This is a rep of Row 16.
So here your st count
should be 4 dc 4-tog and 2 ch-1 sps more than Row 16. (i.e 2 dc, 8 ch-2 sps, 7
dc 4-tog)
Note :
At the end of each rep, you will have 2 flowers more than the previous rep row.
Row 23 : This is a
rep of Row 17, so 6 sc more than Row 17. (25 sc, 3 ch)
Row 24 : This is a
rep of Row 18 (27 sc)
Row 25 : This is a
rep of Row 19 (27 sc, 3 ch)
Row 26 : This is a rep of Row 20 (29 sc)
Row 27 : This is a
rep of Row 21 (20 dc, 9 ch-1 sps)
Row 28 : This is a
rep of Row 22 (2 dc, 10 ch-2 sps, 9 dc-4 tog)
FOR SYMMETRIC WRAP
Rep Rows 17 – 22, gradually
increasing your width till you reach your desired width, ending with Row
22.
I stopped increases after making 25 flowers, on reaching a
length of 22” and a width of 18”
Decrease section
For convenience, I am going to
renumber rows for decrease.
So when you think you have
sufficient length / width, you start decreases using these ideas.
Single crochet 2-together : sc 2-tog :
Insert hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete. Visit this video tutorial at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whlsMemDHLc
Row 1 : sc in 1st dc, 2 sc in each ch-2
sp,
and sc in each dc 4-tog till the
ch-2 sp before the last dc 4-tog ;
sc in the 1st ch-sp ; sc
2-tog in the next ch-sp and the top of dc 4-tog. Turn.
Row 2 :
sc in each sc till end. Turn. (no decrease)
Row 3 : sc in each
sc till last 4 sc before end ;
sc 2-tog in next 2 sc, sk last 2
sc. Turn.
Row 4 :
sc in each sc till end. Turn. (no decrease)
Row 5 : dc in 1st sc ;
sk
next sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
*sk
2 sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* till the 3rd last sc from end
(i.e
till you are in the 3rd sc from end, and have 2 sc left till end) ;
sk
sc, dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 6 : dc in 1st sc ;
ch 2, *dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ; ch 2*;
rep *to* till last ch-1 sp ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Rep Decrease Rows 1 – 6 (reducing 2
flowers with every rep) till you have 1 flower left.
Next row : sc in the 1st
dc, sc in next ch-2 sp, sc 2-tog in next ch and top of dc 4-tog. Turn.
Last row : sc in each
sc till end. (3 sc)
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
FOR ASSYMETRIC WRAP
Rep Rows 17 – 22, gradually
increasing your width and length till you have 42 flowers or the size of wrap
you desire that goes neatly around your neck, ending with Row 22.
For the asymmetric wrap, the side you’ve made your increases
will go against your neck, so the pointed part of the triangle hangs in front
of your neck, and the flowers then go diagonally across the shoulders and
chest.
Next row : sc in each
dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, and sc in each dc 4-tog till end. Turn.
Row 2 :
sc in each sc till end. Turn.
IDEAS FOR THE TWO-TONED
WRAP
I have not had the time to make
this, but it is on my list of things to do.
Read what I’ve said about this wrap (for color changes) at the top of
this blog
Do share your creations with me and
give me that push to get mine going too ;)
Cheers
General Instructions
1.
MC : is the Flower colour and CC is the Leaf colour
2. Every time
you change colours, make the change in the last yo and pull through, so that
the colour you need is on your hk, and the other colour is just one st away
3. Every row
ensure that your un-used colour has come up to the row, by once again changing
colours in the last yo and pull through, so that the un-used colour is at the
end, and the colour you need (and are using) is also just one st away
How to change colors seamlessly : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to change from the Main color to the Contrast or second color of yarn seamlessly. View it at
https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to carry your yarn along when working with two colours.
Using CC : Start with ch 4.
Row 1 : (Using CC ) : sc in 2nd ch
from hk, and next 2 ch. Ch 3. Turn.
(3 sc, ch 3)
Row 2 : (Using CC ) : sc in 2nd ch
from hk, and next ch ; sc in next 3 sc.
Turn. (5 sc)
Row 3 :
(Using CC ) : dc in 1st sc ;
sk
next sc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
sk
next sc, dc in last sc. Turn. (4 dc, 1 ch-1 sp). Attach MC.
Row 4 : (Using
MC, taking CC along ) : dc in 1st sc ;
ch 2, dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ;
ch 2 , dc in last dc. Turn. (2 dc, 2 ch-2 sps, 1 dc 4-tog, 3 ch)
Row 5 : (Using CC) : sc in 1st dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp
and sc in dc 4-tog ;
sc in last dc. Ch 3. Turn.
(7 sc, 3 ch)
Row 6 :
(Using CC) : sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc
in next ch and each sc till end.
Turn. (9 sc)
Row 7 :
(Using CC) : sc in each sc till end.
Ch 3. Turn. (9 sc, 3 ch)
Row 8 :
(Using CC) : sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc
in next ch and each sc till end.
Turn. (11 sc)
Row 9 :
(Using CC , taking MC along with you ) : dc in 1st
sc ;
sk
next sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
*sk
2 sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc* ;
rep *to* once ;
sk next sc, dc in last
dc. Turn. (8 dc, 3 ch-1 sps)
Row 10 : (Using MC,
taking CC along with you) : dc in 1st sc ;
ch 2, *dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ; ch 2*;
rep *to* twice ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
(2 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 3 dc 4-tog)
Row 11 :
(Using CC) : sc in each dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, and sc in each dc 4-tog till
end. Ch 3. Turn. (13 sc, 3 ch)
Row 12 :
(Using CC) : sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc
in next ch and each sc till end. Turn. (15 sc)
Row 13 :
(Using CC) : sc in each sc till end. Ch
3. Turn. (15 sc, 3 ch)
Row 14 :
(Using CC) : sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc
in next ch and each sc till end.
Turn. (17 sc)
Row 15 :
(Using CC , taking MC along with you ) : dc in 1st
sc ;
sk
next sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
*sk
2 sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* thrice ;
sk
next sc, dc in last dc. Turn. (12 dc, 5 ch-1 sps)
Row 16 : (Using MC,
taking CC along with you) : dc in 1st sc ;
ch 2, *dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ; ch 2*;
rep *to* last ch-1 sp ; dc in last
dc. Turn.
(2 dc, 6 ch-2 sps, 5 dc 4-tog)
Row 17 :
(Using CC) : sc in each dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp,
and
sc in each dc 4-tog till end. Ch 3. Turn.
This is a rep of Row 11.
So here your st count should
be 6 sc more than Row 11. (i.e 19 sc, 3 ch)
Row 18 :
(Using CC) : sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc
in next ch and each sc till end.
Turn.
This is a rep of Row 12.
So here your st count
should be 6 sc more than Row 12. (i.e 21 sc)
Row 19 : (Using CC) : sc in each sc till end. Ch 3.
Turn.
This is a rep of Row 13.
So here your st count
should be 6 sc more than Row 13. (i.e 21 sc, 3 ch)
Row 20 :
(Using CC) : sc in 2nd ch from hk ;
sc
in next ch and each sc till end.
Turn.
This is a rep of Row 14.
So here your st count
should be 6 sc more than Row 14. (i.e 23 sc)
Row 21 :
(Using CC , taking MC along with you ) : dc in 1st
sc ;
sk
next sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
*sk
2 sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* till the 3rd last sc from end
(i.e
till you are in the 3rd sc from end, and have 2 sc left till end) ;
sk
next sc, dc in last dc. Turn.
This is a rep of Row 15.
So here your st count
should be 4 dc and 2 ch-1 sps more than Row 15. (i.e 16 dc, 7 ch-1 sps)
Row 22 : (Using MC,
taking CC along with you) : dc in 1st sc ;
ch 2, *dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ; ch 2*;
rep *to* last ch-1 sp ; dc in last
dc. Turn.
This is a rep of Row 16.
So here your st count
should be 4 dc 4-tog and 2 ch-1 sps more than Row 16. (i.e 2 dc, 8 ch-2 sps, 7
dc 4-tog)
Row 23 : (Using CC)
: This is a rep of Row 17, so 6 sc more than Row 17. (25 sc, 3 ch)
Row 24 : (Using CC) :
This is a rep of Row 18 (27 sc)
Row 25 : (Using CC) :
This is a rep of Row 19 (27 sc, 3 ch)
Row 26 : (Using CC) : This is a rep of Row 20
(29 sc)
Row 27 : (Using CC
, taking MC along with you ) : This is a rep of Row 21 (20 dc, 9 ch-1 sps)
Row 28 : (Using MC,
taking CC along with you) : This is a rep of Row 22 (2 dc, 10 ch-2 sps, 9 dc-4
tog)
FOR SYMMETRIC WRAP
Rep Rows 17 – 22, gradually
increasing your width till you reach your desired width, ending with Row
22. The designer stopped increases after
making 31 flowers, on reaching a width of just under 25”
Decrease section
Row 1 : sc in each dc, 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, and sc
in each dc 4-tog till the last dc 4-tog before end, 1 sc in last ch-2 sp, sk
last dc. Turn. (2 sts decreased)
Row 2 :
sc in each sc till end. Turn. (no decrease)
Row 3 :
sc in each sc till last 2 sc before end, sk last 2 sc. Turn. (2 sts decreased)
Row 4 :
sc in each sc till end. Turn. (no decrease)
Row 5 : dc in 1st sc ;
sk
next sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc ;
*sk
2 sc , (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* till the 3rd last sc from end
(i.e
till you are in the 3rd sc from end, and have 2 sc left till end) ;
sk
next sc, dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 6 : dc in 1st sc ; ch 2,
*dc 4-tog in ch-1 sp ; ch 2*;
rep *to* till last ch-1 sp ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Rep Decrease Rows 1 – 6 reducing 4
sts every rep till you have 1 flower.
Next row : sc in each
st till end. Turn.
Last row : sc in each
sc till end.
FOR ASSYMETRIC WRAP
Rep Rows 17 – 22, gradually
increasing your width and length till you have 42 flowers or the size of wrap
you desire that goes neatly around your neck. For the asymmetric wrap, the side
you’ve made your increases will go against your neck, so the pointed part of
the triangle hangs in front of your neck, and the flowers then go diagonally
across the shoulders and chest.
Have
fun and do remember to share my blog post when you show off your creation.
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.
I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.
Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my earlier neckwear creations.
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
and some boleros / jacket / vests ...
and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..
and a doll’s top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
.. and some neckwear
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf
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